Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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3 hours ago, Bweryarryo said:
Thanks guys,wasjunk, can you tell me where to look for the flaming river one?
This should give you everything you need to know. You can click through the different styles to see there complete line and there are a ton.
https://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0002
Once you have found what you want, you can shop model and price to see if there is a better option. There are also a number of others that build/offer columns, Google is your friend here.
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A lot of nice straight reflections off the paint, Thumbs up!!!!!
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I'm still not convinced that an aftermarket one wouldn't be a good choice. While not OEM there's about 12 people in the world that could see the difference and it would have all new parts not ones over 50 YO. It should be pretty easy to connect as the Avanti's have a rag joint and the wiring terminates in a Chevy connector that could be adapted to about any harness.
They are available in billet or plain metal and some don't have the key in the column also.
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Here's the 83 Fantomworks did. http://fantomworks.com/project/1983-studebaker-avanti-2/ You can see the Avanti with the bumpers gone.
IIWM, I'd take Gary's suggestion and start with an 83 or older. The front panels are complete around the grill and lower front fenders whereas the 84 and up are missing a lot of fiberglass where the bumpers are located.
I like where you are going so keep posting. I'm 77 retired and have been moding cars for years. The biggest problem you will face is getting discouraged. I have seen many projects started and then left festering as the work piles up. Be sure you are self-starting enough because there will be times there's very little light in the tunnel.
I don't know your abilities so be sure you are calculating the real costs particularly paint and new interior. I can weld, fabricate and paint (amateur at best) but it keeps my costs inline.
With all that said, Avanti and ask away. We're here to help and admire.
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13 hours ago, studegary said:
Are you referring to a correct Studebaker Avanti radio or one of the Custom Autosound radios that your link takes me to? I now see that you list a 1989 Avanti. If that is the car in question, the dash has nothing to do with a Studebaker.
Agree with Gary. You can probably use a single DIN modern radio in your opening. Check with a decent audio like Crutchfield for dimensions. If they fit, the good news is you can have about any modern convenience that's offered in modern radios currently.
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4 hours ago, 1963r2 said:
You can buy them, they are called saddles from memory.
I think I bought a set from SI years ago.
Looks like they are $82.50US ea
pb
Good call, from the SI catalog
800917/18 https://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort
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If you have a source of a decent one I don't know why not try it but IIWM, I'd opt for a new one with all new parts like one of these. You will probably need to add an extension to the gear end but that should be straight forward with today's options. Old tilt options are not cheap usually when you find a good one. The rag joint would make a natural place to join it.
I search around this site to see what's available. Note it uses the GM style wiring connector so it should be able to be wired into the early system pretty easily.
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1-small
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OOPS!!!
I forgot to post the Youtube video of the Avanti power window installation I studied before I installed mine.
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Here's my install of the Nu Relics setup on my 74 that came with manual windows. There are a few mods that need to be made for a successful installation.
Be sure to scroll down the post to be Brad Bez's suggestion on bracing the motor.
It's pretty straight forward and they work well.
I'm not sure why the youtube video is jerky because the window moves smoothly both up and down. It's not the first time I've seen this on a youtube video however.
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Again as noted, they bolt to thick metal plates imbedded in the fiberglass hood structure. Pretty straight forward repair once the hood is off. I doubt the hinges need replacement as You'll probably see they move easily when they're off, a pretty basic hinge joint.
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17 hours ago, Stuart Suede said:
Thanks - this is most helpful. My Carter rotary fuel pump is on order
BTW, one last answer I forgot, look for a Ford roll-over switch to turn off the power in case of an accident. Something like this but you can probably find them new .
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Better check on shipping costs before you pay for it at the price you are asking. You ain't making much if you pay shipping and they are in demand.
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There are less expensive ways but I prefer Carter pumps like this on I mounted n my 74. Yours would need to be mounted on the drivers side but it gives me a chance to replace the old fuel line on the tank with alcohol rated shielded fuel line and let's me install a fuel regulator to adjust fuel pressure where I want it. The important number is not the fitting size but the flow rate that the pump will handle through what it is supplied with. Bigger is better, however.
I know there are decent in-line ones but this is my choice.
IAC, if you change the pump, take the opportunity to replace the fuel line on the fuel tank with new quality fuel line if you haven't done it recently.
Realistically, there probably $150 or so in the pump, filters, lines and regulator but fuel delivery is a belt and suspenders thing with me.
And yes! you can hear it when it starts running before the engine fires. No idea afterwards.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4070
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As Ed and Gunslinger said, here's how I fitted a newer mini spare.
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Let me suggest an alternative as you will need to build a mounting for the clutch master. My assumption is you are using the Avanti/Lark clutch pedal so get a Camaro master cylinder, Determine the correct ratio of the Camaro pedal arm length to total length and mount the master based on that. You can check for travel but I'll bet you'll be all right.
The pictures won't help much but here's what I did. I do have pictures if necessary that photobucket hasn't mucked up.
If you decide to go with an hydraulic throw out bearing just talk with the mfg about the master cylinder you need and go from there as above.
Just to be sure, The T-56 I chose came from the early 90's and was the LT-1series for dimensions and fitment purposes.
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Marc
I found this on T56 dimensions on-line.
32 1/2" long 25 1/2" Bellhousing flange to Trans mount
Wiring hookups include backup lights, VSS, CAGS, and
Reverse Lockout (none of the wiring hookups are necessary
for proper transmission operation)
Shifter is located on the Tailshaft 29" back from front of
bellhousing flangeI'd have a hard time measuring mine currently as it's in storage. It's in my polebarn but put away for the winter.
When I first started to think about a T5, I was told to look for the non-canted one. There was no explanation but the comment stuck with me so I passed it on. You have one so you'll know if there's an issue. I was lucky enough to buy the T56 on craigslist new from a guy building a drag car drag car that wanted to change to an auto and it wasn't selling so he gave me a good deal. It made the decision easy. I did need a special flywheel to bolt it to my 74 engine but you won't have that problem with your setup.
If your rear end is in decent shape you might just want to try it. I believe the newer 44's (flanged axles) have a heavier axle and higher spline count as well as bigger brakes. If you have a pick a part locally the drive shafts from 70-90's Camaro's had length variations that were in the ball park to get me going. I did a custom length as the ones I found were just not close enough. You can probably find an Avanti rear end if you put out the word.
Good luck, I don't have many miles on the 74 but it's a blast to drive, brings back the "old days".
Keep asking if I can be of further assistance.
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Did a T56 in my 74 that was originally a four speed. There is no reason that you can't use a five speed although the 6 speed put the shift handle in the correct location. The five speeds have several positions so you can find one close. SBC's up through the early 90's use the same bell housing configuration so you just bolt it on. A couple of words of caution, some early cranks were not drilled for the output shaft bearing - check yours. Secondly, some T5 bell housings were indexed at an angle. Find one that the shift lever is straight up, generally most were.
I'd chose an hydraulic throwout bearing for this setup, however I used the standard T56 hydraulic on mine as the 6-speed setup is pretty easy to install once a housing is built. The T5 is entirely different.
I've got a ton of pictures and forum posts both here and on the SDC website about what I did.
Muck around in Bob's site and I think you'll most/all of what you need. We still need to use this resource more.
https://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechdec2017p1g.html
As an aside - modifying the rear mount is trivial and also change to urethane mounts when you convert and after you've driven it for a while you might want to change the rear gears and add a posi if you don't have one now. I won't drive a manual in these cars without a posi. No fun and I'm 77 yo. sweetolbob on the other site FYI
Let me know what you need and I'll try to point you to where the data exists. It's available.
Underside
Topside
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As Gunslinger said above, one solution is to replace the cable but that requires removal as the replacements I know of are a complete assembly. It's still the best solution and not difficult once you remove the rear seat.
If the cable is like mine, just a steel coil outer housing with the cable inside, you could try using a penetrating oil on the coils while holding it with a rag to catch the runoff. The problem is that it's usually corrosion from moisture that is causing the issue and once rust has roughened the surface lube helps but doesn't cure. If they are also like mine the cable can't be pulled out of the cover anyway.
Realistically, it's not much more work to replace the cable than lube it as you need to access the entire length anyway.
Also be sure the release is not the problem before you do the rest of the fix.
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3 hours ago, Puffdaddy#1 said:
Seriously, what the heck is really on there,can a man go in and buy these things or does he have to hassel around and have them relined?
Had somebody got this mail down yet?
I'm going to post the complete listings from Bob Johnstones site that will include the rear brake pads for a 73 Avanti. It seems neither forum can seem to remember that Bob has compiled a tremendous resource that hardly ever seems to be used.
PD, if you scroll through the Avanti section you will find a listing under 73 Avanti that says rear brakes. I'll add it here and welcome. https://www.studebaker-info.org/Avanti/Avtext3/73avrearbrakes.txt
Bob's site
https://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechdec2017p1g.html#dunlopreb
Bob
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Frame is suspect is being kind. Hopefully, it's just the bottom plate but I suspect the hat will need some repair in a couple areas. Hog troughs and rear cross member look quite good compared to the frame probably suggests replacement at sometime.
The rest of the car looks pretty good. Interested in what will sell for, if at all.
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23 hours ago, NHcamper said:
I’ve always been a diamond in the rough kind of guy, if it runs and drives I’m a sucker. You should see my 66 Impala convertible had it five plus years put about 10,000 miles on it, cosmetically not a gem but looks like it should be in a junk yard somewhere, my wife did not ride in it the first four years I owned it lol. My point is if it’s in your price range and you like it why not. Life is short you might as well enjoy it. Lol
Depending on the buyer, Yup! good buy. It's strengths are the engine/trans upgrade and solid troughs as long as they are in good shape as stated. The first thing I want to know is how does the interior small. If moldy, it takes a fair bit to remediate it, ask me how I know.
It will need a full paint job and a lot of interior work so if you are going to hire that out runaway, runaway fast. I'm pretty sure it's had at least one repaint and that would suggest a complete strip and repaint will be required.
If the buyer can do it all himself and not charge himself for his time, it could be a nice driver for under $10K including the purchase price. My 74 was a bit worse and I'll bet I've got under $10K in total money in it but if I paid myself $20/hr for what I did, it would probably be a $50K car.
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I guess English is still my first language and I can still read it with a bit of comprehension so no where in the question does it specify sides only.
IAC, Merry Christmas
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A 400CI engine will have ......?..... core plugs in total.
The question is not how many can I see but how many in total. Still 6 or 8.
If it's how many can you see It will vary between 3 and 6 because the one is obscured by the starter and the other mechanicals so you might get a glimpse of the drivers rear but generally not so much. The correct answer to the question you didn't ask is either 4 or 6 core plugs. #1 or #2 in the first post.
Front Emblem
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
It's going to be hard to get the emblem taped on without either seeing the tape and/or having it weakly affixed because of the small amount of tape used.
What's wrong with leaving it off? I like the cleaner look of them removed from both of mine.