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Everything posted by Mel

  1. Mel


    You might check with All American Carburetors, Inc. in FL. 904-215-6790. They had about a 12 week backlog when I sent mine. Good luck.
  2. As you know, the gas tank on these cars sits on a ledge behind the back seat and, if the carb float valve sticks open, gas will flow into the carb, engine, out on the pavement, etc., unchecked. From what you describe, it sounds like this was not your problem but, as have others, I put a check valve (electric solenoid) under the car at the tank outlet and wired it (through a concealed barrel switch) into the ignition switch. If the barrel switch is off and the car is stolen and hotwire started, it will not be driven far. See Avanti Magazine, issue #170, pg. 48 for specifics. Good luck!
  3. Bad grounds can cause all kinds of weird problems. Bottom line, the more grounds (everywhere) the better. Good luck.
  4. The temperature sender on the block is basically a heat sensitive resistor which, as the temperature rises, decreases in value and sends higher voltage to the gauge which is essentially a voltmeter measuring up to 12v. On a very hot engine, the resistance value drops to 0 ohms allowing full voltage to the gauge which then reads (pegged) hot. I'd start by replacing the temperature sender, hooking things back up and going from there. Good luck.
  5. I'd use this opportunity to have the heater core pressure checked and repaired as needed. Good luck.
  6. The vent flaps were made of fiberboard, or something like it, and disintegrate with time. Mine were in very bad shape when I bought the car; you may have the same problem. You will have a lot of heat coming in the cowling if you don't have the seal at the back of the hood and your vent flaps are not closing or are in very bad shape. (If you have access to the AOAI magazine, issue #170, page 49, I wrote up in fair detail what I did to fix the flaps; Reader's Digest version follows.) To repair a flap (I'll speak singularly) remove the cover and disengage the cable. Push down on the bottom where the pivot rod enters the 'mount' and push up on the pivot rod itself, then pull the bottom of the pivot rod toward you; this removes the flap valve. I made a template from paperboard and then cut the final flap from thick gauge aluminum. Attached the flap to the pivot rod with pop rivets. Reverse to reinstall. Having the front seats out is a must. If yours acts like the vents are not opening or closing, the screws which hold the cables in place under the control panel may be lose letting the cables slide back and forth with the action of the levers. Good luck.
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