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Everything posted by Mel

  1. Anyone know where I can get the brake booster valve for my 66. The booster has the keyed hole and the valve twists and locks into place. Studebaker International sent the wrong one and I was told that was the only type they had.
  2. Update on my note above. I'd replaced the booster and master cylinder and thought I had everything adjusted properly but, apparently not. The braking had a very hard pedal and acted as if the booster wasn't working at all. I performed the check on the booster as referenced in my note above; it was working properly. I placed washers between the booster and m/c for spacers and everything worked properly -- i.e., the rod was adjusted a bit long. Interestingly, the pads were not dragging. Hope this helps.
  3. There is a You Tube video on checking the operation of the booster -- "BRAKE BOOSTER PERFORMANCE CHECK". He isolates the booster from the system, he actually holds it in his hands at the side of the car, and runs it through the checks. If the brakes are dragging, you may have the adjustment rod in the end of the booster a bit tight up against the m/c piston which will keep pressure on the piston and, hence, pressure on the pads. Good luck.
  4. I agree with Gary above; NEVER cut coil springs. As I understand it, if you cut a coil spring you'll end up with a higher spring constant -- i.e., a firmer ride. Here I'm guessing but if you cut springs, you might not have enough adjustment tolerance for proper alignment, particularly the camber. You could get some rake by lifting the back end a bit. Eaton makes springs from original spec's and I replaced my back ones, heavy duty version which added another leaf to the mix, which gave the car quite a bit of rake; I actually put some lowering blocks in place to bring it down a bit.
  5. While replacing my sending unit, I also put some sound deadening material under the seat and behind the back lean. Really seemed to help.
  6. I had new rear leaf springs put on mine which put it up a bit high. I then put on 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks under the back end which brought it down to a nice height.
  7. Mel

    700r4 surprise

    Dan Booth addresses this on page 40 in issue 191, Summer/Fall 2020. Further, he has the parts for the conversion.
  8. Mine didn't appear warped or in bad shape when it went to the restoration shop but look what was uncovered.
  9. On some cars of that era, the headlight switch was pulled outward to turn the lights on and the knob was turned to the left and right to brighten and dim the instrument lights; turning it fully to the left, after a perceived stop in the rotation, turned the dome light(s) on. Hope this helps.
  10. I purchased mine from Eaton Springs. They make them upon order from original spec. sheets. When I called the company, the guy asked if I wanted heavy duty springs; these have one more leaf. I told him OK but it did put the backend of the car up a bit high. I then used 1 1/2 inch lowering blocks to bring it down to a nice height.
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