brad
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Posts posted by brad
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Uneven ball size. (of the drive unit for all you gutter thinking people)
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Baaaaahahaha
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Even if the drain holes were all plugged up the level of the vent opening is about 6" above the drain hole level, so that would take lots of water to fill up . It is also the hog troughs that the cowl drains into, and the top level of that (under the seat) is much lower than the cowl side vents, so truthfully, it is not possible to fill up the insides through the cowl. It would HAVE TO BE the door seals leaking, most likely the "A" pillar seals down in the corner.
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13 hours ago, studequest said:
What year is this avanti
That box on the supercharger looks custom
Does this car have Air conditioning
What did you do about a return line.. How do you get it up to the gas tank behind the seat?
I see your fuel pump is on the frame- how many PSI and L/Hr?
The pump is included in the kit. It puts out 60psi IIRC. The Sniper system includes programable parameters for anything you'll likely to encounter. It will control the timing if you use an electronic distributor with the vacuum, and mechanical timing locked out. I use one of Dave Thiebaults Pertronix distributors. A vacuum advance lock out for small hei GM distributors replaces the canister, and the for the mechanical advance, I removed the top and shaft, and clocked it 180 so the "pin in the slot" now goes into a hole drilled directly opposite. Then I used an MSD phasable rotor. That allows 20 degrees of rotation to phase the rotor directly in line with the #1 plug tower of the cap, when the timing is firing . All the timing is then handled by the computer. Which then goes to the coil, or ignition box. I use an MSD 6AL in this case. All the instructions are on line in videos, on Youtube by Holley.
Yes, the car is setup with AC. a necessity around here in the summer.
I eliminated the electric fan controller, and used the sniper to control the fans. All programable from the hand held included controller.. You will need to add the temperature sensor, and an O2 sensor (which is included in the kit).
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I have done the fuel injection, with a Holley Sniper system. It's pretty much plug and play. Includes the fuel pump. lines, and fittings, and both a pre-filter, and a filter after the pump. Also they make a progressive link so the secondaries open a little later. I haven't needed that with the supercharged engine, but a R1 might.
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I just replaced those cooling hoses on a 69 Avanti with AC. The original lacquered cloth hoses were totally rotted away. I use Washing machine drain hose, and the rubber end on it fits the factory fittings perfectly.
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I'm doing just that. Took a Pertronix from Dave Thiebault, and eliminated ALL advance, both vacuum, and mechanical locked out. Then got a phasable rotor from MSD, and set the initial advance of the dizzy to 15deg. Then center the rotor on the #1 tower. Hooked the distributor pickup to the Holley Sniper Electronic Fuel Injection, and that triggers the MSD 6Al ignition box. Timing is completely now programable and even boost retard if desired, and also nitrous oxide if so inclined.
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I reinforce the opening that you put the regulator in the door. The stock door flexes from the regulator pivot down to that opening, and eventually cracks. I make up a steel strap, and rivet it both inside, and outside the opening on the perimeter lip. It stops flexing before it gets a chance to crack. If it is already cracked, then repair that first. (Not in the inside) you don't have room inside the door to reinforce the pivot area without it binding, or hitting the glass as it goes up and down. I like to use the later regulator motors that use the Jeep motors, and gear drive, and use Nu-Relics T-bird type switches and wiring. Much, much better than stock, and look identical. Half of the wiring crap to fit through the doors too.
https://www.nu-relics.com/product-p/217.htm
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It's currently for sale.
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I ran the R3 engine in the car I did in Georgia, with a comp cams 279degree .511 lift cam, and it was quite mild feeling . I never tried the more radicle 288. One must remember the larger displacement the engine the more duration cams have less effect on the idle . Huge engines can take more duration without being lumpy and not driveabe. As a side note that R3 engine made 405 hp.
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- Jeep Cherokee.
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rain gutters? -
All factory R3s (Avanti) are shimmed higher to clear the pressure box. That makes it necessary to slot the holes where the bumper brackets go through the body in the lower grille area.
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I usually give photo credit if someone else took the pics. I was also at that photo shoot, and it's off my cell phone. It's not as good as yours Lew.
The question I have is what Gray is on the prototypes? Is it the same as the much later Avanti Gray?.
Ed, the white Avanti had been touched up several times before I did some small areas for touchup. The front did not match the back, and it took a lot of tinting and blending to make it good. Since lacquer isn't available at your neighborhood paint shops ANYWHERE, I used a few drops of fingernail lacquer to tint.
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Someone....(Lew 🤫) told me it was supposed to be gold. I now know that's incorrect. Good. It's been through the proverbial knothole backwards. But will be most interesting to bring back to as made condition. I have some Lacquer left over from the last one made (5643).
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That is not a Powershift transmission. The tag should read AS2-10A. The shift pattern of that would be P N D L R. No second gear holding. Also if the car locks up in low it is usually because the rear sprag (one way roller clutch) ,that is located in the center carrier, has been installed backwards. The brass drag strips should face the rear of the car as installed.
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No, that sounds like the one being restored in the northwest. This was purchased also in Chicago last year, and the body has never been modified, and has round headlights. It is the gold one at the board of directors unveiling, and the air lift car.
It's too hot to go out to the shop and check, but I believe the car here is 5652. not 5653.
You really need to get John Hulls book to get this correct. I'm working on getting you a copy.
P.S. I did brave the heat, it is indeed 63R EX 5652
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Everything about the car I have is early, and not many changes to later equipment. It has the "winged" console levers, and fawn background. The only deviation I see is drip rails. Supercharger is black. Air bonnet has no screen. All hand laid strips of fiberglass for the floors. Silkscreened non embossed supercharger side emblems, Midland-Ross frame tag. Early pedestal sway bar mounts. Eye bolt rear shock bottoms. Single screw under door handle inserts that have NO screw holes. Baffle under hood to hide the wiring is mounted flush to the hood opening lip that the weather seal rests on. That's all I have observed, as I haven't torn it down and it is off in the future for tear down and documentation, and restoration.
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Supposed to be gold with red interior. Came to me white under the hood, and orange interior. I haven't started on it. It's in the Que sometime down the line.
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No clue, but it sure sounds pretty!
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All the EX cars are documented on John Hulls book that was in Tacoma.
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I'll say false too. When they changed the water pump pulley for the AC kicker kit, they made the new pulley in aluminum. I would guess all the low production non stock items were also the same.
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All the reproduction hoses from vendors are new and are fine. It's NOS rubber that is questionable if it hasn't been stored out of the heat and humidity.
He-Man Avanti?
in Avanti Trivia
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#1