brad
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Posts posted by brad
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There were multiple layers of mylar washers, brass washers, and a spring, and a larger brass retainer.
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3 gallons of paint. and same for thinner. For a complete inside and out refinish.
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I bought some from TCP Global, and had a very hard time getting it to lay down and shine. The old Lucite was far better. Although this did buff out, it should have been better to start with. If you order from them....get a lot extra, and really lay it on, because you will be cutting most of it off. I think most of the problems can be traced back to the thinner which is reformulated for lower VOC.
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One "EX" engine in a car I know....is an R3.
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I always pull the valve covers, and hit the valves with a rawhide mallet. If there are any stuck valves you can bend the push rods, and /or possibly break the cam. An added benefit is you can then adjust the valve lash before attempting to start it. On any street driven engine, a vacuum advance makes the car more driveable, and economical. I have run MSD on many builds, and it is a good ignition. You can use the points to trigger it, or a magnetic hall effect switch like Chrysler, or Pertronix uses. This one was supercharged, dual 4bbls, and airconditioned. It can be done, and all fit under the hood too.
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The first carb shown is the front carb of the R4 setup. Notice the lack of idle screws. There was no idle circuit. The rear carburetor had them. When mounted, the primaries of the rear carb was located closest to the center of the manifold. The second Carburetor pictured is an R2 carb. The blue plastic brake bleeder fitting is not stock. It would be brass. and is the vacuum port for the distributor vacuum advance. A true R3 or R4 does not have a vacuum advance on the distributor.
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Dyno operator said it made visual of blow by easier, in case of sudden blow by, he could shut it down quicker. Of course it was not needed to do so.
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Towards the passenger side.
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Edelbrock floats are smaller than the stock Studebaker floats, and don't have a problem with collapsing under boost.
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False. That bracket is often hard to come by, and usually rusted
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True. Large, and small print.
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Great non-existing emblem you have there. 😄
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Actually, they used partial shielding even in the Larks. Basically because they were built @ Paxton mainly for Avantis, and all were built to a standard. No R3 or R4 were built at the Studebaker factory.
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Studes used cork, which don't hold up to crappy alcohol fuel.
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They can go flying off, and that can get expensive. I always drill and tap for a set screw
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Still belongs to the Loewy family. His son-in-law still owns it. It drives very nicely last time I drove it.
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I'll write something up.
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Yes, it has to be used. The weight of the transmission, and the mounts supporting it are on the bellhousing. If you remove it the engine will swing down and hit the firewall and break the distributor and the front will hit the steering and dent the oil pan without supporting it. You can't remove the bellhousing without supporting the engine. You can't support the weight of the engine from below with a stand on the oil pan or it WILL dent. It won't support the weight.
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I have made retrofit cooling kits from hardware store plumbing supplies. Even on 63 Avantis with AC.
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https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/engine-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
I have done it and used this to support the engine. place the ends of the support on the lip just inside the fender line at the back of the engine, and support the engine by the back two intake manifold bolts. Then you can remove the transmission, and cross member and undo the exhaust and remove the bellhousing.
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The only other thing I can think of is the oil pan timing cover filler.
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Alternator housing?
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It was over 1100 actual dynamometer results. and he added more boost after that.
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4.
I purchased some of the parts for an engine I'm currently building.
Avanti R5465!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
This one?