brad
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Posts posted by brad
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I was thinking of the Eldorado, You got it!
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Are we sure he wasn't complaining about taxes?
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What other car besides the Firebird/Camaro was initially considered for the AVX platform?
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If the tips are "slotted" where they slip over the pipes, (not stock) then you will get fumes. Some silver or grey silicone over the slots might be a fix.
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Does it shift that way, or is it just printed that way on the quadrant?
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True
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Do you mean the bag bracket that overlaps the number plate? I wouldn't exactly call that wear, but rather factory made.
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The Monte Carlo had to be shortened for regular Avanti's so I'd guess that the LSC used a stock Monte frame.
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From the washer bag being refilled right next to it.
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Rear windows only roll up and down on convertibles.
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The design of the impeller. The turbulence on the tips keeps them from producing any more boost beyond a certain RPM.
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You have to take the front vent panel off first. There should be four screws one at each corner. The bottom two may be shared by the lower console plate, or even hidden under them. Once that is off, the stainless trim on the side of the console can be accessed from inside the side pieces. They should be 3/8" nuts. One near the top, and one near the angle joiner piece. Once that is off, then feel through the carpet and there will be about 5 phillips screws around the perimeter . Once the side panels are off, the whole evaporator needs to be removed. Many people make this easier by slicing the verticle leg of the right console upright so it can be removed. Then there are the electrical connections, and also there are of course the brackets to the dash cross brace. There should be angle brackets on the evaporator case that also have some screws into the floor under the unit. Don't forget the hose drain tube. (remove it) then you can pull the unit to the passenger side foot well. You can further access the evaporator case, and motor from there.
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The power to the radio has a couple of connections along the way to the radio. Either of which may be unplugged.
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2, master-vac.
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I'd say 6. Two window stops, two vertical division seals, and two vent seals.
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I solder a brass pin through the floats to prevent collapsing.
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Sure, I have made a few sealed carburetor from non-sealed ones. There won't be the milled air passage to balance throttle shaft sealing. But that is only important if there is lots of wear. I always brass bush the shafts anyways. The vents can be drilled and tapped for set screws easily, and it has no adverse effects.The accelerator pump seal can be used from an Edelbrock marine carburetor. The idle screws can be partially drilled to fit an "O" ring , and a washer under the spring to compress it.
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Good luck with that. Last R2 carb I have seen for sale went for over a grand.
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I did mention a point where I would start.... It doesn't matter what compressor you are running. The point is to compress the refrigerant so it expands through an orfice, and becomes cooler. You know how much by reading gauges. It wasn't invented by people guessing, and should not be serviced by guessing.
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The bi-metal hot idle compensator valve often gets bent, and remains open. If you look at it out of the carburetor, it should have an offset bend so the valve is closed when cold. If it is flattened, it will open too soon and will act like a vacuum leak. It's purpose is only to function when the carb is so hot that it puts off enough fumes to prevent an over rich mixture. Gas fumes do cause the mixture to change.
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The script for the metal cars is different from the Avanti. The originals came out in 1956 and had rectangular mounting pins, and special barrel nuts that no other company supplied. Avant scripts have round mounting pins. I have seen flat spring steel push nuts on the pins, and also some with acorn tinerman nuts.
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The studes that used the York compressor took 3 lbs. I would guess about 1 lb 10oz would be a good starting point, and then check your pressures.
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Thank goodness they are smart enough to not get into the parts business. They 're a non-profit organization, and it would be foolish to do otherwise.
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The top jamb nut and screw have NO correlation to throttle pressure. That is crazy controlled by the overall length of the pressure rod to the transmission lever. That is adjusted by a threaded clevis from under the car. The lever should connect inboard of where the foot linkage hooks up to the main linkage. The correct way to adjust it is to remove a pressure port plug on the transmission, and put a gauge to read the pressure. It should be 75 lbs at fast idle in gear. Adjust the length of the rod until it is in spec. Nothing else is correct, and it is just guessing.
EXAUST SMELL INSIDE
in 1963-64 Avanti
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But if the slots are not covered by the tip being slid over the slots, then the fumes will leave the slots, into the car.