brad
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Posts posted by brad
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Nope Every engine with a fan can be vicious. Watch your fingers!
Perhaps he means viscous???
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I would say it would help slip the brake booster pedal rod through the firewall boot.
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It's three. the standard 5 blade fan, the hd 7 blade fan, and the cut down 14" fan as on the R3 and 4
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I used Composite housings with a LED H4 bulb replacement. Less current draw than any incandescent bulb. Just shop around, and make sure the housings are not the type that protrude further forward than stock glass bulbs. Otherwise the outer glass lenses will hit.
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It's hard to read from this picture.
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Not quite true. ALL bodies were MADE at MFG. What you are referring to is ASSEMBLY of pre-esxisting parts
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After you fix the wiring problem, change out the antique headlights to something that doesn't draw 30 amps!!! Then, you will never have to worry about putting in relays, or the switch contacts melting.
LEDs are the way to go.
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I always take words like "most" and "experts" with a grain of salt.
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It depends on the serial #. Early versions were vinyl, and carpet glued to a carboard inset about 1/2 width of the panel. The carpet, and vinyl were separated by a stainless trim piece screwed to the panel after installation. Later versions were all carpet, and also had a plastic grille screwed over the vent opening.
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The 1/4 window seals are currently in the process. Also the "A" pillar seals with the correct molded ends. Also better bumper end rubbers.
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Then what are the white with red texture grip end filters? It would be good to provide pictures, and documentation.
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Been inspected.
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The horn button
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Just because someone says they have the original molds, does NOT mean they actually utilize them. It (as always) takes someone to step up and make the parts for customers.
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Which Avanti II? his last one was Gold, not silver.
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The recommendation to pack the area with grease (for lubrication)is absolutely not true. What they ARE recommending is to pack the push rod hole with grease so the rod stays in place while installing the pump. They do not have the arm riding on the drive eccentric like some cars, but in actuality have a drive push rod. The only reason it MIGHT have a oiling problem is if non stock gaskets were used between the first mounting plate, and the block. There should be no gasket overlap between the pump body opening, where the pump actually bolts to the adapter plate. I have worked on May SBC engines, and NEVER saw ANY oiling problems ate the fuel pump. They simply do not exist.
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five...or in this case 3!?
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The water pump. Nothing will flow until the thrermostat is open. Changing to a bypass thermostat will make a small change. Changing to a large bypass opening in the water pump will make the largest change.
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I thought they went from the 400 cu. in. to the 305.
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Elaborate please.
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13 hours ago, 64studeavanti said:
Brad, have you actually measured the spark plug seats between the 2 heads? The reason I asked, is that I have several sets of 570, some of which are known to be R1, some 555 heads and some 294 heads. All have the same machining for the spark plugs.
It isn't apparent to the naked eye, it is the depth of the machining. You have to screw in a spark plug to check the difference. A "J" series plug in a regular head will have about 1 1/2 turns of thread still remaining, when fully seated. Conversely ah "H" plug in the Avanti heads will have threads sticking out of the hole.
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True, it doesn't have the idle screw extensions like the later Golden Hawk air boxes had. (and like the early ones didn't)
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Sorry, but this is one where everyone that thinks truck heads are the same are dead wrong. The spark plug seats are machined deeper for J series plugs on the Avanti, and the Truck heads still use the "H" series plug reach. The casting number may be the same, but the PART number is different!
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Staked.....#2
14" Avanti!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted
Less rotational mass (quicker revving), and less HP drag to run.