brad
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Posts posted by brad
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The Avanti I'm currently restoring is going to Stitzerland when it's finished.
I'm looking for a metric speedometer 0-280
Part # 1560407.
Any leads appreciated.
Brad
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The RPM gauge (Tachometer) consists of the sending unit under the dash, and the head unit (gauge).
Usually the gauge is fine, and the sending unit is fried. Studebaker international, and Jon Meyers have replacement circuitry for the sending unit.
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Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors are very adjustable. The secondary air valve is spring loaded, and adjustable as to when it comes into play, based on the airflow vs spring pressure. The secondary valve, also has a plastic cam which sets the rate of the lifting of the secondary metering rods. They are much like the main primary metering rods in Carter and Edelbrock carburetors, except they are mechanically linked instead of vacuum operated.
The spring is adjusted to eliminate the bog, so you don't get too much air before the engine can use it. And the cam can be changed to one that lifts the metering rods quicker, to enrich the mixture sooner.
Also, there is an area between the main casting and the lower throttle plate,(just below the primary jets),that is prone to an internal leak. There used to be a kit with aluminum plugs with o-rings that replaced the welch plugs.
These plugs look like tiny cup type freeze plugs. I just usually JB weld them and let the body set-up over night.
The main inlet for the fuel line, sometimes has a pleated paper filter that has never been replaced! Other times it is a sintered bronze filter, or a fine brass screen. Extreme care must be taken when removing the large inlet fitting, as these can strip out just by looking at them wrong. There are replacement fittings that are slightly oversize, and self tapping as a repair. The accelerator pump is often just a replacement rubber that slips over the old pump shaft after removing the old rubber. Try to find a kit that has a complete new pump.On some carbs the base of the pump is the inlet check valve.
Brad
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My vacuum pressure gauge was sluggish. What I did to cure it was to drip Teflin Tri-Flow lubricant into it and let it soak for a couple of weeks. I then repeatedly blew compressed air across the opening (not into it, but rather across it to produce the venturi effect).
Ever since it has been very responsive.
I don't see how this would make it into the mechanism of the gauge. The hole in the back just goes into the bourdon tube, which is sealed off from the rest of the gauge mechanism.
I don't doubt it worked for you, and I'm glad it did. I googled how to spell bourdan (tube) and it shows a good shot of how pressure gauges are made.
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Folks - am now getting around to addressing the inoperable Boost/Vacuum/Presure gauge on the R-3. Any experience on most likely faults? As always many thanks - Steve
Most of the time, it's just years of sitting, and dirt, and dried lube. Rarely the bourdan tube inside gets cracked, or the link connecting to the needle gets dislodged. All easy fixes. Also, check for an obstruction in the end fitting, it is a very small hole which helps dampen vacuum pulses from the engine.
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Once you get the plastic faceplate down, there is a piece of black paper under that, which needs to be removed.
You will then find two more screws holding the whole switch assembly and the padded surround.
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I don't know if the owner will show these,so I thought you might like to see a couple of my most recent restorations.
You can see the pics on my web pages and blog.
www.bez-auto-alchemy.com
I need to change the upper header contrast, but click on the links at the top of the page.
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The block will be numbered RS XXXX for R2 engines and just R XXXX for R1s. The Distributor is the same, but the advance springs and curve is different (both dual point) The R2 intake has balance slots in the plenum (or is it the other way around)? either will fit and function. Cam, pistons...everything else in short block is the same.
Heads were different to lower compression on the R2 for use with the supercharger, and are the very same as truck heads. No special porting or manifolds and are not any different than any post 55 Stude.
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The controll valve can be resealed without removing the assembly fron the car.
Follow shop manual procedures for dissasembly up to the point of the spool valve seals and you should get an idea of needed steps for job.
Take off cover (2 slotted screws)
Remove 1/2" nut, spacer and spring.
Remove the front cap screws (bolts) leave hoses attached!!!
Slide hoses and spool valve rearwards and note posisition of all parts.
Replace the seals on the spool valve note they have a lip that MUST face the proper direction in order to seal. The lip faces the pressure (they face inward).
Make sure the washers and rubber washers(cushions) are in the correct order as shown in the shop manual.
Slide hose block assembly back over the spool valve.
Install front bolts.
Install rear cushion and washer in the proper order. then the spacer bushing and spring next
Put the 1/2 self locking nut back on and tighten snug.
IMPORTANT
BACK OFF THE NUT 1 FLAT or up to 1/4 TURN
Reinstall cover and screws
Start engine and check for leaks.
Go on a test drive, If you dont like the sensitivity, remove the rear cover and adjust the nut A TINY BIT at a time (tighter if delayed boost and odd feeling, looser if "darty" and sensitive to bumps.
See it wasn't that hard and you did it yourself!
And you didn't even have to remove any hoses!!!
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The larger 1/2" size bulbs are the 57R. and the ones in the overhead and console areas are 1445R.
Standard bulbs can be dyed with craft supply (Hobby Lobby, Michaels...etc) stained glass paint.
A transparent paint used in the "low cost" do-it-yourself stained glass painting kits.
Brad
P.S. hrhchazman offers to dye your bulbs reasonably.
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I am in North Central Texas, with 3o x 40 insulated, concrete floor barn, industrial 12 foot fluorescent, 3 ton chain hoist on trolley. Hmmm, if I offer free use, I wonder if I could barter for some work on my R2?
I'm still working out the details on getting up and running (equipment).
However, work space can usually be found reasonably. It's a matter of how much work can be sheduled in a given area, and what type of services are needed.
I would need to have several jobs lined up and a deposit of good faith in hand in order to travel to any given area. I would need a minimum amount, so many jobs makes your investment go further. With enough advanced planning, parts could be ordered and in hand when I arrive.
I would be traveling with my wife and pets in my own motorhome. I still have a full time job in the mean time and help my wife in her business too.
http:/bez-jewelry.com
Hopefully will be up and running sooner than later!
I want to meet nice people and cement solid frendships around the country!
What better way than helping on your automotive dreams!?
Brad Bez
Metric Spedometer
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted
The phone company said that was a bad number....(I had tried previously). My cell provider want's $9 a month to give me 411 info access! (AT&T).