brad
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Posts posted by brad
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SI has them coming out soon. They are most likely better than the ones I have seen from the other vendor mentioned. I will also surmise they would be priced much lower. I would also think you will be treated as a valued customer, even if you don't spend $10,000 dollars with them like the "other" vendor demanded before he would sell a $300 dollar part to me.
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Chevron?
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2.87 is the highest ratio available. none were ordered.
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I have a Lark Gauge to use.
I am in St. Louis
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Here is a gas gauge with the face off. Look at the wires finer that a hair. The lowest the sending unit is supposed to go is 33 ohms, That is enough to limit the current from frying the heating elements. I could attempt to change over the face of your gauge for $90. Or, I could change the face off of yours to a Lark style Gauge, and it would be an exact match for resistance and accuracy. I won't know if any are compatible until I get them both here.
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The fuel gauge is a bi-metallic strip that is heated to move the needle. The internal heater of the gauge consists of TWO heating elements. One is on constantly, and provides a reference voltage. The second is the variable heater to the strip. It is controlled by the variable resistance of the sending unit. The Ni-Cad resistance wires are very fine, and hooking the gauge up to a full voltage to check out the movement will often times burn one or more of the windings completely up. NEVER check gauge by hooking it up to battery voltage. ALWAYS use the sending unit to check them out . I will check to see if I have any spares, but i don't think so. I can't get the proper resistance wire. I can refurbish the face, and even transfer the face to another gauge, but repairing them once they are fried inside is very specialized.
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The only thing a Pertronix system does is replace the points for switching the coil. The coil output remains the same as before. For a strong ignition, you need a capacitive discharge setup, and or a higher output coil. My favorite Stude setup is to use a Chrysler hall effect trigger to trigger an MSD 6AL box to a E core Coil. The voltage TO THE COIL is 400 volts. The voltage out is 40,000. Three sparks per firing of the cylinder to help keep misfirings from occuring.
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I did it once by lifting through the door opening with an engine hoist. I didn't have enough help to lift with muscle so I had help balancing it while one person worked the jack. The car was completely stripped of doors interior, and all glass. I placed a 2x12 lengthwise through the front and rear windshield openings. I placed a padded towel around the rear, and spaced the wood above the roll bar area, so it would take most of the force. Then I placed the lift arm of the engine hoist under the wood under the roll bar area, and jacked it up from underneath with the arm reaching in from the side door opening. As the body lifted, and it was determined I had the balance point ok, another person steadied the body from swinging while It was lifted clear of the frame, and pulled back sideways off the frame. A rolling body dolly was imeadiately then placed under it, and lowered back down onto it. It worked, but barely/ The best way is to find a two post lift with arms supporting the hog troughs at the front and rear of each trough. Lift the body off the frame that way, and roll the frame out from under.
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Has a wee bit over 6700 now. as of last month.
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"Poly" is short for polychromate. All that is means is it is metallic, nothing else. No secret more durable formula nothing . it is fanciful thinking like saying a McKinnon engine is anything other than a standard 283.
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Ouch, no false. You don't want to do this. The steering wheel will whip back and forth wildly. If you service the steering and don't pay attention, I would recommend that you don not reach through the spokes of the steering wheel to the ignition switch when you start it!!!!
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Here is an example of Avanti grey. I also have a PPG formula for it.
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You will not find a spray in a single can that will match. The reason being is claret is a two stage color. That is the base of maroon is oversprayed with a mottled darker maroon maybe a 1/2 shade darker. A single tone will not look correct. You need to find a paint supplier that can mix a vinyl dye, and save part of that back, and tint it slightly darker, and use that to mist over the first dye. It takes lots of practice, and adjustment of air pressure. Thin the darker overspray more, so it doesn't spatter, it needs to blend a little.
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He had at least 2 Avanti IIs . One was a black 70, and of course the last one the 76 Gold one that I have worked on.
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They are brass, not bronze.
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It's fase, although they did sell a repair panel that was a section between the center of the headlight openings. Stock piece went from the centerline of the fender peaks.
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I use them all the time. It's still not a cure for preventative maintenance.
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Actually #1 does list the higher number on the production order.
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That one also had fuel pressure. I hope they engineered it better than what I have seen on other R3s. Totally incomprehensible to plumb fuel into the passenger compartment. I reworked that R3 fuel pressure gauge with a fuel pressure isolator (Moroso brand) and plumbed an inert silicon fluid to the gauge from it.
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#9 is pretty quiet....it hasn't run in 30+ years sitting in a museum. ! (most of the time)
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The TPS is also built into the carburetor, and is activated by a small plastic pin that is depressed by the accelerator pump arm. Care must be taken so that pins isn't broken on assembly by depressing it with a small pick when the top is reinstalled.
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Nope, the first one had ( I believe) 4.89 gears. and was later changed at the behest of the owner to a more reasonable ratio. 3.31 I believe, I'll check tomorrow when I see the car, and load up the #9 car on the transport back to the Crawford Museum.
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Oil temp? Like this one had?
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False, One of the designs was going to be a front removable "Targa" section. The roll bar was the rear anchor point for that.
Fuel Gauge
in 1963-64 Avanti
Posted · Edited by brad
LOL. Sure. Whatever works for you. I will await contact so you can get my shipping address.