Jump to content


AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Thanks for your comments, Lou. The car is original and relatively low mileage at 50k, runs great but certainly showing lots of age (its my '71 that is shown in my forum avatar).

    Maybe my previous comment about my '71 was wrong and the "extra" fuel tube does go all the way back to the tank... in fact, I removed the fuel tank from the car some years back and took photos which I just reviewed, and there appears to be a rubber hose coming through the floor on the left side just in front of the tank and going up and Tee'ing into a "Z" shaped metal tubing pipe criss-crossing the length of the tank, a few inches above the tank... I don't recall where the other end of the hose goes, it may just be open to the atmosphere.

    I also seem to recall that the '80 has a smog emissions vapor cannister in the engine compartment, which may be where that same tube might terminate on the '80.

    Time for me to stop talking and go look (maybe tomorrow, but I have an XJS with big problems I need to tend to). Old age is a terrible thing.

  2. Looks like the Blazer has the hose connections headed in the wrong direction for my car unless the my steel fuel lines were to be re-routed and cut in length, but you've confirmed that there are 3 fuel ports on the pump, 1 in and 2 out (?), so that's a step in the right direction. I wonder why the extra line only returns a few feet and joins the main fuel supply line from the tank... don't really understand how that loop prevents vapor lock, or for that matter, how a simple "one line in, one line out" fuel pump manages to maintain pressure no matter the flow rate to the carburetor.

    My '71 Avanti has the same style fuel line with the T-junction along the outer frame rail although I think the return line rose up into the engine compartment (never went to the fuel pump) and was simply capped off ... I need to check that.

    I had always assumed that the extra few feet of steel fuel tubing was originally needed by supercharged Stude Avanti's (not sure why) and the same tubing was simply used as is from the parts stash purchased by Newman & Altman when the Avanti-II was built. Must be some info somewhere about that second fuel tube. My guess is that its purpose is to reduce pump cavitation by giving excess fuel a place to go rather than churning within the pump itself; but it would make more sense to me if it went all the way back to the tank instead of just back a few feet before rejoining the main fuel line.

  3. The hose connecting the gas tank to the fuel line tube was recently replaced (after the issue started). I've not noticed any fuel leaks.

    Here is a larger version of the pic I posted initially (it may take a few seconds to load):


    It looks as though there are 2 rubber hoses going to the pump, in addition to the steel line to the carb.

    I need to get more/better pics, it's maddening to not quite be able to see the fuel pump, but here is an editor-enhanced and annotated photo taken from in front of the right upper A-arm pivot,

    perhaps this pic will jog someone's memory...


    I labeled one item (near top left) as "hex fitting", I assume at the end of the pump-to-carb steel tube, but I am not sure of that.

    IIRC. there is a "T" in the steel fuel line (that runs along the frame) at about the center of the car, with a second steel tube running forward from the "T"... never really understood the reason for that (re-circulation of fuel through the pump?)... could that steel line to the upper left on the photo (annotated by "???") be routed from that "T"? Or is that tube actually the fuel line and the tube I labeled as "fuel line from tank" is the extra tube?

    Either way, does that mean the fuel pump needs 3 fittings?

    I did find a C10 pickup pump for a 305CI V8 that does have 2 tubes plus the hex fitting:


  4. I have a weird issue with my 1980 Avanti.

    My driveway is on a fairly steep incline. If I leave my '80 parked uphill on the driveway for any extended time, it refuses to start, cranks until the battery runs down but no gas is getting pumped to the carburetor (disconnected the line at the carb and nothing comes out while cranking).The gas tank is more than half-full.

    If I get it down to the street where it sits level, and wait for awhile, it starts fine after cranking a bit, and runs strong thereafter.

    I've checked and changed the inline filter.

    I am thinking maybe a bad fuel pump or blocked feed line to the pump, but neither really explains why it starts and runs fine on level ground.

    Any other ideas?

    Anybody know the application for a fuel pump in a 1980 Avanti? I'd like to have parts in hand before tearing into it (actually, I intend to have it done and would like to be able to bring the parts along with me to the shop). Tried to take some pics with the car on the ground, but couldn't get any good shots of how the lines connect to the pump, the pump is really crammed between the front frame crossmember and the engine.

    I thought perhaps Malibu, but the Malibu pump doesn't look right to me.

    I did find a C10 pickup pump for a 305CI V8 that does have 3 tubes plus the hex fitting:



  5. Nice work, Tom.

    I never understood how the (Avanti II) factory allowed such a crappy situation to exist.

    There was (maybe still is) some sort of kit that was supposed to bolster that area, and I ordered it, but it came without instructions and I never figured out how those few small pieces of metal were supposed to be used.

    On my '71 I tried to add support below the battery with an old round rubber bumper that I found at a swap meet (with a threaded stud embedded). I attached a makeshift bracket to the frame using two existing bolt ends; the bracket used two nuts to adjust and lock the height of the pad to meet the the battery. Not ideal (a couple of studs attached beneath a metal battery tray, with a rubber mat in the tray, might have been better); certainly not as good as your innovation, but I'm hoping it helps:



  6. If the kit is a universal fit and doesn't require an electronic speedo or HEI ignition, it should work fine.

    I did it many years back in a '66 Avanti I've long since sold, but unfortunately the Dana kit I used is long out of production. It used a magnet (attached to the driveshaft) and sensor, with a vacuum bellows in the engine compartment, a mechanical vacuum dump switch on the brake pedal linkage, a small electronic control box under the dash, and a replacement turn signal lever similar to those used by GM in that time period.

    It was not particularly hard to install, and worked fine. I do not recall if it had a "resume" or "accel" capability like modern cars, though, it may have only had an on/off switch and a speed set switch.

    Closest thing now is probably this Audiovox CCS-100 kit (and I doubt these are still in production): http://tinyurl.com/j3zer9r

    I wouldn't like that button control box, however... one can probably still find old 70's GM cars in junkyards that might have the column-mounted turn signal/cruise levers that could be adapted.

    Apparently some Dakota Digital setups use the same lever... I found this one on eBay:


    Google searches turned up the following:

    http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/cruise-control-kits (picture at top shows the type of steering column lever I mentioned)



  7. I haven't posted a photo here in several years, yet I don't recall the size limit being as low as 57kb; but, I was able to duplicate the method you used to post those thumbnail photos (see method 2, below).

    Method 1: I'll try simply plopping a photo into my reply right below here:


    Method 2: Here is what a photo loaded to the reply using the "More reply options", then "Browse", then "Attach This File" looks like (turns out to be just a thumbnail, as your post was, even though the photo is larger):


    But notice that if you right-click on that thumbnail, you'll see the full image as it existed on my disk (larger than a thumbnail, but not a BIG photo, simply because the photo I chose was 864x578 pixels, or 65kb);

    when I did that with your photos, the right-clicked images presented were the same size as your thumbnails.

    Method 3: subscribe to a photo album posting website such as photobucket or shutterfly (there are others) and upload the photo to that website, then post a link to the photo on the photo-hosting website, like this one:


  8. This looks as though it is a match for your motor & transmission... but it's expensive and has a lot of watchers:


    You could make an offer. If you don't get it, at least you know what you are looking for.

    As a last resort, some plating shops that specialize in plating parts for older cars may have the ability to repair pot metal and aluminum castings (but that won't be cheap, either).

  9. Just for grins, I did a Google search on the paint issue and came up with this (see page 413):

    More Than They Promised: The Studebaker Story

    by Thomas Bonsall (pages 414 & 415)


    It says the Ditzler Deltron urethane paint wouldn't properly bond with the Avanti fiberglass

  10. The explanation I heard was the new body composition required far more cure time before any primer or paint to be applied. The lack of time for the chemical solvents to come to the surface and evaporate meant any coating applied would lose adhesion and come off.

    The story I remember hearing was that they finally tracked the problem to minute quantities of compressor oil leaking into the compressed air piping system used to power the paint guns.

  11. Where is the antenna and antenna cable routing?

    My '71 antenna is on the left rear fender, isn't yours?

    It extends down into the trunk and is accessible from inside the trunk (although it may be difficult to access the antenna cable's attachment to the mast).

    The antenna cable travels (inside the car) beside electrical cables in a narrow channel in the floor beside the left side of the driveshaft hump, crosses to left at base of fuel tank shelf behind the rear seatback, and enters the trunk via a hole just to the inside of the wheel well, about 8 inches or so below the package shelf. I don't think there are any junctions in the antenna cable,

  12. Chuck: "replaced the old motors (both of which had cracked magnets that stopped them from turning) with Dorman motors out of a Ford truck for $35 apiece,"

    More precise info would be nice... what year & model Ford truck, or a part number from the Ford motors? What sort of modifications were done with the Dremel tool?

  13. RQB3263 ...I received the radiator overflow tank caps today and of coarse they fit perfectly ...Many thanks to Charles Peckham of Middletown, RI...best wishes to all for a happy holiday and Merry Christmas....BILL RQB3263

    Also "I'll be using the caps sent to me by our contributor"

    Wildfeir, how about letting the rest of us know what happened here... did "Charles Peckam" (whoever that is) just happen to have a stash of old caps and contact you via private message, or is there a source you should be letting the rest of us know about? Sheesh! ff that's what happened, and there is no source for new caps, say it, don't leave the rest of us wondering.

  14. Finding the cap alone may be a real challenge.

    1) Can you see if there is a pressure rating on your old cap? (if so, my guess is 7#) If you can, you might try taking it to a NAPA store to see if they have anything like it.

    Some of those Radi-Acc overflow reservoirs did not use a pressurized cap with a venting nipple, they just caught a certain volume of overflow vented by the radiator cap

    and the excess beyond that is vented from a nipple near the top of the reservoir.

    2) If you have the Radi-acc overflow setup, here's a possible source for a new cap


    Looks like they may only sell in bulk, but perhaps they can point you to a retailer that carries their line.

    3) Hard to tell from the pictures whether these are the same capacity as the one on the Avanti (about 2 1/2 quarts), but they look very similar and aren't terribly expensive...



    4) try Nostalgic Motorcars to see if they have an overflow tank for your '81

    5) if the cap is just plastic and has no pressure vent/spring and outlet nipple, measure the diameter and see if there's anything in the supermarket that has a similar cap (lemonade, iced tea, etc)

  15. New radiators are available from vendors, but expensive: http://www.studebaker-intl.com/PDF/Cooling.pdf

    Check these prior discussions of the topic:



    And, I downloaded a more through write-up by Avanti83 back in 2013 that I'll be happy to forward to you if you'll send me a private message with your email address.

    He used a 19x26 generic aluminum radiator.

  16. Any suggestions for sources or fixes?

    Today I was looking through a stash of Microsoft Word documents I've saved over the years, some of which are Avanti-related, and I came across this (perhaps it'll be of some help)

    I'm not sure whether I wrote it, or if I found it somewhere...

    Thoughts on checking a bad tachometer on an Avanti:

    Luckily I haven`t had to worry about this problem as yet, but here`s a couple of hints and thoughts: start by checking all the wiring to the tach sender and the tach itself for loose or corroded connections.

    The tach sender is a flat cannister about 4 inches in diameter by a half inch high, located on top of the horizontal steel dash support, just below and to the right of the tach head.

    There are 4 terminals on top of it.

    The tach sender gets its rpm timing signal from the negative terminal on the coil to the terminal marked `D`.

    The sender gets 12v from the circuit used for the automatic shifter... this is the 2-amp fuse in the fusebox closest to the circuit breakers... check the fuse and check for 12v to the sender terminal marked `+`.

    There is a terminal marked with the grounding symbol which should have a white ground wire attached... check this wire for continuity to body ground.

    Lastly, there is a yellow wire from the tach sender terminal marked `M` to the brass terminal on the back of the tach head.

    On the tach head there also are 2 black power leads for night illumination bulbs, and 2 white leads for ground for those same bulbs.

    I`m not an electrical techie so I do not know how to check for the signal from the coil to the tach sender `D` terminal and from the sender to the head (yellow wire) but I guess I`d play with the 12v setting on a fuse-protected ohmmeter to see if that picks up any kind of reading at the `D` and `M` terminals on the sender and the brass terminal at the tach head that varies with engine rpm.

    Hope that all made some sense.

  17. Gunslinger, I replaced the stock distributor/coil setup with a GM HEI distributor in my '71 Avanti years ago and found the tach worked fine getting its signal from the HEI's tach attach terminal;

    required my finding the correct GM wire terminal to mate to the HEI tach (and I replaced the pink resistor wire to the distributor with a normal wire as part of the swap).

    Can't say for certain, but my guess is that the Crane output signal is probably the equivalent (an intermittant 12v signal, same as a points distributor) and would probably work if he had a working sender.

    One possible way to find out if the sender works might be to run a wire from the tach terminal of another running car (either points distributor or HEI) to his sender's input wire (with Avanti ignition on).

    My guess is that his tach will register if the Avanti's sender and tach are both good.

    There may be a way to use a multimeter to check the output of the sender, but you'd need a known good Avanti to find out what the reading should look like... my guess is that the sender

    puts out a variable voltage signal.

    Beyond that, he'd probably need to swap parts with another Avanti to find out which component is bad, or as you suggest, swap out the old speedo & sender for a modern electric tach setup.

  18. Thanks for sharing. I don't remember that article, but I did have quite a bout with the passenger side window on one of my Avanti's years ago; you could actually see the door panel bow inward when the window was operated, and the inner door fiberglass panel was cracking in several places from the power window repeatedly flexing it, and some of the bolt holes were elongated.

    I made some 1/8" sheet aluminum brackets and spacers contoured with a jigsaw to fit within the recesses of the inner door panel's contours (and used the window mechanism bolts to anchor them to the fiberglass). Those brackets tied the various window mechanism attachment bolts together to stop the bowing, spread the force loads, and hopefully keep the panel from developing more cracks.

    I think that was back about 1982, long before I bought a digital camera and regrettably I didn't document the repair. I'm pretty sure I subsequently sold that car (I've owned 6 Avanti's over the years, and can't always remember what I did to which car).

  19. 84 to 86 Jeep Cherokee interchange nicely as I recall. Probably most Chrysler cars of that era used the same thing.

    I went through my power windows in my 73 and they've been working just fine since.

    Could you elaborate on those statements, please.

    1. What year Avanti's do those Jeep Cherokee motors interchange with? (if there's a substitute for the '63 through the 1970's PW motors, I'd like to kow that)

    2. What did "went through my power windows in my 73" consist of doing?



  • Create New...