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WayneC

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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. I bought my '71 Avanti from the original owner in the late '70s.  I wasn't crazy about the shade of brown the car was painted, but it was in beautiful condition with low miles. I nicknamed the color "baby s**t brown".

    Some years later the RF fender was slightly damaged while parked (hit & run), and when I took it to the repair shop they identified the color as being from a dirt-cheap Japanese economy car (can't remember which brand now, but the repair color matched exactly); I've no idea why the original buyer chose that color, but I guess it proves that Avanti Motors would paint them any color the customer wanted.

    I had it repainted later in a lighter (and less greenish) early-90s Mercedes color: "Desert Taupe".

    BTW, if perusing colors in online catalogs, be aware the colors look entirely different in person (I bought some manufacturers color sample books before I chose);

    here are 1) catalog color as viewed online  2) photo of a Mercedes in that color  3) closeup of my Avanti in that color

     

     

    1521133053_1990MercedesDesertTaupe.jpeg.39f9733a23cd4f6759fbfe8282fc2e8c.jpeg

    Desert Taupe.jpeg

    Mercedes Desert Taupe.jpeg

    1521133053_1990MercedesDesertTaupe.jpeg.39f9733a23cd4f6759fbfe8282fc2e8c.jpeg

  2. The book "Avanti" by Thomas Bonsall says that all Avanti II's had the Avanti II emblems until Blake bought Avanti Motors and started building cars in1983 and dropped the "II".

    I owned '66, '69, and '71 Avanti's and all had "Avanti" emblems on front and rear, with several missing the "II" emblems (but mounting holes remained.
     

  3. I've owned older Corvettes and Avanti's and I believe the wiper arms are the same type of design. The wiper arm slides onto a splined post/shaft and has a spring "tang" that keeps the arm firmly attached to the post.

    My recollection (haven't done it in some time) is that the easiest way to remove & reposition the wiper arm is to use an inexpensive special tool shown below; ensure the arms are parked, fit the tool in place, note the arm position, carefully squeeze the tool handle and the wiper arm together with one hand to release the spring "tang" lock, keep the hand pressure on the tool and the arm and carefully jiggle/pull/guide the arm straight up & off the pivot shaft with fingers of your free hand, then rotate the arm to the park position you desire, and slide/re-seat the arm back down onto the splined pivot shaft.

    ...the technique is shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKvbtxGiI_w

    You can also use a flat blade screwdriver, but you will find it difficult to keep the screwdriver properly positioned beneath the edge of the slip-on wiper arm while simultaneously pulling the wiper arm straight up off the pivot (and there's danger that you may unintentionally mar the paint or damage the arm if things slip... protecting that area of the body with something like fender protectors is good insurance no matter what technique you use, and a patch of electrical tape atop the wiper arm at the post to protect it from scratches).

    The tool is available from AutoZone and probably most other local auto parts stores (worth the price, and works well if used carefully, despite the single bad review at Autozone), or buy it from Amazon for a buck or two less (search on "Corvette wiper arm removal tool"), or ask your gearhead friends if they have one you can borrow.

    1654058291_Dormanwiperremovaltool.thumb.jpeg.c55abb70d88920264989ecaf391934cc.jpeg

  4. Sounds like your master cylinder (M/C) has been leaking into the booster; brake fluid is incompatible with the booster diaphragm and will damage it. I use silicone brake fluid to avoid this sort of issue.

    If the M/C bore is not corroded you may be able to buy a kit to replace the seals, but chances are the bore is corroded and the cost of a new M/C is reasonable.

    Studebaker International lists the M/C at $96.50 + shipping & tax

    I think the closest replacement for the M/C is a Napa NMC-P1955 ($92 new, or $50 remanufactured + your old core) but you may have to use a  pipe-thread adapter for the (rear brake) line coming off the front port. I did that on a 1980 Avanti.

    The booster can be rebuilt: http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/  I recommend them. They may also be able to rebuild your old Master cylinder

       or there are other rebuilders for master cylinders, for example:

         https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/

         http://www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com/Master-Cylinders-Wheel-Cylinders.page

      

  5. Gene, thanks for reminding me, I need to update this thread. As I stated, I was asking the questions for a friend who recently purchased an '82 that was missing the reservoir.

    I had suggested some vendors for him to call and he was slow getting around to it.... he did find and purchase a reservoir from Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motorcars, for a fairly reasonable price considering the rarity. He said they do have more in stock. I have not personally seen his new reservoir, but he sounded pleased with it. I'll see if I can get photos to post here (he's not very tech-savvy, so I'm not sure he can send me photos).

  6. I can only answer generically, b/c I'm not sure which motor the 1983 Avanti used... Nostalgic Motorcars could probably answer that question:  248-349-4884 

    Here is an article on the original P/W setup, which was still used in my 1971 model; I know it was changed at some point

       https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Pwin/rkorb/rkrobpwinrep.html

    The original motors were used on the cars below and can sometimes be found on eBay, but they're usually pricey.

       1960 Ford/Lincoln part # C0LF-14553-A, or Bosch # M 05810. Ford station wagon tailgate window motor C0LF-14553-B may also work.

    If the issue is a simple internal motor failure, a motor rebuilding service might be able to make repairs (many cities and large towns have electrical motor repair/rebuild shops)

    Here's one Avanti owner who innovated: https://studebaker-info.org/Avanti/Tech/PWIN/nollerpwinp0913.html

    I also sent you a private message.

    Good luck and please let us know what motor your car has (part numbers & pics, please, to add to our knowledge) and how you make out with repairs.

     

  7. My only thought is that its not rocket science, the cable is apparently not fully seated/inserted at both ends (almost has to be the speedo end), or it is broken somewhere in between (unlikely since it worked before the cable was disconnected). It might be easiest to ask a shop to fit the cable from beneath, with the car on a lift, that is, remove the speedo cable at the tranny, push & turn the cable at that end until it seats into the speedometer, then re-insert/reconnect it at the transmission end.

  8. Yes, if the rear seals (O-rings) on the master cylinder piston leak, the fluid can be sucked into the booster and attack the bladder. If you are using silicone brake fluid, the booster bladder may not be damaged, but the master cylinder still needs to be repaired/replaced.

     

  9. Did you try Nostalgic Motors? How about a want ad on this venue?

    I bought one from Nostalgic back in the mid 1980's. But it is not stainless steel. I think I paid in excess of $400 for it at the time, because they were rare even back then. It was meant for a later model (provisions for a filler pipe intended for unleaded fuel), the only type of tank available at the time, so it would probably require some filler-related alterations for use in an earlier Avanti. I haven't used it yet, and probably won't (I live in CA now), because I've long since sold the Avanti I thought might need it some day. Perhaps you'd like to make me an offer (offline).

    Or, there are "universal" fuel tanks available that could be researched for size and modified by a radiator repair shop to add/swap-in the external "plumbing" needed by the Avanti. For example: http://www.yogisinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=13671/category_id=2566/mode=prod/prd13671.htm

  10. Here's a reply I got from Ischuc last January when I had the same issue (but its a shame to lose content, since others may be searching old posts to answer their questions):

    "Try clicking on your user name at the top right corner of the web browser, and then select "My Attachments" from the drop down menu.  You should then see the list of all the images you have attached, and should be able to click on the topic title at the right side of the list and delete the topic, or at least delete the images  you attached inside the topic"

  11. I buy pads from Nostalgic in Michigan: 248-349-4884 (I had bad luck when I tried some from a local parts store)

        ...I expect they also carry front wheel cylinders and/or rebuild kits

    You can also buy parts here: http://avantiparts.biz/brakes/?sort=featured&page=1

       ...or here: https://www.parts123.com/parts123/dyndetail.pta?catalog=0001003a&uKeY=AARCZ

       ...or here: https://xks.com/i-7084309-jaguar-front-wheel-cylinder-2-1-8-square-pads-8777.html

    Or even rebuilt calipers (core trade or outright): http://avantiparts.biz/brake-caliper-disk-brake-pair/

    Here is some good info: http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/Brakes/calipers.html

  12. Just a rant, but I did a web search on this company to see if they have a website, and it seems they only use Facebook. I can't understand why businesses do that. I do not have a Facebook account, nor do I want to pay to open one just to access a business page, and I'm sure many other computer users feel the same way.

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