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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. I have a plug socket with a hex outer shape at the ratchet end... haven't done plugs for a long time, but I know I used a box wrench with that socket to get #7 plug from beneath the car. A ratcheting box wrench would probably come in handy with that same socket.

    I also was able to get several plugs through the wheel wells (using a ratchet with a long extension inserted between the upper A-arm and the fender, wheel removed).

  2. My opinion:

    I believe the rear crossmember is there to support the spare tire, which otherwise might vibrate the fiberglass well it's sitting in (or the surrounding floor) enough to eventually break the fiberglass (through fatigue), or without that support the trunk floor may sag if it is loaded with luggage or whatever.

    I'm not sure about the hog troughs, I don't know enough about how they are fastened (I've never replaced any), and I generally bow to Dan's expertise... but I suspect they may be there to add structural strength to the body.

    In 63-67 Corvettes (coupes, especially), there is a stamped sheetmetal "birdcage" that acts as a dimensional stabilizer and strengthener to the fiberglass panels; the sheetmetal cage supports the dash and door hinges, runs around the windshield, doors, etc, and is welded together as a framework first, to which the fiberglass is bonded as the body is built-up in jigs. I've never seen an Avanti that's had all the fiberglass burned away, and any such metal "birdcage" (or "roll cage") structure pieces are not shown in the parts manual because they aren't considered field-replaceable parts. I know that on Corvettes, the birdcage is prone to serious rusting if the windshield seal has been leaking (usually at the base of the door hinge pillars where they meet the door sill frame mount area, and around the door hinge mounts, the base of the windshield frame, etc)... it is near impossible to find a used birdcage in serviceable condition, and even if one can be located, it is a prohibitive amount of work to replace large sections of birdcage, and then repair the fiberglass bonded to the birdcage; serious corrosion damage to the birdcage in multiple areas is considered fatal in most cases, requiring a salvaged donor body.

    By the way, although I'm not positive, I don't think Dan Booth worked at Studebaker, which was based in South Bend IN. He's lived in SE Michigan at least since the early 70's when I first knew him (probably has all his life). He ran a small auto repair business back then (first with a partner, then on his own), personally owned Avantis, and was the go-to guy for Avanti repairs in the greater Detroit metro area. He later became a dealer, too, selling new and used Avanti's. In the mid-80s Kelly decided to stop supporting older ('84 and prior) Avanti's, and also decided to sell new Avanti's only through established US car major-brand dealerships (which meant Dan's Avanti dealership days were over). In financial trouble, Kelly also decided to sell off all his parts stock specific to Stude-chassis models (1984 and earlier)... Dan bought that parts inventory, and opened his current location of Nostalgic Motors in Wixom MI.

  3. That was helpful, thanks!

    Just out of curiosity, was the 12v electrical connector the same, too?

    To post a picture, you may need an account at a host location, like Photobucket.

    Then you upload photos to an album in your Photobucket account. When you view the photo you placed in the Photobucket account, they give you "image links" to the right of your photo and if you click one of those (like "direct link") it pastes the link in your notepad so you can then use a right-click "paste" to place that link in your posting here.... I'll try that now:

    http://i1032.photobu...zpsf362c7c2.jpg ...the reader clicks the url to go see the post

    Alternately, you can attach a photo (or photos) to your post, in which case the reader clicks the attachment link to see the photo(s)... that's done by clicking on "More Reply Options" and then on "Choose Files" button below the posting area and navigating to each photo on your computer you wish to include in the attachment.

    Or, you can place a photo inline in your text by clicking on the icon that is a frame with a green picture, and placing the url of the photo you stored at your photo-hosting site (photobucket) into the reply field, which puts the photo inline with your text.

    So, 3 different approaches that I'm aware of:

    1. put a link to your photo (at a photo-hosting service) into your text. Reader clicks the url link.

    2. add an attachment containing photo(s) to your post (uploaded to AOAI directly from your computer

    and you are limited to 500kb total size of photos). Reader clicks the attachment link.

    3. place photos inline with your text (said photos must be resident on a photo-hosting service);

    pictures appear in your text.

  4. Well, that's a little more info, thanks, but I suspect some folks are like me, I sometimes squirrel away rare spare parts, if I find them at a bargain price, with the expectation that someday they'll be needed and may not be readily available. I don't know what Avanti sun or moon roof motors look like. I did peruse eBay listings for Mercedes motors, which differed wildly from each other. I certainly won't be tearing my roof liner apart to find out what the motor looks like unless/until I actually need to do so. I was hoping you might post a photo or a link to an eBay listing that has that particular motor pictured very clearly so as to be easily identifiable. Even when I don't intend buying parts in advance, I save articles about repairs in Word documents, with pictures, for my future reference in case I DO need the information.

  5. If there were any markings on the motor you found (part numbers), please post those so others will know what to look for. What models of Mercedes did the eBay listing say it fit? Sunroof or moonroof?

    What did you have to change on the coupler to make it fit?

    Inquiring minds want to know :>)

    (and pics would be nice, for example the pics used for the eBay listing).

  6. I installed a vacuum cruise unit on two Avanti's ('66 and '71) many years ago, made by the common aftermarket supplier at that time (I'm having a senior moment, can't remember the name, probably "Dana"... they were vacuum units with a magnet sensor on the driveshaft). I agree with Bob that the choice today is probably a Rostra unit, coupled with a column switch that GM used back then (junkyard item or buy a similar switch):


    http://www.rostra.co...l-by-rostra.php (but expensive)

    A new switch very similar to the old GM switch is available here:


    A real problem today seems to be the availability of the old vacuum bellows units, anything older than mid 1980's (the simple ones without all the electronic connections, just an air tube connector)... nobody seems to be reproducing them.

  7. I thought I was being clear, but apparently not... I assumed you were looking for the power window mechanism, and if you couldn't find those parts, you were willing to buy an entire door, from which you would remove the window lift mechanism for use in your own door. I guess I misunderstood.

    The discussion of door locks is interesting and potentially useful info, but doesn't answer the question of whether the window mechanics are different.

  8. Thanks for the reply.

    In Kramerdad1's case, he was interested only in the power window mechanics, I wonder if those changed, too.

    (I know the window motors for original Avanti's and my '71 are getting hard to find).

    It would be nice to know the differences, but I'm not about to take two doors apart to find out! :>)

  9. its a 63 door, wont fit an '80

    I've previously owned a '63 Avanti and about 5 other Avanti II's of various years and never noticed a difference,

    though I haven't examined them closely or tried to interchange them. I currently own a '71 and an '80.

    My understanding was that Altman simply shimmed the front end to raise it, and filled in a few inches above the

    front wheel openings, but not that the doors or any other panels were changed (except for trim holes).

    Is it only the window mechanism that was changed? Where can I find out more?

    Do you know what year the doors were changed?

  10. Most, if not all, systems won't go into closed loop until the engine reaches a preset temperature. Whether it's 195 degrees for you I don't know, but they will run rich until warmed up to that predetermined temp.

    I'm not familiar with this particular application, but the computer needs input as to engine coolant temperature, so it's also possible there's a coolant sensor giving bad (low) readings. Check to see if there is a coolant temperature sensor (likely on the thermostat housing) and that it has intact connecting wires at both ends of the harness. I wasn't able to find info on how to test the sensor against specs, other than this general article:


    My next culprit suspect would be a bad exhaust oxygen sensor.

  11. I cannot claim any familiarity with the a/c system, never worked on it, but...

    in looking at the electrical diagram, it shows a blower switch and a temperature (thermal) switch... let's call it the t/t switch

    The blower switch has a yellow wire, a black wire, and a green wire connected to it; the t/t switch is connected to the blower switch (a/c console fan) by the green wire, and it in turn connects to the compressor clutch (and to a throttle solenoid in 1977 & later models) via a brown wire.

    From the diagram I assume the blower switch has to be on before the t/t switch gets power.

    Therefore, with the blower switch on, it should be easy to check to see if the green wire to the t/t switch is getting 12v. If it is, the setting of the t/t switch probably determines how frequently the compressor clutch is activated (the t/t is probably a variable resistor switch that opens and closes the circuit when heated by 12v power). If you set the t/t switch to a high a/c setting and you never see 12v at the connection of the brown wire to the t/t switch (using a multimeter or test light to jumper to ground), then I'd suspect the t/t switch is bad. The other possibility is that the brown wire from the t/t switch to the a/c compressor clutch is broken somewhere in its path... to check that, just jumper the green and brown wire connectors at the t/t switch... the a/c compressor clutch should activate.

  12. Did you (or can you) compare the new starter to the old one? I think Chevy starters are pretty much the same; there are a few different starter nose designs that have been used. If the starter bolts to the engine and the nose of the starter snugs to the space available at the opening of the flywheel (ring gear), then chances are the issue is one of shimming the starter mount...

    Here is a link to some information on Chevy starters:


    Here is some info I saw somewhere and squirreled away:

    Re: Starter shims

    Take the lower sheetmetal shield(s) off the flywheel, so you can see the flywheel teeth from the rear of the flywheel (in the area where the starter gear contacts it).

    Take the starter off and REMOVE the solenoid (for the moment), the battery terminal wires, and 2 sets smaller wires, plus 3 small bolts to get the rest loose.

    Remount the starter SANS solenoid.

    MANUALLY pull the little thing that sits inside the solenoid to the BACK of the starter, this pulls the starter gear into the flywheel.

    Proper clearance requires BOTH of the following:

    the bendix teeth should stick through the flywheel teeth, AND, between the TOP of the bendix tooth and the valley of the flywheel tooth, there should be a space NO BIGGER than a straightened out paper clip wire. If there is NO space (the starter gear cannot be extended enough to fully engage the flywheel/ring gear), you need to add a shim or two and retry the paper clip test.

    If there is a LOT of space (much more than the paper clip wire) and there are no shims currently in place that you can remove, you need a new starter NOSE.

  13. Obviously your main concern is finding a good alignment shop that is experienced with kingpin suspensions. You might see if you can find a local old car club or a restoration shop and ask where they get old (40's and early 50's) Chevy's aligned.

    I'm not certain where I got this specification information, I saved it some years ago; copied here verbatim...

    Avanti 1963 - 1985 Wheel Alignment specs


    Adjustment at TieRods-

    Toe-in: 3/16 to 1/4 inch. (This spec is for bias ply tires.

    If you are using radial ply, then 1/16 to 1/8 inch) I've used almost '0' with radials for a long time, but you have to have very good tie rod ends to accommodate this or else you feel a kind of 'wander'.

    Adjustment at Kingpins, upper outer pin-

    Caster: (See Note 1) -3/4 degree to +3/4 degree (0' preferred)

    (Negative caster will augment the 'shopping cart' wobble possibility

    if your tierods are worn). Regardless of the 'Spec", which was really for ease of steering the heavy front end of Studebaker cars, it's worth your effort to get as much positive caster as possible.

    Positive caster enhances your car's centering ability when you are recovering from a turn. With positive caster, the front of the car is lifted when you turn the steering wheel. Letting go of the wheel allows the car to settle and will spin the steering wheel in your hands. The more positive caster, the more centering ability… but the car will seem harder to turn.

    Adjustment at Kingpins, upper outer pin-

    Camber: 0 to 1 degree, with +1/2 degree more on drivers side

    (Camber can be a problem on older cars. The upper inner control arm pin has an offset mount. It is usually installed with the offset toward the inside of the car, allowing an extra 2 degrees of camber. Check this if you can't get the camber correct. There is also a possibility that the bolts holding the upper inner pin in place have elongated the holes in the frame from being loose at one time. This will result in the arm being pulled outward, creating a POSITIVE camber (Leaning out at top) situation. You can have large washers welded in place to correct the positioning to get it back in line.

    On the opposite side of the problem, if you have too much negative camber, (leaning in at the top) then in addition to the above, consider that the main crossmember is sagging or may be cracked. Look for cracks around the upper cup holding the spring in the frame pocket or along the top around the engine mounts. This is not unheard of, given the weight of the Studebaker engine. If this is the case and repair is undertaken, be sure the mechanic suspends the front of the car by the center of the crossmember before welding. This will spread the crossmember back closer to spec and give the needed position of the control arms.

  14. wiring diag for fusebox 76, trunk button dosent work

    I have a set of diagrams that show what appears to be 2 near-identical fuse boxes side by side.

    The trunk release is a 20 amp fuse at the lower left of the right-side fusebox (there's a hazard blinker at the top left of that fusebox,

    a 10 amp fuse above the 20 amp fuse you are looking for, and a 20 amp fuse to it's right).

    The cigar lighter, ignition key buzzer, console lights, trunk light, glove compartment light, and dome lights are on the same fuse as the trunk release.

    It shows black wires from the fusebox to all of the above, including the trunk release switch in the glovebox,

    and a blue wire between the trunk release switch and the trunk release solenoid, with a white wire from the trunk solenoid to ground.

  15. What in the world possesses a body shop to go ahead and paint a car knowing the color is not the color the customer specified? Seems like they are just throwing away their time and money. I once had a shop install a convertible top that was an incorrect color, even though they thought the color choice was very strange (the shop had also just painted the car and the installer missed the fact that the label on the top that arrived with my order number on it didn't match my order; he installed a green top on a blue car). One would think that if they spot something that looks amiss they would at least pick up a phone and call the vehicle owner.

    Hope they covered the expense of their mistake for you; in my case luckily I had ordered through the installer, so the company that sold me the top re-sent the correct one and paid for the re-install, probably because they knew the installer would stop recommending them to future customers if they tried to stick him with the bill.

  16. What is the cross reference or parts guide to replace the pads, rotors, and hub bearings on the front assembles on my 75.

    Many thanks


    Those parts are all the same as Stude Avanti's, assuming your car never had a brake conversion to a Mustang setup.

    SFAIK, the Stude rotors are unique, with reproductions sold only by Avanti parts dealers.

    Studebaker International Inc has them listed at $200 each.

    These numbers may be obsolete, I'm getting them off old lists:

    bearings: Timken LM67048 & LM67010 inners, Timken LM11949 & LM11910 outers

    pads: NAPA S702, Ferodo DDB704, Mintex GDB704, Bendix 702-D28, Wagner 702 EIS B-502-D26

    Pads & bearings are also available through Avanti parts dealers, and I'd urge you to buy from them, in order to support the hobby and ensure future parts availability. :)

    I hesitate to list dealers here, because I'm likely to forget to include some; Here's a list that includes some Avanti parts dealers;


    ...or better yet, join the AOAI and find their ads in the Avanti Magazine.

  17. it appears that the front vent window weatherstrip channel must be removed by drilling out the rivets to be able to get the weatherstrip in the channel. Is that correct?


    The Avanti workshop manual, body section, page 12, gives instructions.

    If you don't already have the manual, you need to get one. ;)

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