Posts posted by WayneC
I'm not all that knowledgeable, but here's my take:
Power steering is an add-on option, I don't think anything changes in the steering column or box. Basically a pump, a hydraulic control valve (with pitman arm attached), and a hydraulic power steering assist cylinder are added; on many cars a manual steering shock absorber is replaced by a power assist cylinder, but in looking at the parts manual, it does not appear that manual-steering Avanti's used a steering shock absorber.
The power assist cylinder (1551562) can push or pull to assist the wheels to turn (by pushing or pulling on the bellcrank), depending on whether you are turning right or left, but something must tell it which way you want to turn. That's the (1556068) valve attached to the pitman arm, with that valve being operated by the "pivot ball" you reference as moving... the ball has to move to cover/uncover the proper hydraulic ports to direct fluid pressure to either push or pull that power assist cylinder rod (with force in proportion to the resistance the wheels offer to being turned and the input the driver makes by turning the steering wheel).
Think of that pivot ball being like the lever of a kitchen sink faucet, which can give low or high flow (force) and either hot or cold water (analogous to direction), and the lever must move in order to control those parameters.
So, movement of that pivot ball would be normal, especially if it is pushing against hard resistance (like when the wheels aren't rolling and you turn the steering wheel).
Don't be concerned about movement, do be concerned about fluid leakage.
Maybe these links would be of some help:
http://www.classicowheels.com/hubadapters.htm (I suspect the bolt pattern is the same as a GM column, since GM made the Chrysler columns)
Avanti used Recaro seats (optional) or their own seats (standard).
I assume you mean the standard seats and that the "button" is the large round chrome button near shoulder height on the seat back?
Have you tried Nostalgic?
I would suspect the air cleaner... check to make sure there is a gasket between the air horn and the air cleaner, and that the air cleaner base is flat (no dings/distortions). And check the vacuum hose to the transmission.
You didn't say what problem/issue you are trying to resolve. Generally, the best approach is to verify that the carburetor has the factory stock parts, all clean and in good working order, set to Holley factory specs, with a fresh fuel filter. Once it's running smoothly, then go from there if you're not happy with those settings and are trying to tune for a specific condition/environment.
Can't help you directly, but here is a link to a Corvette forum search on the 3367, which should be interesting to read (includes recommendations for rebuilders if you don't feel up to that task):
Here's some hits I found on Google:
I assume your '66 would be running AC 45 spark plugs, which probably aren't easy to find these days; here is a link to some currently on eBay:
Don't settle for something that just has "45" as part of the number, except that R45 can be used if you aren't using resistor spark plug wires.
If the spark plug electrodes are clean when inspected after a run, gapped correctly, and the wires are in good shape and snug, there should be no need for fancy (expensive) spark plugs.
I must admit I own earlier Avanti II's and haven't looked closely at the trunk latch setup on my '80, which uses a solenoid to unlatch the trunklid. I usually lurk on the 66-83 Avanti II forum, but occasionally I peruse this forum, so please forgive my uninformed question:
Looks like a good idea, but where do you run the cable, ie, is this the same as original (for what year?), where does it attach at the ends and how do you get to the cable to pull it when needed?
Regrettably, Delco no longer makes the maintenance-free battery.
Here's a photo of the bottom of the battery box on my '71 Avanti (modified by me to add a round rubber support bumper)
And a photo of the bottom of my '80 Avanti, which is different (has a better support, which I believe to be as-built by the factory)
Well, battery tray or no battery tray, you have the problem finessing the battery. Use a mechanics fender protector to try to avoid the scrapes. Removing the radiator reservoir and its connecting hoses gives you more room for a straight shot for the battery, but it's not easy removing those items, either.
That would be great. I'll take any help I can get!
I removed the battery on my '71 today and took a couple of pics for you...
1339477 is the same battery retainer I have on my '71, not sure where the plate you referenced would be,
(maybe below the forward post/rod)... I'll see if I can get below the car for a few pics.
I can't answer your question directly, but spring rate can be calculated based on the steel thickness, coil diameter, number of coils, free coils, and free height. You need someone with some expertise to input correct data...
Since the Stude spring is of uniform coil and wire diameter, it should be easy to calculate.
Spring rate for a free spring and the spring rate as installed in the A-arms are different animals, when you want the rate that the car actually feels, you need to get into precise A-arm measurements.
There are companies that can make springs to whatever specification you want, and can probably plug the info about your present springs into their computer program to calculate the current spring rate and determine how to produce the rate you'd like, or suggest specs based on your desires. for example:
Changing the rate can lead to other issues, such as how the car sits at rest, whether it bottoms-out on bumps, what shocks are needed, how the car is driven, etc. Probably as much art as science.
I have a plug socket with a hex outer shape at the ratchet end... haven't done plugs for a long time, but I know I used a box wrench with that socket to get #7 plug from beneath the car. A ratcheting box wrench would probably come in handy with that same socket.
I also was able to get several plugs through the wheel wells (using a ratchet with a long extension inserted between the upper A-arm and the fender, wheel removed).
I believe the rear crossmember is there to support the spare tire, which otherwise might vibrate the fiberglass well it's sitting in (or the surrounding floor) enough to eventually break the fiberglass (through fatigue), or without that support the trunk floor may sag if it is loaded with luggage or whatever.
I'm not sure about the hog troughs, I don't know enough about how they are fastened (I've never replaced any), and I generally bow to Dan's expertise... but I suspect they may be there to add structural strength to the body.
In 63-67 Corvettes (coupes, especially), there is a stamped sheetmetal "birdcage" that acts as a dimensional stabilizer and strengthener to the fiberglass panels; the sheetmetal cage supports the dash and door hinges, runs around the windshield, doors, etc, and is welded together as a framework first, to which the fiberglass is bonded as the body is built-up in jigs. I've never seen an Avanti that's had all the fiberglass burned away, and any such metal "birdcage" (or "roll cage") structure pieces are not shown in the parts manual because they aren't considered field-replaceable parts. I know that on Corvettes, the birdcage is prone to serious rusting if the windshield seal has been leaking (usually at the base of the door hinge pillars where they meet the door sill frame mount area, and around the door hinge mounts, the base of the windshield frame, etc)... it is near impossible to find a used birdcage in serviceable condition, and even if one can be located, it is a prohibitive amount of work to replace large sections of birdcage, and then repair the fiberglass bonded to the birdcage; serious corrosion damage to the birdcage in multiple areas is considered fatal in most cases, requiring a salvaged donor body.
By the way, although I'm not positive, I don't think Dan Booth worked at Studebaker, which was based in South Bend IN. He's lived in SE Michigan at least since the early 70's when I first knew him (probably has all his life). He ran a small auto repair business back then (first with a partner, then on his own), personally owned Avantis, and was the go-to guy for Avanti repairs in the greater Detroit metro area. He later became a dealer, too, selling new and used Avanti's. In the mid-80s Kelly decided to stop supporting older ('84 and prior) Avanti's, and also decided to sell new Avanti's only through established US car major-brand dealerships (which meant Dan's Avanti dealership days were over). In financial trouble, Kelly also decided to sell off all his parts stock specific to Stude-chassis models (1984 and earlier)... Dan bought that parts inventory, and opened his current location of Nostalgic Motors in Wixom MI.
That was helpful, thanks!
Just out of curiosity, was the 12v electrical connector the same, too?
To post a picture, you may need an account at a host location, like Photobucket.
Then you upload photos to an album in your Photobucket account. When you view the photo you placed in the Photobucket account, they give you "image links" to the right of your photo and if you click one of those (like "direct link") it pastes the link in your notepad so you can then use a right-click "paste" to place that link in your posting here.... I'll try that now:
http://i1032.photobu...zpsf362c7c2.jpg ...the reader clicks the url to go see the post
Alternately, you can attach a photo (or photos) to your post, in which case the reader clicks the attachment link to see the photo(s)... that's done by clicking on "More Reply Options" and then on "Choose Files" button below the posting area and navigating to each photo on your computer you wish to include in the attachment.
Or, you can place a photo inline in your text by clicking on the icon that is a frame with a green picture, and placing the url of the photo you stored at your photo-hosting site (photobucket) into the reply field, which puts the photo inline with your text.
So, 3 different approaches that I'm aware of:
1. put a link to your photo (at a photo-hosting service) into your text. Reader clicks the url link.
2. add an attachment containing photo(s) to your post (uploaded to AOAI directly from your computer
and you are limited to 500kb total size of photos). Reader clicks the attachment link.
3. place photos inline with your text (said photos must be resident on a photo-hosting service);
pictures appear in your text.
Well, that's a little more info, thanks, but I suspect some folks are like me, I sometimes squirrel away rare spare parts, if I find them at a bargain price, with the expectation that someday they'll be needed and may not be readily available. I don't know what Avanti sun or moon roof motors look like. I did peruse eBay listings for Mercedes motors, which differed wildly from each other. I certainly won't be tearing my roof liner apart to find out what the motor looks like unless/until I actually need to do so. I was hoping you might post a photo or a link to an eBay listing that has that particular motor pictured very clearly so as to be easily identifiable. Even when I don't intend buying parts in advance, I save articles about repairs in Word documents, with pictures, for my future reference in case I DO need the information.
If there were any markings on the motor you found (part numbers), please post those so others will know what to look for. What models of Mercedes did the eBay listing say it fit? Sunroof or moonroof?
What did you have to change on the coupler to make it fit?
Inquiring minds want to know :>)
(and pics would be nice, for example the pics used for the eBay listing).
I installed a vacuum cruise unit on two Avanti's ('66 and '71) many years ago, made by the common aftermarket supplier at that time (I'm having a senior moment, can't remember the name, probably "Dana"... they were vacuum units with a magnet sensor on the driveshaft). I agree with Bob that the choice today is probably a Rostra unit, coupled with a column switch that GM used back then (junkyard item or buy a similar switch):
http://www.rostra.co...l-by-rostra.php (but expensive)
A new switch very similar to the old GM switch is available here:
A real problem today seems to be the availability of the old vacuum bellows units, anything older than mid 1980's (the simple ones without all the electronic connections, just an air tube connector)... nobody seems to be reproducing them.
Looks like a beauty!
I especially like the fuses on the firewall, sure beats trying to troubleshoot problems while on your back under the dash.
I thought I was being clear, but apparently not... I assumed you were looking for the power window mechanism, and if you couldn't find those parts, you were willing to buy an entire door, from which you would remove the window lift mechanism for use in your own door. I guess I misunderstood.
The discussion of door locks is interesting and potentially useful info, but doesn't answer the question of whether the window mechanics are different.
Thanks for the reply.
In Kramerdad1's case, he was interested only in the power window mechanics, I wonder if those changed, too.
(I know the window motors for original Avanti's and my '71 are getting hard to find).
It would be nice to know the differences, but I'm not about to take two doors apart to find out! :>)
its a 63 door, wont fit an '80
I've previously owned a '63 Avanti and about 5 other Avanti II's of various years and never noticed a difference,
though I haven't examined them closely or tried to interchange them. I currently own a '71 and an '80.
My understanding was that Altman simply shimmed the front end to raise it, and filled in a few inches above the
front wheel openings, but not that the doors or any other panels were changed (except for trim holes).
Is it only the window mechanism that was changed? Where can I find out more?
Do you know what year the doors were changed?
There's a door on eBay: http://tinyurl.com/cqeph5q
I think there were some window mechanisms on eBay about a month back, dunno if they sold.
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted · Edited by WayneC
You can resize a photo with nearly any photo editing program, or...
To resize photos I use 2 programs:
PixResizer (can do 1 pic, or a folder full all at once, but doesn't handle drag & drop to it's logo)
Fast Image Resizer (drag & drop your photo onto it)