Jump to content

WayneC

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    527
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by WayneC

  1. I would suspect the air cleaner... check to make sure there is a gasket between the air horn and the air cleaner, and that the air cleaner base is flat (no dings/distortions). And check the vacuum hose to the transmission.

  2. You didn't say what problem/issue you are trying to resolve. Generally, the best approach is to verify that the carburetor has the factory stock parts, all clean and in good working order, set to Holley factory specs, with a fresh fuel filter. Once it's running smoothly, then go from there if you're not happy with those settings and are trying to tune for a specific condition/environment.

    Can't help you directly, but here is a link to a Corvette forum search on the 3367, which should be interesting to read (includes recommendations for rebuilders if you don't feel up to that task):

    http://forums.corvet...archid=35342645

    Here's some hits I found on Google:

    http://v8tvshow.com/...nt/view/110/28/

    http://www.junkyardg...ley/tune01.html

    http://www.nastyz28..../tech/htune.pdf

    I assume your '66 would be running AC 45 spark plugs, which probably aren't easy to find these days; here is a link to some currently on eBay:

    http://tinyurl.com/ccmy76j

    Don't settle for something that just has "45" as part of the number, except that R45 can be used if you aren't using resistor spark plug wires.

    If the spark plug electrodes are clean when inspected after a run, gapped correctly, and the wires are in good shape and snug, there should be no need for fancy (expensive) spark plugs.

    http://tinyurl.com/cr4bsq3

  3. I must admit I own earlier Avanti II's and haven't looked closely at the trunk latch setup on my '80, which uses a solenoid to unlatch the trunklid. I usually lurk on the 66-83 Avanti II forum, but occasionally I peruse this forum, so please forgive my uninformed question:

    Looks like a good idea, but where do you run the cable, ie, is this the same as original (for what year?), where does it attach at the ends and how do you get to the cable to pull it when needed?

    Thanks,

    Wayne

  4. Here's a photo of the bottom of the battery box on my '71 Avanti (modified by me to add a round rubber support bumper)

    http://i1032.photobucket.com/albums/a408/waynecpb/71%20Avanti/71Avantibatterybox_zpsb4cca794.jpg

    And a photo of the bottom of my '80 Avanti, which is different (has a better support, which I believe to be as-built by the factory)

    http://i1032.photobucket.com/albums/a408/waynecpb/71%20Avanti/81Avantibatterybox_zps163628aa.jpg

  5. Well, battery tray or no battery tray, you have the problem finessing the battery. Use a mechanics fender protector to try to avoid the scrapes. Removing the radiator reservoir and its connecting hoses gives you more room for a straight shot for the battery, but it's not easy removing those items, either.

  6. I can't answer your question directly, but spring rate can be calculated based on the steel thickness, coil diameter, number of coils, free coils, and free height. You need someone with some expertise to input correct data...

    http://www.gtthunder.../coilsprate.htm

    http://www.pontiacra...spring_rate.htm

    Since the Stude spring is of uniform coil and wire diameter, it should be easy to calculate.

    Spring rate for a free spring and the spring rate as installed in the A-arms are different animals, when you want the rate that the car actually feels, you need to get into precise A-arm measurements.

    There are companies that can make springs to whatever specification you want, and can probably plug the info about your present springs into their computer program to calculate the current spring rate and determine how to produce the rate you'd like, or suggest specs based on your desires. for example:

    http://www.coilsprin...om/classic.aspx

    http://www.eatonsprings.com/studebaker.htm

    Changing the rate can lead to other issues, such as how the car sits at rest, whether it bottoms-out on bumps, what shocks are needed, how the car is driven, etc. Probably as much art as science.

  7. I have a plug socket with a hex outer shape at the ratchet end... haven't done plugs for a long time, but I know I used a box wrench with that socket to get #7 plug from beneath the car. A ratcheting box wrench would probably come in handy with that same socket.

    I also was able to get several plugs through the wheel wells (using a ratchet with a long extension inserted between the upper A-arm and the fender, wheel removed).

  8. My opinion:

    I believe the rear crossmember is there to support the spare tire, which otherwise might vibrate the fiberglass well it's sitting in (or the surrounding floor) enough to eventually break the fiberglass (through fatigue), or without that support the trunk floor may sag if it is loaded with luggage or whatever.

    I'm not sure about the hog troughs, I don't know enough about how they are fastened (I've never replaced any), and I generally bow to Dan's expertise... but I suspect they may be there to add structural strength to the body.

    In 63-67 Corvettes (coupes, especially), there is a stamped sheetmetal "birdcage" that acts as a dimensional stabilizer and strengthener to the fiberglass panels; the sheetmetal cage supports the dash and door hinges, runs around the windshield, doors, etc, and is welded together as a framework first, to which the fiberglass is bonded as the body is built-up in jigs. I've never seen an Avanti that's had all the fiberglass burned away, and any such metal "birdcage" (or "roll cage") structure pieces are not shown in the parts manual because they aren't considered field-replaceable parts. I know that on Corvettes, the birdcage is prone to serious rusting if the windshield seal has been leaking (usually at the base of the door hinge pillars where they meet the door sill frame mount area, and around the door hinge mounts, the base of the windshield frame, etc)... it is near impossible to find a used birdcage in serviceable condition, and even if one can be located, it is a prohibitive amount of work to replace large sections of birdcage, and then repair the fiberglass bonded to the birdcage; serious corrosion damage to the birdcage in multiple areas is considered fatal in most cases, requiring a salvaged donor body.

    By the way, although I'm not positive, I don't think Dan Booth worked at Studebaker, which was based in South Bend IN. He's lived in SE Michigan at least since the early 70's when I first knew him (probably has all his life). He ran a small auto repair business back then (first with a partner, then on his own), personally owned Avantis, and was the go-to guy for Avanti repairs in the greater Detroit metro area. He later became a dealer, too, selling new and used Avanti's. In the mid-80s Kelly decided to stop supporting older ('84 and prior) Avanti's, and also decided to sell new Avanti's only through established US car major-brand dealerships (which meant Dan's Avanti dealership days were over). In financial trouble, Kelly also decided to sell off all his parts stock specific to Stude-chassis models (1984 and earlier)... Dan bought that parts inventory, and opened his current location of Nostalgic Motors in Wixom MI.

  9. That was helpful, thanks!

    Just out of curiosity, was the 12v electrical connector the same, too?

    To post a picture, you may need an account at a host location, like Photobucket.

    Then you upload photos to an album in your Photobucket account. When you view the photo you placed in the Photobucket account, they give you "image links" to the right of your photo and if you click one of those (like "direct link") it pastes the link in your notepad so you can then use a right-click "paste" to place that link in your posting here.... I'll try that now:

    http://i1032.photobu...zpsf362c7c2.jpg ...the reader clicks the url to go see the post

    Alternately, you can attach a photo (or photos) to your post, in which case the reader clicks the attachment link to see the photo(s)... that's done by clicking on "More Reply Options" and then on "Choose Files" button below the posting area and navigating to each photo on your computer you wish to include in the attachment.

    Or, you can place a photo inline in your text by clicking on the icon that is a frame with a green picture, and placing the url of the photo you stored at your photo-hosting site (photobucket) into the reply field, which puts the photo inline with your text.

    So, 3 different approaches that I'm aware of:

    1. put a link to your photo (at a photo-hosting service) into your text. Reader clicks the url link.

    2. add an attachment containing photo(s) to your post (uploaded to AOAI directly from your computer

    and you are limited to 500kb total size of photos). Reader clicks the attachment link.

    3. place photos inline with your text (said photos must be resident on a photo-hosting service);

    pictures appear in your text.

  10. Well, that's a little more info, thanks, but I suspect some folks are like me, I sometimes squirrel away rare spare parts, if I find them at a bargain price, with the expectation that someday they'll be needed and may not be readily available. I don't know what Avanti sun or moon roof motors look like. I did peruse eBay listings for Mercedes motors, which differed wildly from each other. I certainly won't be tearing my roof liner apart to find out what the motor looks like unless/until I actually need to do so. I was hoping you might post a photo or a link to an eBay listing that has that particular motor pictured very clearly so as to be easily identifiable. Even when I don't intend buying parts in advance, I save articles about repairs in Word documents, with pictures, for my future reference in case I DO need the information.

  11. If there were any markings on the motor you found (part numbers), please post those so others will know what to look for. What models of Mercedes did the eBay listing say it fit? Sunroof or moonroof?

    What did you have to change on the coupler to make it fit?

    Inquiring minds want to know :>)

    (and pics would be nice, for example the pics used for the eBay listing).

  12. I installed a vacuum cruise unit on two Avanti's ('66 and '71) many years ago, made by the common aftermarket supplier at that time (I'm having a senior moment, can't remember the name, probably "Dana"... they were vacuum units with a magnet sensor on the driveshaft). I agree with Bob that the choice today is probably a Rostra unit, coupled with a column switch that GM used back then (junkyard item or buy a similar switch):

    http://www.ebay.com/...0618665&vxp=mtr

    http://www.rostra.co...l-by-rostra.php (but expensive)

    A new switch very similar to the old GM switch is available here:

    http://www.thecruise...3/0018/250-3032

    A real problem today seems to be the availability of the old vacuum bellows units, anything older than mid 1980's (the simple ones without all the electronic connections, just an air tube connector)... nobody seems to be reproducing them.

  13. I thought I was being clear, but apparently not... I assumed you were looking for the power window mechanism, and if you couldn't find those parts, you were willing to buy an entire door, from which you would remove the window lift mechanism for use in your own door. I guess I misunderstood.

    The discussion of door locks is interesting and potentially useful info, but doesn't answer the question of whether the window mechanics are different.

  14. Thanks for the reply.

    In Kramerdad1's case, he was interested only in the power window mechanics, I wonder if those changed, too.

    (I know the window motors for original Avanti's and my '71 are getting hard to find).

    It would be nice to know the differences, but I'm not about to take two doors apart to find out! :>)

  15. its a 63 door, wont fit an '80

    I've previously owned a '63 Avanti and about 5 other Avanti II's of various years and never noticed a difference,

    though I haven't examined them closely or tried to interchange them. I currently own a '71 and an '80.

    My understanding was that Altman simply shimmed the front end to raise it, and filled in a few inches above the

    front wheel openings, but not that the doors or any other panels were changed (except for trim holes).

    Is it only the window mechanism that was changed? Where can I find out more?

    Do you know what year the doors were changed?

  16. Most, if not all, systems won't go into closed loop until the engine reaches a preset temperature. Whether it's 195 degrees for you I don't know, but they will run rich until warmed up to that predetermined temp.

    I'm not familiar with this particular application, but the computer needs input as to engine coolant temperature, so it's also possible there's a coolant sensor giving bad (low) readings. Check to see if there is a coolant temperature sensor (likely on the thermostat housing) and that it has intact connecting wires at both ends of the harness. I wasn't able to find info on how to test the sensor against specs, other than this general article:

    http://www.wellsve.com/sft503/Counterpoint2_2.pdf

    My next culprit suspect would be a bad exhaust oxygen sensor.

  17. I cannot claim any familiarity with the a/c system, never worked on it, but...

    in looking at the electrical diagram, it shows a blower switch and a temperature (thermal) switch... let's call it the t/t switch

    The blower switch has a yellow wire, a black wire, and a green wire connected to it; the t/t switch is connected to the blower switch (a/c console fan) by the green wire, and it in turn connects to the compressor clutch (and to a throttle solenoid in 1977 & later models) via a brown wire.

    From the diagram I assume the blower switch has to be on before the t/t switch gets power.

    Therefore, with the blower switch on, it should be easy to check to see if the green wire to the t/t switch is getting 12v. If it is, the setting of the t/t switch probably determines how frequently the compressor clutch is activated (the t/t is probably a variable resistor switch that opens and closes the circuit when heated by 12v power). If you set the t/t switch to a high a/c setting and you never see 12v at the connection of the brown wire to the t/t switch (using a multimeter or test light to jumper to ground), then I'd suspect the t/t switch is bad. The other possibility is that the brown wire from the t/t switch to the a/c compressor clutch is broken somewhere in its path... to check that, just jumper the green and brown wire connectors at the t/t switch... the a/c compressor clutch should activate.

×
×
  • Create New...