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WayneC

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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Did you (or can you) compare the new starter to the old one? I think Chevy starters are pretty much the same; there are a few different starter nose designs that have been used. If the starter bolts to the engine and the nose of the starter snugs to the space available at the opening of the flywheel (ring gear), then chances are the issue is one of shimming the starter mount...

    Here is a link to some information on Chevy starters:

    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Noisy/grinding_GM_starter_fixes

    Here is some info I saw somewhere and squirreled away:

    Re: Starter shims

    Take the lower sheetmetal shield(s) off the flywheel, so you can see the flywheel teeth from the rear of the flywheel (in the area where the starter gear contacts it).

    Take the starter off and REMOVE the solenoid (for the moment), the battery terminal wires, and 2 sets smaller wires, plus 3 small bolts to get the rest loose.

    Remount the starter SANS solenoid.

    MANUALLY pull the little thing that sits inside the solenoid to the BACK of the starter, this pulls the starter gear into the flywheel.

    Proper clearance requires BOTH of the following:

    the bendix teeth should stick through the flywheel teeth, AND, between the TOP of the bendix tooth and the valley of the flywheel tooth, there should be a space NO BIGGER than a straightened out paper clip wire. If there is NO space (the starter gear cannot be extended enough to fully engage the flywheel/ring gear), you need to add a shim or two and retry the paper clip test.

    If there is a LOT of space (much more than the paper clip wire) and there are no shims currently in place that you can remove, you need a new starter NOSE.

  2. Obviously your main concern is finding a good alignment shop that is experienced with kingpin suspensions. You might see if you can find a local old car club or a restoration shop and ask where they get old (40's and early 50's) Chevy's aligned.

    I'm not certain where I got this specification information, I saved it some years ago; copied here verbatim...

    Avanti 1963 - 1985 Wheel Alignment specs

    ----------------------------------

    Adjustment at TieRods-

    Toe-in: 3/16 to 1/4 inch. (This spec is for bias ply tires.

    If you are using radial ply, then 1/16 to 1/8 inch) I've used almost '0' with radials for a long time, but you have to have very good tie rod ends to accommodate this or else you feel a kind of 'wander'.

    Adjustment at Kingpins, upper outer pin-

    Caster: (See Note 1) -3/4 degree to +3/4 degree (0' preferred)

    (Negative caster will augment the 'shopping cart' wobble possibility

    if your tierods are worn). Regardless of the 'Spec", which was really for ease of steering the heavy front end of Studebaker cars, it's worth your effort to get as much positive caster as possible.

    Positive caster enhances your car's centering ability when you are recovering from a turn. With positive caster, the front of the car is lifted when you turn the steering wheel. Letting go of the wheel allows the car to settle and will spin the steering wheel in your hands. The more positive caster, the more centering ability… but the car will seem harder to turn.

    Adjustment at Kingpins, upper outer pin-

    Camber: 0 to 1 degree, with +1/2 degree more on drivers side

    (Camber can be a problem on older cars. The upper inner control arm pin has an offset mount. It is usually installed with the offset toward the inside of the car, allowing an extra 2 degrees of camber. Check this if you can't get the camber correct. There is also a possibility that the bolts holding the upper inner pin in place have elongated the holes in the frame from being loose at one time. This will result in the arm being pulled outward, creating a POSITIVE camber (Leaning out at top) situation. You can have large washers welded in place to correct the positioning to get it back in line.

    On the opposite side of the problem, if you have too much negative camber, (leaning in at the top) then in addition to the above, consider that the main crossmember is sagging or may be cracked. Look for cracks around the upper cup holding the spring in the frame pocket or along the top around the engine mounts. This is not unheard of, given the weight of the Studebaker engine. If this is the case and repair is undertaken, be sure the mechanic suspends the front of the car by the center of the crossmember before welding. This will spread the crossmember back closer to spec and give the needed position of the control arms.

  3. wiring diag for fusebox 76, trunk button dosent work

    I have a set of diagrams that show what appears to be 2 near-identical fuse boxes side by side.

    The trunk release is a 20 amp fuse at the lower left of the right-side fusebox (there's a hazard blinker at the top left of that fusebox,

    a 10 amp fuse above the 20 amp fuse you are looking for, and a 20 amp fuse to it's right).

    The cigar lighter, ignition key buzzer, console lights, trunk light, glove compartment light, and dome lights are on the same fuse as the trunk release.

    It shows black wires from the fusebox to all of the above, including the trunk release switch in the glovebox,

    and a blue wire between the trunk release switch and the trunk release solenoid, with a white wire from the trunk solenoid to ground.

  4. What in the world possesses a body shop to go ahead and paint a car knowing the color is not the color the customer specified? Seems like they are just throwing away their time and money. I once had a shop install a convertible top that was an incorrect color, even though they thought the color choice was very strange (the shop had also just painted the car and the installer missed the fact that the label on the top that arrived with my order number on it didn't match my order; he installed a green top on a blue car). One would think that if they spot something that looks amiss they would at least pick up a phone and call the vehicle owner.

    Hope they covered the expense of their mistake for you; in my case luckily I had ordered through the installer, so the company that sold me the top re-sent the correct one and paid for the re-install, probably because they knew the installer would stop recommending them to future customers if they tried to stick him with the bill.

  5. What is the cross reference or parts guide to replace the pads, rotors, and hub bearings on the front assembles on my 75.

    Many thanks

    Joe

    Those parts are all the same as Stude Avanti's, assuming your car never had a brake conversion to a Mustang setup.

    SFAIK, the Stude rotors are unique, with reproductions sold only by Avanti parts dealers.

    Studebaker International Inc has them listed at $200 each.

    These numbers may be obsolete, I'm getting them off old lists:

    bearings: Timken LM67048 & LM67010 inners, Timken LM11949 & LM11910 outers

    pads: NAPA S702, Ferodo DDB704, Mintex GDB704, Bendix 702-D28, Wagner 702 EIS B-502-D26

    Pads & bearings are also available through Avanti parts dealers, and I'd urge you to buy from them, in order to support the hobby and ensure future parts availability. :)

    I hesitate to list dealers here, because I'm likely to forget to include some; Here's a list that includes some Avanti parts dealers;

    http://www.studebakervendors.com/

    ...or better yet, join the AOAI and find their ads in the Avanti Magazine.

  6. it appears that the front vent window weatherstrip channel must be removed by drilling out the rivets to be able to get the weatherstrip in the channel. Is that correct?

    Raymons

    The Avanti workshop manual, body section, page 12, gives instructions.

    If you don't already have the manual, you need to get one. ;)

  7. Hi Ray, the 3M grey body caulking is PN 8547, original number, if you can find it. My personal experience with silicone caulk is not good, tends to stain, not be appropriate for applications where there is movement or vibration.

    I located a partial old box of the NAPA 414 grey rope caulk in its original cardboard NAPA package in my garage, with the words Martin Seynour on the box. Couldn't find it for sale on the internet from either NAPA or Martin Seynour, but I did find this reference:

    http://www.martinsenour-autopaint.com/pds/martin/english/9519.pdf

    Chances are that I've had it for 15 years or so, I'm pretty sure I bought it at an auto supply store, though I don't think it was a NAPA store.

    Here's an article describing using the 3M black rope caulk to seal a removed Mustang side window:

    http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_0911_how_to_restore_weatherstrip/index.html

  8. The problem has been finding the grey 3M stuff.

    I just did a search and now I understand your problem finding it... 3M used to make that stuff in grey, but apparently they don't anymore. I even found reference to it, but nobody seems to be selling it.

    All is not lost, try this link:

    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNODSQ/ref=asc_df_B000LNODSQ1793550?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=nextagus0039202-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395093&creativeASIN=B000LNODSQ

    or these:

    http://www.lowes.com/pd_96338-1410-P24H_?PL=1&productId=1114771

    http://tinyurl.com/7n32rgq

    http://tinyurl.com/73wdqwn

    http://tinyurl.com/85l3ptd

    http://tinyurl.com/73vl9fz

    You might even try your local plumbing supply, or Ace Hardware (plumbing section).

  9. This is for AOAI member "Michael" re window sweeps as posted Oct 3. After learning far more than I was intereested in knowing about Avanti window sweeps, I finally came up with a pair for my 89 convertible. Let me know if you are still looking. Ken, Deltaville, Va

    Why not post your info so more people than just "Michael" can benefit? :blink:

  10. Now I was always under the impression that the 1987 convertible had a different top than both the 1988 and 1989 so I am concern that I might end up with the wrong top. Has anyone every purchase a 1987 top from this vendor or other vendor

    I don't own an '87 convert, but that was my impression as well. Why not email the guy to see if the '87 top he carries is different from the '88 & '89. Chances are the top mechanism may actually be from some other car manufactured in the early 70's, like a Chevy Camaro or Chrysler. Too bad there aren't folks on these forums who used to work at Avanti Motors and could answer questions like this one.

    My guess is that a good upholstery shop might be able to make one from the pattern afforded by your old one after it's removed.

  11. What you can do to add photos is to use an online site like Photobucket (there are others), make an account and upload your photos there. Then when you want to post something here you can use the "Insert Image" link to post your pics.

    Yeah, I guess, but Photobucket won't host your pictures forever, eventually they go away (in fact, I had an account in Photobucket, and IT went away, so I just now created a new one). Not sure when or how long ago I used up my upload "quota" on this site, or why the old uploads didn't go away, too. :(

    Thanks for enlightening me.

    '66 Avanti surge tank

  12. My '70 originally came with one...I'm not sure when they actually stopped using them.

    They did stop using the original brass Stude-style tank (with side outlet & hose to the thermostat housing rather than bottom outlet)... my '71 has that setup, as did a '66 I owned. They later used a then-commonly-available aftermarket kit, a near-square milk-color plastic overflow tank mounted in the right front corner of the engine compartment using a wire-frame support bracket. A small-diameter hose (3/8ths?) runs across the top of the radiator support to the overflow tank.

    I think my '80 has the newer setup... too late to go out in the dark to look, but I'd be glad to take photos later if anybody requests them.

    I'm attaching a pic of the '66 tank

  13. There would also be a capacitive ignition box mounted forward on the inner panel on the passenger side of the engine bay. My '70 was equipped that way when I purchased it. It was made by Delco but I have no idea if GM installed that particular system on any of its own production. GM installed many of their K66 transistorized ignitions on many of their high performance engines and was optional on other cars.

    If my '71 came with that, I think I'd remember it, because I was aware of the K66 setup installed as an option on '64 to '71 Hi Perf Corvettes... I once bought some of the parts for that Corvette system at a swap meet back in the mid-70's, including the finned cast aluminum amplifier box that mounts on the inner fender; but I never installed it, rather I sold it to a mid-year Vette owner whose amplifier had failed. That amplifier tended to be a problem part (as the equivalent part seems to be on aftermarket transistorized ignitions like Accel), so it's possible the previous owner of my '71 reverted to the basic points system.

    Here's a vendor on the internet that still services K66:

    http://www.tispecialty.com/amplifiers.htm (sells parts, but $$$$)

    http://www.tispecialty.com/services.htm (photo of the fender-mounted amplifier)

    http://www.tispecialty.com/coils.htm (sells the coil)

    Another vendor on the internet that sells replacement parts for K66 (coil, circuit board):

    http://www.lectriclimited.com/shopping_cart/ff_catalog.asp?id=676501993

  14. Hate to admit, but I've owned my '71 so long that I can't remember what ignition it originally had, but I do not recall it having an old-style transistorized ignition... I changed out the engine for an '84 Vette engine in the early 80's. I also once owned a '66 Avanti that I converted to a later engine and an HEI ignition back in the late 70's.

    I may be mistaken, but I think the '71 came with the old points-style distributor and separate cylindrical coil.

    If that's the case, then maybe the following info would help you find a coil...

    Delco lists the 1971 Corvette coil (shown as the old style cylindrical coil) as

    "COIL ASM,IGN Part Number: E555"

    Or, you could check junkyards for Chevy V8 cars of about 1971 vintage for a used coil.

    Or maybe your parts suppliers can find cross-references to these coils listed by NAPA:

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=ECHIC1600_0166500374&An=0+599001+101971+50012+2012030&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_7355274_0298616150&An=0+599001+101971+50012+2012030&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_7355273_0298616149&An=0+599001+101971+50012+2012030&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?A=BK_7357250_0326350345&An=0+599001+101971+50012+2012030&Ar=AND%28P_RecType%3aA%29

    Or, of course, you could consider swapping in a later HEI distributor from a mid-to-late 70's Chevy V8...

    you'd also need to replace the spark plug wires with 8mm or 7mm, along with their support guides, and run a non-resistor wire to the distributor (to replace the current pink resistor wire); if you acquire the setup from a junkyard, also clip the connectors for the 12v power and the tachometer from the wreck to use to attach your wires to the HEI.

    Corvette-style ignition shielding may be needed if AM radio reception is important to you.

    Lastly, you could probably order from a US Corvette parts vendor (assuming they'll ship to Australia), such as this one: http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/COIL.pdf

  15. Hi all. I am not happy with the quadrajet on my '71 350ci Avanti Automatic. Anyone suggest a modern replacement carb to suit?

    Thanks in advance

    Dave... :rolleyes:

    Why are you unhappy with your quadrajet?

    I'd echo what Gunslinger said, for driveability and fuel economy in a 4-barrel, it's probably impossible to beat a Rochester quadrajet. Some say an Edelbrock quadrajet-clone is better, that they improved a few things in the design, but I've never owned one and I'm always suspect that a generalized clone can best a carburetor that was tweaked to the exact year Chevy engine and vehicle, on dynamometers and at the GM proving grounds, by Chevy and Rochester experts, just before the car was first sold.

    BTW, I think Gunslinger may have given you the wrong Edelbrock carb number, the small block takes a 1901, not a 1906.

    - http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/1000/1901.pdf

    Here is a rebuilder that has troubleshooting tips on their website, under the philosophy that not all "carburetor issues" require a carb rebuild...

    - http://www.recarbco.com/technical/

    I believe this was the outfit that rebuilt my own '71 quadrajet a few years back, I can check for certain by searching old files, but I realize you are in Australia and will probably want someone closer. They do say they sell rebuilt carbs outright, but apparently you'll need to email them to find out if they can supply one for your application (here's how to identify your carburetor: http://www.recarbco.com/technical/rochester/qjet.html )

    You haven't said whether a carb rebuild is a project you'd undertake yourself; I've owned a lot of Chevy's over the years and done a number of rebuilds, but in the distant past, and I'd be out of my depth if the carb needed new butterfly valve bushings, or any other sort of machining, in fact I probably wouldn't even recognize the need for it... I've only done parts replacement, cleaning, adjustments, and played with jet sizes.

    Here's a couple of related articles of interest I bookmarked at some point...

    - http://www.carcraft.com/howto/57178/index.html

    - http://quadrajetcarburetors.com/

    - http://quadrajetcarburetors.com/bushingkitinstructions.html

  16. This is more of a suggestion, because its been some years since I've done it, but I think I gently slid a clean wide putty knife beneath the end of the cover to protect the upholstery and then squeezed a sharp screwdriver (or a narrow putty knife with a chisel edge) between the putty knife and the chrome cover to gently lever it free.

  17. I vaguely recall having that issue about 25 years ago, probably on my '71.

    I think I bought a "correct" flexplate from Nostalgic Motor Cars.

    Actually, my recollection is that the one I bought was sloppily done,

    the converter holes apparently done with a hand drill by employees of the

    Avanti Motor Company, but it did work fine (that steel is hard,

    very difficult to drill).

    But I agree with Devildog that if you can find a flexplate with the correct

    crankshaft bolt pattern, diameter, and number of teeth, then a good

    machinist should be able to drill the correct torque converter bolt holes for you

    (since you have the old one to use as a pattern it should be easy).

    I expect the machining would easily be within the 1-hour minimum most machinists

    would charge for their work.

  18. Hi all, I am after the clear plastic name plate? I think it may be called, and best I can work out may be part No 1358767 to fit my 1971 Avanti 11.

    I have looked on Studebaker International site but cant see one listed. Anybody got one to sell to me?

    Thanks in advance.

    Dave.

    You might try Nostalgic Motor Cars or Myers, but it seems to me that those "plates"

    (the plastic bezel for the switches mounted over the windshield) are unobtainium...

    most cracked over time and I think the supply of spares has been used up.

    I'm pretty sure that part is the same on your '71 as the original Avanti. I cannot remember one being offered for sale in years.

    Seems like it would be a fairly simple part for someone so inclined to have reproduced to sell, but AFAIK no one has.

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