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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. I thought I was being clear, but apparently not... I assumed you were looking for the power window mechanism, and if you couldn't find those parts, you were willing to buy an entire door, from which you would remove the window lift mechanism for use in your own door. I guess I misunderstood.

    The discussion of door locks is interesting and potentially useful info, but doesn't answer the question of whether the window mechanics are different.

  2. Thanks for the reply.

    In Kramerdad1's case, he was interested only in the power window mechanics, I wonder if those changed, too.

    (I know the window motors for original Avanti's and my '71 are getting hard to find).

    It would be nice to know the differences, but I'm not about to take two doors apart to find out! :>)

  3. its a 63 door, wont fit an '80

    I've previously owned a '63 Avanti and about 5 other Avanti II's of various years and never noticed a difference,

    though I haven't examined them closely or tried to interchange them. I currently own a '71 and an '80.

    My understanding was that Altman simply shimmed the front end to raise it, and filled in a few inches above the

    front wheel openings, but not that the doors or any other panels were changed (except for trim holes).

    Is it only the window mechanism that was changed? Where can I find out more?

    Do you know what year the doors were changed?

  4. Most, if not all, systems won't go into closed loop until the engine reaches a preset temperature. Whether it's 195 degrees for you I don't know, but they will run rich until warmed up to that predetermined temp.

    I'm not familiar with this particular application, but the computer needs input as to engine coolant temperature, so it's also possible there's a coolant sensor giving bad (low) readings. Check to see if there is a coolant temperature sensor (likely on the thermostat housing) and that it has intact connecting wires at both ends of the harness. I wasn't able to find info on how to test the sensor against specs, other than this general article:


    My next culprit suspect would be a bad exhaust oxygen sensor.

  5. I cannot claim any familiarity with the a/c system, never worked on it, but...

    in looking at the electrical diagram, it shows a blower switch and a temperature (thermal) switch... let's call it the t/t switch

    The blower switch has a yellow wire, a black wire, and a green wire connected to it; the t/t switch is connected to the blower switch (a/c console fan) by the green wire, and it in turn connects to the compressor clutch (and to a throttle solenoid in 1977 & later models) via a brown wire.

    From the diagram I assume the blower switch has to be on before the t/t switch gets power.

    Therefore, with the blower switch on, it should be easy to check to see if the green wire to the t/t switch is getting 12v. If it is, the setting of the t/t switch probably determines how frequently the compressor clutch is activated (the t/t is probably a variable resistor switch that opens and closes the circuit when heated by 12v power). If you set the t/t switch to a high a/c setting and you never see 12v at the connection of the brown wire to the t/t switch (using a multimeter or test light to jumper to ground), then I'd suspect the t/t switch is bad. The other possibility is that the brown wire from the t/t switch to the a/c compressor clutch is broken somewhere in its path... to check that, just jumper the green and brown wire connectors at the t/t switch... the a/c compressor clutch should activate.

  6. Did you (or can you) compare the new starter to the old one? I think Chevy starters are pretty much the same; there are a few different starter nose designs that have been used. If the starter bolts to the engine and the nose of the starter snugs to the space available at the opening of the flywheel (ring gear), then chances are the issue is one of shimming the starter mount...

    Here is a link to some information on Chevy starters:


    Here is some info I saw somewhere and squirreled away:

    Re: Starter shims

    Take the lower sheetmetal shield(s) off the flywheel, so you can see the flywheel teeth from the rear of the flywheel (in the area where the starter gear contacts it).

    Take the starter off and REMOVE the solenoid (for the moment), the battery terminal wires, and 2 sets smaller wires, plus 3 small bolts to get the rest loose.

    Remount the starter SANS solenoid.

    MANUALLY pull the little thing that sits inside the solenoid to the BACK of the starter, this pulls the starter gear into the flywheel.

    Proper clearance requires BOTH of the following:

    the bendix teeth should stick through the flywheel teeth, AND, between the TOP of the bendix tooth and the valley of the flywheel tooth, there should be a space NO BIGGER than a straightened out paper clip wire. If there is NO space (the starter gear cannot be extended enough to fully engage the flywheel/ring gear), you need to add a shim or two and retry the paper clip test.

    If there is a LOT of space (much more than the paper clip wire) and there are no shims currently in place that you can remove, you need a new starter NOSE.

  7. Obviously your main concern is finding a good alignment shop that is experienced with kingpin suspensions. You might see if you can find a local old car club or a restoration shop and ask where they get old (40's and early 50's) Chevy's aligned.

    I'm not certain where I got this specification information, I saved it some years ago; copied here verbatim...

    Avanti 1963 - 1985 Wheel Alignment specs


    Adjustment at TieRods-

    Toe-in: 3/16 to 1/4 inch. (This spec is for bias ply tires.

    If you are using radial ply, then 1/16 to 1/8 inch) I've used almost '0' with radials for a long time, but you have to have very good tie rod ends to accommodate this or else you feel a kind of 'wander'.

    Adjustment at Kingpins, upper outer pin-

    Caster: (See Note 1) -3/4 degree to +3/4 degree (0' preferred)

    (Negative caster will augment the 'shopping cart' wobble possibility

    if your tierods are worn). Regardless of the 'Spec", which was really for ease of steering the heavy front end of Studebaker cars, it's worth your effort to get as much positive caster as possible.

    Positive caster enhances your car's centering ability when you are recovering from a turn. With positive caster, the front of the car is lifted when you turn the steering wheel. Letting go of the wheel allows the car to settle and will spin the steering wheel in your hands. The more positive caster, the more centering ability… but the car will seem harder to turn.

    Adjustment at Kingpins, upper outer pin-

    Camber: 0 to 1 degree, with +1/2 degree more on drivers side

    (Camber can be a problem on older cars. The upper inner control arm pin has an offset mount. It is usually installed with the offset toward the inside of the car, allowing an extra 2 degrees of camber. Check this if you can't get the camber correct. There is also a possibility that the bolts holding the upper inner pin in place have elongated the holes in the frame from being loose at one time. This will result in the arm being pulled outward, creating a POSITIVE camber (Leaning out at top) situation. You can have large washers welded in place to correct the positioning to get it back in line.

    On the opposite side of the problem, if you have too much negative camber, (leaning in at the top) then in addition to the above, consider that the main crossmember is sagging or may be cracked. Look for cracks around the upper cup holding the spring in the frame pocket or along the top around the engine mounts. This is not unheard of, given the weight of the Studebaker engine. If this is the case and repair is undertaken, be sure the mechanic suspends the front of the car by the center of the crossmember before welding. This will spread the crossmember back closer to spec and give the needed position of the control arms.

  8. wiring diag for fusebox 76, trunk button dosent work

    I have a set of diagrams that show what appears to be 2 near-identical fuse boxes side by side.

    The trunk release is a 20 amp fuse at the lower left of the right-side fusebox (there's a hazard blinker at the top left of that fusebox,

    a 10 amp fuse above the 20 amp fuse you are looking for, and a 20 amp fuse to it's right).

    The cigar lighter, ignition key buzzer, console lights, trunk light, glove compartment light, and dome lights are on the same fuse as the trunk release.

    It shows black wires from the fusebox to all of the above, including the trunk release switch in the glovebox,

    and a blue wire between the trunk release switch and the trunk release solenoid, with a white wire from the trunk solenoid to ground.

  9. What in the world possesses a body shop to go ahead and paint a car knowing the color is not the color the customer specified? Seems like they are just throwing away their time and money. I once had a shop install a convertible top that was an incorrect color, even though they thought the color choice was very strange (the shop had also just painted the car and the installer missed the fact that the label on the top that arrived with my order number on it didn't match my order; he installed a green top on a blue car). One would think that if they spot something that looks amiss they would at least pick up a phone and call the vehicle owner.

    Hope they covered the expense of their mistake for you; in my case luckily I had ordered through the installer, so the company that sold me the top re-sent the correct one and paid for the re-install, probably because they knew the installer would stop recommending them to future customers if they tried to stick him with the bill.

  10. What is the cross reference or parts guide to replace the pads, rotors, and hub bearings on the front assembles on my 75.

    Many thanks


    Those parts are all the same as Stude Avanti's, assuming your car never had a brake conversion to a Mustang setup.

    SFAIK, the Stude rotors are unique, with reproductions sold only by Avanti parts dealers.

    Studebaker International Inc has them listed at $200 each.

    These numbers may be obsolete, I'm getting them off old lists:

    bearings: Timken LM67048 & LM67010 inners, Timken LM11949 & LM11910 outers

    pads: NAPA S702, Ferodo DDB704, Mintex GDB704, Bendix 702-D28, Wagner 702 EIS B-502-D26

    Pads & bearings are also available through Avanti parts dealers, and I'd urge you to buy from them, in order to support the hobby and ensure future parts availability. :)

    I hesitate to list dealers here, because I'm likely to forget to include some; Here's a list that includes some Avanti parts dealers;


    ...or better yet, join the AOAI and find their ads in the Avanti Magazine.

  11. it appears that the front vent window weatherstrip channel must be removed by drilling out the rivets to be able to get the weatherstrip in the channel. Is that correct?


    The Avanti workshop manual, body section, page 12, gives instructions.

    If you don't already have the manual, you need to get one. ;)

  12. Hi Ray, the 3M grey body caulking is PN 8547, original number, if you can find it. My personal experience with silicone caulk is not good, tends to stain, not be appropriate for applications where there is movement or vibration.

    I located a partial old box of the NAPA 414 grey rope caulk in its original cardboard NAPA package in my garage, with the words Martin Seynour on the box. Couldn't find it for sale on the internet from either NAPA or Martin Seynour, but I did find this reference:


    Chances are that I've had it for 15 years or so, I'm pretty sure I bought it at an auto supply store, though I don't think it was a NAPA store.

    Here's an article describing using the 3M black rope caulk to seal a removed Mustang side window:


  13. The problem has been finding the grey 3M stuff.

    I just did a search and now I understand your problem finding it... 3M used to make that stuff in grey, but apparently they don't anymore. I even found reference to it, but nobody seems to be selling it.

    All is not lost, try this link:


    or these:






    You might even try your local plumbing supply, or Ace Hardware (plumbing section).

  14. This is for AOAI member "Michael" re window sweeps as posted Oct 3. After learning far more than I was intereested in knowing about Avanti window sweeps, I finally came up with a pair for my 89 convertible. Let me know if you are still looking. Ken, Deltaville, Va

    Why not post your info so more people than just "Michael" can benefit? :blink:

  15. Now I was always under the impression that the 1987 convertible had a different top than both the 1988 and 1989 so I am concern that I might end up with the wrong top. Has anyone every purchase a 1987 top from this vendor or other vendor

    I don't own an '87 convert, but that was my impression as well. Why not email the guy to see if the '87 top he carries is different from the '88 & '89. Chances are the top mechanism may actually be from some other car manufactured in the early 70's, like a Chevy Camaro or Chrysler. Too bad there aren't folks on these forums who used to work at Avanti Motors and could answer questions like this one.

    My guess is that a good upholstery shop might be able to make one from the pattern afforded by your old one after it's removed.

  16. What you can do to add photos is to use an online site like Photobucket (there are others), make an account and upload your photos there. Then when you want to post something here you can use the "Insert Image" link to post your pics.

    Yeah, I guess, but Photobucket won't host your pictures forever, eventually they go away (in fact, I had an account in Photobucket, and IT went away, so I just now created a new one). Not sure when or how long ago I used up my upload "quota" on this site, or why the old uploads didn't go away, too. :(

    Thanks for enlightening me.

    '66 Avanti surge tank

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