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WayneC

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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Kevin, if you haven't owned an Odyssey battery before, be aware that if you ever are in a situation where the Odyssey has run down (discharged) completely, it needs to be slow-charged while wired in parallel with a normal lead/acid battery (using a pair of battery jumper cables). I didn't know that when I purchased my first Odyssey, and had a dead-battery situation about 18 months later; when my attempts to recharge it failed, I traded it in as a core to purchase a lead-acid replacement. Dooohhh, expensive lesson!!!! Found out about the parallel charging trick a year or so later (and I've always wondered if the shop where I traded it in was well-aware of that trick).

  2. Sounds like Bubba was there... but then, I've been known to emulate Bubba myself, occasionally.

    Here is a chart of battery sizes: http://www.batteryweb.com/bci.cfm

    I am using size 24; 34 will fit , maybe even better (same as 24 except 1" shorter), as will any battery very close to those outside dimensions. The tricky part is the terminal type and location on the battery, which the chart does not address fully, and the battery hold-down clamp; you need one that spans the threaded hold-down posts and still clamps the battery body, so if you depart from the 24/34 battery width you are on your own to figure out a way to clamp the battery securely in place. Battery cables can, of course, be changed-out for cables with different (ie, side-mount) terminals, but then terminal clearances and cable lengths need to be determined.

    The other issue is that the fiberglass battery box (part of the fender) is not well supported on the bottom side and that heavy battery eventually cracks the fender. Lord only knows why Avanti Motors never adequately addressed that issue (apparently they employed no engineers). I added some support shimming atop the frame beneath the battery on several of my Avanti's over the years. Others have gone so far as to fit a metal battery box from another vehicle into their Avanti, bolted to the frame. If you go Bubba, some car battery boxes are little more than trays that bolt to the frame and clamp the lower edges of the battery. There was a thread on that subject a couple of years ago, with a description of a battery box grafted-in by SBCA96 (Tom), but apparently that thread must have gotten lost when the forum changed a few years back, but it is also available here:

       http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?94019-1969-Avanti-Battery-Tray-restoration-and-upgrade

    Here is the underside of my '80 Avanti battery box, truly inadequate to the task of supporting the battery, and does not even attempt to secure the threaded rods holding the battery clamp; frankly I'm not sure if that metal support is original:

     

     

    IMGP0208 450x600.JPG

  3. Do you know if you removed/dislodged the wire clip with the tool?  It may be possible a previous owner installed the wire clip from the reverse direction and so the tool is not contacting the open ends of the clip.

     

    Can you push the upholstery panel away from the handle enough to peek behind the handle to see if the wire clip is out/retracted or at least loose? Maybe a small and a flashlight mirror will help you to see.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JvaQlh8If1s

    Alternative methods:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIGVyGDuRdI

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psYYqQhWY2o

     

  4. I don't own an '83.

    But, play with the unit... usually back then the bass/treble and left/right balance were adjusted via levers behind the knobs (knobs are normally used for on-off/volume and tuning); however, its possible the lever adjustments are for front/rear rather than left/right).

    In some radios the outer knobs had 2 positions (in and out) and when out they make different adjustments when turned (than they do when in), so gently tug/push on them to see if the shaft they are on snaps out and in (it should not take much force).

    I think some, if not many, radios had both levers behind the knobs and push/pull knobs.

    This page in the Jegs website seems to indicate the levers under the knobs are commonly used for fader/balance (in other words front/rear volume and left/right volume), but those illustrations look more like 60's radios than late 70's and 80's radios.

      https://www.jegs.com/p/RetroSound/RetroSound-Radio-Knob-Sets/3619371/10002/-1

  5. It will be a wide range, depending on what quality you want, leather (and what leather grade) or vinyl or cloth, everything (rugs, seats, dash, side panels, headliner, etc) or just the seats, professionally or you do the labor, etc, etc. $10k would not be out of line for a thorough quality professional job using leather.

    Visit a few upholstery shops for estimates, or better yet, ask around at car shows when you see an interior you like and ask who did the work.

    I had a complete Avanti interior done in leather back in 1987 (included all upholstered panels and headliner, but I'm not sure if carpeting was redone) and it cost me a bit over $3500... that's nearly $9000 in today's money, and it was a good price at the time, although in retrospect I could have chosen a more rugged leather.

    http://cars.costhelper.com/car-upholstery-repair-cost.html

    These pics were taken 20 years later (but not much mileage put on in those 20 years); the back seat is askew and paper on the floor because I was working on the fuel tank when these were taken. If I were to do it over, I think I'd find some big Mercedes Recaro buckets to replace the originals.

     

     

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  6.  

     

    I don't have one out, but I can tell you that a common replacement for the stock radio back in the 70's was the Blaupunkt Frankfurt.

    See illustration below for its dimensions (sorry, I goofed on the height, it should read 1.7 inches)

     

    Frankfurt radio annotated.jpg

  7. I perused old photos of Avant II's that I've owned, but had no good closeups of the voltage regulator, nor do I know for certain whether those regulators were original; but for what its worth, here is photo I found of one in my '71... if it matches yours, then perhaps Avanti Motors didn't use a Delco unit.

    closeup of voltage regulator.png

  8. I assume you're sure the system is not charging, and that its not the dash gauge wiring that has an issue. Did you open the regulator box to see whether there is anything obviously wrong inside it?

    Does your voltage regulator have 3 terminals, or 4, or ?

    NAPA doesn't list a regulator for a 1966 Avanti, but they do list one (row of 3 terminals) for a 1964 Avanti:

      https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHVR126

       ....Or does your old regulator look like this instead:

           https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHVR32

    I don't know for certain what Avanti Motors used in 1966, but if you have a row of 4 terminals on your regulator I'd guess one of these would work

      https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHVR142
     

     

  9. I'm not an electrical guru, but I have chased a few shorts on my various cars over the years. Getting too old to do much of that anymore.

    I assume everything was working before you took that panel apart? What was your first indication that you screwed something up? Did you see sparks or smoke? When you say you substituted the "a/c switch", did you really mean the heater switch? Actually, the headlight, instrument, and heater switches all have the same part number, so you probably eliminated the switch as the problem, assuming you (re)wired it correctly.

    Does the horn work? Do the interior lights work? Do the instrument panel lights work? Does the heater work? Are the headlights dead on both low beam and high beam? Obviously some circuits (excepting headlights and parking lights) in the headlight/tailight circuits ARE working, and the issue is probably forward of the instrument panel. So, assuming the FRONT turn signals are working,  you are looking for wiring components common to the headlights and parking lights, either positive or grounding circuits. I'm not sure, but I'm wondering if the headlight hi/low beam switch provides ground for both the headlights and the parking lights.

    The Stude Avanti shop manual (hopefully you have one) has a fold-out electrical diagram and a list of the wires called out on that diagram. Some time ago I scanned the diagram (half at a time) in hi-res,  then joined the scans. That way I can view the diagram on my 27" computer screen, enlarge parts of the diagram I need for a specific task and print those enlarged parts, then I use hi-liters to trace circuits related to the devices I'm troubleshooting. Using that method you can figure out what wires (and/or fuses and circuit breakers) are common to the headlights and parking lights (but not related to the turn signals and brake lights), see where they terminate, and try to test those paths for continuity.

    I think the power for the headlights comes through the circuit breaker at the top of the fuse panel on the firewall, to the upper left of your left knee, but I can't recall if it automatically resets.

  10. Appreciate the link, Bob....  I assume you also need to add a 150 ohm resistor to change brightness on a panel? Also, how did you address the blinker issue where LED's don't have enough resistance to activate the stock blinker unit?

    My interest is mostly academic, hopefully gleaning info for others who read your post... I converted my '71 backup lights to LED tail lights about 8 years back (using LED 1157 bulbs and sockets, and I may have added a resistor for the blinker... not certain because I think I retained the normal 1157 bulbs in the tail lights).

    I wasn't satisfied with my conversion, particularly the klutzy wiring, and would like to have even brighter lighting. The backside of the decklid has an unfinished look that I never figured out how to cover. It may be possible to run the wiring through the raised ribbing of the decklid to make things neater.

     

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  11. Thanks. Too bad SuperBrightLEDs.com has discontinued the 1156/1157 panels.

    I was looking in eBay listings and noticed a number of LED panels configured for internal car lighting, which may lend themselves to tail light applications, except that (1) they are white LED's and (2) they would need to have 1156/1157 bases added (but I'm not certain that would work with LED's that aren't meant to be tail lights, nor do I know what resistance value needs to be added to dim them)

  12. Just out of curiosity, did you use white or red LED's?

    And, how do the LED's go from normal tail light brightness to brake light brightness... a normal stoplight 1157 has 2 filaments, I think (so do only half the LEDs illuminate for tail light and then all for brake light? or is it solely the resistor that accomplishes that by somehow making the LED's glow brighter? Is the current switched to go through the resistor with the stop lights vs no resistor with normal tail light... or what?)

     

    This might be a simple yet viable choice:

     

    1157 bulb 640x346.jpeg

  13. Very interesting question that I haven't pondered nor can I recall seeing any "how-to" articles. Perhaps its been covered in Avanti Magazine.

    Don't forget to drain the fuel tank.

    I think you can purchase heavy truckers load straps at Harbor Freight.

      https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=lift+strap

    I faced that dilemma when I did a body lift in the mid 1980's on a Corvette, all alone without a lift; the recommended method on a Corvette is to invite 8 strong friends do the lifting, but I was new in town and didn't have 8 strong friends available to me, nor a tall garage. Here's my best recollection of how I did it...

    1) removed the engine/transmission and bumpers/brackets and freed all frame mounts, steering column, brake lines, electrical wires, and other attachments.

    2) lifted the body rear a few inches with floor jacks (using a 2x8 across/beneath the floor pan in front of the rear wheel frame kick-up to cushion the body from the jacks) to clear the frame enough to slide a long 4x4 across the frame rails beneath the raised body (sticking out about 2 feet on each side), then lowered the body onto the 4x4

    3) moved the jack and repeated that procedure at the front firewall, using a second 4x4 (would've been smart to use long bolts to bolt the 4x4's to the body mounts, but I wasn't smart)

    4) thereafter I lifted/jacked the body up incrementally by jacking up the 4x4's... I cannot recall whether I jacked at the center of the 4x4's or at the ends (probably the center)

    5) using scrap pieces of 2x12's as shims between the jack and the floor, I repeated the procedure numerous times, each time adding a layer of scrap 2x12's or other suitable lumber scraps beneath the jack (and beneath the ends of the 4x4's), removed the jack and did the other end, alternating raising the front & then the rear of the body just a few inches each time.

        I thought about bolting-on 4 trailer-leveling jacks (1 at each end of two 4x4's), but didn't go that route because the jacks didn't seem to have enough adjustment height

    6) when the body was high enough, I bolted metal legs for a set of "horses" (kits purchased at a lumber store) near the outer ends of the 4x4's (one 4x4 at a time), removed all the scrap shims, and let the front and rear "horses" down to just rest on the floor, added cross-braces to the horse legs so they couldn't do a split

    7) rolled the chassis out from under the rear of the raised body, and refurbished the chassis

    You might be able to do something similar except perhaps just lift the body enough with jacks to be able to build a wooden "pallet" frame in place with beams at the firewall and in front of the rear wheelwells, then box those beams with beams outside the body and possibly another "box" frame above the roof to hold connecting straps away from the body, with the lift pulling up on the upper box frame and separate straps connecting the upper frame to the lower frame.

    One thing to keep in mind... you can buy stuff on Craiglist or other places, use it, then re-sell it after the project

  14. Interesting discussion, but not quite enough info... I converted my backup lights to tail lights 3 or 4 years ago using replacement LED bulbs, but can't remember details; I like your implementations better

    Jim78, if I understand correctly, you ended up with a (pair of) double-wide panels you assembled for the backup light positions; but you then had 2 bulb bases, so:

    1) could you give urls to the arrays you purchased? (same question to Wildfeir).... I've been searching Amazon and SuperBrightLeds, but unable to find the arrays you used.

    update... I did find this one: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1156-led-bulb-36-led-pcb-lamp-ba15s-retrofit-car/501/  ($2.88? can that be right?)

     2) how did you wire the pair of bulb bases to the Avanti harness? (eg, how did you route the wiring from the Avanti harness to the backup/tail lights?)

        

    **********************************************************************

    The wiring I came up with was cumbersome, far less than ideal (unfortunately I didn't take good pics of that aspect)

     

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