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WayneC

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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. It's been too long ago for me to remember how things go together, and the shop manual isn't much help.

    Maybe if you posted some photos it would help jog some folks' minds. How much of the assembly did

    you remove... is your mechanism out of the door, or can you see and access the spring with the assembly

    still in place?

    I vaguely remember taking the entire motor/spring/actuator arm/scissors assembly out of the door to work

    on it (I had to replace the motor), but I'm not certain if the window lifting scissors came out with it.... IIRC

    I think it did, and I had wedged the (fully up) window at both ends of the door to hold it up before

    I removed the bolts from the center pivot and the motor/spring assembly, then the retainers from the

    rollers of 3 arms of the scissors mechanism to pop it free it from it's tracks, then it was a matter of

    snaking the whole assembly out of the rectangular access hole in the bottom of the door, articulating

    various arms to get one part, then the next, etc, until it was all out of the door... not an easy task.

    I guess one concept to keep in mind is that the motor needs an assist in raising the window, so I think

    the idea would be that the spring be almost fully compressed (wound) when the window is down, almost

    fully free when the window is all the way up (scissors actuator arm at the motor/spring assembly moved

    towards the rear of the door).

    It might help to take the other door panel off to see how the spring is positioned with the window fully up,

    and try to visualize the mirror image of that to picture how the opposite door spring needs to look with the

    mechanism scissors in that same position. If you spin the motor in a direction to get the scissors actuator

    arm as far towards the spring/motor assembly as possible (eg, towards the front of the door), then attach

    the spring (and you may have to pull it's end over to the mount pin, slightly compressing it), then reverse

    the electrical leads on the window motor to compress (wind) the spring to the position it was in when you

    removed the assembly.

    Hopefully someone else has a better memory than mine.

  2. Some thoughts from a non-expert...

    I own an earlier Avanti, but enjoy perusing this forum as well,

    since the cars have a lot of parts in common. What I'm not sure of, though is

    whether your 85 has a Stude frame or a GM frame.... I would think Stude,

    but I'm not certain.

    I'm not aware of any heat-resistant boots, but perhaps they exist.

    In reading your post, I wonder how much space there is between

    the center tie rod ends and the crossover pipe, because perhaps a heat shield

    might help if there's enough space for one. Here's examples of heat

    shields used by mid-60's corvettes to protect their fiberglass floor panels

    (they simply bolt onto the pipe, between the pipe and the floor they are meant to

    protect, reducing radiant heat, and allowing airflow to keep the shield cooler than the pipe):

    http://www.corvette-paragon.com/p-354256-e...at-shields.aspx (2" pipe)

    http://www.corvette-paragon.com/p-351049-e...shield-kit.aspx (2.5")

    Some trimming would be necessary, of course.

    Another possibility might be to re-route the crossover pipe slightly if there's any

    room to do that, eg, have a new pipe made up shaped slightly differently to provide

    additional clearance between the pipe and the tie rod ends.

    Try a Google search on tie rod boots... example:

    http://www.ultrarev.com/product.php?productid=45617

    http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/energy_...oots~parts.html

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductListSim...?Category=3613D

    But I don't know if they are any more resistant to heat than stock, or if they'd fit & seal.

    Or, just bite the bullet and regularly change out the stock parts, they're inexpensive and

    it's not an especially difficult job.

    Possibly a way around the issue is to go to a full dual exhaust, like earlier Avanti II's

    to eliminate the crossover pipe, but I realize that may not be feasible if you are in a state

    that has strict emissions laws and inspections; although it might be possible to use two

    catalytic converters to keep the state happy.

  3. Further info:

    I inadvertently stumbled across a couple of old posts on the Yahoo Avanti

    forum that says the tilt column is the same as used on circa '69 Camaro

    and Firebird (and probably some later years)...

    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/avanti/message/14804

    http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/avanti/message/14739

    Oops... now I notice you also recently posted on that Yahoo forum, saying your

    ignition switch is on the dash, which probably means you have a standard

    Studebaker column. Because of the cutout for the column in the instrument panel,

    you are probably limited to the Stude-style column, although you could

    change-out the panel for a later Avanti II panel to use the GM tilt column.

  4. I have a severe electrical short inside the steering column. I am wondering if anyone knows who made

    the column and internals components, are parts still available? Second half of the question, does anyone

    have a complete, fully functional tilt column for sale?

    I don't have exact knowledge, but I believe the steering column was built by GM (Saginaw Steering)

    and should be about the same as GM cars of that era; I believe other makers may have used the GM

    columns as well, like Chrysler, because at the time auto theft was becoming a serious problem and the

    locking column was devised as a deterrent, to make stealing a car more difficult than just hot-wiring it.

    Of course, enterprising and determined thieves learned to use a slide puller to overcome that deterrent,

    and repairing a theft-recovery was made more expensive because of the damage caused by the puller.

    The electrical short inside the column is most likely just frayed wire insulation, so once you get the

    column apart you will probably be able to easily correct that. In fact, are you sure the problem is inside

    the column? I think there may be a switch and/or connector attached atop the column near the firewall,

    so the issue could well be in that switch, or in the turn signal mechanism. The other end of the wires

    extending from the switch up inside the column may be accessible once the steering wheel is removed.

    You might even be able to string new wires by attaching new wire to the ends of old, and pulling the new

    wires through the column with the old wires. Complete new wiring harnesses for the column may be

    available from GM.

    But that's mostly speculation, wish I could be more helpful. Sorry, I don't have an exact reference book to

    recommend, but shop manuals for mid-70's Chevy sedans might cover removal/disassembly/reassembly

    of the column.

    I do have a part number listed for an Avanti II: 1561594X41 for whatever that's worth... it's possible

    the 7 numbers in front of the X are a GM part number, the last 3 may denote the configuration for Avanti...

    But it may be difficult finding out what that part was used for besides Avantis.

    I suspect all Avanti II (70?) up until 1984 used the same column. I once owned a 77 Chevelle that had a

    very similar column, but I never compared the two so perhaps just the upper part (tilt & lock) was the same,

    while the column itself could have been much different.

    See if your column looks something like these on eBay, to give you an idea, and pay attention to the wiring:

    http://tinyurl.com/925ov9

    http://tinyurl.com/75njh9

    http://tinyurl.com/7e8qcd

    http://tinyurl.com/9z9qf3

    http://tinyurl.com/9kr7mr

    Note the connector(s) shown in the photos.

    Some of those sellers may recondition columns as a business. Here's a rebuilder I found via Google:

    http://www.gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/services.html

    Here's a seller that has some parts:

    https://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbshopm...624&Style=2

    Here's some files that I found via Google that have diagrams, etc that might be helpful (each link downloads a file):

    http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...dr_104de07.doc

    http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...D&R226JA04.doc

    http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co..._304jl2007.doc

    http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...emblyPage1.doc

    http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...2Rev04MR03.doc

    http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...ACarBlowUp.doc

    http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-co...s&Mounting.doc

    Darn!!! ...those links don't seem to work when copied to this forum, but you can find them about halfway down the page at:

    http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2132479

    Good luck.

  5. I am still considering installing it myself, but I may quickly change my mind when the pipes come in.

    Tony

    If you don't have an overhead lift, I'd advise you to leave that job to the pro's. Doesn't cost all that much, only takes

    'em an hour or so, and they've got all the right tools to take the old stuff off and coax the new stuff to fit properly....

    tried doing an exhaust system on my back, ONCE, when I was in my 20's, never again!

    Another time I let a general-purpose shop put a new exhaust system in my Avanti (because they had the time to do it

    on the day I wanted it done, using my parts)... that same night it was rattling like crazy, falling out of the bottom of

    the car, and nearly dragging on the road; I took it to a muffler shop the next day and they uninstalled and re-installed

    every pipe while shaking their heads in disbelief. Moral: use a muffler shop.

  6. Wayne...

    FYI...Avanti II's came with the Borg Warner automatic until either late in the '70 model year or sometime in the '71 model year. My '70, a September 1970 build car, came with the B-W, as did Profaqualung's, which is an earlier '70 RQA model (mine is an RQB).

    I understand that... I once owned a '66, and a '69 with BW's... I've also owned a '63, '71, '80, and '89 over the past 35 years.

    My point was that the later cars had a GM tranny with a mechanical cable to their speedo, as did the Borg Warner Avanti's,

    so barring some gear issue within the speedo, replacing a Borg Warner with a 200R4 should only require finding a suitable

    cable and the proper tranny driven speedo gear to match his differential and tire size.

    But I have not done a tranny swap, so maybe I misunderstood his question?

  7. All suggestions will be appreciated.

    I don't see it as a serious problem, it should be just a matter of finding the correct length speedo cable and using

    the right plastic driven speedo gear in the transmission, which is easily changed, it simply slides in/out.

    After all, 70's Avanti II's came with a GM tranny and use a mechanically-driven speedo cable

    and they work fine... question is whether the internal "gearing" of your speedo is the same as those later

    Avanti II's, and I can't answer that, though I suspect it is. If you could get your hands on a later speedo you

    could hook it up to your current cable and see if it matches your current mph reading at a specific rpm in high gear

    (or vice-versa, connect your speedo in a car with a 200R4).

    Worst case, perhaps you could get a newer speedo, disassemble it, and put your old speedo face in the newer speedo

    (or farm that work out to a repair shop).

    This listing might help: http://www.montess.org/speedo_gears.html

    But that requires knowing which drive gear your 200R4 currently has, and that will be a function of the number of teeth on it...

    perhaps a tranny shop could answer that, or if you know what car it came from, perhaps a Chevy parts dealer can look up

    the part number.

    There also are variable-speed adjustable adapter boxes that can be mounted inline somewhere on the

    speedo cable route, but they are pretty expensive and comparatively bulky.

  8. Unfortunately my memory fails me, but I seem to recall that my '69 (gone some 20 years now) had plain stamped steel chromed valve covers (the type with a crease depression in the middle coming from each end and a raised rectangle in the center for a horsepower sticker, see below) and a Corvette chromed-cover air cleaner (sandwich-style, with a round black-painted base and chrome cover sandwiching an open-sided filter about 3 inches tall). Unfortunately, I can't swear to that, I can't find any pics, and I've had multiple Avanti's since that one, at least one of which (a '71) that I purposely changed to the older chrome Corvette air cleaner (it had a painted air cleaner and stamped steel painted valve covers).

    Here's the style air cleaner I think my '69 had: http://tinyurl.com/56le5q

    This is the style valve cover I think it had: http://tinyurl.com/6ysdys

    There are factory Avanti II brochures in Thomas Bonsall's "Avanti" book that show the chrome air cleaner (pages 93 and 105), and there is a photo on page 88 that shows the chrome valve covers linked above, but with a different air cleaner with a six-legged star pattern on its top (I know my '69 did NOT have THAT air cleaner)

    What did the judges tell you it SHOULD have?

  9. Hello all, Its been really nice here in north Ga. so I've been driving my 66 more than ever. My question is, have any one of you drivers of early Avantis found a sun visor from another car that can be used to replace the factory joke version? Really these sun shades have to be the poorest excuse for visors I've ever used. Thanks for any suggestions, dclewallen

    Peruse your local junkyard with dimensions in hand :>}

    Or, perhaps you could fashion an extension, like heat-molding an opaque or smokey sheet of plastic into a "J" shape and sliding it over the old visor.

  10. Here's a wild thought... if you could find a replacement speaker grill, you could consider destroying the original in an effort to remove it... start with the two screws you can reach, see if removing them gives you any wiggle-room to loosen the other two, or cut the center out of the grill to get at the second pair of screws; if you have to destroy the old grill, devise a way to remount the new one without using screws (silicone caulk, for example, or wire push-in clips, or those universal plastic fasteners used for door panels, etc that you can buy at the local parts store and which simply push in and grasp the hole).

    I've only removed the radio on cars with the grill screws, and that was long ago. IIRC, I removed the original huge Stude AM radio (in a '66 Avanti, I think) by removing the grill and slightly enlarging the dash grill opening, barely enough to wriggle the radio out, yet not removing

    any material that could be seen after the grill was in place... not easy, but do-able; the smaller replacement stereo was an easy install.

    And, are you certain there ARE 4 screws in the speaker grill? It's possible there are tabs or some other method of attachment, such that the grill is slid into place on one end, then nuts used to secure the screws on the other end.

  11. My 85 has over 100,000 miles and a couple of years ago I spent way too much money to have a oldsmobile rack and pinion steering system put in. Now it is shot and I am looking for any imput as to what to do: return to the origional or try somthing else. IMHO the origional design has endless opportunities to encourage poor steering. Looking for any constructive suggestions. Thanks Bob

    Can't you just get the Olds setup rebuilt?

  12. The exterior rubber moulding on my Moonroof 78 II is shot. Need to replace. Went thru the SI catalog but could not find. Anyone know where I can get and a part # ? Also, any tricks on how to install would be appreciated.

    Thx, Jerry

    Can't help directly, but I have a couple of suggestions...

    Try Nostalgic Motorcars at 800-avanti1 midweek (their website seems to be kaput, and I know they aren't open every day)

    If they can't help, see if you can slice a cross-section of the weatherstrip to measure, then try perusing this vendor catalog for replacement candidates: http://tinyurl.com/57vt5x

  13. I would like to know if all the small block Chevy engines installed in Avanti II's were black

    or were any ever painted Chevy orange from the factory?

    Thanks in advance for the infornmation!!

    My '71 Avanti had an orange engine. Chevy switched V8 color from the 1955 thru 1976 "chevy orange" to "corporate blue" for 1977 engines.

    If you have an eBay sign-on, use this link to look at what appears to be an original 1976 Avanti with an orange engine:

    http://tinyurl.com/6jko53

    Here's a 1977 Avanti... if you look closely, in one of the engine pics it has a (faded) blue intake manifold:

    http://tinyurl.com/6olmhj

    I'm not sure when Chevy went to black engines, but I think it was sometime around when they started using aluminum heads.

    Rebuilt engines could be whatever color the rebuilder used (assuming he wasn't "restoring" the engine to original), black being a common color.

  14. The build sheet info will be interesting. I am away from home at the moment, and will be for awhile,

    so I don't have access to my "reference library" :>)

    But, a search of the web came up with this hit that says your engine might be a replacement 307ci for a

    full-size Chevy w/automatic (or possibly a Chevelle or Malibu or Nova, which used 307's)...

    http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-codes/che...es-suffix-4.php

    13702I is simply a sequential number used for replacement/OTC engines

    That would probably not be an engine that Avanti Motors installed, which is why the

    build sheet info would be nice to have. It wouldn't be unusual for the engine of a 1971 Avanti to have

    been replaced (I have a '71, and I replaced my original engine about 20 years ago with an '84 350ci)

    Where (what location) did you get the "D101 stamp"? Are you aware that there is a raised

    casting number and casting date on the rear of the engine? They're atop the engine flange for the bellhousing...

    IIRC, casting number is on the (upper) driver side and date code on the (upper) passenger side.

    Head casting numbers and dates might give you additional clues, but you have to remove the

    valve covers to find them (center of the top of the head).

    Dan Booth may be knowledgeable on the engine codes, as he seems to know just about everything

    about these old Avanti's.

  15. I've not done it, but I seem to remember someone doing this on a Jaguar XJS, although I can't find the post.

    It might also have used the cigar lighter hole.

    My suggestion would be to convert an ashtray (insert) in some manner, such that the cup holder is affixed

    atop the ashtray itself and can be simply removed as a unit and the original ashtray replaced to bring the car back to original.

    With the right design, you could funnel any condensation down into the ashtray to keep water off the console.

    Another approach might be a cupholder design that would flip up and out of the center console glovebox between the seats,

    such that the cup holder would end up resting above the front end of the console cover when deployed, and hide inside the

    console glovebox when retracted. it could be supported by the front vertical surface of the glovebox, or fastened to

    the underside of the glovebox lid.

    If you could get hold of a spare console glovebox lid, you could simply cut a hole in it's top and use an insert cup holder,

    like this one... http://tinyurl.com/5q9atd

    Another possibility might be to design a curved thick gauge sheetmetal bracket that would attach via the same 4 screws

    as the radio speaker grill (using rubber washers to keep from damaging the grill), curve down on each side and over the

    vertical console so that the radio controls could be easily reached, then joined to cradle a cup or two... if crafted smoothly

    and polished, it could then be chromed.

    Try this search on eBay and use your imagination to figure out how some of those designs could be adapted to the Avanti,

    there are probably a lot of ways to neatly skin this cat...

    http://tinyurl.com/6rlkrn

  16. The key point for me is the city driving <snip>

    Wendell

    Karl... forgive my ignorance, but why did you change from a 200R4 to a 700R4?

    Wendell... I've been told the best thing for mileage in city driving is to always keep the tach

    under 2000 rpm, even on acceleration. Might help to shift to neutral at long signals, also.

    Or, you could install an LT1 or LS1 (for fuel injection) along with a matching automatic :>)

  17. So I have an '81 Avanti II and I need to replace the prop valve and the 2 front rubber brake hoses. I can't get ahold of Nostalgic so I'm trying to figure out what parts they really are. I found a mopar unit for the 72 Charger & several other models that LOOKS the same but I'd like to find out before I drop $100 on it. Same thing with the hoses they seem to be from a similar vehicle as in 60's/70's plymouth/dodge stuff. Any help guys?

    Nostalgic is open mon-thurs 10-4:30 eastern

    I don't have an 81, but I'll try to help... are you sure your car has a proportioning valve? I don't think my '80 has a

    proportioning valve... didn't you mean master cylinder? But, perhaps your car is different, or maybe it has

    non-original front brakes?

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/repavIIMC.html (reference for master cylinders)

    When I replaced the M/C in my '80 I had to use pipe thread adapters/reducers because the threaded holes in the

    M/C weren't the same size as the connectors on my lines. That new master cylinder was listed for a 68 full-size

    Ford, shown as #CEN 130.61028 on my receipt (doesn't mean much to me, but it might mean something to

    your parts vendor)

    I remember putting a new M/C in a '71 once, without using pipe thread adapters, and an annotation in my

    parts manual says "same as 67-69 Chrysler full-size with front discs" (couldn't find a receipt with a part number...

    possibly "NAPA 36259" which is a number also annotated in my parts book, and the NAPA number may be the

    same as the EIS "industry standard" number for brake parts).

    I have a notation for the front flex lines, which I think are the same as original Stude:

    NAPA 36614 (11146 for the rear hose)

  18. <snip>

    Anyway would appreciate any and all info on the 1980 model and thanks..Tom

    Aside from the engine, transmission, wheels, seats, upholstery, steering column, front bumper extensions, hand brake

    handle setup in the console, seatbelts, sunroof, and some switches, most parts on your 80 are the same as the original

    Studebaker Avanti (with a fender insert above each front wheel to deal with the front end sitting higher).

    The chassis is all Studebaker Avanti.

    I don't know of anyplace you can find info on the 1980 in particular. I own one myself

    (a solid low-mile driver car, but I haven't driven it much nor done much work on it since I bought it)....

    I've also owned other years (63, 66, 69, 71, and 89).

    There were no parts, shop, or owners manuals written specifically for the various Avanti II models.

    Compared to other low-production specialty cars, we're lucky to have as much info as we DO have.

    Best source of info is the original Stude shop manual and parts book, which can still be obtained

    from vendors or eBay, and of course the pertinent Chevy manuals for the engine and tranny.

    There are a couple of books on Avanti, but mostly they consist of reprints of sales brochures

    and magazine articles.

    There are several vendors who handle Avanti parts, the most comprehensive of which is Nostalgic Motor Cars

    http://www.avantiparts.net/

    (Dan Booth, the owner, is probably the most knowledgeable person you can find on the pre-84 Avanti's).

    Other vendors include Studebaker International http://www.studebaker-intl.com/ , Dave Thibeault 978-897-3158,

    Myers Studebaker http://www.myersstudebaker.com/ and SASCO http://studeparts.com/

    ...and there are specialty vendors like Silvertone Exhaust, Classic Enterprises, and Turner Brakes, among others.

    Join the Avanti Owners Assoc, they put out a nice quarterly "Avanti" magazine with helpful articles, and someone offers a CD

    that has an index to the articles that have appeared in the past issues (but I haven't heard of a CD that contains reprints

    of the issues). Most of the vendors mentioned above advertise in the Avanti Magazine.

    Here are a few useful websites:

    http://www.avantisource.com/

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/

    And this web forum, of course.

    Avanti II wheels are typical Ford/Mopar 15" wheels of the 70's, with a 5-lug 4.5" pattern and about a 3.5" to 4" backspace;

    my '80 has wire wheels (a factory option), but I'm partial to the look of the 7" wide 70's mustang-style Magnum 500 wheels myself...

    http://www.mustangfactory.net/proddetail.p...-A&cat=1341

    Here's a few more styles I like:

    http://www.newstalgiawheel.com/american_racing_wheel.asp

    http://www.coolwheels.com/product_display....FTOKEN=58118907

    What would you like to know about your 1980?

  19. Hi out there,I'm a new kid on the block here and have a question about my 1980 Avanti " SPEEDOMETER"..What a laugh . The car suppose to run 150 + MPH and I have an 85 max speedometer..What's up wiht that? Any input? and I figure the "UGLY " protrusion from under the front bumper must be the results of out ,oh so bright law makers and their idea of a 5 MPH bumper ..Anyone make any mod's on these items? I have a 0-160 mph speedometer ( from another Avanti) I'm wanting to change out . I have an auto Tx. ( 400 I'm guessing with the 350 eng.).What will be needed for the Tx. gear (to speedometer) size ie , number of teeth etc. Glad to hear from any one with solutions..Thanks..

    Well, "Hi" back at you. Are you new to Avanti's?

    I may be wrong, because my memory fails me in my later years, but I think the speedo may be limited to 85mph for the same reason you have the weird bumpers... federal law at the time (freeway speeds were 55mph, and I seem to recall that the speedos were purposely limited, and some cars even had max speed governors/limiters).

    How often do you go over 85mph? Don't worry, if you get the car up to 150mph and the tires don't blow, the highway patrol will let you know (in writing) how fast you were going :>)

    The law said 5mph bumpers, it was up to the automakers to decide how they'd do it, and Avanti Motors didn't have a huge development budget to work with (unlike Ford, Chrysler, and GM) so this was their quick fix until 1984.

    The tranny gear for the speedo cable is not related directly to the speedometer, it's related to the differential ratio and tire size, so I don't think you'll need to change the gear... here again, I may be having a senior moment, but I think I'm correct. If the new speedo is off, you can probably have a speedo repair shop adjust/calibrate it.

    Some folks have removed the front bumper extensions and camouflaged the remaining ugly holes with driving or fog lights mounted where the extensions were removed.

  20. Haven't done either, my opinion is that the painted bumper approach looks kinda cheap, but then I tend to

    be a purist when it comes to classic car exteriors; the door locks can be done inexpensively without

    removing/shaving, which would require the car (or at least the doors) to be repainted... all you need to do

    is tie motors into the same mechanisms that the inside lock knobs use...

    universal kits are available that could be adapted.

    As an example, I think the following 2 kits could be used together to accomplish the job, you just need to

    find a place on the inside door panel to securely mount the motors, fabricate some control rods or flex cables,

    and perhaps a couple of levers, then find a place to mount the receiver and run the wires to the motors.

    And you can still use the key if the battery runs down:

    http://commandoalarms.com/itm10005.htm

    http://commandoalarms.com/itm100033.htm

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