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WayneC

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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Anyway I am just learning these cars and I went to check under the tire cover but I can't get the damn cover off!!!!???? it seems there is some sort of latch but anyway I try it doesn't release the cover. Is there some trick to these things???? I would really appreciate some help, feeling really stupid.

    My recollection is that the latch is a simple over-center lever, so lifting up one end of the metal rectangular lever should free it...

    then just move the latch clear and lift & slide the cover towards you to lift it free from the car, as there are no hinges holding it in.

    But, modern tires are fatter than the ones used when the Avanti was designed, so the tire well isn't deep enough; its possible the

    prior owner forced the latch closed, so that the tire is applying a LOT of pressure to the cover and lever, holding the lever forcefully

    in the closed position. Your photo seems to confirm that.

    You should be able to tell (by inspecting the latch) which end of the rectangle to lift (the longest end, furthest end from trunk lid, most likely);

    holding pressure down very hard on the cover, near the latch, like kneeling on it, might compress the tire a tad and make it

    easier to release the latch... and/or, use something to pry the latch lever up.

    The far end of the cover (toward the passenger compartment) is just held in place by a narrow ledge it slides beneath.

    I haven't latched mine in many years, so my cover simply serves as a flat loose "mat" between the tire and whatever is in the trunk.

  2. <snip> My new problem is the brake light fuse blows when I step on the brake. If I disconnect the wire that goes from the brake light switch to the steering column at the switch, and connect my ohm meter, it shows a short to ground. If I unplug the connector by the steering column, there is no continuity to ground. Do I at this time suspect the turn signal switch in the steering column? The turn signals work fine. Any suggestions?

    Congratulations on getting it running smoothly!

    Wish I had some wisdom to give you, I just would say that you need to find a way to isolate the short to the turn signal switch, the brake light switch, or the tail light wiring (including bulbs).

    Assuming both the turn signals and the brakes use the same (bright) filament, that would rule out the bulbs and the sockets, and wiring between the turn signal switch and the bulbs.

    Unless the brake light switch is shorting... easy test, just make sure the 2 wires (disconnected from the turn signal switch) have no continuity to ground with the brake pedal depressed.

    Look for corroded contacts where those wires connect to the turn signal switch, as I suspect a poor connection could cause the fuse to blow.

    In a prior posting of yours, I mentioned the existence of some Avanti II circuit drawings that were drawn freehand and sold in booklet form some years ago. In trying to research your current problem, I found those diagrams on the internet here:

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/aec/aec.html'>http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/aec/aec.html

    And another Avanti II diagram: http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/AVACD4.JPG'>http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/AVACD4.JPG

    And I also found the 63-64 wiring diagram, although I believe the stop light setup is somewhat different

    than the later Avanti II's with GM steering columns:

    https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerparts/store/s/html/images/63-4-avanti-wire.jpg

    Bob Johnson's website: http://www.studebaker-info.org/ (where the above diagrams were found) has an amazing amount of factory technical info

    and backyard mechanic innovative solutions.

  3. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've read that wiring harnesses were put together by a lady with a drawing on a piece of plywood. So much for the chance of getting a schematic drawing.

    There was a booklet of wiring diagrams for (some of the) Avanti II add-on accessories, sold through an ad in the AOAI magazine some years back.

    It was compiled by an AOAI member and consisted of perhaps a dozen pages of circuit sketches; it would be used as a supplement to the

    Stude wiring diagram in the shop manual.

    I was not able to find it in the AOAI website bookstore just now, but perhaps this will jog someone else's memory about where that

    booklet can be purchased. Actually, I have a copy of the booklet at home, but I'm currently away on extended vacation until

    the end of September... if you don't get further info from others, try emailing me in early October and I can see if the publication

    has any contact info on it.

    The factory manual diagram may be sufficient for your needs, as the burnt portions are likely only those wires that go through the firewall,

    eg, wiring related to the engine compartment harnesses (starter, alternator, voltage regulator, ammeter, horns, coil, points, etc...

    I doubt the damage would extend to many other portions of the harness, though I'm sure that's possible. So, you may be able to use splices to replace damaged

    portions of the wiring, plus replacing any damaged devices... messy job, but it may be easier than replacing the entire harness. I once had

    to do something similar on my '71 due to a short circuit caused by the harness rubbing against the right-side hood latch; that trashed all the wiring

    under the hood, but luckily the burnt wiring stopped just short of the firewall grommet so I didn't have to work beneath the dash. But, the repairs are

    definitely noticeable/obvious.

    You might also contact Nostalgic Motor Cars at 800-avanti-1 to see if they might have a harness to fit the '73 (doubtful, and even if they do, it may

    be prohibitively-priced, but it is a possibility).

    Good luck, it would be a shame to trash such an otherwise pristine car.

  4. I would like to update some info on this 1983 Avanti on Bob Johnstone's list.

    I need a contact e-mail address. Thanks

    Here's the address listed on his website: rfjohnstone at cox . net (replace the "at" with "@" and remove blanks).

  5. Have a look at this page, it appears as though your radio may be listed a little over halfway down the page, but you apparently have to contact them for pricing:

    http://www.stereomanuals.com/man/rep/blaupunkt/

    Judging from my internet search, it seems Blaupunkt put the Frankfort label on a number of different models over the years.

    I have some literature on the Blaupunkt that came in my '80 Avanti, but it doesn't

    list a model name, only the model number CR-2001 (a radio with tape cassette that came on a number of foreign cars like Saab, Porsche, etc). I'm not sure this will work, but here's a try at posting a copy of the cover of my pub:

    80_Avanti_Radio.jpg

    Didn't work, try this link:

    http://www.jagsnvettes.com/MiscPhotos/80_Avanti_Radio.jpg

  6. At 5k you will only be drawing 2.8 miliamps or .0028 amps.

    Good chance if you have a clock that's what you're reading.

    The sleeping computer in my 84 draws more current than that.

    If you are in a humid area just the relitive humidity with all those connections might cause them to colectivly be the problem.

    Charlie RQB3921

    Dohhh! You're right, Charlie... amps=volts/ohms. :blink:

    I've been trying to understand why George was measuring ohms rather than the more usual method of measuring amps, which is why I asked that question. I figured he wanted to get everything debugged before he connected the battery. I've always used the amps method with the battery connected via the multimeter but I should have thought to do the calculation... 2.8 milliamps is a negligible loss in an automotive electrical system, even 50 milliamps is acceptable.

  7. It's good that there was no smoke, I once read an article that claimed that letting the smoke escape from the wires is a major cause of electrical problems :lol:

    Forgive me if I ramble, I'm thinking out loud (by typing). My usual disclaimer still applies.

    Does your car have an automatic transmission? (I assume it does, if it has a neutral safety switch, I don't know if manual transmission Avanti's have a neutral switch).

    Did you read 5k ohms with the ignition key off, or on?

    Consider trying your ohms test with the ignition switch in each position (off, on, start).

    If the readings vary, there might be some clues there, though I'm not sure what at the moment.

    Did you unplug the wire/wires to the alternator?

    As I think about it, 5k ohms is a huge load... when you are expecting infinity (open circuit) with the ignition turned off, that means something is allowing a path back to the negative side of the battery, but only at the expense of going through a huge resistance; it's not as simple as a light bulb, clock, or a coil resistor. Maybe there's a way to check the ignition switch itself, to see if it completely opens the circuit through it to infinity ohms.

    The alternator diodes put up a big resistance to flow in one direction only (my guess is in the thousands of ohms, which just happens to be what you are reading), but the diodes probably don't stop flow entirely, just effectively, which is why I asked if you removed the wiring from the alternator to take it out of the un-fused electrical circuit. If diodes were the issue, it might even be possible that just reversing the ohmmeter leads on the battery cables could change that high ohms reading???!!! Does your alternator have "field" and "output" wires going to it? Maybe remove those leads at the alternator and jumper them to each other for your ohms test?

    (just thinking out loud again, follow my suggestions at your own risk :blush: ).

  8. As I said, I'm no expert, but I'd like to learn more, to understand why you're testing ohms instead of amps.

    You haven't told us what reading you were expecting.

    The ohm reading you are getting between the disconnected battery cables does sound high, but I don't know what it is supposed to be, do you? In other words, why do you think that reading means it's broke? Seems to me that if the reading were zero ohms (which is what the reading would be if you measure at opposite ends of a wire that's not connected to anything), that would be a dead short... so if you connected the cables to the battery, it would smoke the wiring or the battery, just as though you connected a cable right across the battery posts. Therefore you don't want a zero-ohm reading; what reading do you want? Are you looking for an infinity ohm reading? That would seem logical, it would mean nothing is using any power, but every device would have to be disconnected, including the clock and any keep-alive circuitry like in an aftermarket radio, and any courtesy lights that might have faulty switches (glove box, trunk light, etc); a bad alternator diode can cause a leak to ground, also.

  9. Why are you measuring resistance?

    I'm not really all that confident working on electrics, but I tend to agree with Avanti83 that you should take the alternator out of the system; the starter I'm not so sure about.

    Are you measuring across the battery cables with the ignition key both on AND off?

    Do you get the same resistance in both instances?

    The battery positive cable is connected at the far end to the starter solenoid, and from there a smaller wire goes to the ammeter to connect the rest of the electrical system, to eventually flow back to the battery... perhaps you are measuring the resistance (ohms) of the ammeter? You could probably test that theory by probing across the ammeter posts with your ohmmeter.

    But... I question whether the test you are doing is definitive, since an electrical fire issue is due to a short, not a resistance, I think. A short is the absence of resistance, so measuring resistance may not tell you much. In fact, I'd be concerned if you DON'T see any resistance measuring across the disconnected battery cables, because that's a dead short (direct connection to ground with too-low or no resistance), a high-amp draw, which is what your fuses protect you against (when one blows, it immediately takes the resistance on that circuit to infinity). The battery works against the resistance of each circuit, producing higher amperage in a circuit when a device on that circuit goes bad (like bearings going out on a heater blower motor) and the fuse is inline in order to be sacrificed if the circuit amperage rises above the amperage rating of the fuse.

    Electrical draws are generally measured using the ampere scales on a multimeter connected between the negative battery post and the (disconnected) negative cable, with expected readings in the under-50 milliamp range when all devices are turned off.

    Start with a high amp scale and work down from there, because applying too many amps across the multimeter can ruin an inexpensive multimeter or at least blow the internal fuse on better-quality multimeters. Either remove fuses one by one, looking for a drop in amps, or start with them removed and insert one at a time, looking for a jump in amps. If there's still a high amp draw with all fuses removed, then there's a problem with an unfused circuit (starter or alternator are likely candidates). The concern is that a device on an unfused circuit requires more amperage than the wiring connected to it can carry, and I'm not sure how you'd measure that without activating the device.

    Those thoughts are off the top of my head; if I get a chance tomorrow I'll take a long look at the circuit diagram. I've never tried the test that you are doing, so I don't know what the ohm readings would normally be.

    But, I repeat, I don't claim to know a whole lot on the subject of vehicle electrics.

    Out of curiosity, where did your electrical fire start?

  10. There was a previous thread on the subject.

    http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1721&st=0&p=5893&hl=radiator%20hose&fromsearch=1entry5893

    or: http://tinyurl.com/3fezzyh

    Last time I needed hoses I ended up taking my old ones to a local parts store that let me check through their hoses until I found something I thought would work (by cutting the ends off longer hoses that had the same approximate bends). On the thread link above, several people chimed in with hose numbers that worked for them.

    Do not forget the lower hose must have a spring inside it to prevent it collapsing from engine suction.

  11. here is part 3 on the troughs you may find some usefull information here!

    http://screencast.com/t/ONnml2II

    When I come across parts references, I often make notes in my Avanti part manual.

    You asked about the rear brake cylinders. Not sure where I got the info, but I have a note that

    13/16" brake cylinders from a '61 to '66 Volvo "P" can be used.

    It's also possible the "13278" digits may be an industry-standard brake parts (EIS?) number;

    I also have notations for Wagner numbers F37782, F37783, and 41451 (the latter may be an earlier EIS standard

    number, while the ones with the "F" prefix may be a newer standard number, eg, the standard numbering scheme

    may have changed at some point over the years).

    Your best bet would be to take the brake cylinder(s) to a brake distributor for ID (my local brake distributor

    will sell to retail customers although their real business is supplying brake parts to local repair shops).

  12. How did you apply the Rust Bullet paint?

    I tried using it on a porch railing about a year ago and found that it was thickening in the quart can

    faster than I could apply it (painting metal railings is a slow process), to the point that within an

    hour or two it was nearly impossible to brush it on, and IIRC the can instructions said it could not be thinned.

    I ended up switching to Rustoleum primer.

  13. ... what specifically is the difference between an R 1 and an R 2, beyond the supercharger?

    I'm no expert, but a quick look at a parts manual shows that the short block, exhaust manifolds,

    and pan are the same, the heads, intake manifold, and distributor are different (although apparently

    the R2 head was available as an option on the R1).

    It's the R3/R4 models that differ a lot from the R1/R2. Interestingly, the radiator is used by all.

    I don't know whether there are any stamping marks on the engine that tell its type.

    And, of course, the paperwork that came with a new R2 would be of interest to a collector, since

    it proves the car was originally an R2.

  14. I can't answer directly, but maybe I can provide some clues.

    My '71 Avanti came with ignition keys that have the Chrysler symbol on them; the column was likely made by GM (Saginaw Steering) for Chrysler. Saginaw Steering made columns for several manufacturers.

    I see no reason Avanti Motors would have changed to another steering column before adapting the Chevy chassis in 1985, but I don't really know that they didn't.

    I have a partial list of early Avanti II parts (some parts that differed from Stude Avanti) that lists #1561594X41 for the tilt steering wheel, and the first 7 digits may be a standard GM part number with a modification (X41), but that's a guess and the part number may not be of value anyway.

    The ultimate authority on these cars is probably Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motor Cars 1-800-avantix.

  15. I haven't done that or looked at that area in years, so this may be a dumb thought, but would turning the steering wheel to full lock on one side or the other move the pitman arm (and other stuff) enough to give you more wrench room? And/or removing the left front wheel to get access from another angle? Another (maybe equally dumb) thought would be to place a second flare wrench on another hose fitting on the valve to counter the force of your wrench as you work on loosening the first fitting.

  16. Where do I find all of these manuals? What are they exactly called? Might run across them somewhere on the internet/eBay.

    Information on joining AOAI (members receive 2 issues of their excellent magazine yearly, and they sell back issues):

    http://www.aoai.org/membership.php

    (unfortunately important links are missing from the website pages and the AOAI store doesn't seem to be working at

    the moment... I've notified someone, so hopefully it'll get fixed)

    Shop manual looks like this: http://tinyurl.com/4qqwdcr

    Parts manual looks like this: http://tinyurl.com/4f9hja2

    You may be able to purchase those manuals from Avanti parts vendors, also.

    I'm not sure if AOAI sells the manuals.

  17. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can buy the material that seals the sunroof and the roof opening for my 1979 Avanti II.

    I don't know, I can only make suggestions, and hopefully someone on this forum will have exact information for you. But if not, perhaps some of the parts vendors do (try Nostalgic Motors).

    If Avanti vendors can't help, I can give you some clues from a 2001 posting by Lew Schucart in the AOAI magazine that might possibly give you a path to chase. This is very old information, so there's no telling if it will bear any fruit...

    The sunroofs were originally made by Skytop Sunroofs, which is now defunct, but it's assets were sold to "Auto Air Co/Midwest Custom Auto Top" in St Louis, (314-534-8080 as of 2001). They may (or may not) be able to supply parts and/or a service guide, and/or recommendations on shops that can service old sunroofs.

    Another path to persue would be to see if you can find weatherstrip materials that closely match what you have. I'd look at the AUVECO catalog for starters; some parts stores may have a copy of that catalog for their own use, or you may be able to download a catalog from AUVECO's website. JC Whitney used to carry some generic weatherstrip materials years ago, dunno if they still do. And, sometimes NAPA can come up with strange stuff in their parts books, albeit they probably can't look it up under "Avanti sunroof"

  18. I did notice that one of the side markers on the driver's side fender, the lens was broken. I have not been able to find it on any of the Avanti part sites. So any help there would be appreciated also.

    Welcome to the cult. I own a 1971, too, which I bought a year or two before your father got his.

    I'd second Gunslinger's advice on acquiring the manuals, and add that if you didn't also get

    a collection of AOAI magazines from your Dad, consider joining them... they offer CD's

    containing copies of most of their past issues.

    I can tell you the tear-drop side markers came from a late 60's Datsun, but memory

    fails me as to exact years or models.

  19. Put it back and now no electrical. Also, the rubber grommets - do they go between the wire and the nut?

    Thanks for any help.

    No, I can't think of a reason to ever use rubber grommets on studs holding electrical wires.

    If you have a shop manual, Body section page 24 says install the two gauges (water temp and ammeter)

    through the holes in the instrument panel. Install the instrument case over the retaining studs

    and install the insulating grommets and retaining nuts on those studs.

    Then connect the electrical wires to the gauges and reinstall the bulb&socket assembly in the

    instrument case.

    The wiring guide shows a 12 gauge black wire to the positive terminal of the ammeter, and a

    12gauge red wire (from the starter solenoid switch) to the negative terminal on the ammeter.

  20. here's a picture of the drum marked 'canada' in need to replace

    (couldn't send the photo...can we post photos here?) it was a jpeg 84kb

    The drum replacement part is something I'd like to know myself, so if you get that information, please post it.

    I checked my stash of part cross-references, and I tried some Google searches but didn't have much luck.

    I don't know if there were differences between years of the early Avanti's, either.

    My only suggestion would be to try a couple of vendors (Nostalgic would be your best bet) or find

    a local brake wholesaler and take a drum to them for matching. Beyond that, replacement drum systems

    (eg, you might have to replace more than just the drum) for the Dana 44 axle may be available at sources

    like this:

    http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/ProductsRE.aspx?id=1529

    I did find a listing for a 1970 Avanti that gives a Budd #87198 number for the entire rear end assembly, including drums and internal brake parts, which is probably the way Avanti Motors ordered them, but that number

    might possibly be useful to a brake wholesaler.

  21. http://www.studebaker-info.org/avdb/avantirqb/72QB1879/72QB1879.html

    Welcome to the brotherhood.

    The Avanti II is raised in the front end from where the original Stude Avanti's sat, by using shims at the forward body mounts and filling in the front wheel arches, so it does not have the "rake" of a Stude. Shocks have nothing to do with the way the car sits (unless you use air shocks with on-board compressors, but that's a whole 'nuther story), the rear springs should be at least arched up a little, or level, but not negatively arched (ends not lower than the center).

    Standard spark plug would probably be an AC R44T with .035" gap, or an AC 41-821 platinum, same gap.

    It appears your car may have an older style points distributor, hard to tell from the photos, so if you are considering upgrades, a later Chevy HEI distributor ('73 onward?) and 8mm wires would be a plus for reliability, although Chevy V8's in general are very reliable. Easy bolt-in replacement, it only requires replacing the pink resistor wire that currently goes to the coil (from the ignition switch) with a normal wire straight to the distributor cap, and then finding the correct snap-in connectors (for that wire and the tachometer wire) to use with the HEI distributor cap. Spark plug wires are the hardest part, as they require newer brackets. If the current setup is running fine, there's no hurry to make this conversion.

  22. Basically, what I'm saying is, if you're happy with how well your engine is running now, why change anything? If you have a specific problem you need to address, that's one thing.

    I agree, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

    That being said, IMHO the easiest way to switch is to install a Chevy HEI distributor and 8mm spark plug wires, and replace the resistor wire (the feed wire that currently goes to the plus side of the coil) with a normal wire. It's possible there could be firewall interference issues, but I doubt it since Avanti II's were factory-equipped with HEI distributors (starting around 1973 or 1975?).

  23. I found a few photos of my old '66 Avanti engine compartment, but taken in 1977 after I had changed the engine,

    intake, carb, and upgraded to an HEI distributor.

    I attached a photo that's been cropped and edited to try to better show the a/c compressor bracket. Note the rear support to the top of the York a/c compressor on this '66 is different than my '71; I didn't recall that.

    IIRC, the main bracket for the compressor is a heavy-duty (probably 1/4" thick) wide L-shaped bracket that bolts to the block and to a bracket on the right exhaust manifold (which also holds the alternator pivot), and it spans/bolts to the underside of the compressor. Note also that a small bracket bolted to the compressor is the anchor for the alternator belt adjustment arm, and that there is an idler pulley on the left for the a/c belt; the power steering mounts low on the left front of the engine.

    The original a/c brackets will probably be very tough to come by, In fact, even back then they were nearly impossible to find; you're better off to go hunting in local junkyards for a Chevy setup that looks as though it would work.

    Side story: back then (1976) I had given my original engine to a rebuilder recommended by a friend who gave him a lot of business for building professional race car engines. I went there with my friend to discuss it. He asked for all the brackets and accessories for use when he dyno'd the engine after the rebuild (they were needed for the p/s pump and alternator); he said the timeframe depended on his workload, but should be just a few weeks. Dumb me, I didn't discuss price with him... at the time you could have a Chevy sb V8 removed, rebuilt, and re-installed within a few days for under $800 at most shops (but I was doing the R&R myself). I figured this guy would be a bit higher considering the dyno run (I assumed perhaps as much as $1200), but wouldn't gouge me because of his vendor relationship with my friend. It was to be rebuilt to stock factory specs. You know what they say about "assuming". When he finally completed the work (over 4 months later!), he presented a bill for $2500; I was already upset about the timeframe, and I told him I couldn't afford it, he could keep the engine, just return my brackets. He refused, so I filed suit in small claims court and the day before the court hearing he gave me back the brackets. I bought an engine out of a wrecked new Malibu in a junkyard with only about 2k miles on it for $500 delivered to my door (or was it $400?). I installed that, adding a Holley intake & carb (sold the original Malibu parts), which worked out very nicely.

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