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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. My '70 originally came with one...I'm not sure when they actually stopped using them.

    They did stop using the original brass Stude-style tank (with side outlet & hose to the thermostat housing rather than bottom outlet)... my '71 has that setup, as did a '66 I owned. They later used a then-commonly-available aftermarket kit, a near-square milk-color plastic overflow tank mounted in the right front corner of the engine compartment using a wire-frame support bracket. A small-diameter hose (3/8ths?) runs across the top of the radiator support to the overflow tank.

    I think my '80 has the newer setup... too late to go out in the dark to look, but I'd be glad to take photos later if anybody requests them.

    I'm attaching a pic of the '66 tank

  2. There would also be a capacitive ignition box mounted forward on the inner panel on the passenger side of the engine bay. My '70 was equipped that way when I purchased it. It was made by Delco but I have no idea if GM installed that particular system on any of its own production. GM installed many of their K66 transistorized ignitions on many of their high performance engines and was optional on other cars.

    If my '71 came with that, I think I'd remember it, because I was aware of the K66 setup installed as an option on '64 to '71 Hi Perf Corvettes... I once bought some of the parts for that Corvette system at a swap meet back in the mid-70's, including the finned cast aluminum amplifier box that mounts on the inner fender; but I never installed it, rather I sold it to a mid-year Vette owner whose amplifier had failed. That amplifier tended to be a problem part (as the equivalent part seems to be on aftermarket transistorized ignitions like Accel), so it's possible the previous owner of my '71 reverted to the basic points system.

    Here's a vendor on the internet that still services K66:

    http://www.tispecialty.com/amplifiers.htm (sells parts, but $$$$)

    http://www.tispecialty.com/services.htm (photo of the fender-mounted amplifier)

    http://www.tispecialty.com/coils.htm (sells the coil)

    Another vendor on the internet that sells replacement parts for K66 (coil, circuit board):


  3. Hate to admit, but I've owned my '71 so long that I can't remember what ignition it originally had, but I do not recall it having an old-style transistorized ignition... I changed out the engine for an '84 Vette engine in the early 80's. I also once owned a '66 Avanti that I converted to a later engine and an HEI ignition back in the late 70's.

    I may be mistaken, but I think the '71 came with the old points-style distributor and separate cylindrical coil.

    If that's the case, then maybe the following info would help you find a coil...

    Delco lists the 1971 Corvette coil (shown as the old style cylindrical coil) as

    "COIL ASM,IGN Part Number: E555"

    Or, you could check junkyards for Chevy V8 cars of about 1971 vintage for a used coil.

    Or maybe your parts suppliers can find cross-references to these coils listed by NAPA:





    Or, of course, you could consider swapping in a later HEI distributor from a mid-to-late 70's Chevy V8...

    you'd also need to replace the spark plug wires with 8mm or 7mm, along with their support guides, and run a non-resistor wire to the distributor (to replace the current pink resistor wire); if you acquire the setup from a junkyard, also clip the connectors for the 12v power and the tachometer from the wreck to use to attach your wires to the HEI.

    Corvette-style ignition shielding may be needed if AM radio reception is important to you.

    Lastly, you could probably order from a US Corvette parts vendor (assuming they'll ship to Australia), such as this one: http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/COIL.pdf

  4. Hi all. I am not happy with the quadrajet on my '71 350ci Avanti Automatic. Anyone suggest a modern replacement carb to suit?

    Thanks in advance

    Dave... :rolleyes:

    Why are you unhappy with your quadrajet?

    I'd echo what Gunslinger said, for driveability and fuel economy in a 4-barrel, it's probably impossible to beat a Rochester quadrajet. Some say an Edelbrock quadrajet-clone is better, that they improved a few things in the design, but I've never owned one and I'm always suspect that a generalized clone can best a carburetor that was tweaked to the exact year Chevy engine and vehicle, on dynamometers and at the GM proving grounds, by Chevy and Rochester experts, just before the car was first sold.

    BTW, I think Gunslinger may have given you the wrong Edelbrock carb number, the small block takes a 1901, not a 1906.

    - http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/misc/tech_center/install/1000/1901.pdf

    Here is a rebuilder that has troubleshooting tips on their website, under the philosophy that not all "carburetor issues" require a carb rebuild...

    - http://www.recarbco.com/technical/

    I believe this was the outfit that rebuilt my own '71 quadrajet a few years back, I can check for certain by searching old files, but I realize you are in Australia and will probably want someone closer. They do say they sell rebuilt carbs outright, but apparently you'll need to email them to find out if they can supply one for your application (here's how to identify your carburetor: http://www.recarbco.com/technical/rochester/qjet.html )

    You haven't said whether a carb rebuild is a project you'd undertake yourself; I've owned a lot of Chevy's over the years and done a number of rebuilds, but in the distant past, and I'd be out of my depth if the carb needed new butterfly valve bushings, or any other sort of machining, in fact I probably wouldn't even recognize the need for it... I've only done parts replacement, cleaning, adjustments, and played with jet sizes.

    Here's a couple of related articles of interest I bookmarked at some point...

    - http://www.carcraft.com/howto/57178/index.html

    - http://quadrajetcarburetors.com/

    - http://quadrajetcarburetors.com/bushingkitinstructions.html

  5. This is more of a suggestion, because its been some years since I've done it, but I think I gently slid a clean wide putty knife beneath the end of the cover to protect the upholstery and then squeezed a sharp screwdriver (or a narrow putty knife with a chisel edge) between the putty knife and the chrome cover to gently lever it free.

  6. I vaguely recall having that issue about 25 years ago, probably on my '71.

    I think I bought a "correct" flexplate from Nostalgic Motor Cars.

    Actually, my recollection is that the one I bought was sloppily done,

    the converter holes apparently done with a hand drill by employees of the

    Avanti Motor Company, but it did work fine (that steel is hard,

    very difficult to drill).

    But I agree with Devildog that if you can find a flexplate with the correct

    crankshaft bolt pattern, diameter, and number of teeth, then a good

    machinist should be able to drill the correct torque converter bolt holes for you

    (since you have the old one to use as a pattern it should be easy).

    I expect the machining would easily be within the 1-hour minimum most machinists

    would charge for their work.

  7. Hi all, I am after the clear plastic name plate? I think it may be called, and best I can work out may be part No 1358767 to fit my 1971 Avanti 11.

    I have looked on Studebaker International site but cant see one listed. Anybody got one to sell to me?

    Thanks in advance.


    You might try Nostalgic Motor Cars or Myers, but it seems to me that those "plates"

    (the plastic bezel for the switches mounted over the windshield) are unobtainium...

    most cracked over time and I think the supply of spares has been used up.

    I'm pretty sure that part is the same on your '71 as the original Avanti. I cannot remember one being offered for sale in years.

    Seems like it would be a fairly simple part for someone so inclined to have reproduced to sell, but AFAIK no one has.

  8. Anyway I am just learning these cars and I went to check under the tire cover but I can't get the damn cover off!!!!???? it seems there is some sort of latch but anyway I try it doesn't release the cover. Is there some trick to these things???? I would really appreciate some help, feeling really stupid.

    My recollection is that the latch is a simple over-center lever, so lifting up one end of the metal rectangular lever should free it...

    then just move the latch clear and lift & slide the cover towards you to lift it free from the car, as there are no hinges holding it in.

    But, modern tires are fatter than the ones used when the Avanti was designed, so the tire well isn't deep enough; its possible the

    prior owner forced the latch closed, so that the tire is applying a LOT of pressure to the cover and lever, holding the lever forcefully

    in the closed position. Your photo seems to confirm that.

    You should be able to tell (by inspecting the latch) which end of the rectangle to lift (the longest end, furthest end from trunk lid, most likely);

    holding pressure down very hard on the cover, near the latch, like kneeling on it, might compress the tire a tad and make it

    easier to release the latch... and/or, use something to pry the latch lever up.

    The far end of the cover (toward the passenger compartment) is just held in place by a narrow ledge it slides beneath.

    I haven't latched mine in many years, so my cover simply serves as a flat loose "mat" between the tire and whatever is in the trunk.

  9. <snip> My new problem is the brake light fuse blows when I step on the brake. If I disconnect the wire that goes from the brake light switch to the steering column at the switch, and connect my ohm meter, it shows a short to ground. If I unplug the connector by the steering column, there is no continuity to ground. Do I at this time suspect the turn signal switch in the steering column? The turn signals work fine. Any suggestions?

    Congratulations on getting it running smoothly!

    Wish I had some wisdom to give you, I just would say that you need to find a way to isolate the short to the turn signal switch, the brake light switch, or the tail light wiring (including bulbs).

    Assuming both the turn signals and the brakes use the same (bright) filament, that would rule out the bulbs and the sockets, and wiring between the turn signal switch and the bulbs.

    Unless the brake light switch is shorting... easy test, just make sure the 2 wires (disconnected from the turn signal switch) have no continuity to ground with the brake pedal depressed.

    Look for corroded contacts where those wires connect to the turn signal switch, as I suspect a poor connection could cause the fuse to blow.

    In a prior posting of yours, I mentioned the existence of some Avanti II circuit drawings that were drawn freehand and sold in booklet form some years ago. In trying to research your current problem, I found those diagrams on the internet here:


    And another Avanti II diagram: http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/AVACD4.JPG'>http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Diagrams/AVACD4.JPG

    And I also found the 63-64 wiring diagram, although I believe the stop light setup is somewhat different

    than the later Avanti II's with GM steering columns:


    Bob Johnson's website: http://www.studebaker-info.org/ (where the above diagrams were found) has an amazing amount of factory technical info

    and backyard mechanic innovative solutions.

  10. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I've read that wiring harnesses were put together by a lady with a drawing on a piece of plywood. So much for the chance of getting a schematic drawing.

    There was a booklet of wiring diagrams for (some of the) Avanti II add-on accessories, sold through an ad in the AOAI magazine some years back.

    It was compiled by an AOAI member and consisted of perhaps a dozen pages of circuit sketches; it would be used as a supplement to the

    Stude wiring diagram in the shop manual.

    I was not able to find it in the AOAI website bookstore just now, but perhaps this will jog someone else's memory about where that

    booklet can be purchased. Actually, I have a copy of the booklet at home, but I'm currently away on extended vacation until

    the end of September... if you don't get further info from others, try emailing me in early October and I can see if the publication

    has any contact info on it.

    The factory manual diagram may be sufficient for your needs, as the burnt portions are likely only those wires that go through the firewall,

    eg, wiring related to the engine compartment harnesses (starter, alternator, voltage regulator, ammeter, horns, coil, points, etc...

    I doubt the damage would extend to many other portions of the harness, though I'm sure that's possible. So, you may be able to use splices to replace damaged

    portions of the wiring, plus replacing any damaged devices... messy job, but it may be easier than replacing the entire harness. I once had

    to do something similar on my '71 due to a short circuit caused by the harness rubbing against the right-side hood latch; that trashed all the wiring

    under the hood, but luckily the burnt wiring stopped just short of the firewall grommet so I didn't have to work beneath the dash. But, the repairs are

    definitely noticeable/obvious.

    You might also contact Nostalgic Motor Cars at 800-avanti-1 to see if they might have a harness to fit the '73 (doubtful, and even if they do, it may

    be prohibitively-priced, but it is a possibility).

    Good luck, it would be a shame to trash such an otherwise pristine car.

  11. I would like to update some info on this 1983 Avanti on Bob Johnstone's list.

    I need a contact e-mail address. Thanks

    Here's the address listed on his website: rfjohnstone at cox . net (replace the "at" with "@" and remove blanks).

  12. Have a look at this page, it appears as though your radio may be listed a little over halfway down the page, but you apparently have to contact them for pricing:


    Judging from my internet search, it seems Blaupunkt put the Frankfort label on a number of different models over the years.

    I have some literature on the Blaupunkt that came in my '80 Avanti, but it doesn't

    list a model name, only the model number CR-2001 (a radio with tape cassette that came on a number of foreign cars like Saab, Porsche, etc). I'm not sure this will work, but here's a try at posting a copy of the cover of my pub:


    Didn't work, try this link:


  13. At 5k you will only be drawing 2.8 miliamps or .0028 amps.

    Good chance if you have a clock that's what you're reading.

    The sleeping computer in my 84 draws more current than that.

    If you are in a humid area just the relitive humidity with all those connections might cause them to colectivly be the problem.

    Charlie RQB3921

    Dohhh! You're right, Charlie... amps=volts/ohms. :blink:

    I've been trying to understand why George was measuring ohms rather than the more usual method of measuring amps, which is why I asked that question. I figured he wanted to get everything debugged before he connected the battery. I've always used the amps method with the battery connected via the multimeter but I should have thought to do the calculation... 2.8 milliamps is a negligible loss in an automotive electrical system, even 50 milliamps is acceptable.

  14. It's good that there was no smoke, I once read an article that claimed that letting the smoke escape from the wires is a major cause of electrical problems :lol:

    Forgive me if I ramble, I'm thinking out loud (by typing). My usual disclaimer still applies.

    Does your car have an automatic transmission? (I assume it does, if it has a neutral safety switch, I don't know if manual transmission Avanti's have a neutral switch).

    Did you read 5k ohms with the ignition key off, or on?

    Consider trying your ohms test with the ignition switch in each position (off, on, start).

    If the readings vary, there might be some clues there, though I'm not sure what at the moment.

    Did you unplug the wire/wires to the alternator?

    As I think about it, 5k ohms is a huge load... when you are expecting infinity (open circuit) with the ignition turned off, that means something is allowing a path back to the negative side of the battery, but only at the expense of going through a huge resistance; it's not as simple as a light bulb, clock, or a coil resistor. Maybe there's a way to check the ignition switch itself, to see if it completely opens the circuit through it to infinity ohms.

    The alternator diodes put up a big resistance to flow in one direction only (my guess is in the thousands of ohms, which just happens to be what you are reading), but the diodes probably don't stop flow entirely, just effectively, which is why I asked if you removed the wiring from the alternator to take it out of the un-fused electrical circuit. If diodes were the issue, it might even be possible that just reversing the ohmmeter leads on the battery cables could change that high ohms reading???!!! Does your alternator have "field" and "output" wires going to it? Maybe remove those leads at the alternator and jumper them to each other for your ohms test?

    (just thinking out loud again, follow my suggestions at your own risk :blush: ).

  15. As I said, I'm no expert, but I'd like to learn more, to understand why you're testing ohms instead of amps.

    You haven't told us what reading you were expecting.

    The ohm reading you are getting between the disconnected battery cables does sound high, but I don't know what it is supposed to be, do you? In other words, why do you think that reading means it's broke? Seems to me that if the reading were zero ohms (which is what the reading would be if you measure at opposite ends of a wire that's not connected to anything), that would be a dead short... so if you connected the cables to the battery, it would smoke the wiring or the battery, just as though you connected a cable right across the battery posts. Therefore you don't want a zero-ohm reading; what reading do you want? Are you looking for an infinity ohm reading? That would seem logical, it would mean nothing is using any power, but every device would have to be disconnected, including the clock and any keep-alive circuitry like in an aftermarket radio, and any courtesy lights that might have faulty switches (glove box, trunk light, etc); a bad alternator diode can cause a leak to ground, also.

  16. Why are you measuring resistance?

    I'm not really all that confident working on electrics, but I tend to agree with Avanti83 that you should take the alternator out of the system; the starter I'm not so sure about.

    Are you measuring across the battery cables with the ignition key both on AND off?

    Do you get the same resistance in both instances?

    The battery positive cable is connected at the far end to the starter solenoid, and from there a smaller wire goes to the ammeter to connect the rest of the electrical system, to eventually flow back to the battery... perhaps you are measuring the resistance (ohms) of the ammeter? You could probably test that theory by probing across the ammeter posts with your ohmmeter.

    But... I question whether the test you are doing is definitive, since an electrical fire issue is due to a short, not a resistance, I think. A short is the absence of resistance, so measuring resistance may not tell you much. In fact, I'd be concerned if you DON'T see any resistance measuring across the disconnected battery cables, because that's a dead short (direct connection to ground with too-low or no resistance), a high-amp draw, which is what your fuses protect you against (when one blows, it immediately takes the resistance on that circuit to infinity). The battery works against the resistance of each circuit, producing higher amperage in a circuit when a device on that circuit goes bad (like bearings going out on a heater blower motor) and the fuse is inline in order to be sacrificed if the circuit amperage rises above the amperage rating of the fuse.

    Electrical draws are generally measured using the ampere scales on a multimeter connected between the negative battery post and the (disconnected) negative cable, with expected readings in the under-50 milliamp range when all devices are turned off.

    Start with a high amp scale and work down from there, because applying too many amps across the multimeter can ruin an inexpensive multimeter or at least blow the internal fuse on better-quality multimeters. Either remove fuses one by one, looking for a drop in amps, or start with them removed and insert one at a time, looking for a jump in amps. If there's still a high amp draw with all fuses removed, then there's a problem with an unfused circuit (starter or alternator are likely candidates). The concern is that a device on an unfused circuit requires more amperage than the wiring connected to it can carry, and I'm not sure how you'd measure that without activating the device.

    Those thoughts are off the top of my head; if I get a chance tomorrow I'll take a long look at the circuit diagram. I've never tried the test that you are doing, so I don't know what the ohm readings would normally be.

    But, I repeat, I don't claim to know a whole lot on the subject of vehicle electrics.

    Out of curiosity, where did your electrical fire start?

  17. There was a previous thread on the subject.


    or: http://tinyurl.com/3fezzyh

    Last time I needed hoses I ended up taking my old ones to a local parts store that let me check through their hoses until I found something I thought would work (by cutting the ends off longer hoses that had the same approximate bends). On the thread link above, several people chimed in with hose numbers that worked for them.

    Do not forget the lower hose must have a spring inside it to prevent it collapsing from engine suction.

  18. here is part 3 on the troughs you may find some usefull information here!


    When I come across parts references, I often make notes in my Avanti part manual.

    You asked about the rear brake cylinders. Not sure where I got the info, but I have a note that

    13/16" brake cylinders from a '61 to '66 Volvo "P" can be used.

    It's also possible the "13278" digits may be an industry-standard brake parts (EIS?) number;

    I also have notations for Wagner numbers F37782, F37783, and 41451 (the latter may be an earlier EIS standard

    number, while the ones with the "F" prefix may be a newer standard number, eg, the standard numbering scheme

    may have changed at some point over the years).

    Your best bet would be to take the brake cylinder(s) to a brake distributor for ID (my local brake distributor

    will sell to retail customers although their real business is supplying brake parts to local repair shops).

  19. How did you apply the Rust Bullet paint?

    I tried using it on a porch railing about a year ago and found that it was thickening in the quart can

    faster than I could apply it (painting metal railings is a slow process), to the point that within an

    hour or two it was nearly impossible to brush it on, and IIRC the can instructions said it could not be thinned.

    I ended up switching to Rustoleum primer.

  20. ... what specifically is the difference between an R 1 and an R 2, beyond the supercharger?

    I'm no expert, but a quick look at a parts manual shows that the short block, exhaust manifolds,

    and pan are the same, the heads, intake manifold, and distributor are different (although apparently

    the R2 head was available as an option on the R1).

    It's the R3/R4 models that differ a lot from the R1/R2. Interestingly, the radiator is used by all.

    I don't know whether there are any stamping marks on the engine that tell its type.

    And, of course, the paperwork that came with a new R2 would be of interest to a collector, since

    it proves the car was originally an R2.

  21. I can't answer directly, but maybe I can provide some clues.

    My '71 Avanti came with ignition keys that have the Chrysler symbol on them; the column was likely made by GM (Saginaw Steering) for Chrysler. Saginaw Steering made columns for several manufacturers.

    I see no reason Avanti Motors would have changed to another steering column before adapting the Chevy chassis in 1985, but I don't really know that they didn't.

    I have a partial list of early Avanti II parts (some parts that differed from Stude Avanti) that lists #1561594X41 for the tilt steering wheel, and the first 7 digits may be a standard GM part number with a modification (X41), but that's a guess and the part number may not be of value anyway.

    The ultimate authority on these cars is probably Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motor Cars 1-800-avantix.

  22. I haven't done that or looked at that area in years, so this may be a dumb thought, but would turning the steering wheel to full lock on one side or the other move the pitman arm (and other stuff) enough to give you more wrench room? And/or removing the left front wheel to get access from another angle? Another (maybe equally dumb) thought would be to place a second flare wrench on another hose fitting on the valve to counter the force of your wrench as you work on loosening the first fitting.

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