Jump to content

WayneC

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    519
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Why are you measuring resistance?

    I'm not really all that confident working on electrics, but I tend to agree with Avanti83 that you should take the alternator out of the system; the starter I'm not so sure about.

    Are you measuring across the battery cables with the ignition key both on AND off?

    Do you get the same resistance in both instances?

    The battery positive cable is connected at the far end to the starter solenoid, and from there a smaller wire goes to the ammeter to connect the rest of the electrical system, to eventually flow back to the battery... perhaps you are measuring the resistance (ohms) of the ammeter? You could probably test that theory by probing across the ammeter posts with your ohmmeter.

    But... I question whether the test you are doing is definitive, since an electrical fire issue is due to a short, not a resistance, I think. A short is the absence of resistance, so measuring resistance may not tell you much. In fact, I'd be concerned if you DON'T see any resistance measuring across the disconnected battery cables, because that's a dead short (direct connection to ground with too-low or no resistance), a high-amp draw, which is what your fuses protect you against (when one blows, it immediately takes the resistance on that circuit to infinity). The battery works against the resistance of each circuit, producing higher amperage in a circuit when a device on that circuit goes bad (like bearings going out on a heater blower motor) and the fuse is inline in order to be sacrificed if the circuit amperage rises above the amperage rating of the fuse.

    Electrical draws are generally measured using the ampere scales on a multimeter connected between the negative battery post and the (disconnected) negative cable, with expected readings in the under-50 milliamp range when all devices are turned off.

    Start with a high amp scale and work down from there, because applying too many amps across the multimeter can ruin an inexpensive multimeter or at least blow the internal fuse on better-quality multimeters. Either remove fuses one by one, looking for a drop in amps, or start with them removed and insert one at a time, looking for a jump in amps. If there's still a high amp draw with all fuses removed, then there's a problem with an unfused circuit (starter or alternator are likely candidates). The concern is that a device on an unfused circuit requires more amperage than the wiring connected to it can carry, and I'm not sure how you'd measure that without activating the device.

    Those thoughts are off the top of my head; if I get a chance tomorrow I'll take a long look at the circuit diagram. I've never tried the test that you are doing, so I don't know what the ohm readings would normally be.

    But, I repeat, I don't claim to know a whole lot on the subject of vehicle electrics.

    Out of curiosity, where did your electrical fire start?

  2. There was a previous thread on the subject.

    http://www.aoai.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=1721&st=0&p=5893&hl=radiator%20hose&fromsearch=1entry5893

    or: http://tinyurl.com/3fezzyh

    Last time I needed hoses I ended up taking my old ones to a local parts store that let me check through their hoses until I found something I thought would work (by cutting the ends off longer hoses that had the same approximate bends). On the thread link above, several people chimed in with hose numbers that worked for them.

    Do not forget the lower hose must have a spring inside it to prevent it collapsing from engine suction.

  3. here is part 3 on the troughs you may find some usefull information here!

    http://screencast.com/t/ONnml2II

    When I come across parts references, I often make notes in my Avanti part manual.

    You asked about the rear brake cylinders. Not sure where I got the info, but I have a note that

    13/16" brake cylinders from a '61 to '66 Volvo "P" can be used.

    It's also possible the "13278" digits may be an industry-standard brake parts (EIS?) number;

    I also have notations for Wagner numbers F37782, F37783, and 41451 (the latter may be an earlier EIS standard

    number, while the ones with the "F" prefix may be a newer standard number, eg, the standard numbering scheme

    may have changed at some point over the years).

    Your best bet would be to take the brake cylinder(s) to a brake distributor for ID (my local brake distributor

    will sell to retail customers although their real business is supplying brake parts to local repair shops).

  4. How did you apply the Rust Bullet paint?

    I tried using it on a porch railing about a year ago and found that it was thickening in the quart can

    faster than I could apply it (painting metal railings is a slow process), to the point that within an

    hour or two it was nearly impossible to brush it on, and IIRC the can instructions said it could not be thinned.

    I ended up switching to Rustoleum primer.

  5. ... what specifically is the difference between an R 1 and an R 2, beyond the supercharger?

    I'm no expert, but a quick look at a parts manual shows that the short block, exhaust manifolds,

    and pan are the same, the heads, intake manifold, and distributor are different (although apparently

    the R2 head was available as an option on the R1).

    It's the R3/R4 models that differ a lot from the R1/R2. Interestingly, the radiator is used by all.

    I don't know whether there are any stamping marks on the engine that tell its type.

    And, of course, the paperwork that came with a new R2 would be of interest to a collector, since

    it proves the car was originally an R2.

  6. I can't answer directly, but maybe I can provide some clues.

    My '71 Avanti came with ignition keys that have the Chrysler symbol on them; the column was likely made by GM (Saginaw Steering) for Chrysler. Saginaw Steering made columns for several manufacturers.

    I see no reason Avanti Motors would have changed to another steering column before adapting the Chevy chassis in 1985, but I don't really know that they didn't.

    I have a partial list of early Avanti II parts (some parts that differed from Stude Avanti) that lists #1561594X41 for the tilt steering wheel, and the first 7 digits may be a standard GM part number with a modification (X41), but that's a guess and the part number may not be of value anyway.

    The ultimate authority on these cars is probably Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motor Cars 1-800-avantix.

  7. I haven't done that or looked at that area in years, so this may be a dumb thought, but would turning the steering wheel to full lock on one side or the other move the pitman arm (and other stuff) enough to give you more wrench room? And/or removing the left front wheel to get access from another angle? Another (maybe equally dumb) thought would be to place a second flare wrench on another hose fitting on the valve to counter the force of your wrench as you work on loosening the first fitting.

  8. Where do I find all of these manuals? What are they exactly called? Might run across them somewhere on the internet/eBay.

    Information on joining AOAI (members receive 2 issues of their excellent magazine yearly, and they sell back issues):

    http://www.aoai.org/membership.php

    (unfortunately important links are missing from the website pages and the AOAI store doesn't seem to be working at

    the moment... I've notified someone, so hopefully it'll get fixed)

    Shop manual looks like this: http://tinyurl.com/4qqwdcr

    Parts manual looks like this: http://tinyurl.com/4f9hja2

    You may be able to purchase those manuals from Avanti parts vendors, also.

    I'm not sure if AOAI sells the manuals.

  9. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can buy the material that seals the sunroof and the roof opening for my 1979 Avanti II.

    I don't know, I can only make suggestions, and hopefully someone on this forum will have exact information for you. But if not, perhaps some of the parts vendors do (try Nostalgic Motors).

    If Avanti vendors can't help, I can give you some clues from a 2001 posting by Lew Schucart in the AOAI magazine that might possibly give you a path to chase. This is very old information, so there's no telling if it will bear any fruit...

    The sunroofs were originally made by Skytop Sunroofs, which is now defunct, but it's assets were sold to "Auto Air Co/Midwest Custom Auto Top" in St Louis, (314-534-8080 as of 2001). They may (or may not) be able to supply parts and/or a service guide, and/or recommendations on shops that can service old sunroofs.

    Another path to persue would be to see if you can find weatherstrip materials that closely match what you have. I'd look at the AUVECO catalog for starters; some parts stores may have a copy of that catalog for their own use, or you may be able to download a catalog from AUVECO's website. JC Whitney used to carry some generic weatherstrip materials years ago, dunno if they still do. And, sometimes NAPA can come up with strange stuff in their parts books, albeit they probably can't look it up under "Avanti sunroof"

  10. I did notice that one of the side markers on the driver's side fender, the lens was broken. I have not been able to find it on any of the Avanti part sites. So any help there would be appreciated also.

    Welcome to the cult. I own a 1971, too, which I bought a year or two before your father got his.

    I'd second Gunslinger's advice on acquiring the manuals, and add that if you didn't also get

    a collection of AOAI magazines from your Dad, consider joining them... they offer CD's

    containing copies of most of their past issues.

    I can tell you the tear-drop side markers came from a late 60's Datsun, but memory

    fails me as to exact years or models.

  11. Put it back and now no electrical. Also, the rubber grommets - do they go between the wire and the nut?

    Thanks for any help.

    No, I can't think of a reason to ever use rubber grommets on studs holding electrical wires.

    If you have a shop manual, Body section page 24 says install the two gauges (water temp and ammeter)

    through the holes in the instrument panel. Install the instrument case over the retaining studs

    and install the insulating grommets and retaining nuts on those studs.

    Then connect the electrical wires to the gauges and reinstall the bulb&socket assembly in the

    instrument case.

    The wiring guide shows a 12 gauge black wire to the positive terminal of the ammeter, and a

    12gauge red wire (from the starter solenoid switch) to the negative terminal on the ammeter.

  12. here's a picture of the drum marked 'canada' in need to replace

    (couldn't send the photo...can we post photos here?) it was a jpeg 84kb

    The drum replacement part is something I'd like to know myself, so if you get that information, please post it.

    I checked my stash of part cross-references, and I tried some Google searches but didn't have much luck.

    I don't know if there were differences between years of the early Avanti's, either.

    My only suggestion would be to try a couple of vendors (Nostalgic would be your best bet) or find

    a local brake wholesaler and take a drum to them for matching. Beyond that, replacement drum systems

    (eg, you might have to replace more than just the drum) for the Dana 44 axle may be available at sources

    like this:

    http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/ProductsRE.aspx?id=1529

    I did find a listing for a 1970 Avanti that gives a Budd #87198 number for the entire rear end assembly, including drums and internal brake parts, which is probably the way Avanti Motors ordered them, but that number

    might possibly be useful to a brake wholesaler.

  13. http://www.studebaker-info.org/avdb/avantirqb/72QB1879/72QB1879.html

    Welcome to the brotherhood.

    The Avanti II is raised in the front end from where the original Stude Avanti's sat, by using shims at the forward body mounts and filling in the front wheel arches, so it does not have the "rake" of a Stude. Shocks have nothing to do with the way the car sits (unless you use air shocks with on-board compressors, but that's a whole 'nuther story), the rear springs should be at least arched up a little, or level, but not negatively arched (ends not lower than the center).

    Standard spark plug would probably be an AC R44T with .035" gap, or an AC 41-821 platinum, same gap.

    It appears your car may have an older style points distributor, hard to tell from the photos, so if you are considering upgrades, a later Chevy HEI distributor ('73 onward?) and 8mm wires would be a plus for reliability, although Chevy V8's in general are very reliable. Easy bolt-in replacement, it only requires replacing the pink resistor wire that currently goes to the coil (from the ignition switch) with a normal wire straight to the distributor cap, and then finding the correct snap-in connectors (for that wire and the tachometer wire) to use with the HEI distributor cap. Spark plug wires are the hardest part, as they require newer brackets. If the current setup is running fine, there's no hurry to make this conversion.

  14. Basically, what I'm saying is, if you're happy with how well your engine is running now, why change anything? If you have a specific problem you need to address, that's one thing.

    I agree, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

    That being said, IMHO the easiest way to switch is to install a Chevy HEI distributor and 8mm spark plug wires, and replace the resistor wire (the feed wire that currently goes to the plus side of the coil) with a normal wire. It's possible there could be firewall interference issues, but I doubt it since Avanti II's were factory-equipped with HEI distributors (starting around 1973 or 1975?).

  15. I found a few photos of my old '66 Avanti engine compartment, but taken in 1977 after I had changed the engine,

    intake, carb, and upgraded to an HEI distributor.

    I attached a photo that's been cropped and edited to try to better show the a/c compressor bracket. Note the rear support to the top of the York a/c compressor on this '66 is different than my '71; I didn't recall that.

    IIRC, the main bracket for the compressor is a heavy-duty (probably 1/4" thick) wide L-shaped bracket that bolts to the block and to a bracket on the right exhaust manifold (which also holds the alternator pivot), and it spans/bolts to the underside of the compressor. Note also that a small bracket bolted to the compressor is the anchor for the alternator belt adjustment arm, and that there is an idler pulley on the left for the a/c belt; the power steering mounts low on the left front of the engine.

    The original a/c brackets will probably be very tough to come by, In fact, even back then they were nearly impossible to find; you're better off to go hunting in local junkyards for a Chevy setup that looks as though it would work.

    Side story: back then (1976) I had given my original engine to a rebuilder recommended by a friend who gave him a lot of business for building professional race car engines. I went there with my friend to discuss it. He asked for all the brackets and accessories for use when he dyno'd the engine after the rebuild (they were needed for the p/s pump and alternator); he said the timeframe depended on his workload, but should be just a few weeks. Dumb me, I didn't discuss price with him... at the time you could have a Chevy sb V8 removed, rebuilt, and re-installed within a few days for under $800 at most shops (but I was doing the R&R myself). I figured this guy would be a bit higher considering the dyno run (I assumed perhaps as much as $1200), but wouldn't gouge me because of his vendor relationship with my friend. It was to be rebuilt to stock factory specs. You know what they say about "assuming". When he finally completed the work (over 4 months later!), he presented a bill for $2500; I was already upset about the timeframe, and I told him I couldn't afford it, he could keep the engine, just return my brackets. He refused, so I filed suit in small claims court and the day before the court hearing he gave me back the brackets. I bought an engine out of a wrecked new Malibu in a junkyard with only about 2k miles on it for $500 delivered to my door (or was it $400?). I installed that, adding a Holley intake & carb (sold the original Malibu parts), which worked out very nicely.

  16. Congratulations! I too, own a '71. You don't mention whether you have previously owned any Studebakers.

    1. Are there shop, body, and chassis manuals, if so who has them and are they as complete as the studebaker manuals?

    No, the Stude manuals still apply to almost everything except the engine & transmission

    2. SI has some parts, but not many Avanti II parts, who are the principle suppliers?

    The primary source for parts is Nostalgic Motor Cars in Wixom MI; unfortunately their website seems

    to have been abandoned about 4 years ago, but you can reach them at 1-800-avanti1. They bought out

    nearly all the pre-1985 Avanti 2 parts from Avanti Motor Co when Avanti went out of business.

    Another source is eBay, and in fact Nostalgic often lists parts there under the name "Avantilady"

    Nostalgic can also provide you with a copy of the original build order for your Avanti.

    Here is another parts vendor: http://www.avantiparts.biz/servlet/StoreFront

    Other vendors do carry parts, especially those parts that are common to the original Stude Avanti,

    and there are some aftermarket parts like exhaust systems.

    Some vendors advertise in Avanti Magazine, the AOAI club publication: https://www.aoai.org/shop/home.php?cat=1

    They also sell a set of 5 CD's of all their issues (I have stacks of the magazine, so I haven't popped for the Cd's): https://www.aoai.org/shop/home.php?cat=3

    Here is a website with a lot of good info: http://www.studebaker-info.org/

    3. On the 71 is the battery properly mounted in the trunk, if so should it be contained?

    No. it is normally inside the left front fender (front corner). Trunk batteries should be vented

    outside the car, but you'd have to make your own provisions to do that.

    4. Does the 71 have ignition suppression shielding, if so what does it look like, as it was not apparent on the 71 (and the radio did not work)?

    Mine did not have shielding, and it hasn't been a problem. Corvette ignition shielding could be added if you so desire. Actually, shielding probably does more for other nearby vehicles than for yours. I converted my car to an an HEI distributor, IIRC (it's been a long time, I've owned several Avanti's, and converted several in those years).

    5. What about engine, transmission parts, is there a separate GM book for that, and does it make more sense to replace with crate motor, transmission vs. overhaul?

    Chevy small blocks are Chevy small blocks, there is tons of info on them; my tranny is a Turbo400, yours

    probably is, too.

    If you are concerned with originality, then rebuild the engine, otherwise it is probably more cost-effective

    to go with a crate engine (like a ZZ4), and a 4-speed Chevy automatic would improve your mileage (700R4, for example). At one point, I replaced my original engine with one from an '84 Corvette.

    6. The AC compressor is missing, what type compressor is used and who might have it and what ever brackets may be used?

    I'm having a senior moment, I can't remember the maker of the a/c compressor (it's the square aluminum casting pump used by Stude and Ford). But I had a '69 at one time that used the GM a/c compressor (apparently Avanti used whatever was available and cheapest at the time of build)... brackets are readily available for those; any good a/c shop can probably do the plumbing for either type.

    Finally does anyone have pictures of the engine compartment of a 71 that they could email (renda1007@yahoo.com).

    I am familiar with 63-64 motor compartment and this 71 looks like it is missing some parts and/or has some "jack-leg" changes.

    I can send you some photos of my engine compartment, although it would take a day or two to get better pics of the engine compartment (which isn't in as good condition as the body & interior), but as I said, it's not completely original. I'll attach two photos I was able to find quickly.

    Here is a webpage with a number of Avanti photos: http://www.studebaker-info.org/

    Any help would be appreciated Ken, Deltaville Va

    You're at the right place to ask. Good place to post when you've found a parts source or made a satisfying

    modification, also, its the way we all learn more about our Avanti's.

    Wayne

  17. I don't have direct knowledge, except to say that GM built steering columns for several

    other car manufacturers, including AMC and Chrysler, I believe.

    I'm surprised the locksmith you consulted said he can't get parts, I would have to think

    the internal parts are more than likely still available, even though the complete column isn't,

    maybe even from aftermarket parts suppliers. What parts, exactly, do you need? The lock cylinder

    itself should be easy.

    My guess is that the 7-digit number (7811079)is probably the GM part number for the column assembly.

    I have a partial listing of parts for '65 to '70 Avanti that lists a part number 1561594x41,

    and I suspect the first 7 digits may be a GM part number... your column may be a later version.

    I doubt you need to buy an exact replacement column... you may be able to buy a similar column,

    disassemble the lock and use the parts for your column, as I suspect the internals are

    pretty much the same for those early 70's GM columns.

    Probably best to get parts that come with an ignition key, but a locksmith can probably

    make a key for whatever you do find.

    Or, possibly even disassemble your column and take photos of the parts you need (for comparison

    purposes, marked with measurements you take) and try some specialty parts vendors, like these:

    http://stolenandrecovered.com/parts2/rack.php

    http://www.carlocksandkeys.com/servlet/the-ALL/keyword/GMC-ignition-Lock/Categories

    http://www.gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/

    Even eBay:

    http://tinyurl.com/2g5gftu

    http://tinyurl.com/2abofc7

    Here's some info I found on 70's Corvettes, which might possibly have the same internals as your car:

    "Standard Columns 1969 through 1976.

    Ignition Switch All Corvette standard (non-adjustable) columns used the same GM ignition

    switch from 1969 through 1979. Reminder: standard columns have one type switch, adjustable

    columns have a different switch. Even though your Corvette wiring harness will connect to

    either switch, the steering column rod pushes to actuate the standard switch (GM 1990115)

    into the START position whereas the T&T steering column rod pulls to actuate the T&T switch

    (GM 1990116) to the START position.

    Ignition Lock Cylinder (1969 – 1978) All GM columns use interchangeable ignition lock

    cylinders from 1969 thru 1978 (GM 20071252).

    Key Warning Buzzer Switch (1969 – 1979) Available from GM.

    Used on all standard GM columns of that era (GM 7804414)."

    You can check availability of GM part numbers here: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/

    (your column number didn't get a hit, but I didn't really expect it would)

    Lastly, it might be worth contacting Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motorcars to see if he

    has any info or parts (he might even have complete columns, but I expect they would

    be expen$ive, whereas replacement lock parts should be much more reasonable); it's

    possible he'd know the AMC model that used the same column, assuming one did.

    Good luck, and please share (with us) any info you gain in your quest.

  18. If you don't already have one, get hold of an Avanti parts book for parts numbers and

    illustrations of body parts... for example: http://tinyurl.com/26l62e3

    When you look for body parts, be aware Avanti II has a different wheel opening than the original Avanti's since the fender sits higher (body mounts are shimmed to raise the front end, so the stance of the Avanti II is more level than was the original, thus the wheel well of the outer fender skin had to be filled a few inches at the top to compensate). Most of the other panels for a 64 Avanti are likely the same as Avanti II (63 front panels are different).

    Looks like it took a pretty hard hit... the brake booster & master cylinder appear to be pushed

    upward, which means there may be firewall damage in addition to the extensive front & left quarter damage; right fender may be repairable, although the repairs would be noticeable on the inside. Frame needs to be checked dimensionally.

    As others mentioned, Dan Boothe at Nostalgic Motors is probably your best parts source.

    He may even be able to recommend a shop in your part of the country.

  19. Just a thought... I upgraded by installing a stock mid-70's Chevy HEI distributor and 8mm spark plug wires in my '71 Avanti years ago. It's been trouble-free.

    Can't recall any issues except I had to replace a resistor wire (pink) with a normal wire, use larger wire guides, and also had to find the proper connectors to attach the 12v feed and the tach wire to the distributor.

    Maybe someone else can chime in who has done an HEI swap recently.

  20. Thank you all for your help. This is a great club to belong to. Everyone is very helpful and I appreciate it. I've got the hoses on now and am driving the car. Thanks again!

    Steve

    ??????? It's not fair to leave us hanging, ya gotta give us feedback as part

    of the deal... what did you end up using?

×
×
  • Create New...