WayneC
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Posts posted by WayneC
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Yes, with mounts for a Chevy small block, of course. I believe '87 is the first year with a GM frame.
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Wayne...
FYI...Avanti II's came with the Borg Warner automatic until either late in the '70 model year or sometime in the '71 model year. My '70, a September 1970 build car, came with the B-W, as did Profaqualung's, which is an earlier '70 RQA model (mine is an RQB).
I understand that... I once owned a '66, and a '69 with BW's... I've also owned a '63, '71, '80, and '89 over the past 35 years.
My point was that the later cars had a GM tranny with a mechanical cable to their speedo, as did the Borg Warner Avanti's,
so barring some gear issue within the speedo, replacing a Borg Warner with a 200R4 should only require finding a suitable
cable and the proper tranny driven speedo gear to match his differential and tire size.
But I have not done a tranny swap, so maybe I misunderstood his question?
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All suggestions will be appreciated.
I don't see it as a serious problem, it should be just a matter of finding the correct length speedo cable and using
the right plastic driven speedo gear in the transmission, which is easily changed, it simply slides in/out.
After all, 70's Avanti II's came with a GM tranny and use a mechanically-driven speedo cable
and they work fine... question is whether the internal "gearing" of your speedo is the same as those later
Avanti II's, and I can't answer that, though I suspect it is. If you could get your hands on a later speedo you
could hook it up to your current cable and see if it matches your current mph reading at a specific rpm in high gear
(or vice-versa, connect your speedo in a car with a 200R4).
Worst case, perhaps you could get a newer speedo, disassemble it, and put your old speedo face in the newer speedo
(or farm that work out to a repair shop).
This listing might help: http://www.montess.org/speedo_gears.html
But that requires knowing which drive gear your 200R4 currently has, and that will be a function of the number of teeth on it...
perhaps a tranny shop could answer that, or if you know what car it came from, perhaps a Chevy parts dealer can look up
the part number.
There also are variable-speed adjustable adapter boxes that can be mounted inline somewhere on the
speedo cable route, but they are pretty expensive and comparatively bulky.
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Unfortunately my memory fails me, but I seem to recall that my '69 (gone some 20 years now) had plain stamped steel chromed valve covers (the type with a crease depression in the middle coming from each end and a raised rectangle in the center for a horsepower sticker, see below) and a Corvette chromed-cover air cleaner (sandwich-style, with a round black-painted base and chrome cover sandwiching an open-sided filter about 3 inches tall). Unfortunately, I can't swear to that, I can't find any pics, and I've had multiple Avanti's since that one, at least one of which (a '71) that I purposely changed to the older chrome Corvette air cleaner (it had a painted air cleaner and stamped steel painted valve covers).
Here's the style air cleaner I think my '69 had: http://tinyurl.com/56le5q
This is the style valve cover I think it had: http://tinyurl.com/6ysdys
There are factory Avanti II brochures in Thomas Bonsall's "Avanti" book that show the chrome air cleaner (pages 93 and 105), and there is a photo on page 88 that shows the chrome valve covers linked above, but with a different air cleaner with a six-legged star pattern on its top (I know my '69 did NOT have THAT air cleaner)
What did the judges tell you it SHOULD have?
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Hello all, Its been really nice here in north Ga. so I've been driving my 66 more than ever. My question is, have any one of you drivers of early Avantis found a sun visor from another car that can be used to replace the factory joke version? Really these sun shades have to be the poorest excuse for visors I've ever used. Thanks for any suggestions, dclewallen
Peruse your local junkyard with dimensions in hand :>}
Or, perhaps you could fashion an extension, like heat-molding an opaque or smokey sheet of plastic into a "J" shape and sliding it over the old visor.
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Here's a wild thought... if you could find a replacement speaker grill, you could consider destroying the original in an effort to remove it... start with the two screws you can reach, see if removing them gives you any wiggle-room to loosen the other two, or cut the center out of the grill to get at the second pair of screws; if you have to destroy the old grill, devise a way to remount the new one without using screws (silicone caulk, for example, or wire push-in clips, or those universal plastic fasteners used for door panels, etc that you can buy at the local parts store and which simply push in and grasp the hole).
I've only removed the radio on cars with the grill screws, and that was long ago. IIRC, I removed the original huge Stude AM radio (in a '66 Avanti, I think) by removing the grill and slightly enlarging the dash grill opening, barely enough to wriggle the radio out, yet not removing
any material that could be seen after the grill was in place... not easy, but do-able; the smaller replacement stereo was an easy install.
And, are you certain there ARE 4 screws in the speaker grill? It's possible there are tabs or some other method of attachment, such that the grill is slid into place on one end, then nuts used to secure the screws on the other end.
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My 85 has over 100,000 miles and a couple of years ago I spent way too much money to have a oldsmobile rack and pinion steering system put in. Now it is shot and I am looking for any imput as to what to do: return to the origional or try somthing else. IMHO the origional design has endless opportunities to encourage poor steering. Looking for any constructive suggestions. Thanks Bob
Can't you just get the Olds setup rebuilt?
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The exterior rubber moulding on my Moonroof 78 II is shot. Need to replace. Went thru the SI catalog but could not find. Anyone know where I can get and a part # ? Also, any tricks on how to install would be appreciated.
Thx, Jerry
Can't help directly, but I have a couple of suggestions...
Try Nostalgic Motorcars at 800-avanti1 midweek (their website seems to be kaput, and I know they aren't open every day)
If they can't help, see if you can slice a cross-section of the weatherstrip to measure, then try perusing this vendor catalog for replacement candidates: http://tinyurl.com/57vt5x
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I would like to know if all the small block Chevy engines installed in Avanti II's were black
or were any ever painted Chevy orange from the factory?
Thanks in advance for the infornmation!!
My '71 Avanti had an orange engine. Chevy switched V8 color from the 1955 thru 1976 "chevy orange" to "corporate blue" for 1977 engines.
If you have an eBay sign-on, use this link to look at what appears to be an original 1976 Avanti with an orange engine:
Here's a 1977 Avanti... if you look closely, in one of the engine pics it has a (faded) blue intake manifold:
I'm not sure when Chevy went to black engines, but I think it was sometime around when they started using aluminum heads.
Rebuilt engines could be whatever color the rebuilder used (assuming he wasn't "restoring" the engine to original), black being a common color.
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The build sheet info will be interesting. I am away from home at the moment, and will be for awhile,
so I don't have access to my "reference library" :>)
But, a search of the web came up with this hit that says your engine might be a replacement 307ci for a
full-size Chevy w/automatic (or possibly a Chevelle or Malibu or Nova, which used 307's)...
http://www.nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-codes/che...es-suffix-4.php
13702I is simply a sequential number used for replacement/OTC engines
That would probably not be an engine that Avanti Motors installed, which is why the
build sheet info would be nice to have. It wouldn't be unusual for the engine of a 1971 Avanti to have
been replaced (I have a '71, and I replaced my original engine about 20 years ago with an '84 350ci)
Where (what location) did you get the "D101 stamp"? Are you aware that there is a raised
casting number and casting date on the rear of the engine? They're atop the engine flange for the bellhousing...
IIRC, casting number is on the (upper) driver side and date code on the (upper) passenger side.
Head casting numbers and dates might give you additional clues, but you have to remove the
valve covers to find them (center of the top of the head).
Dan Booth may be knowledgeable on the engine codes, as he seems to know just about everything
about these old Avanti's.
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I've not done it, but I seem to remember someone doing this on a Jaguar XJS, although I can't find the post.
It might also have used the cigar lighter hole.
My suggestion would be to convert an ashtray (insert) in some manner, such that the cup holder is affixed
atop the ashtray itself and can be simply removed as a unit and the original ashtray replaced to bring the car back to original.
With the right design, you could funnel any condensation down into the ashtray to keep water off the console.
Another approach might be a cupholder design that would flip up and out of the center console glovebox between the seats,
such that the cup holder would end up resting above the front end of the console cover when deployed, and hide inside the
console glovebox when retracted. it could be supported by the front vertical surface of the glovebox, or fastened to
the underside of the glovebox lid.
If you could get hold of a spare console glovebox lid, you could simply cut a hole in it's top and use an insert cup holder,
like this one... http://tinyurl.com/5q9atd
Another possibility might be to design a curved thick gauge sheetmetal bracket that would attach via the same 4 screws
as the radio speaker grill (using rubber washers to keep from damaging the grill), curve down on each side and over the
vertical console so that the radio controls could be easily reached, then joined to cradle a cup or two... if crafted smoothly
and polished, it could then be chromed.
Try this search on eBay and use your imagination to figure out how some of those designs could be adapted to the Avanti,
there are probably a lot of ways to neatly skin this cat...
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The key point for me is the city driving <snip>
Wendell
Karl... forgive my ignorance, but why did you change from a 200R4 to a 700R4?
Wendell... I've been told the best thing for mileage in city driving is to always keep the tach
under 2000 rpm, even on acceleration. Might help to shift to neutral at long signals, also.
Or, you could install an LT1 or LS1 (for fuel injection) along with a matching automatic :>)
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So I have an '81 Avanti II and I need to replace the prop valve and the 2 front rubber brake hoses. I can't get ahold of Nostalgic so I'm trying to figure out what parts they really are. I found a mopar unit for the 72 Charger & several other models that LOOKS the same but I'd like to find out before I drop $100 on it. Same thing with the hoses they seem to be from a similar vehicle as in 60's/70's plymouth/dodge stuff. Any help guys?
Nostalgic is open mon-thurs 10-4:30 eastern
I don't have an 81, but I'll try to help... are you sure your car has a proportioning valve? I don't think my '80 has a
proportioning valve... didn't you mean master cylinder? But, perhaps your car is different, or maybe it has
non-original front brakes?
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/repavIIMC.html (reference for master cylinders)
When I replaced the M/C in my '80 I had to use pipe thread adapters/reducers because the threaded holes in the
M/C weren't the same size as the connectors on my lines. That new master cylinder was listed for a 68 full-size
Ford, shown as #CEN 130.61028 on my receipt (doesn't mean much to me, but it might mean something to
your parts vendor)
I remember putting a new M/C in a '71 once, without using pipe thread adapters, and an annotation in my
parts manual says "same as 67-69 Chrysler full-size with front discs" (couldn't find a receipt with a part number...
possibly "NAPA 36259" which is a number also annotated in my parts book, and the NAPA number may be the
same as the EIS "industry standard" number for brake parts).
I have a notation for the front flex lines, which I think are the same as original Stude:
NAPA 36614 (11146 for the rear hose)
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<snip>
Anyway would appreciate any and all info on the 1980 model and thanks..Tom
Aside from the engine, transmission, wheels, seats, upholstery, steering column, front bumper extensions, hand brake
handle setup in the console, seatbelts, sunroof, and some switches, most parts on your 80 are the same as the original
Studebaker Avanti (with a fender insert above each front wheel to deal with the front end sitting higher).
The chassis is all Studebaker Avanti.
I don't know of anyplace you can find info on the 1980 in particular. I own one myself
(a solid low-mile driver car, but I haven't driven it much nor done much work on it since I bought it)....
I've also owned other years (63, 66, 69, 71, and 89).
There were no parts, shop, or owners manuals written specifically for the various Avanti II models.
Compared to other low-production specialty cars, we're lucky to have as much info as we DO have.
Best source of info is the original Stude shop manual and parts book, which can still be obtained
from vendors or eBay, and of course the pertinent Chevy manuals for the engine and tranny.
There are a couple of books on Avanti, but mostly they consist of reprints of sales brochures
and magazine articles.
There are several vendors who handle Avanti parts, the most comprehensive of which is Nostalgic Motor Cars
(Dan Booth, the owner, is probably the most knowledgeable person you can find on the pre-84 Avanti's).
Other vendors include Studebaker International http://www.studebaker-intl.com/ , Dave Thibeault 978-897-3158,
Myers Studebaker http://www.myersstudebaker.com/ and SASCO http://studeparts.com/
...and there are specialty vendors like Silvertone Exhaust, Classic Enterprises, and Turner Brakes, among others.
Join the Avanti Owners Assoc, they put out a nice quarterly "Avanti" magazine with helpful articles, and someone offers a CD
that has an index to the articles that have appeared in the past issues (but I haven't heard of a CD that contains reprints
of the issues). Most of the vendors mentioned above advertise in the Avanti Magazine.
Here are a few useful websites:
http://www.studebaker-info.org/
And this web forum, of course.
Avanti II wheels are typical Ford/Mopar 15" wheels of the 70's, with a 5-lug 4.5" pattern and about a 3.5" to 4" backspace;
my '80 has wire wheels (a factory option), but I'm partial to the look of the 7" wide 70's mustang-style Magnum 500 wheels myself...
http://www.mustangfactory.net/proddetail.p...-A&cat=1341
Here's a few more styles I like:
http://www.newstalgiawheel.com/american_racing_wheel.asp
http://www.coolwheels.com/product_display....FTOKEN=58118907
What would you like to know about your 1980?
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Hi out there,I'm a new kid on the block here and have a question about my 1980 Avanti " SPEEDOMETER"..What a laugh . The car suppose to run 150 + MPH and I have an 85 max speedometer..What's up wiht that? Any input? and I figure the "UGLY " protrusion from under the front bumper must be the results of out ,oh so bright law makers and their idea of a 5 MPH bumper ..Anyone make any mod's on these items? I have a 0-160 mph speedometer ( from another Avanti) I'm wanting to change out . I have an auto Tx. ( 400 I'm guessing with the 350 eng.).What will be needed for the Tx. gear (to speedometer) size ie , number of teeth etc. Glad to hear from any one with solutions..Thanks..
Well, "Hi" back at you. Are you new to Avanti's?
I may be wrong, because my memory fails me in my later years, but I think the speedo may be limited to 85mph for the same reason you have the weird bumpers... federal law at the time (freeway speeds were 55mph, and I seem to recall that the speedos were purposely limited, and some cars even had max speed governors/limiters).
How often do you go over 85mph? Don't worry, if you get the car up to 150mph and the tires don't blow, the highway patrol will let you know (in writing) how fast you were going :>)
The law said 5mph bumpers, it was up to the automakers to decide how they'd do it, and Avanti Motors didn't have a huge development budget to work with (unlike Ford, Chrysler, and GM) so this was their quick fix until 1984.
The tranny gear for the speedo cable is not related directly to the speedometer, it's related to the differential ratio and tire size, so I don't think you'll need to change the gear... here again, I may be having a senior moment, but I think I'm correct. If the new speedo is off, you can probably have a speedo repair shop adjust/calibrate it.
Some folks have removed the front bumper extensions and camouflaged the remaining ugly holes with driving or fog lights mounted where the extensions were removed.
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Haven't done either, my opinion is that the painted bumper approach looks kinda cheap, but then I tend to
be a purist when it comes to classic car exteriors; the door locks can be done inexpensively without
removing/shaving, which would require the car (or at least the doors) to be repainted... all you need to do
is tie motors into the same mechanisms that the inside lock knobs use...
universal kits are available that could be adapted.
As an example, I think the following 2 kits could be used together to accomplish the job, you just need to
find a place on the inside door panel to securely mount the motors, fabricate some control rods or flex cables,
and perhaps a couple of levers, then find a place to mount the receiver and run the wires to the motors.
And you can still use the key if the battery runs down:
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I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for the window switches on a 1971 avanti.I would appreciate the help. thanks
I've been mulling over your post for a couple of days... wish I could be more helpful, but I don't have a diagram and I don't have enough knowledge to draw one for you, but here's some thoughts:
What is the problem you are trying to resolve?
Is the motor dead, or can you hear a hum or other evidence that it's trying to work; do you get an amperage draw on the dash guage when the switch is operated; is power getting to and through the switch, etc. If neither window works in either direction, and they both stopped working at the same time, then the problem is likely upstream of the window switches, in a connection, fuse, circuit breaker, or relay. If the window doesn't work, but draws amperage and you can see the door panel arm rest physically move in or out an inch or more when the motor is operated, then the fiberglass inner door panel is fatigue-cracked/damaged and the window mechanism mounting points have moved so that the regulator is binding. If a P/W window motor isn't functioning, you will probably need to remove the door panel and find out if power is reaching the motor when the switch is pressed with the ignition on. In fact, if one switch IS working, it may be useful to remove both door panels to compare (using an ohmmeter) to see what is or isn't working the same (or getting power) between the good side and the bad side.
Removing the motor itself is a tough job, I did it a couple of times some years ago, but can't recall much about how I did it. I think I had to take the entire regulator out to remove the motor. The shop manual covers removal of the window regulator. The motors are all but unobtainable; some motor rebuilders will tackle repairs, but it won't be cheap, perhaps around $200. If power isn't getting to the motor, then you need to check upstream connections to see if power reaches the switch and/or the relay and/or the circuit breaker (cb would render both windows inoperative).
I think the power window wiring in a 71 is the same as the original Avanti, and the wiring harness is shown on page 192 of the parts manual. But, the wiring diagram in the shop manual doesn't show the P/W motors.
If you don't have a parts manual, perhaps this description may help get you started on troubleshooting, although frankly I am confused on some points myself:
The Stude shop manual shows a metal rectangular P/W motor relay (maybe 2 inches long by 1h x 1w) high on the inner driver-side fender
(a foot or so forward of the firewall), with a slightly smaller P/W circuit breaker just forward of it... in '71 the (larger) relay is relocated to the horizontal surface atop the firewall on the driver side, while the circuit breaker is in the same place, on the driver side inner fender just outboard of the master cylinder. The relay has a terminal for battery power, a ground strap attached to one of the mounting screws, and 2 other terminals. I think that when the ignition switch is turned on, the relay allows power to flow through to the P/W switches via (green?) wires from the relay into each of the doors. Some testing with an ohmmeter should tell you whether power is flowing in and out of the cb and the relay.
The relay attaches into the main wiring harness, so the wire colors I mention may not be readily identifiable, and the same relay also powers the sunroof (if you have one) in the same manner as the windows, so those wires will be in the harness also.
Each window switch has 4 wires (orange? and yellow?) to a P/W window motor... of course, the driver side has 2 power window switches,
so there is another pair of wires connecting the driver-side switch to the passenger side P/W switch.
Frankly I am not clear on why there are 4 wires to the driver door motor... it may be that the switch doesn't carry the full amperage of the motor but rather it just triggers the relay to send 12v down the correct wire to the P/W motor and to ground the other wire, or (this would be my guess) perhaps it uses a pair of wires to share the amperage rather than a single heavy wire with a single heavy-duty switch contact. You should be able to tell something about that wiring once the switch is removed and you can look at the backside and experiment with an ohmmeter.
Whether it is done directly through the window switch or not, activating the switch sends 12v to one side of the attached window motor on one wire (or wire pair), and grounds a second wire (via a white wire from the switch to ground?); depending on whether you are raising or lowering the window, the + or - polarity (12v or ground) of the wires reverses. Again, a little experimentation with an ohmeter on the backside of a switch should make things clearer.
Here are some related links:
http://www.studebaker-info.org/svcl/J-1963-10/j-1963-10.jpg
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Congratulations! Hard to think it won't be a perfect car with that low mileage on it.
I owned a 24k-mile 89 briefly about 15 years ago (got laid off shortly after buying it
so I sold it as a quick way to reduce my expenses); over the years I've owned 63, 66, 69, 71,
and 80 Avantis (still have the 71 and 80), so I understand your enthusiasm and I'm happy to
hear that there are still folks out there dreaming about Avanti's.
I look forward to seeing the pics
Wayne
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The remote starter should have two wired clips...one goes to the large terminal that the battery cable is connected to, and the other wire is clipped to the small terminal marked "S" (starter). You don't want the small terminal marked "R" (resistor).
There are remote solenoid kits sold for GM starters...many with GM chassis motorhomes install them, but it's not necessary unless you want to.
Actually, my '66 Avanti II had a factory connector in the wiring that goes to the starter, and it may be easier to connect at that point rather than crawl under the car. The wires exit the main harness just forward of the passenger side hood latch catch, and the connector is probably near or beneath the windshield washer fluid bag (if you have one)... mine had a 3-wire flat rubberized connector just a few inches below the main harness. Once while on a long trip, I had an ignition switch failure (starter position only), that prevented me from starting the car; I turned the ignition switch to "on", then separated the connector halves just slightly and used a pocket knife blade to short across two of the terminals in the connector to start the car during the rest of the trip. I can't tell you which 2 of the 3 wires to connect to the remote starter switch, but a little experimentation should yield the answer.
If you want to make this solution elegant, you may be able to find a pair of the same type 3-wire trailer-style connectors at your local auto supply store, joined together by 3 wires, so you only need to cut the two pertinent wires and splice your remote switch wires to the cut wires... now when you want to use the remote starter, you just uncouple the factory connectors and plug your new connectors into them.
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You might look into the floor reinforcements sold by Classic Enterprises. They call it a seat anchor repair device and maybe you could drill mounting holes a bit higher to achieve the seat angle you want.
I really never noticed that the seat back was not adjustable, guess it just felt fine as-is.
In looking at that bracket on the Classic Enterprises website ( http://www.classicent.com/avanti.php ), it appears you could make a pair of small steel "h"-shaped brackets (as opposed to "H" shaped) to raise the front of the seat... just provide a hole in the bottom left of the "h" for the old mount hole, and a second hole above it for the the seat tab bolt
(or a long vertical slot and use serrated clamping washers for adjustment); you might also need a pair of tapered solid shims for the rear seat mounts.
I haven't had the seats out of my car, but if they use the old Stude mounting sliders, it may be possible to simply
place shims between the seat and the slider assembly in the front (you would have to remove the seat and take a look to see if that's possible, I don't even know if the sliders are bolted or welded to the seat bottom frame).
Yet another possibility, cheaper than replacing the seats though a lot more involved, would be to find a seat base for
a luxury car that has adjusting motors (like my Jaguar XJ40 sedan), figure a way to mount/adapt the seat to it,
and it to the floor, then wire it up and install the Jag seat switches in the side of the console for sliding, tilting, and raising the seat.
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I agree with Gunslinger.
Look for a nice grey coating (not black) in the tailpipe ends (after an extended run on the road) as a check on proper fuel mixture.
Also, a bad spark plug wire/connection could cause the symptom (one cylinder not firing, but the engine will still run pretty smoothly on 7 cylinders and you might not notice it) so as Gunslinger suggests, pull the plugs and look for any wet or oil-coated electrodes.
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Is anyone making a replacement wood veneer kit yet for the center console area? The wood on this car's was removed and I'd like to replace it.
Jim K.
San Antonio, TX
Jim, thanks so much for your service!
I'm not sure anyone sells replacement console wood veneer, in fact I'm not even sure if the wood grain was
actual wood in 1979, or a vinyl decal.... but I can give you a couple of potential leads.
1. A company in Goleta, CA made some of the factory kits at one time... I don't think they still offer
off-the-shelf Avanti kits but they are still in the business and may be able to help you ($$$) or point you to
another supplier (they may even still have patterns)...
2. Dan Booth, owner of Nostalgic Motor Cars in Wixom, MI is an Avanti parts vendor who has been associated
with Avanti's since at least the early 70's... he started out repairing them and did some buying and selling
of used Avanti's on the side; later he became an authorized Avanti dealer, and when the Avanti factory changed ownership and moved from South Bend Indiana to Youngstown OH in the mid-80's, he bought out the factory parts stock for the Stude-framed (up to 1984) Avanti's and set up as a parts supplier. If anyone knows where to get a dash kit, he will! It's possible he has them, but I doubt that. His website (avantiparts.net) has been out of order for quite a while, under an extremely extended reconstruction, but you can generally reach him at 248-349-4884 between 10 and 4:30 est, mon-thurs; they do have an 800 number, but they ask that tech calls be made at your expense so as to not tie up their order lines. Or you can email them: info@avantiparts.net
3. There is a vendor advertising that he makes kits for '86-'91 Avanti's; perhaps he knows if anyone supplies
them for earlier Avanti's: Michael Couture 260-829-1283
Let us know how you make out in this quest,
Wayne
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I had them re-ordered a master cylinder for a 69 dodge Monaco. I hope to have it in this week.
Tony
I have a note in my parts manual that says the '65 to '71 Avanti takes an EIS 64874 master cylinder
(EIS is an industry standard, and manufacturers list their M/C's that meet the standard numbers)
Another note says the '71 takes the same master cylinder as a "67-69 full-size Chrysler with disk brakes",
which is what I ordered about 15 years ago, the last time I changed it out on my '71 (I also went to Dot 5
silicone fluid at that time, when I also replaced the wheel cylinders and flex hoses)...
hopefully the 69 Dodge Monaco M/C will do the trick. You could also have the original professionally rebuilt
with a stainless steel or brass bore.
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Here are some numbers I have in my notes, but I haven't bought them so I can't swear they are correct,
nor am I familiar with changes that may have occurred in various years of the Avanti II:
shoes
EIS #ES449R or Bendix 173 shoes
cylinders
Wagner FD41451 or 13/16 rear cylinders from 61-66 Volvo P
drums
Kelsey Hayes #57628-A (but listed for years 76-81, so beware)
BPD-315360-R & BPD-315359-L (but listed for 67-70, so beware) (BPD may be "Bendix Parts Division")
I agree that ordering through Nostalgic Motors would be your best/safest bet.
If you do purchase locally with success, please give us feedback on what worked.
Did you know there's another Avanti II ???
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
I was playing with a search engine on my computer and came across this:
http://www.aerospace-technology.com/projec...o/piaggio1.html