Posts posted by WayneC
The exterior rubber moulding on my Moonroof 78 II is shot. Need to replace. Went thru the SI catalog but could not find. Anyone know where I can get and a part # ? Also, any tricks on how to install would be appreciated.
Can't help directly, but I have a couple of suggestions...
Try Nostalgic Motorcars at 800-avanti1 midweek (their website seems to be kaput, and I know they aren't open every day)
If they can't help, see if you can slice a cross-section of the weatherstrip to measure, then try perusing this vendor catalog for replacement candidates: http://tinyurl.com/57vt5x
I would like to know if all the small block Chevy engines installed in Avanti II's were black
or were any ever painted Chevy orange from the factory?
Thanks in advance for the infornmation!!
My '71 Avanti had an orange engine. Chevy switched V8 color from the 1955 thru 1976 "chevy orange" to "corporate blue" for 1977 engines.
If you have an eBay sign-on, use this link to look at what appears to be an original 1976 Avanti with an orange engine:
Here's a 1977 Avanti... if you look closely, in one of the engine pics it has a (faded) blue intake manifold:
I'm not sure when Chevy went to black engines, but I think it was sometime around when they started using aluminum heads.
Rebuilt engines could be whatever color the rebuilder used (assuming he wasn't "restoring" the engine to original), black being a common color.
The build sheet info will be interesting. I am away from home at the moment, and will be for awhile,
so I don't have access to my "reference library" :>)
But, a search of the web came up with this hit that says your engine might be a replacement 307ci for a
full-size Chevy w/automatic (or possibly a Chevelle or Malibu or Nova, which used 307's)...
13702I is simply a sequential number used for replacement/OTC engines
That would probably not be an engine that Avanti Motors installed, which is why the
build sheet info would be nice to have. It wouldn't be unusual for the engine of a 1971 Avanti to have
been replaced (I have a '71, and I replaced my original engine about 20 years ago with an '84 350ci)
Where (what location) did you get the "D101 stamp"? Are you aware that there is a raised
casting number and casting date on the rear of the engine? They're atop the engine flange for the bellhousing...
IIRC, casting number is on the (upper) driver side and date code on the (upper) passenger side.
Head casting numbers and dates might give you additional clues, but you have to remove the
valve covers to find them (center of the top of the head).
Dan Booth may be knowledgeable on the engine codes, as he seems to know just about everything
about these old Avanti's.
I've not done it, but I seem to remember someone doing this on a Jaguar XJS, although I can't find the post.
It might also have used the cigar lighter hole.
My suggestion would be to convert an ashtray (insert) in some manner, such that the cup holder is affixed
atop the ashtray itself and can be simply removed as a unit and the original ashtray replaced to bring the car back to original.
With the right design, you could funnel any condensation down into the ashtray to keep water off the console.
Another approach might be a cupholder design that would flip up and out of the center console glovebox between the seats,
such that the cup holder would end up resting above the front end of the console cover when deployed, and hide inside the
console glovebox when retracted. it could be supported by the front vertical surface of the glovebox, or fastened to
the underside of the glovebox lid.
If you could get hold of a spare console glovebox lid, you could simply cut a hole in it's top and use an insert cup holder,
like this one... http://tinyurl.com/5q9atd
Another possibility might be to design a curved thick gauge sheetmetal bracket that would attach via the same 4 screws
as the radio speaker grill (using rubber washers to keep from damaging the grill), curve down on each side and over the
vertical console so that the radio controls could be easily reached, then joined to cradle a cup or two... if crafted smoothly
and polished, it could then be chromed.
Try this search on eBay and use your imagination to figure out how some of those designs could be adapted to the Avanti,
there are probably a lot of ways to neatly skin this cat...
The key point for me is the city driving <snip>
Karl... forgive my ignorance, but why did you change from a 200R4 to a 700R4?
Wendell... I've been told the best thing for mileage in city driving is to always keep the tach
under 2000 rpm, even on acceleration. Might help to shift to neutral at long signals, also.
Or, you could install an LT1 or LS1 (for fuel injection) along with a matching automatic :>)
So I have an '81 Avanti II and I need to replace the prop valve and the 2 front rubber brake hoses. I can't get ahold of Nostalgic so I'm trying to figure out what parts they really are. I found a mopar unit for the 72 Charger & several other models that LOOKS the same but I'd like to find out before I drop $100 on it. Same thing with the hoses they seem to be from a similar vehicle as in 60's/70's plymouth/dodge stuff. Any help guys?
Nostalgic is open mon-thurs 10-4:30 eastern
I don't have an 81, but I'll try to help... are you sure your car has a proportioning valve? I don't think my '80 has a
proportioning valve... didn't you mean master cylinder? But, perhaps your car is different, or maybe it has
non-original front brakes?
http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/repavIIMC.html (reference for master cylinders)
When I replaced the M/C in my '80 I had to use pipe thread adapters/reducers because the threaded holes in the
M/C weren't the same size as the connectors on my lines. That new master cylinder was listed for a 68 full-size
Ford, shown as #CEN 130.61028 on my receipt (doesn't mean much to me, but it might mean something to
your parts vendor)
I remember putting a new M/C in a '71 once, without using pipe thread adapters, and an annotation in my
parts manual says "same as 67-69 Chrysler full-size with front discs" (couldn't find a receipt with a part number...
possibly "NAPA 36259" which is a number also annotated in my parts book, and the NAPA number may be the
same as the EIS "industry standard" number for brake parts).
I have a notation for the front flex lines, which I think are the same as original Stude:
NAPA 36614 (11146 for the rear hose)
Anyway would appreciate any and all info on the 1980 model and thanks..Tom
Aside from the engine, transmission, wheels, seats, upholstery, steering column, front bumper extensions, hand brake
handle setup in the console, seatbelts, sunroof, and some switches, most parts on your 80 are the same as the original
Studebaker Avanti (with a fender insert above each front wheel to deal with the front end sitting higher).
The chassis is all Studebaker Avanti.
I don't know of anyplace you can find info on the 1980 in particular. I own one myself
(a solid low-mile driver car, but I haven't driven it much nor done much work on it since I bought it)....
I've also owned other years (63, 66, 69, 71, and 89).
There were no parts, shop, or owners manuals written specifically for the various Avanti II models.
Compared to other low-production specialty cars, we're lucky to have as much info as we DO have.
Best source of info is the original Stude shop manual and parts book, which can still be obtained
from vendors or eBay, and of course the pertinent Chevy manuals for the engine and tranny.
There are a couple of books on Avanti, but mostly they consist of reprints of sales brochures
and magazine articles.
There are several vendors who handle Avanti parts, the most comprehensive of which is Nostalgic Motor Cars
(Dan Booth, the owner, is probably the most knowledgeable person you can find on the pre-84 Avanti's).
Other vendors include Studebaker International http://www.studebaker-intl.com/ , Dave Thibeault 978-897-3158,
Myers Studebaker http://www.myersstudebaker.com/ and SASCO http://studeparts.com/
...and there are specialty vendors like Silvertone Exhaust, Classic Enterprises, and Turner Brakes, among others.
Join the Avanti Owners Assoc, they put out a nice quarterly "Avanti" magazine with helpful articles, and someone offers a CD
that has an index to the articles that have appeared in the past issues (but I haven't heard of a CD that contains reprints
of the issues). Most of the vendors mentioned above advertise in the Avanti Magazine.
Here are a few useful websites:
And this web forum, of course.
Avanti II wheels are typical Ford/Mopar 15" wheels of the 70's, with a 5-lug 4.5" pattern and about a 3.5" to 4" backspace;
my '80 has wire wheels (a factory option), but I'm partial to the look of the 7" wide 70's mustang-style Magnum 500 wheels myself...
Here's a few more styles I like:
What would you like to know about your 1980?
Hi out there,I'm a new kid on the block here and have a question about my 1980 Avanti " SPEEDOMETER"..What a laugh . The car suppose to run 150 + MPH and I have an 85 max speedometer..What's up wiht that? Any input? and I figure the "UGLY " protrusion from under the front bumper must be the results of out ,oh so bright law makers and their idea of a 5 MPH bumper ..Anyone make any mod's on these items? I have a 0-160 mph speedometer ( from another Avanti) I'm wanting to change out . I have an auto Tx. ( 400 I'm guessing with the 350 eng.).What will be needed for the Tx. gear (to speedometer) size ie , number of teeth etc. Glad to hear from any one with solutions..Thanks..
Well, "Hi" back at you. Are you new to Avanti's?
I may be wrong, because my memory fails me in my later years, but I think the speedo may be limited to 85mph for the same reason you have the weird bumpers... federal law at the time (freeway speeds were 55mph, and I seem to recall that the speedos were purposely limited, and some cars even had max speed governors/limiters).
How often do you go over 85mph? Don't worry, if you get the car up to 150mph and the tires don't blow, the highway patrol will let you know (in writing) how fast you were going :>)
The law said 5mph bumpers, it was up to the automakers to decide how they'd do it, and Avanti Motors didn't have a huge development budget to work with (unlike Ford, Chrysler, and GM) so this was their quick fix until 1984.
The tranny gear for the speedo cable is not related directly to the speedometer, it's related to the differential ratio and tire size, so I don't think you'll need to change the gear... here again, I may be having a senior moment, but I think I'm correct. If the new speedo is off, you can probably have a speedo repair shop adjust/calibrate it.
Some folks have removed the front bumper extensions and camouflaged the remaining ugly holes with driving or fog lights mounted where the extensions were removed.
Haven't done either, my opinion is that the painted bumper approach looks kinda cheap, but then I tend to
be a purist when it comes to classic car exteriors; the door locks can be done inexpensively without
removing/shaving, which would require the car (or at least the doors) to be repainted... all you need to do
is tie motors into the same mechanisms that the inside lock knobs use...
universal kits are available that could be adapted.
As an example, I think the following 2 kits could be used together to accomplish the job, you just need to
find a place on the inside door panel to securely mount the motors, fabricate some control rods or flex cables,
and perhaps a couple of levers, then find a place to mount the receiver and run the wires to the motors.
And you can still use the key if the battery runs down:
I'm trying to find a wiring diagram for the window switches on a 1971 avanti.I would appreciate the help. thanks
I've been mulling over your post for a couple of days... wish I could be more helpful, but I don't have a diagram and I don't have enough knowledge to draw one for you, but here's some thoughts:
What is the problem you are trying to resolve?
Is the motor dead, or can you hear a hum or other evidence that it's trying to work; do you get an amperage draw on the dash guage when the switch is operated; is power getting to and through the switch, etc. If neither window works in either direction, and they both stopped working at the same time, then the problem is likely upstream of the window switches, in a connection, fuse, circuit breaker, or relay. If the window doesn't work, but draws amperage and you can see the door panel arm rest physically move in or out an inch or more when the motor is operated, then the fiberglass inner door panel is fatigue-cracked/damaged and the window mechanism mounting points have moved so that the regulator is binding. If a P/W window motor isn't functioning, you will probably need to remove the door panel and find out if power is reaching the motor when the switch is pressed with the ignition on. In fact, if one switch IS working, it may be useful to remove both door panels to compare (using an ohmmeter) to see what is or isn't working the same (or getting power) between the good side and the bad side.
Removing the motor itself is a tough job, I did it a couple of times some years ago, but can't recall much about how I did it. I think I had to take the entire regulator out to remove the motor. The shop manual covers removal of the window regulator. The motors are all but unobtainable; some motor rebuilders will tackle repairs, but it won't be cheap, perhaps around $200. If power isn't getting to the motor, then you need to check upstream connections to see if power reaches the switch and/or the relay and/or the circuit breaker (cb would render both windows inoperative).
I think the power window wiring in a 71 is the same as the original Avanti, and the wiring harness is shown on page 192 of the parts manual. But, the wiring diagram in the shop manual doesn't show the P/W motors.
If you don't have a parts manual, perhaps this description may help get you started on troubleshooting, although frankly I am confused on some points myself:
The Stude shop manual shows a metal rectangular P/W motor relay (maybe 2 inches long by 1h x 1w) high on the inner driver-side fender
(a foot or so forward of the firewall), with a slightly smaller P/W circuit breaker just forward of it... in '71 the (larger) relay is relocated to the horizontal surface atop the firewall on the driver side, while the circuit breaker is in the same place, on the driver side inner fender just outboard of the master cylinder. The relay has a terminal for battery power, a ground strap attached to one of the mounting screws, and 2 other terminals. I think that when the ignition switch is turned on, the relay allows power to flow through to the P/W switches via (green?) wires from the relay into each of the doors. Some testing with an ohmmeter should tell you whether power is flowing in and out of the cb and the relay.
The relay attaches into the main wiring harness, so the wire colors I mention may not be readily identifiable, and the same relay also powers the sunroof (if you have one) in the same manner as the windows, so those wires will be in the harness also.
Each window switch has 4 wires (orange? and yellow?) to a P/W window motor... of course, the driver side has 2 power window switches,
so there is another pair of wires connecting the driver-side switch to the passenger side P/W switch.
Frankly I am not clear on why there are 4 wires to the driver door motor... it may be that the switch doesn't carry the full amperage of the motor but rather it just triggers the relay to send 12v down the correct wire to the P/W motor and to ground the other wire, or (this would be my guess) perhaps it uses a pair of wires to share the amperage rather than a single heavy wire with a single heavy-duty switch contact. You should be able to tell something about that wiring once the switch is removed and you can look at the backside and experiment with an ohmmeter.
Whether it is done directly through the window switch or not, activating the switch sends 12v to one side of the attached window motor on one wire (or wire pair), and grounds a second wire (via a white wire from the switch to ground?); depending on whether you are raising or lowering the window, the + or - polarity (12v or ground) of the wires reverses. Again, a little experimentation with an ohmeter on the backside of a switch should make things clearer.
Here are some related links:
Congratulations! Hard to think it won't be a perfect car with that low mileage on it.
I owned a 24k-mile 89 briefly about 15 years ago (got laid off shortly after buying it
so I sold it as a quick way to reduce my expenses); over the years I've owned 63, 66, 69, 71,
and 80 Avantis (still have the 71 and 80), so I understand your enthusiasm and I'm happy to
hear that there are still folks out there dreaming about Avanti's.
I look forward to seeing the pics
The remote starter should have two wired clips...one goes to the large terminal that the battery cable is connected to, and the other wire is clipped to the small terminal marked "S" (starter). You don't want the small terminal marked "R" (resistor).
There are remote solenoid kits sold for GM starters...many with GM chassis motorhomes install them, but it's not necessary unless you want to.
Actually, my '66 Avanti II had a factory connector in the wiring that goes to the starter, and it may be easier to connect at that point rather than crawl under the car. The wires exit the main harness just forward of the passenger side hood latch catch, and the connector is probably near or beneath the windshield washer fluid bag (if you have one)... mine had a 3-wire flat rubberized connector just a few inches below the main harness. Once while on a long trip, I had an ignition switch failure (starter position only), that prevented me from starting the car; I turned the ignition switch to "on", then separated the connector halves just slightly and used a pocket knife blade to short across two of the terminals in the connector to start the car during the rest of the trip. I can't tell you which 2 of the 3 wires to connect to the remote starter switch, but a little experimentation should yield the answer.
If you want to make this solution elegant, you may be able to find a pair of the same type 3-wire trailer-style connectors at your local auto supply store, joined together by 3 wires, so you only need to cut the two pertinent wires and splice your remote switch wires to the cut wires... now when you want to use the remote starter, you just uncouple the factory connectors and plug your new connectors into them.
You might look into the floor reinforcements sold by Classic Enterprises. They call it a seat anchor repair device and maybe you could drill mounting holes a bit higher to achieve the seat angle you want.
I really never noticed that the seat back was not adjustable, guess it just felt fine as-is.
In looking at that bracket on the Classic Enterprises website ( http://www.classicent.com/avanti.php ), it appears you could make a pair of small steel "h"-shaped brackets (as opposed to "H" shaped) to raise the front of the seat... just provide a hole in the bottom left of the "h" for the old mount hole, and a second hole above it for the the seat tab bolt
(or a long vertical slot and use serrated clamping washers for adjustment); you might also need a pair of tapered solid shims for the rear seat mounts.
I haven't had the seats out of my car, but if they use the old Stude mounting sliders, it may be possible to simply
place shims between the seat and the slider assembly in the front (you would have to remove the seat and take a look to see if that's possible, I don't even know if the sliders are bolted or welded to the seat bottom frame).
Yet another possibility, cheaper than replacing the seats though a lot more involved, would be to find a seat base for
a luxury car that has adjusting motors (like my Jaguar XJ40 sedan), figure a way to mount/adapt the seat to it,
and it to the floor, then wire it up and install the Jag seat switches in the side of the console for sliding, tilting, and raising the seat.
I agree with Gunslinger.
Look for a nice grey coating (not black) in the tailpipe ends (after an extended run on the road) as a check on proper fuel mixture.
Also, a bad spark plug wire/connection could cause the symptom (one cylinder not firing, but the engine will still run pretty smoothly on 7 cylinders and you might not notice it) so as Gunslinger suggests, pull the plugs and look for any wet or oil-coated electrodes.
Is anyone making a replacement wood veneer kit yet for the center console area? The wood on this car's was removed and I'd like to replace it.
San Antonio, TX
Jim, thanks so much for your service!
I'm not sure anyone sells replacement console wood veneer, in fact I'm not even sure if the wood grain was
actual wood in 1979, or a vinyl decal.... but I can give you a couple of potential leads.
1. A company in Goleta, CA made some of the factory kits at one time... I don't think they still offer
off-the-shelf Avanti kits but they are still in the business and may be able to help you ($$$) or point you to
another supplier (they may even still have patterns)...
2. Dan Booth, owner of Nostalgic Motor Cars in Wixom, MI is an Avanti parts vendor who has been associated
with Avanti's since at least the early 70's... he started out repairing them and did some buying and selling
of used Avanti's on the side; later he became an authorized Avanti dealer, and when the Avanti factory changed ownership and moved from South Bend Indiana to Youngstown OH in the mid-80's, he bought out the factory parts stock for the Stude-framed (up to 1984) Avanti's and set up as a parts supplier. If anyone knows where to get a dash kit, he will! It's possible he has them, but I doubt that. His website (avantiparts.net) has been out of order for quite a while, under an extremely extended reconstruction, but you can generally reach him at 248-349-4884 between 10 and 4:30 est, mon-thurs; they do have an 800 number, but they ask that tech calls be made at your expense so as to not tie up their order lines. Or you can email them: email@example.com
3. There is a vendor advertising that he makes kits for '86-'91 Avanti's; perhaps he knows if anyone supplies
them for earlier Avanti's: Michael Couture 260-829-1283
Let us know how you make out in this quest,
I had them re-ordered a master cylinder for a 69 dodge Monaco. I hope to have it in this week.
I have a note in my parts manual that says the '65 to '71 Avanti takes an EIS 64874 master cylinder
(EIS is an industry standard, and manufacturers list their M/C's that meet the standard numbers)
Another note says the '71 takes the same master cylinder as a "67-69 full-size Chrysler with disk brakes",
which is what I ordered about 15 years ago, the last time I changed it out on my '71 (I also went to Dot 5
silicone fluid at that time, when I also replaced the wheel cylinders and flex hoses)...
hopefully the 69 Dodge Monaco M/C will do the trick. You could also have the original professionally rebuilt
with a stainless steel or brass bore.
Here are some numbers I have in my notes, but I haven't bought them so I can't swear they are correct,
nor am I familiar with changes that may have occurred in various years of the Avanti II:
EIS #ES449R or Bendix 173 shoes
Wagner FD41451 or 13/16 rear cylinders from 61-66 Volvo P
Kelsey Hayes #57628-A (but listed for years 76-81, so beware)
BPD-315360-R & BPD-315359-L (but listed for 67-70, so beware) (BPD may be "Bendix Parts Division")
I agree that ordering through Nostalgic Motors would be your best/safest bet.
If you do purchase locally with success, please give us feedback on what worked.
I can only give you a partial answer, I don't know enough to fully answer...
The expert on Avanti II through 1984 is Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motorcars in Wixom MI, 248-349-4884 mon-thurs 10am to 4:30pm eastern
The original Stude differentials, came only in these ratios, according to the parts manual:
Stude didn't make their own differentials, they used "Dana 44's" in Avanti
(Dana Corp, or Dana Spicer, is/was a parts supplier to the automobile makers and aftermarket).
I believe that all early Avanti II cars (at least up through '71) came with "Twin Traction" (also called posi, or
"Power Lok"), in either 3.31 or 3.54 ratios, but I don't know for certain whether that continued up through
your '83 model. I have an '80 that seems to have a high rear end ratio, but I never tried to find out the ratio,
and the spec/order sheet that came with the car does not mention it.
I'm surprised you weren't able to rotate the driveshaft with the wheels off the ground, but it's possible
the wheels need a strong resistance force to "unlock" (free) the axle shafts.
It's also possible that you need to rotate both rear wheels simultaneously; if that doesn't work, I'd suggest
marking the driveshaft and a tire and either:
1) have someone in the drivers seat put the tranny in low gear and apply the brakes lightly (to keep revs
down) and count driveshaft revs for one or more tire revolutions with the wheels off the ground, or
2) have someone move the car forward very slowly (brakes applied) while you watch from down at street
level to count how many times the driveshaft turns when the tire turns one or more full turns... get
creative and tie a weighted piece of brightly colored yarn to the driveshaft so you can see it flop down
each rev, or attach something that makes a noise each rev (as kids we used a playing card to make
a motor sound against the bicycle spokes)
You might also be able to estimate the ratio mathmatically if you have cruise control or a steady foot...
you could use freeway markers to determine what rpm is required to achieve exactly a timed one-minute mile.... an actual 60 miles/hr... on a level stretch and use the approx rolling diameter of your rear tire size to estimate how many turns the tires make in one mile, then divide that into the rpm to get a ratio (I'm assuming your tranny has a 1:1 ratio in drive... no overdrive... so engine rpm equals driveshaft rpm). For example, a 205/75-15 tire turns about 770 revs per mile, so if you needed to run at 3150 rpm to cover a mile in exactly one minute, then 3150/770 = 4.09 ratio; 2872 rpm is a 3.73 ratio, 2725 rpm is a 3:54 ratio, etc... not exact, but probably close enough to determine which stock ratio you most likely have. If you run 215/70-15 tires, the magic number to use in the calculations is 775 revs/mile, 225/60-15 is 812 revs/mile, etc. Caveat: I haven't tried it, this is purely theoretical.
Here's the deal. These lights are hard to come by anymore because all cars for the past 20+ years have had them installed - so who needs replacements? When I say hard to come by I really mean your choices are quite limited. Checker, Advance auto, Whitney et. all do have selections (do it by internet). Trouble is they don't always distinguish between inside/outside capabilities.
Make sure the light aims "straight-out" not down or up / this can be difficult if trying to mount inside the Avanti extreme-swept-angle rear window. If you do mount inside the light should pretty much 'enclose the window area so as not to waste any light or get any glaring reflections inside and out. There are some 3rd brake lights available that go for $100+ for outside mount (mine was $16 JCW). You could, if you dare, develope your own 3rd brake light - say an LED trailer-type set-up (oval).
Now for the most important part. You will need a LOGIC CIRCUIT. Either get it with the light or order it separately if the light doesn't come with it (not expensive).. The logic circuit tells the 3rd brake light that it is only a brake light and not a turn signal (2 wire vs 3 wire 'amber' set-up). You will hook the logic circuit and 3rd brake light to either the left or right brake lights which also happen to be TURN signal lights.
I haven't done this, but 2 comments...
1) the fact that so many cars in the past 20 years have a third brake light may actually make it easier;
simply visit a junkyard where they let you wander around and you may find one you like that looks as if it will fit your Avanti ... in fact, you could make a cardboard template of the rear window slant from your car, bring it along and trial-fit it in a junk car that has a third brake light that looks as though it would work.
2) although a logic unit might be nice (it could allow you to do all your wiring in the trunk), I don't think you'd need one if you can isolate the stoplight switch output wire (designated #15 on the wiring diagram, a red wire with a white trailer) in front of the directional signal control (goes to a 6-wire body harness connector specifically for the turn signal control, under the dash at the steering column, so you could intercept it there)... splice into that wire and test your light, then run your new wire back under the carpeting alongside the main body harness (next to the driveshaft hump) and up behind the rear seat & under the rear shelf to where your new rear deck brake light will be mounted; then run a separate ground wire from there to the nearest frame ground, and install your new brake light.
According to the website :
a spacer ring should be placed between the hub and wheel. I have been unsuccessful in locating spacer rings for this purpose. Does anyone know where such rings are available?
I haven't used them, but Google is your friend; try searching on "hubcentric rings"
... here are a couple of hits, but you need to take your measurements in millimeters:
Here's a table for converting inches to mm: http://tinyurl.com/37bw79
My guess is that if the wheels do not use a centering-type lugnut, eg, if the lugnuts
for alloy wheels are not the tapered type that center the wheel holes on the studs
(the old steel wheels used an "acorn" style nut in a wheel hole designed for them),
but rather just clamp down on the outer face of the wheel, then you probably need
a hubcentric spacer ring.
Be aware that some alloy wheels may need to have the center hole enlarged (machined)
to fit over your hub.
I can't help directly, I haven't experienced your symptoms, but here's a few thoughts...
1. How do you know "it's in the fiberglass itself" and not a delayed result of incomplete surface prep?
(it still could be the old paint job showing the delayed results of less-than-perfect surface preparation)
2. Do you have an engine temp gauge, and if so, how hot IS the engine running? What ARE those signs of heat?
3. Do you have an insulation blanket on the underside of the hood?
4. Is the weatherstrip in place/intact across the underside of the rear of the hood?
5. Any oil being slung onto the underside of the fiberglass by the engine can eventually leach through.
6. An electric fan with a temp sensor or a delay switch could probably be rigged to move air through/out of
the engine compartment for a few minutes after the engine is switched off, which is when engine heat
reaches its zenith.
7. I recall that the factory was having paint issues, although I think it was in 84 rather than 83; seems to me
it turned out that oil was getting into the painting process via a leak in the compressed air system, but I
don't remember details; the factory repainted a bunch of cars on warranty, but without extreme measures
to get all traces of oil out of the fiberglass, the paint problem may recur sooner or later.
The disc brakes used by Studebaker and Avanti Motors present no problem to any good tech.
I agree. But the pads are very important... I've had some very poor experiences with
pads from local parts stores. I buy mine from Nostalgic Motors now. Also very important is that the
pad's path through the caliper is clean/smooth, that the rotors are not glazed or burned and at least 0.330 inches thick where the pads contact them, cylinder bores are not corroded, and that the calipers are properly shimmed to ensure they are parallel to the rotor and have equal spacing from it on both sides. There is no sound warning when the pads are getting thin (like there is in many modern cars), so you do have to check them occasionally and replace them when they get worn down.
I have a '78 Avanti II and am considering some projects over the next few months.
1. to restore rake to similar to original, has anyone heard of "drop spindles"? A buddy who talked to someone at a show heard about it.
2. I'd like to add an original style hood ornament and see them in Avanti Int'l -- anyone done that and how do they attach?
3. Any advice on the Turner brake conversion? My car can use some extra stopping power.
4. Are there modifications or kits available to reduce steering turns, lock to lock?
1. Yes, I've heard of drop spindles, usually in reference to Ford model A hot rods; but no, I haven't heard of
dropped spindles being available for Stude Avanti suspensions, but it's possible I suppose. Or, you could install an LT1 fuel setup to provide more hood-to-engine clearance, and remove (progressively more toward the front end) some of the body spacers; that would be very expensive, but coupled with an overdrive tranny the fuel economy should improve greatly. Either way, the fender openings would overlap the tire tops a bit, which might be problematic if you hit a bump while turning into the driveway! You could also consider a lower profile tire on the front only, if you can find any to fit without rubbing... but I wouldn't recommend mixing tire profiles/tread pattern on the same vehicle.
Dropped spindles are probably available for later Avanti's built on GM chassis (87-up).
Check this link (IndyJimW's post in the middle of the page) http://tinyurl.com/2azfa2
If you know a talented machinist, it might be possible to machine a Stude drop spindle from billet steel if
you provide him with pristine original spindles to use to take measurements (high $$$$, though). But if
I'm not mistaken (I might be), spindles are machined from drop-forged castings to add strength.
2. The hood ornament has six posts that extend through the hood, with stamped nuts on the underside; it
should just be a matter of finding an Avanti owner with the ornament who'll let you remove his ornament and make a paper pattern from his hood of the hole positions.
3. Stock brakes are fine if kept in good maintenance and you use decent pads. I haven't done the Turner conversion, but many have and like it. One Avanti enthusiast decided he wanted newer technology than the Turner kit and designed his own conversion; you might try contacting him to see if you like his approach better and whether he sells the adapters (last I recall, he was trying to determine if it was a viable side business). Try this link to the Stude Avanti board for more info: http://tinyurl.com/2h8qlf
4. Yes, $100 here: http://tinyurl.com/2e3scu (bottom of that page; stock steering knuckle with spindle is in the center of that page)
in 1984-91 Avanti
Can't you just get the Olds setup rebuilt?