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WayneC

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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Could be just dirt around the pads, keeping one against the rotor after the pedal is released,

    ...or one pad so worn that the piston is sticking in the out position.

    1. Check the rotor faces for radial rust streaks from rainwater if the car hasn't been driven a lot recently;

    since you aren't experiencing a pull to one side, this may be the most likely cause.

    If not, and changing the pads doesn't cure it...

    2. With car jacked up and wheel removed, grip opposite sides of the rotor and wiggle it to

    check for looseness (bad/loose wheel bearings); do that again at other clock positions;

    also make sure the rotor spins freely without binding.

    3. Check to see that the rotor is centered in the caliper (use feeler gauges between the

    caliper and the rotor front & rear, on both sides)... if the measurements are not all really close,

    there are shims available for the caliper mounting bolts to correct the positioning.

    4. When a brake booster goes bad, it can cause the brake pads to stay snugged against the rotor

    (generally you'll also notice there's less than the normal brake pedal movement before the brakes firm)

    5. Measure the thickness of the rotors where the pads contact it; I believe the minimum thickness

    is 0.3 inches (don't have my shop manual handy, you'll find the minimum dimension there)

    6. Check for a warped rotor by attaching a dial indicator to the caliper and measuring runout as

    the rotor is rotated; again, the minimum allowed run-out is in the shop manual.

    7. A very slight brake fluid leak conceivably could cause pad "skipping" on the rotor surface (not likely).

    Good luck.

  2. Would like vacuum reading - can't keep car running long enough to check. Same with timing check - car won't idle on its own. Yes, car has anti-diesel/run-on solenoid mounted on carb. It's electrically operated and is functional ('bench test').

    Vacuum hose re-do and reman carb installation were done to resolve poor idle when cold and occasional bog/flat-spot when pressing accelerator. I do (just about) anything to have those 'problems' back!

    Seems to me you've eliminated the carburetor as the problem. Still sounds like a vacuum issue.

    If you haven't monkeyed with the distributor internally, or the intake manifold, or played with timing or spark plug wires (eg, you haven't done ANYTHING with the ignition since before you changed the carb), and it's secured tightly and the vacuum can on the distributor holds a vacuum applied by mouth, I would not consider it suspect (although it can't hurt to make sure it's aligned with #1 cylinder wire at TDC on the compression stroke). I would consider those new vacuum valves as suspect, though. Assuming you've convinced yourself that the vacuum hoses are connected as the diagrams show as proper, and there are not any "extra" nipples on the new valves, and since re-installing the old carb didn't fix/change the problem, it would seem prudent to backtrack on the other changes you made (like the vacuum valves). I might even be tempted to block off the holes the vacuum valves are in and simply run a ported-vacuum hose to the distributor for a test run. Also, you did not make any other alterations elsewhere, like a new heat riser valve, or other exhaust changes, etc, did you?

  3. Ideas on where to start?

    Is there a vacuum hose diagram?

    ...any and all suggestions and help is appreciated!

    It does sound like a vacuum issue, or that the choke valve is flapping loose or a butterfly valve is

    sticking or rubbing on the carb base gasket.

    I'd suggest you start by re-installing the old carburetor (if you have it) to see if it acts the same

    as the reman'd one.

    IIRC, there is a temp-operated vacuum "tree" valve sticking out of the

    thermostat housing that has 2 or 3 emissions hoses on it, and the correct match of hoses to

    ports is undoubtedly critical.

    Your best bet on a vacuum diagram would probably be to get hold of a shop

    manual for a Corvette or Chevy of that vintage.

    Or try this webpage: http://tinyurl.com/2bps5j

    Or find a stock Chevy of that vintage to look at.

    Or maybe one of these books:

    http://tinyurl.com/2h2xbq

    http://tinyurl.com/25le6a

    http://tinyurl.com/ypkynk

    http://tinyurl.com/284g9j

  4. I don't know the definitive answer, but when I confront situations like yours,

    I usually reason "why not?, can't hurt, ...might help", and it's inexpensive.

    Anything sitting atop a hot engine is bound to get hot, and even hotter for minutes

    after you shut it down, since coolant no longer flows through the block and the

    combustion chamber and exhaust manifolds are still radiating heat.

  5. I had a Rochester quadrajet carb (for my '71) rebuilt last year by recarbco.com ...I would have done the work myself, but the carb had stripped filter housing threads that were leaking and I had no way of repairing that.

    I believe they recut the threads and used an insert. Cost me about $150 as I recall, and it looked and worked great when I got it back.

  6. Does anyone know what was the original source of the outside rearview mirrors on the 1971 Avanti II's. The driver's side door mirror on my car is a cable operated remote control, and one of the cables has snapped.

    George

    I am pretty sure that mirror was used on series 1 Jaguar XJS, although I'm not sure why

    I think that except that I used to have an early XJS. I don't know if it has the same cable controls.

    Perhaps you can splice the cable somehow, or find a new length of cable that will work and graft it in.

    Here are a couple of photos of XJS mirrors (the first was my old XJS, the second one is on eBay right now http://tinyurl.com/395vnl ):

    79XJSmirror1.jpg

    XJSmirror2.jpg

  7. Turns out the link you were using doesnt allow direct post

    of the pictures! When I first tried I got the same as you.

    Tom

    OK, not sure I understand why the redirect is an issue, but apparently it is;

    I was coding it properly, but the url link wasn't working when used with that coding.

    Thanks!

    Here's the third photo with the tank installed:

    AvantiGasTank1.jpg

  8. Hey Tom:

    Pictures really are worth "a thousand words". You're gas tank set-up is pretty-much a 'clone' of my 1988 coupe - but what's with the Heavy-Duty wiring coming from the sender? My wiring is not much bigger than strong fish-line!! Is this why my gas gauge is a guessing game at best? Did you change anything (metal gas lines on top of tank for example). What are the 2 white wires from the sender on the right side?

    Bill D

    Frankly I'm not sure about the white wires, but I think they are most likely ground wires and they may have continued on to the electric antenna.

    I have not made any changes to the wiring, or to the tank; I bought the car used in the late 70's (it's a 71)

    and it seemed to be unmolested. The metal lines on top of the tank appeared to me to be stock, too... SFAIK they are anti-siphon vent lines, attached at both ends of the top of the tank and zig-zagged across the top of the tanks so they won't drain a full tank if the car sits on a side-slope or takes a hard turn; they culminate in the piece of 3/8" rubber tubing you can see running down the front of the tank near the passenger side end in one of the photos below.

    http://jagsnvettes.com/MiscPhotos/AvantiGasTank1.jpg

    http://jagsnvettes.com/MiscPhotos/P7030421.jpg

    http://jagsnvettes.com/MiscPhotos/P7030419.jpg

    Dang, I STILL cannot figure out how to post photos inline on this forum....

    Tom, your method of simply using bracketed "img" and '/img" around the url doesn't work for me,

    here's what I get, whether I use Internet Explorer or Firefox:

    AvantiGasTank1.jpg

    Even using the little picture icon supplied by this website (and plugging in the url) gives me the same result:

    AvantiGasTank1.jpg

  9. I would suggest putting some steel mesh into the holes where they are

    getting into the gas tank area. Just keep them from getting inside.

    Tom

    Great suggestion.

    I still don't understand what hole he's talking about, though, he didn't answer my question.

    I was thinking the tank sits flat on top of the gas line hole depression, but maybe my memory fails me,

    and it doesn't sit flat, or maybe he has the tank removed from the car.

  10. B) i found a hole in the bottom of the fiber glass below the tank. the week before i open the trunk and found 2 pounds of bird seed to which i couldnt figure out how the mouse or chimpmunk got it in their, i think the hole maybe where he or she is getting in and thier is holes in the fender top from the trunk to the gas tank area. is that hole in the bottom of the tank area needed ?

    Where is the hole? having recently R&R'd my tank, I know there is a slightly depressed circle in the center of the bottom, with about a 1-inch hole in it, but that's where the fuel line exits the tank. I think it's also a place for gas to drain out if the tank should leak, but it would only drain if the car was sitting level when it leaks (don't ask me how I know that). You could probably caulk around the hole (between the edge of the hole and the tank) from beneath the car if you want to discourage mice, or force a rubber hose donut in that space, but that would eliminate the "drain". Did you check the spare tire well in the trunk?

    As for the rusty springs, I guess you could use a rust converter or Rustoleum primer to try to retard the rust

    process and keep particles from falling on the rugs; or as Ernie says, just ignore it.

  11. Wayne...

    I've also read where the dual master cylinder on Avanti II's were either a Ford unit or a Mopar unit, depending on model year. I believe the change came about the '71 model year. My '70 is an August '70 unit, and it has the earlier 4-bolt master cylinder, so the change to the 2-bolt and different booster must have come after that. There were some changes to the rear brakes after that as well, so I'm assuming the master cylinder and booster were changed at the same time.

    Somewhere I may have the information on what the specific application was. It might take a day or so but I'll see what I can come up with for you. That way you can check price from a local supplier against what the Stude and Avanti suppliers might be asking.

    Yes, thanks, I'd appreciate that.

    I believe the change came in late '71.

    My other Avanti IS a '71, and takes the earlier 4-bolt M/C.

    For posterity, my old notes say the application for 65 to early 71 Avanti was 67-69 Chrysler with

    power disk brakes, EIS #64874 or Wagner #64874 or NAPA #36259; rebuild kit Wagner #59053

    And my old notes say 63/64 Avantis used Wagner #F27047; rebuild kit Wagner #F19372

    Front brake pads: NAPA #5702, Ferodo #DDB704, Mintex #GDB704

    I just found a note on a post I saw in 1998 from someone saying the AOAI Issue #80 pp32 says

    "Brake Booster Master Cylinder 76-82 is Bendix #2510302", but it's unclear as to

    whether it's referring to the master cylinder or the booster.......

    ....WHOA!!!!, I just tried typing that Bendix number into a Google search and came up with this

    page that I somehow missed in my earlier Google searches:

    http://studebaker-info.org/parts/NEW/mc.txt

    that caused me to do more searching which led me to this page of illustrations

    at Bob Johnstone's website:

    http://tinyurl.com/2g2f45

    The top one (67 Ford Fairlane 500), and the bottom one (68 Ford Galaxie) do look a lot like mine,

    I need to compare a little more closely, because those two have very different brake line

    fitting threads and I don't know what my car needs, but it appears like the issue may be close

    to being RESOLVED.

    Thanks, everyone, for your help.

  12. Bruce,

    If you do accidentally mix a small amount of DOT 3 with DOT 5 Silicone, what is the worst case scenario ? Can you look into the Master cylinder and see any difference in color if the two are mixed ? I may have done this last week after I noticed one of the chambers half filled and could not tell what type of fluid was there. When I poured in the DOT 3, I noticed its color was abit different. Will the brake pedal pressure indicate this bad mix in any way ? I only added a small amount. Should I have the fluid drained and lines bled with new DOT 5 added to play safe ?

    Also, My 78 II does not have disc brakes in the rear. Is it worthwhile to convert over ?I saw the ad from JIM TURNER Brake interchange kits. What's your opinion. B)

    Thx,

    Jerry

    It may be impossible to tell if the existing fluid is mixed... Dot 5 starts out with a light purplish hue, but over time in use it turns clear; Dot 3 and 4 start out slightly yellowish, but also turn nearly clear. Supposedly Dot 5 doesn't mix with Dot 3 or 4 but floats on top... but maybe the purplish dye from Dot 5 will mix with Dot 3/4, so there may be no way to easily tell if you have a mix. You could try pouring a fresh sample of each type in a glass container to see if they separate into layers (stratify) after a few hours (purplish color on top); if they do, then you could do the same with fluid from your M/C... pour a bit into a glass container and mark the level, then add some fresh Dot5, wait a few hours, then see if the purplish color stops at the line you marked. If you do the experiment, let us know how it turned out.

    I'd advise you to drain the lines and refill to be certain.

    A Google search turns up lots of opinions on Dot 5 versus Dot 3/4, like this: http://tinyurl.com/ysjl8v

    Other Google hits claim a mix of Dot 3/4 and Dot 5 will cause deterioration of seals; I doubt that, and in fact the opinion above says the seal issue probably occurs because some people flush their brake system with petroleum-based fluids like mineral spirits before refilling with Dot 5, and that it is likely the exposure to mineral spirits that causes the seal problems.

    My opinion on upgrading the brake system:

    The Avanti brakes were state of the art in the US in 1963, and are fine for normal driving as long as they are kept in good condition. If you can lock up the wheels in a panic stop, the brakes are doing all they can, and the rest is up to the tires and road surface; better disk brakes and/or better pad/shoe materials and rotor design reduce fade tendencies due to heat effects on pads under sustained braking conditions (like panic stops from very high speeds, or road racing, or carrying heavy loads down long steep hills), where the brakes lose their ability to grip as they heat up.

    Remove the two nuts that bolt the M/C to the booster and pull the M/C forward, usually you don't have to remove the brake lines. Look at the rear seal of the M/C, if you see any brake fluid the M/C is leaking into the booster. Replace the master cylinder.

    Jim Wood

    Already made that decision, Jim, it is leaking, the question is on the identity of the M/C. :)

    Wierd! I replied to two separate posts, but the software kept appending the second post to my first post, like an edit, despite my re-editing and re-posting several times, trying to separate the two replies, even leaving and re-entering the forum once... must be some sort of glitch in the website software. This post may get appended, too. (and it did)

  13. I don't know the part number for the master cylinder, but I believe you can obtain one from Studebaker International, Nostalgia Motors or Jon Myers.

    Well, I'd hoped to pick one up locally.

    To check the brake booster, pull the vacuum line while the engine is running. If the booster is good, the engine will suddenly start running badly from the massive vacuum leak. If the engine runs the same, the booster is bad as it must have been leaking internally. Plug the vacuum hose and the engine should start running normally again.

    Thanks, that may be a way to tell... actually the engine runs and idles very nicely, just as it always did, so perhaps my worries about the booster aren't warranted.

    You lack of pedal after adding fluid to the master cylinder could be due to massive amounts of air in the lines that need bled out. Another possible issue is the type of fluid...Avanti Motors back then put DOT 5 silicone fluid in the system...you may have added DOT 3 and the two are not compatible...in fact a very bad and potentially hazardous mixture. Poor brake pedal would be the least of your possible issues if they've been mixed.

    Sure... I didn't add the fluid to fix the brakes, but rather to see if I could cause more leakage to see where it was leaking fluid. Hadn't thought about Dot 5,

    usually the M/C has some sort of tag if it uses Dot 5, but I do intend to drain the old fluid before refilling and bleeding.

    If the car has been sitting as long as you say, the entire braking system should definitely be rebuilt...new master cylinder (booster if necessary), rebuild the calipers and wheel cylinders, new pads and brake shoes as at least some are likely to be fluid soaked and new rubber hoses. You may well need new metal tubing...this would be the time to do it. Safety first...if your car's brakes can't stop you, it doesn't matter how nice the rest of the car is when you hit something.

    Yes, I know... just hard to get psyched up to put money and effort into the car at this time;

    I'm getting too old to be crawling around under cars, but I can't get the car out of my steeply inclined driveway to tow it to a shop (not that they'd know anything about Avanti brakes, anyway); I have another Avanti I intend to keep, this one will probably go.

    Still would like to know the part number or application of the master cylinder.

  14. Seems like I once had that info, but I cannot find it now.

    I need a part number (EIS, NAPA, etc) for the dual brake master cylinder used on the '80 Avanti

    (2-bolt, with brake lines lines to bottom front and side left).

    My research on other forums indicates it MAY be a master cylinder used on Ford vehicles with front disk

    brakes in the mid to late 60's (66/67 T-bird, 67 Fairlane 500, 68/69 Torino).

    Anybody know for sure what was used?

    The car has been sitting for a considerable period, and the master cylinder chambers were dry

    when I checked it after finding the car had no brakes (the brake pedal goes to the floor, and there's

    evidence of fluid having leaked where the M/C meets the booster).

    Anybody know how to tell if a booster is bad, when you can't use the brakes because the car is

    laid up with a probable bad master cylinder? There's no obvious evidence of copious

    leakage around the vicinity of the six wheel cylinders, and it would be strange for both front and

    rear to leak dry at the same time (although I suppose that the rears could have leaked

    the fluid out some time previously without my knowing it since the front brakes kept working).

    The booster may have sucked the fluid past the M/C piston seals; but it may not have, since

    after I added fluid it seems to stay in the chambers with the engine running (pedal still goes to floor).

    If it IS a bad booster, I probably will need to get it rebuilt before I install a new M/C, but that's

    a large expense I'd rather not incur unless it's necessary, because this is not a car I intend to

    keep long term... I need to simplify my life in my old age.

    I can hear air exhausting (or being sucked in) from somewhere as I push the brake pedal to the floor,

    but that might be normal (possibly even a good sign, since the M/C offers no resistance to the

    pedal travel)... I'm not sure.

    Thanks,

    Wayne

  15. I feel certain someone out there has put headers on their Avanti II, and I would really appreciate some help to point me in the right direction, as there is only one speed shop around here, and they have not been very helpful.

    Would prefer something a little longer than 'block huggers'. I have a mechanic that has a mandrel tubing bender, but it would be easier if I could find something from another vehicle that would fit.

    Thanks in advance.

    Thomas

    I haven't done it, nor do I know of anyone that has, but here's some thoughts....

    I'm pretty certain the stock cast iron manifolds are from a Corvette, so "shorty" headers that

    would fit a 63-67 Corvette would likely fit the Avanti. I doubt they'd make a lot of improvement

    in the power department, though, and they'll transmit much more exhaust noise than cast iron.

    Probably the only thing they'd add is chrome bling, aside from a weight savings. If it's a weight

    savings you're after, check out later model Corvettes with lighter weight manifolds (but they'll

    have air injection fittings on them, too)... I'm not certain what year they started using tube manifolds,

    but I think perhaps with the C4 in 1984, and for sure by 1995.

    I doubt you can even find aftermarket "shorty" headers for a 63-67 Corvette, perhaps for the

    reason I stated... the stock exhaust manifolds work just fine.

    As for longer (full length) headers, they are available for Corvettes, but chances are slim to none

    they'd fit an Avanti because the routing and outlets won't be correct. And, be aware that

    the routing of the exhaust on the driver's side is especially tricky, in that the pipes have to avoid the

    steering box & column as well as allow access to the oil filter... if you've ever changed the filter you

    know what I mean (I may still have some wrist burn scars); long individual-port header pipes will only exacerbate the problem, it would be near impossible to fit 4 pipes through there, not to mention the

    difficulty of accessing the oil filter and #7 spark plug if you did shoehorn them in.

    You are also going to face some issues with the heat riser, and the alternator mount.

    Sorry to be negative, but not really worth doing, in my opinion... I'd spend that money on more

    fruitful engine mods.

    http://tinyurl.com/yvg8xk

    http://tinyurl.com/ytbsep

    http://tinyurl.com/yokgxf

  16. Anyone know exactly how the door panel goes back on? I have the door panels, a couple of round cardboard piece about 4 or 5 inches in diameter and a couple of round insulation pieces about the same diameter. Where do these little donuts go? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

    You mean upholstery panels? If you have a parts manual, look at plate 21-10 on page 187.

    The cardboard pieces are a mystery.... I would expect that a foam rubber donut goes over the door handle pivot post, between the upholstery panel and the door (or the mechanism from which the pivot post extends), likewise between the upholstery panel and the door lock pivot mechanism, and that there would be a nylon separator disc between the decorative door handle escutcheon and the handle itself.

    So, door>foam donut>door panel>chrome escutcheon>separator disk>handle

    A further check of the workshop manual: it mentions "hardboard discs" but doesn't say in which order it

    goes on... instead it tells you to "remove the rubber spacers and hard board discs from the regulator and remote control shafts and note their position for proper reassembly", which doesn't help much. I guess I'd put them between the foam donut and the pivot mechanism, eg, on the door side of the foam donuts rather than the panel side.

  17. THANKS GUYS. :D

    I'm not sure exactly what your switch looks like (black flat-rocker style?)... if you can't find the originals you may want to check out the switches used in Series 3 Jaguars (mid-80's XJ6 and XJS) to see if they are a suitable substitution, as they sound similar; they are a semi-shiny black plastic push & hold rocker switch, and seem to hold up well. If you found a jag in a junkyard, you could also get the harness connectors to match, as the switches have pins that slide into the connectors. Here's what the Jag switches look like...

    http://tinyurl.com/2whxst

    http://tinyurl.com/24hbnj

  18. <snip>

    See if you or a machine shop can fabricate a bracket similar in concept, but moves the front facing with the mounting holes forward four inches. If that can be done, you can either drill new mounting holes for the two rear hold down bolts or add extensions to the seat's rear brackets to continue to use the factory mounting bolt holes.

    This way the seats and seat tracks don't have to be modified and there are no permanent changes to the car. It may require you either get seat belt extensions or longer belts.

    <snip>

    I had some adapter brackets made for one of my (non-Avanti) cars a while ago, because I wanted to put some non-stock seats in the car. I measured mount positions carefully, removed the seat and sliders, and re-verified/measured the spacing of the mounting holes for the slider/floor and for the slider/seat, then designed an adapter to mate the new seat to the old sliders. So in my case, the adapters bolted to the bottom of the seat, then the sliders bolted to the adapters, then the sliders (with seat attached) were bolted to the floor.

    It will take a little engineering work on your part to design an adapter to raise the seat and position it further forward. In my case, I did not want any additional height or fore-aft adjustments, although I was forced to alter the fore-aft positioning a little because the bolts otherwise would have interfered with each other, and the thickness of the adapter raised the seat a bit. I cannot recall how the Avanti seat attaches to the slider and the floor. Whereas I designed an adapter bracket with as little height and fore-aft differences from stock as possible, you may need to use a piece of rectangular steel tubing to gain height, and you can offset the mounts on the adapter to place the seat closer to the firewall. You may find you need a smaller-diameter steering wheel if you move the seat 4" higher.

    I needed some fancy machining to fabricate my adapters, so I had them made from my design for about $60 per seat.

    Here's a photo of my adapter brackets (which were painted black before installing):

    seatbrackets.jpg

    The smaller holes are tapped to hold the slider-to-adapter bolts, while the "larger" holes are countersunk to recess the bolt heads of the adapter-to-seat bolts (which would otherwise interfere with the slider).

    Your design would probably go between the floor and the slider and be nothing more than a rectangular steel tube with 2 holes drilled in the same relative positions top and bottom (except the upper set of holes would be shifted forward the desired distance), with perhaps a couple of nuts pre-welded in place if needed.

  19. Just a bit more information...

    I was looking around my computer files and found a few previous posts I'd saved that

    led me to a vendor (TCI) with some pertinent information on transmission swap issues...

    1. They have a TV cable bracket for Edelbrock carburetors: #376710

    (they have brackets for other carbs as well)

    2. They have a tech writeup on adjusting the TV cable with that bracket: http://tinyurl.com/ywfev7

    3. Installation Do's and Don'ts: http://tinyurl.com/2cnm36

    4. Numerous parts to assist in electronic tranny swaps (4L60E, etc): http://tinyurl.com/272loc

    5. FAQ's on tranny swap issues: http://tinyurl.com/297ppx

  20. <snip>

    might I suggest a much easier swap? The

    TH700R4 is a 4 speed auto trans, will bolt directly to your GM engine, and its an

    all in one piece. Get one from 1987 to 1993 and you are good to go, make suret

    you add a cooler if you dont have one already. If you want more longevity, have

    a local shop add extra clutches to the 3/4 pack, and add a "Corvette" servo. Its

    probably the single best upgrade you can make. My dad just did his 1969 Avanti

    and loves it (thats your old baby Wayne! ;) )

    Tom

    I'd second that suggestion, why fool with an extra overdrive unit, put in a newly rebuilt

    TH700R4.... do it right and sell the overdrive.

    Tom, I'd be interested in knowing what needed to be done to make that swap, in detail,

    eg, driveshaft, mount, linkage, electrical issues... next time I need a tranny overhaul I'll

    be thinking about using the TH700R4 instead. Was it covered in the Avanti Magazine and

    I've forgotten? (it's tough getting old) If it hasn't been, it would make a nice article (hint).

    I do have a short writeup I saved, perhaps from this forum (but I forgot to note the

    name of the person that posted it); it mentions serious difficulty with adding a TV cable and

    adjusting the cable by using a pressure gauge, but not really enough details given for a novice

    to actually do the swap. It also mentions a kit from "Dave" (not sure who that is, Thibeault maybe?).

    Other issues it mentioned were:

    1. shifter rod pivot length may have to be changed, or a Chevy shifter used

    2. driveshaft needs to be shortened and fitted with the proper mount ears for a Chevy yoke

    (note: actually, I think you can buy special U-joints that allow a mismatch of yoke & driveshaft)

    3. elongate holes in the crossmember to accommodate the tranny support

    4. Modify the exhaust pipe on the left side to offset further left to avoid the TH700R4 pan,

    and enlarge the "X" crossmember opening to accommodate that offset.

    5. wire the torque converter lockup to function automatically (writer says this is a big deal

    and that he not only has a manual switch for lockup, but he also used a temperature

    switch to force lockup when tranny temp gets to 210!)

    6. use the TH700R4 only with a numerically low axle ratio, unless the engine has a HP cam

    and needs to run at high RPM

    Someone added the observation that the passenger footwell needs to be altered a bit

    to accomodate the 700R4 servo housing... that isn't an insignificant issue, since it may affect

    the rug as well! This poster said the 200R4 tranny avoids some of the clearance issues.

    (I'm vaguely remembering something about a replacement shifter dial available, maybe from

    an 80's Avanti, that has markings for this swap, but darned if I know where I saw it).

  21. OK, first off you should have a 3 speed trans, the Avanti auto was a 3

    spd until they used the 4 spd OD until in the early 80s. You should be

    seeing a "Powershift" automatic in there, which is a Borg Warner unit.

    <snip>

    Tom

    Was the chewed up gear you found a plastic gear??? Was the gear

    actually on the cable, or on a steel cylindrical fitting at the end

    of the cable?

    My '71 has a GM turbohydro 400, so it's possible you have a GM tranny.

    I don't know what was used in 1970, so I'm going to assume a GM tranny.

    I think all GM transmissions have the same setup for the speedo cable,

    and I've had some experience with GM manual transmissions.

    I cannot recall exactly, but if you look at where the speedo cable

    enters/attaches to the tranny, it should have a screw-on collar that

    allows you to remove the cable from a cylindrical fitting that is housed in

    the tranny. There is also a tab retained by a screw that presses/holds the

    cylindrical fitting in the hole. If you removed only the tab to pull the cable

    out of the tranny, the fitting would still be attached to the cable.

    When you've removed the cylindrical fitting from the transmission, there will be a

    plastic gear on a shaft, either left inside the tranny or more likely protruding from the

    end of the cylindrical fitting... the plastic shaft on the gear nestles inside the fitting,

    with the gear at the inside end of the fitting; the squared end of the cable slides

    into the outer end of the shaft of that plastic gear.

    The plastic gear mates to a steel drive gear inside the tranny,

    so that steel gear is likely undamaged (the plastic driven gear is purposely sacrificed).

    It is highly unlikely that something INSIDE the tranny caused the speedo failure.

    That gear you removed is chewed up, and something chewed it up, most likely binding inside

    the CABLE housing, so replace the cable. Check the speedometer, too, to make sure it's not

    causing the binding; connect the new cable to the speedometer and spin the cable

    from the tranny end, first by hand, and then with an electric drill, to run the speedometer

    to be sure everything is turning freely with near-zero resistance, no funny clicking noises.

    Clean out the fitting and the fitting cavity in the tranny to get rid of any plastic particles,

    and lubricate the cavity lightly with white lithium grease.

    On the GM trannies, the plastic gear comes in colors according to how many teeth

    are on the gear (to conform to different rear end ratios). I think you can simply go to

    a GM dealer and get a new gear in that color, and they are not very expensive,

    probably around $10 - $15.

  22. Does anyone know if new keys can be made from the key codes?

    Thanks again

    I don't, but...

    Have you asked the seller if he might have an extra set he didn't send with the car?

    New door and ignition locks are $65 EACH from Nostalgic Motor Cars: avantiparts.net

    They may also know whether new keys can be made from the key code, or check with

    a good long-established locksmith (with old books!). I don't know a thing about locksmithing,

    but it may be possible for a locksmith to make a key for the ignition switch from a blank, if he

    has the (removed) ignition switch to play with.... if I recall correctly, the ignition switch can be

    removed without the key inserted. I haven't owned a Stude Avanti in many years, so I've forgotten,

    does the same key fit ignition and doors? If so, then a key made by a locksmith specifically for

    your ignition switch might fit the doors, avoiding the hassle of R&R'ing the door handles.

  23. Hi this is my first post here. My mom has a 1963 Avanti. I am currently bulding a model of it as a birthday present for her. I want to make it pretty detailed, but I can't go over there and start looking under the hood, or she might get suspicious (it is a surprise after all). Does anyone have some good pics of the Avanti engine? Mainly I want to see how the overflow tank is plumbed. I know that a hose comes from the radiator to the front of the tank, but does the overflow tank have a hose that runs to the engine, and if so where? Also how/where are the heater core hoses routed.

    Any help is greatly appeciated!

    Unfortunately I can't locate many photos of R1 engines on the net, and I don't currently own a Stude Avanti nor did mine have the stock engine.

    On the 63 Avanti there is a short vertical pipe coming down from under the right rear corner of the tank that bolts to the thermostat flange on the intake manifold of the engine (eg, there is no thermostat housing, the tank pipe takes it's place); the pipe is only a couple of inches long and is an integral part of the tank. The tank goes cross-wise atop the front of the engine, with it's right end about lining up with the center of the engine, I believe.

    The hose from the left corner of the radiator is an "S" shaped hose to offset toward the center of the engine.

    You didn't say which engine your Mom's car has; if the car has air conditioning, or if you know the car does not have a supercharger, it undoubtedly has an R1 engine, which has a 4-barrel with a large round chrome air cleaner.

    Try these Pics

    http://tinyurl.com/2u7bfn ('64 R1 engine, which is pretty much identical)

    http://tinyurl.com/39okp7 (R1 air cleaner in need of chroming)

    http://tinyurl.com/2ocnvs (R2 engine: supercharger with small chrome cap air inlet over the carb, air cleaner is a large chrome cylinder behind the supercharger on the passenger side)

    http://tinyurl.com/2q4d56 (R3 engine: supercharger with aluminum blower box enclosing the carb)

    http://tinyurl.com/2pfgwu (R3 engine... this shows the overflow tank pretty well, same position as an R1)

    http://tinyurl.com/2ny92j (R3 engine again)

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