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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. I have a '78 Avanti II and am considering some projects over the next few months.

    1. to restore rake to similar to original, has anyone heard of "drop spindles"? A buddy who talked to someone at a show heard about it.

    2. I'd like to add an original style hood ornament and see them in Avanti Int'l -- anyone done that and how do they attach?

    3. Any advice on the Turner brake conversion? My car can use some extra stopping power.

    4. Are there modifications or kits available to reduce steering turns, lock to lock?



    1. Yes, I've heard of drop spindles, usually in reference to Ford model A hot rods; but no, I haven't heard of

    dropped spindles being available for Stude Avanti suspensions, but it's possible I suppose. Or, you could install an LT1 fuel setup to provide more hood-to-engine clearance, and remove (progressively more toward the front end) some of the body spacers; that would be very expensive, but coupled with an overdrive tranny the fuel economy should improve greatly. Either way, the fender openings would overlap the tire tops a bit, which might be problematic if you hit a bump while turning into the driveway! You could also consider a lower profile tire on the front only, if you can find any to fit without rubbing... but I wouldn't recommend mixing tire profiles/tread pattern on the same vehicle.

    Dropped spindles are probably available for later Avanti's built on GM chassis (87-up).

    Check this link (IndyJimW's post in the middle of the page) http://tinyurl.com/2azfa2

    If you know a talented machinist, it might be possible to machine a Stude drop spindle from billet steel if

    you provide him with pristine original spindles to use to take measurements (high $$$$, though). But if

    I'm not mistaken (I might be), spindles are machined from drop-forged castings to add strength.

    2. The hood ornament has six posts that extend through the hood, with stamped nuts on the underside; it

    should just be a matter of finding an Avanti owner with the ornament who'll let you remove his ornament and make a paper pattern from his hood of the hole positions.

    3. Stock brakes are fine if kept in good maintenance and you use decent pads. I haven't done the Turner conversion, but many have and like it. One Avanti enthusiast decided he wanted newer technology than the Turner kit and designed his own conversion; you might try contacting him to see if you like his approach better and whether he sells the adapters (last I recall, he was trying to determine if it was a viable side business). Try this link to the Stude Avanti board for more info: http://tinyurl.com/2h8qlf

    4. Yes, $100 here: http://tinyurl.com/2e3scu (bottom of that page; stock steering knuckle with spindle is in the center of that page)

  2. Before you spend a whole lot of time on that Lincoln wheel, be sure you try it on the car, because

    most makers switched to metric bolt patterns in the past 10 years or so.

    Not all Lincolns have a pattern that will fit your car: 4.5 inches (or 114.3 mm).

    Selected models of 70-72 and 80-89 Lincoln wheels should have the same bolt pattern as your Avanti,

    among others... here's a chart for Lincolns:


    Backspacing and the diameter of the center hub hole are also potential issues, possibly even on the wheels I mentioned. Steel wheels use tapered nuts to locate and center the wheel, but alloy wheels use different style nuts and some use the hub hole as the sole method of centering... it mates with a machined spindle hub... and the nuts simply keep the wheel from sliding off the hub.

  3. What I was really surprised to see in that section, was the number of cars that seem to be running the Trans Am GTA rims [the ones with the black 'basket weave center]. I was under the impression that the Avanti bolt pattern was Ford/Mopar, and not GM. Or did they change in later years?

    Yes, they changed to a Monte Carlo chassis in 1987, so those later cars have a GM bolt pattern.

    I'm not so sure about the Dayton wires, though, because I have an 80 with the factory Dayton rims and

    I don't think they are the same as the ones in the photos you referenced, although I suppose there

    may well be different Dayton designs which could have been used.

    Your car has a 5-bolt on 4.5 inch center (Ford/Chrysler/Studebaker) pattern

  4. At AVANTISOURCE.COM/GALLERY_STUDEBAKER.HTM there are a set of rims I wonder if anybody has any idea of what they are?


    Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

    I tried enlarging the photo to see if I could get any clues, but the resolution is just too poor to get any detail at all; it's even impossible to tell if it's an alloy (mesh or lace) wheel or a wire wheel!

    I'd suggest you email the website owner to see if possibly he can get you in touch with the owner of that car,

    or even get you a higher resolution photo (maybe he had hi-res versions and resized them).

    Here are some similar alloy possibilities:








  5. Believe the bulbs may be wrong size - what is correct size? Same for all gauges?

    Shop manual says type 57R (R=red, plain 57 would have clear glass); there are 7 instrument bulbs.

    As for fogging, I would be concerned that there may be a water leak somewhere

    under the dash that is causing excess condensation.

  6. The car studders when I get on the gas. Nothing major, just a little hesitation before it start to accelerate.

    Usually due to a bad accelerator pump diaphragm in the carburetor... the purpose of the

    accelerator pump is to give an immediate shot of gas down the carb throat when you first

    push the gas pedal; if the diaphragm is bad, or if the actuating lever is misadjusted, then

    the car hesitates.

    Considering your other carb issue, perhaps it's time to rebuild the carburetor.

  7. Any help will be truly appreciated.

    lorinwarner@yahoo.com in Lowell, Vermont

    Can't really help much, as I don't currently own a late model Avanti to look at, but

    I might suggest possibly you can remove the glovebox door & lining to get some access.

    I'm not certain about the dashboard on a late model, but I vaguely remember

    years ago that I worked on the wiper mechanism (on an older '66 Avanti) by removing

    the dashtop speaker grill and speaker, then shaving the dashtop speaker opening lip slightly,

    enough to wriggle the radio out through that opening, then reaching through the hole to get to

    the mechanism on the back of the wiper motor. I think the driver-side pivot was accessible

    from under the dash. Not fun, I wouldn't want to do it again, but it worked, and I don't believe

    I had to remove the dash & A/C.

    Again, I may be totally off-base and perhaps this approach won't work at all on a late model.

    PS: one issue I had was that the passenger-side pivot had failed and the fiberglass holding that

    pivot had crumbled, so I had to re-glass that area; look for signs of damage at the base of

    the pivots, and try wiggling them to make sure they are solidly fastened.

  8. >snip<

    What make and model vehicle do I specify when searching for the wheels?


    Ray K.

    I don't have a definitive answer, but I suspect you are looking for wheels from a

    full-size Chrysler sedan from the mid to late 70's... like a New Yorker.

    Hopefully someone has a more exact application they can offer.

  9. I am restoring my 1969 Avanti II (rqa0304) back to original for next years meet. It has a delco air conditioner which I want to change back to a york unit but I need to see what the mounting and brackets look like. Can anyone help me.

    I used to own a 69, which, if I recall correctly, had a Delco A/C compressor from new... are you certain

    yours didn't begin it's life with a Delco? I sold that car to SBCA96's dad (SBCA96 posts frequently

    on this forum), so he could verify my memory.

    I also owned a 66 which did have the York, but I doubt that I have any old photos showing it (I'm away

    from home this week, so I can't dig up old photos).

    Have you checked with Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors? He may have the brackets, or at least

    know whether your car should have a Delco or York...

    call him at 248-349-4884 monday to thursday 10-4:30 eastern time.

  10. OK, I jumped in and purchased a '81 Avanti. Just had 4 new tires installed, 215/70's and a front end alignment done. I know the early 80's power steering wasn't the best and I don't care for the feel of it. The car has a nasty wander to it at low speeds, almost feels like a pin-ball machine. At speeds above 50, the steering is fine. What could I do to hopefully eliminate the wandering? Can the alignment be changed to stop the wander?

    I'm no expert, but here's a couple of my thoughts...

    Avanti steering doesn't have as positive a feel as a rack & pinion setup, but it shouldn't be annoying.

    All the adjustments in the world won't overcome worn parts, so have the front suspension closely checked before spending any more money on another alignment.

    Hard to know from the description... I would hope the alignment guy would have checked for

    worn/loose tie rod ends or bellcrank bushing or wheel bearings. Have them checked again, because they

    are the likely causes. Kingpin bushings, control arm inner bushings, and control arm outer pin bushings are also wear points that should be checked... how much mileage is on the chassis? How well does the car handle rough road conditions like pot holes? If the front end feels like a hammer hitting an anvil, the suspension is in very serious need of refurbishing due to badly-worn parts. The Avanti has a LOT of lubrication zerks, and today's fast-lube shops are used to modern cars that have NO lube fittings, so it may not have gotten proper care. The rubber in the inner control arm bushings and in the steering column rag joint doesn't last forever, either. Have a competent mechanic make a thorough check of all those items.

    Beyond that, wandering is pretty much a function of the caster setting. Positive setting = less wander, "goes where you point it", but feels a bit sluggish getting there; negative caster results in "wander" or "darting", and you have to ride herd on it. It's possible the alignment shop used Studebaker Avanti settings, which are meant for the original-equipment bias-belted tires. The toe-in setting must be modified a bit (for radial tires) to get closer to a zero setting than the stock Stude setting.

    What was the wear pattern on the old tires? Was the wander present BEFORE the tires were replaced?

    Did you have the impression the alignment shop knew how to adjust the old kingpin suspension system?

    In many shops they never see kingpins, only ball joint suspensions. Modern shops can give you a computer readout (from the alignment machine) of the settings before and after the alignment. Ask your regular mechanic where he'd go for an alignment... the local tire store is generally NOT the most competent at doing alignments, although some ARE.

    I don't have my shop manual or other references available to me today, but here's a link to some

    alignment specs:


    It says the caster setting is -3/4 to +3/4 degree, with zero degrees preferred... I would make sure

    it's set to zero or slightly positive... and the toe-in should be 1/16 to 1/8 inch rather than the Stude spec of 3/16 to 1/4.

    I think there are also adjustments that can be made to the power steering but usually that simply centers the valve so that the car doesn't have a tendency to pull to one (the same) side when the steering wheel is centered. The steering gearbox also has a centering and snugness adjustment, but I'd only ask a professional to play with that, and then only if he has the Avanti shop manual in front of him; the Avanti shop manual should cover those adjustments.

  11. The bad news is that I now have a depths-of-hell-banshee squeal from the new pads. I have bedded them in using the method of several low speed stops consecutively, and then some moderately high speed stops. They don't squeal at all in very light or very heavy applications, only in that middle area where you do 90% of your braking! Is there any value in anti-squeal stuff on the pads? Can I expect this to improve with use or do I need to think of turning the rotors now? They are original, 58K miles, and did not exhibit undue runout.

    I've had lousy luck buying pads at the local parts stores over the years, sounds like you did, too.

    As I found out, saving a few bucks on pads is false economy.

    Order a set of pads from Nostalgic Motors: 1-800-avanti1 ($40 + shipping)

    If the rotors are excessively shiny or have a lot of grooves or pits, then take the time to remove them

    and have them turned (I always implore the shop to take only a minimal cut to smooth the rotor face, to

    prolong the life of the rotors, which cost about $250 each).

  12. Take a look at this webpage: http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/avantiWAS.txt

    I believe stock tires were 205/75-15

    A common size used as a replacement is 215/70-15; I recently bought Yokohama Avid

    Touring whitewalls in the 215 size ("S"-rated). In a blackwall I'd recommend Goodyear

    tires in either the ComforTred or TripleTred, or Yokohama AVID TRZ (all are "T"-rated);

    if comfort isn't a priority and you want a more aggressive tire, then Pirelli P4000.

  13. Could be just dirt around the pads, keeping one against the rotor after the pedal is released,

    ...or one pad so worn that the piston is sticking in the out position.

    1. Check the rotor faces for radial rust streaks from rainwater if the car hasn't been driven a lot recently;

    since you aren't experiencing a pull to one side, this may be the most likely cause.

    If not, and changing the pads doesn't cure it...

    2. With car jacked up and wheel removed, grip opposite sides of the rotor and wiggle it to

    check for looseness (bad/loose wheel bearings); do that again at other clock positions;

    also make sure the rotor spins freely without binding.

    3. Check to see that the rotor is centered in the caliper (use feeler gauges between the

    caliper and the rotor front & rear, on both sides)... if the measurements are not all really close,

    there are shims available for the caliper mounting bolts to correct the positioning.

    4. When a brake booster goes bad, it can cause the brake pads to stay snugged against the rotor

    (generally you'll also notice there's less than the normal brake pedal movement before the brakes firm)

    5. Measure the thickness of the rotors where the pads contact it; I believe the minimum thickness

    is 0.3 inches (don't have my shop manual handy, you'll find the minimum dimension there)

    6. Check for a warped rotor by attaching a dial indicator to the caliper and measuring runout as

    the rotor is rotated; again, the minimum allowed run-out is in the shop manual.

    7. A very slight brake fluid leak conceivably could cause pad "skipping" on the rotor surface (not likely).

    Good luck.

  14. Would like vacuum reading - can't keep car running long enough to check. Same with timing check - car won't idle on its own. Yes, car has anti-diesel/run-on solenoid mounted on carb. It's electrically operated and is functional ('bench test').

    Vacuum hose re-do and reman carb installation were done to resolve poor idle when cold and occasional bog/flat-spot when pressing accelerator. I do (just about) anything to have those 'problems' back!

    Seems to me you've eliminated the carburetor as the problem. Still sounds like a vacuum issue.

    If you haven't monkeyed with the distributor internally, or the intake manifold, or played with timing or spark plug wires (eg, you haven't done ANYTHING with the ignition since before you changed the carb), and it's secured tightly and the vacuum can on the distributor holds a vacuum applied by mouth, I would not consider it suspect (although it can't hurt to make sure it's aligned with #1 cylinder wire at TDC on the compression stroke). I would consider those new vacuum valves as suspect, though. Assuming you've convinced yourself that the vacuum hoses are connected as the diagrams show as proper, and there are not any "extra" nipples on the new valves, and since re-installing the old carb didn't fix/change the problem, it would seem prudent to backtrack on the other changes you made (like the vacuum valves). I might even be tempted to block off the holes the vacuum valves are in and simply run a ported-vacuum hose to the distributor for a test run. Also, you did not make any other alterations elsewhere, like a new heat riser valve, or other exhaust changes, etc, did you?

  15. Ideas on where to start?

    Is there a vacuum hose diagram?

    ...any and all suggestions and help is appreciated!

    It does sound like a vacuum issue, or that the choke valve is flapping loose or a butterfly valve is

    sticking or rubbing on the carb base gasket.

    I'd suggest you start by re-installing the old carburetor (if you have it) to see if it acts the same

    as the reman'd one.

    IIRC, there is a temp-operated vacuum "tree" valve sticking out of the

    thermostat housing that has 2 or 3 emissions hoses on it, and the correct match of hoses to

    ports is undoubtedly critical.

    Your best bet on a vacuum diagram would probably be to get hold of a shop

    manual for a Corvette or Chevy of that vintage.

    Or try this webpage: http://tinyurl.com/2bps5j

    Or find a stock Chevy of that vintage to look at.

    Or maybe one of these books:





  16. I don't know the definitive answer, but when I confront situations like yours,

    I usually reason "why not?, can't hurt, ...might help", and it's inexpensive.

    Anything sitting atop a hot engine is bound to get hot, and even hotter for minutes

    after you shut it down, since coolant no longer flows through the block and the

    combustion chamber and exhaust manifolds are still radiating heat.

  17. I had a Rochester quadrajet carb (for my '71) rebuilt last year by recarbco.com ...I would have done the work myself, but the carb had stripped filter housing threads that were leaking and I had no way of repairing that.

    I believe they recut the threads and used an insert. Cost me about $150 as I recall, and it looked and worked great when I got it back.

  18. Does anyone know what was the original source of the outside rearview mirrors on the 1971 Avanti II's. The driver's side door mirror on my car is a cable operated remote control, and one of the cables has snapped.


    I am pretty sure that mirror was used on series 1 Jaguar XJS, although I'm not sure why

    I think that except that I used to have an early XJS. I don't know if it has the same cable controls.

    Perhaps you can splice the cable somehow, or find a new length of cable that will work and graft it in.

    Here are a couple of photos of XJS mirrors (the first was my old XJS, the second one is on eBay right now http://tinyurl.com/395vnl ):



  19. Turns out the link you were using doesnt allow direct post

    of the pictures! When I first tried I got the same as you.


    OK, not sure I understand why the redirect is an issue, but apparently it is;

    I was coding it properly, but the url link wasn't working when used with that coding.


    Here's the third photo with the tank installed:


  20. Hey Tom:

    Pictures really are worth "a thousand words". You're gas tank set-up is pretty-much a 'clone' of my 1988 coupe - but what's with the Heavy-Duty wiring coming from the sender? My wiring is not much bigger than strong fish-line!! Is this why my gas gauge is a guessing game at best? Did you change anything (metal gas lines on top of tank for example). What are the 2 white wires from the sender on the right side?

    Bill D

    Frankly I'm not sure about the white wires, but I think they are most likely ground wires and they may have continued on to the electric antenna.

    I have not made any changes to the wiring, or to the tank; I bought the car used in the late 70's (it's a 71)

    and it seemed to be unmolested. The metal lines on top of the tank appeared to me to be stock, too... SFAIK they are anti-siphon vent lines, attached at both ends of the top of the tank and zig-zagged across the top of the tanks so they won't drain a full tank if the car sits on a side-slope or takes a hard turn; they culminate in the piece of 3/8" rubber tubing you can see running down the front of the tank near the passenger side end in one of the photos below.




    Dang, I STILL cannot figure out how to post photos inline on this forum....

    Tom, your method of simply using bracketed "img" and '/img" around the url doesn't work for me,

    here's what I get, whether I use Internet Explorer or Firefox:


    Even using the little picture icon supplied by this website (and plugging in the url) gives me the same result:


  21. I would suggest putting some steel mesh into the holes where they are

    getting into the gas tank area. Just keep them from getting inside.


    Great suggestion.

    I still don't understand what hole he's talking about, though, he didn't answer my question.

    I was thinking the tank sits flat on top of the gas line hole depression, but maybe my memory fails me,

    and it doesn't sit flat, or maybe he has the tank removed from the car.

  22. B) i found a hole in the bottom of the fiber glass below the tank. the week before i open the trunk and found 2 pounds of bird seed to which i couldnt figure out how the mouse or chimpmunk got it in their, i think the hole maybe where he or she is getting in and thier is holes in the fender top from the trunk to the gas tank area. is that hole in the bottom of the tank area needed ?

    Where is the hole? having recently R&R'd my tank, I know there is a slightly depressed circle in the center of the bottom, with about a 1-inch hole in it, but that's where the fuel line exits the tank. I think it's also a place for gas to drain out if the tank should leak, but it would only drain if the car was sitting level when it leaks (don't ask me how I know that). You could probably caulk around the hole (between the edge of the hole and the tank) from beneath the car if you want to discourage mice, or force a rubber hose donut in that space, but that would eliminate the "drain". Did you check the spare tire well in the trunk?

    As for the rusty springs, I guess you could use a rust converter or Rustoleum primer to try to retard the rust

    process and keep particles from falling on the rugs; or as Ernie says, just ignore it.

  23. Wayne...

    I've also read where the dual master cylinder on Avanti II's were either a Ford unit or a Mopar unit, depending on model year. I believe the change came about the '71 model year. My '70 is an August '70 unit, and it has the earlier 4-bolt master cylinder, so the change to the 2-bolt and different booster must have come after that. There were some changes to the rear brakes after that as well, so I'm assuming the master cylinder and booster were changed at the same time.

    Somewhere I may have the information on what the specific application was. It might take a day or so but I'll see what I can come up with for you. That way you can check price from a local supplier against what the Stude and Avanti suppliers might be asking.

    Yes, thanks, I'd appreciate that.

    I believe the change came in late '71.

    My other Avanti IS a '71, and takes the earlier 4-bolt M/C.

    For posterity, my old notes say the application for 65 to early 71 Avanti was 67-69 Chrysler with

    power disk brakes, EIS #64874 or Wagner #64874 or NAPA #36259; rebuild kit Wagner #59053

    And my old notes say 63/64 Avantis used Wagner #F27047; rebuild kit Wagner #F19372

    Front brake pads: NAPA #5702, Ferodo #DDB704, Mintex #GDB704

    I just found a note on a post I saw in 1998 from someone saying the AOAI Issue #80 pp32 says

    "Brake Booster Master Cylinder 76-82 is Bendix #2510302", but it's unclear as to

    whether it's referring to the master cylinder or the booster.......

    ....WHOA!!!!, I just tried typing that Bendix number into a Google search and came up with this

    page that I somehow missed in my earlier Google searches:


    that caused me to do more searching which led me to this page of illustrations

    at Bob Johnstone's website:


    The top one (67 Ford Fairlane 500), and the bottom one (68 Ford Galaxie) do look a lot like mine,

    I need to compare a little more closely, because those two have very different brake line

    fitting threads and I don't know what my car needs, but it appears like the issue may be close

    to being RESOLVED.

    Thanks, everyone, for your help.

  24. Bruce,

    If you do accidentally mix a small amount of DOT 3 with DOT 5 Silicone, what is the worst case scenario ? Can you look into the Master cylinder and see any difference in color if the two are mixed ? I may have done this last week after I noticed one of the chambers half filled and could not tell what type of fluid was there. When I poured in the DOT 3, I noticed its color was abit different. Will the brake pedal pressure indicate this bad mix in any way ? I only added a small amount. Should I have the fluid drained and lines bled with new DOT 5 added to play safe ?

    Also, My 78 II does not have disc brakes in the rear. Is it worthwhile to convert over ?I saw the ad from JIM TURNER Brake interchange kits. What's your opinion. B)



    It may be impossible to tell if the existing fluid is mixed... Dot 5 starts out with a light purplish hue, but over time in use it turns clear; Dot 3 and 4 start out slightly yellowish, but also turn nearly clear. Supposedly Dot 5 doesn't mix with Dot 3 or 4 but floats on top... but maybe the purplish dye from Dot 5 will mix with Dot 3/4, so there may be no way to easily tell if you have a mix. You could try pouring a fresh sample of each type in a glass container to see if they separate into layers (stratify) after a few hours (purplish color on top); if they do, then you could do the same with fluid from your M/C... pour a bit into a glass container and mark the level, then add some fresh Dot5, wait a few hours, then see if the purplish color stops at the line you marked. If you do the experiment, let us know how it turned out.

    I'd advise you to drain the lines and refill to be certain.

    A Google search turns up lots of opinions on Dot 5 versus Dot 3/4, like this: http://tinyurl.com/ysjl8v

    Other Google hits claim a mix of Dot 3/4 and Dot 5 will cause deterioration of seals; I doubt that, and in fact the opinion above says the seal issue probably occurs because some people flush their brake system with petroleum-based fluids like mineral spirits before refilling with Dot 5, and that it is likely the exposure to mineral spirits that causes the seal problems.

    My opinion on upgrading the brake system:

    The Avanti brakes were state of the art in the US in 1963, and are fine for normal driving as long as they are kept in good condition. If you can lock up the wheels in a panic stop, the brakes are doing all they can, and the rest is up to the tires and road surface; better disk brakes and/or better pad/shoe materials and rotor design reduce fade tendencies due to heat effects on pads under sustained braking conditions (like panic stops from very high speeds, or road racing, or carrying heavy loads down long steep hills), where the brakes lose their ability to grip as they heat up.

    Remove the two nuts that bolt the M/C to the booster and pull the M/C forward, usually you don't have to remove the brake lines. Look at the rear seal of the M/C, if you see any brake fluid the M/C is leaking into the booster. Replace the master cylinder.

    Jim Wood

    Already made that decision, Jim, it is leaking, the question is on the identity of the M/C. :)

    Wierd! I replied to two separate posts, but the software kept appending the second post to my first post, like an edit, despite my re-editing and re-posting several times, trying to separate the two replies, even leaving and re-entering the forum once... must be some sort of glitch in the website software. This post may get appended, too. (and it did)

  25. I don't know the part number for the master cylinder, but I believe you can obtain one from Studebaker International, Nostalgia Motors or Jon Myers.

    Well, I'd hoped to pick one up locally.

    To check the brake booster, pull the vacuum line while the engine is running. If the booster is good, the engine will suddenly start running badly from the massive vacuum leak. If the engine runs the same, the booster is bad as it must have been leaking internally. Plug the vacuum hose and the engine should start running normally again.

    Thanks, that may be a way to tell... actually the engine runs and idles very nicely, just as it always did, so perhaps my worries about the booster aren't warranted.

    You lack of pedal after adding fluid to the master cylinder could be due to massive amounts of air in the lines that need bled out. Another possible issue is the type of fluid...Avanti Motors back then put DOT 5 silicone fluid in the system...you may have added DOT 3 and the two are not compatible...in fact a very bad and potentially hazardous mixture. Poor brake pedal would be the least of your possible issues if they've been mixed.

    Sure... I didn't add the fluid to fix the brakes, but rather to see if I could cause more leakage to see where it was leaking fluid. Hadn't thought about Dot 5,

    usually the M/C has some sort of tag if it uses Dot 5, but I do intend to drain the old fluid before refilling and bleeding.

    If the car has been sitting as long as you say, the entire braking system should definitely be rebuilt...new master cylinder (booster if necessary), rebuild the calipers and wheel cylinders, new pads and brake shoes as at least some are likely to be fluid soaked and new rubber hoses. You may well need new metal tubing...this would be the time to do it. Safety first...if your car's brakes can't stop you, it doesn't matter how nice the rest of the car is when you hit something.

    Yes, I know... just hard to get psyched up to put money and effort into the car at this time;

    I'm getting too old to be crawling around under cars, but I can't get the car out of my steeply inclined driveway to tow it to a shop (not that they'd know anything about Avanti brakes, anyway); I have another Avanti I intend to keep, this one will probably go.

    Still would like to know the part number or application of the master cylinder.

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