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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. I can only give you a partial answer, I don't know enough to fully answer...

    The expert on Avanti II through 1984 is Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motorcars in Wixom MI, 248-349-4884 mon-thurs 10am to 4:30pm eastern

    The original Stude differentials, came only in these ratios, according to the parts manual:







    Stude didn't make their own differentials, they used "Dana 44's" in Avanti

    (Dana Corp, or Dana Spicer, is/was a parts supplier to the automobile makers and aftermarket).

    I believe that all early Avanti II cars (at least up through '71) came with "Twin Traction" (also called posi, or

    "Power Lok"), in either 3.31 or 3.54 ratios, but I don't know for certain whether that continued up through

    your '83 model. I have an '80 that seems to have a high rear end ratio, but I never tried to find out the ratio,

    and the spec/order sheet that came with the car does not mention it.

    I'm surprised you weren't able to rotate the driveshaft with the wheels off the ground, but it's possible

    the wheels need a strong resistance force to "unlock" (free) the axle shafts.

    It's also possible that you need to rotate both rear wheels simultaneously; if that doesn't work, I'd suggest

    marking the driveshaft and a tire and either:

    1) have someone in the drivers seat put the tranny in low gear and apply the brakes lightly (to keep revs

    down) and count driveshaft revs for one or more tire revolutions with the wheels off the ground, or

    2) have someone move the car forward very slowly (brakes applied) while you watch from down at street

    level to count how many times the driveshaft turns when the tire turns one or more full turns... get

    creative and tie a weighted piece of brightly colored yarn to the driveshaft so you can see it flop down

    each rev, or attach something that makes a noise each rev (as kids we used a playing card to make

    a motor sound against the bicycle spokes)

    You might also be able to estimate the ratio mathmatically if you have cruise control or a steady foot...

    you could use freeway markers to determine what rpm is required to achieve exactly a timed one-minute mile.... an actual 60 miles/hr... on a level stretch and use the approx rolling diameter of your rear tire size to estimate how many turns the tires make in one mile, then divide that into the rpm to get a ratio (I'm assuming your tranny has a 1:1 ratio in drive... no overdrive... so engine rpm equals driveshaft rpm). For example, a 205/75-15 tire turns about 770 revs per mile, so if you needed to run at 3150 rpm to cover a mile in exactly one minute, then 3150/770 = 4.09 ratio; 2872 rpm is a 3.73 ratio, 2725 rpm is a 3:54 ratio, etc... not exact, but probably close enough to determine which stock ratio you most likely have. If you run 215/70-15 tires, the magic number to use in the calculations is 775 revs/mile, 225/60-15 is 812 revs/mile, etc. Caveat: I haven't tried it, this is purely theoretical.

  2. <snip>

    Here's the deal. These lights are hard to come by anymore because all cars for the past 20+ years have had them installed - so who needs replacements? When I say hard to come by I really mean your choices are quite limited. Checker, Advance auto, Whitney et. all do have selections (do it by internet). Trouble is they don't always distinguish between inside/outside capabilities.

    Make sure the light aims "straight-out" not down or up / this can be difficult if trying to mount inside the Avanti extreme-swept-angle rear window. If you do mount inside the light should pretty much 'enclose the window area so as not to waste any light or get any glaring reflections inside and out. There are some 3rd brake lights available that go for $100+ for outside mount (mine was $16 JCW). You could, if you dare, develope your own 3rd brake light - say an LED trailer-type set-up (oval).

    Now for the most important part. You will need a LOGIC CIRCUIT. Either get it with the light or order it separately if the light doesn't come with it (not expensive).. The logic circuit tells the 3rd brake light that it is only a brake light and not a turn signal (2 wire vs 3 wire 'amber' set-up). You will hook the logic circuit and 3rd brake light to either the left or right brake lights which also happen to be TURN signal lights.

    Bill D

    I haven't done this, but 2 comments...

    1) the fact that so many cars in the past 20 years have a third brake light may actually make it easier;

    simply visit a junkyard where they let you wander around and you may find one you like that looks as if it will fit your Avanti ... in fact, you could make a cardboard template of the rear window slant from your car, bring it along and trial-fit it in a junk car that has a third brake light that looks as though it would work.

    2) although a logic unit might be nice (it could allow you to do all your wiring in the trunk), I don't think you'd need one if you can isolate the stoplight switch output wire (designated #15 on the wiring diagram, a red wire with a white trailer) in front of the directional signal control (goes to a 6-wire body harness connector specifically for the turn signal control, under the dash at the steering column, so you could intercept it there)... splice into that wire and test your light, then run your new wire back under the carpeting alongside the main body harness (next to the driveshaft hump) and up behind the rear seat & under the rear shelf to where your new rear deck brake light will be mounted; then run a separate ground wire from there to the nearest frame ground, and install your new brake light.

  3. According to the website :


    a spacer ring should be placed between the hub and wheel. I have been unsuccessful in locating spacer rings for this purpose. Does anyone know where such rings are available?

    I haven't used them, but Google is your friend; try searching on "hubcentric rings"

    ... here are a couple of hits, but you need to take your measurements in millimeters:




    Here's a table for converting inches to mm: http://tinyurl.com/37bw79

    My guess is that if the wheels do not use a centering-type lugnut, eg, if the lugnuts

    for alloy wheels are not the tapered type that center the wheel holes on the studs

    (the old steel wheels used an "acorn" style nut in a wheel hole designed for them),

    but rather just clamp down on the outer face of the wheel, then you probably need

    a hubcentric spacer ring.

    Be aware that some alloy wheels may need to have the center hole enlarged (machined)

    to fit over your hub.

  4. I can't help directly, I haven't experienced your symptoms, but here's a few thoughts...

    1. How do you know "it's in the fiberglass itself" and not a delayed result of incomplete surface prep?

    (it still could be the old paint job showing the delayed results of less-than-perfect surface preparation)

    2. Do you have an engine temp gauge, and if so, how hot IS the engine running? What ARE those signs of heat?

    3. Do you have an insulation blanket on the underside of the hood?

    4. Is the weatherstrip in place/intact across the underside of the rear of the hood?

    5. Any oil being slung onto the underside of the fiberglass by the engine can eventually leach through.

    6. An electric fan with a temp sensor or a delay switch could probably be rigged to move air through/out of

    the engine compartment for a few minutes after the engine is switched off, which is when engine heat

    reaches its zenith.

    7. I recall that the factory was having paint issues, although I think it was in 84 rather than 83; seems to me

    it turned out that oil was getting into the painting process via a leak in the compressed air system, but I

    don't remember details; the factory repainted a bunch of cars on warranty, but without extreme measures

    to get all traces of oil out of the fiberglass, the paint problem may recur sooner or later.

  5. The disc brakes used by Studebaker and Avanti Motors present no problem to any good tech.

    I agree. But the pads are very important... I've had some very poor experiences with

    pads from local parts stores. I buy mine from Nostalgic Motors now. Also very important is that the

    pad's path through the caliper is clean/smooth, that the rotors are not glazed or burned and at least 0.330 inches thick where the pads contact them, cylinder bores are not corroded, and that the calipers are properly shimmed to ensure they are parallel to the rotor and have equal spacing from it on both sides. There is no sound warning when the pads are getting thin (like there is in many modern cars), so you do have to check them occasionally and replace them when they get worn down.

  6. I have a '78 Avanti II and am considering some projects over the next few months.

    1. to restore rake to similar to original, has anyone heard of "drop spindles"? A buddy who talked to someone at a show heard about it.

    2. I'd like to add an original style hood ornament and see them in Avanti Int'l -- anyone done that and how do they attach?

    3. Any advice on the Turner brake conversion? My car can use some extra stopping power.

    4. Are there modifications or kits available to reduce steering turns, lock to lock?



    1. Yes, I've heard of drop spindles, usually in reference to Ford model A hot rods; but no, I haven't heard of

    dropped spindles being available for Stude Avanti suspensions, but it's possible I suppose. Or, you could install an LT1 fuel setup to provide more hood-to-engine clearance, and remove (progressively more toward the front end) some of the body spacers; that would be very expensive, but coupled with an overdrive tranny the fuel economy should improve greatly. Either way, the fender openings would overlap the tire tops a bit, which might be problematic if you hit a bump while turning into the driveway! You could also consider a lower profile tire on the front only, if you can find any to fit without rubbing... but I wouldn't recommend mixing tire profiles/tread pattern on the same vehicle.

    Dropped spindles are probably available for later Avanti's built on GM chassis (87-up).

    Check this link (IndyJimW's post in the middle of the page) http://tinyurl.com/2azfa2

    If you know a talented machinist, it might be possible to machine a Stude drop spindle from billet steel if

    you provide him with pristine original spindles to use to take measurements (high $$$$, though). But if

    I'm not mistaken (I might be), spindles are machined from drop-forged castings to add strength.

    2. The hood ornament has six posts that extend through the hood, with stamped nuts on the underside; it

    should just be a matter of finding an Avanti owner with the ornament who'll let you remove his ornament and make a paper pattern from his hood of the hole positions.

    3. Stock brakes are fine if kept in good maintenance and you use decent pads. I haven't done the Turner conversion, but many have and like it. One Avanti enthusiast decided he wanted newer technology than the Turner kit and designed his own conversion; you might try contacting him to see if you like his approach better and whether he sells the adapters (last I recall, he was trying to determine if it was a viable side business). Try this link to the Stude Avanti board for more info: http://tinyurl.com/2h8qlf

    4. Yes, $100 here: http://tinyurl.com/2e3scu (bottom of that page; stock steering knuckle with spindle is in the center of that page)

  7. Before you spend a whole lot of time on that Lincoln wheel, be sure you try it on the car, because

    most makers switched to metric bolt patterns in the past 10 years or so.

    Not all Lincolns have a pattern that will fit your car: 4.5 inches (or 114.3 mm).

    Selected models of 70-72 and 80-89 Lincoln wheels should have the same bolt pattern as your Avanti,

    among others... here's a chart for Lincolns:


    Backspacing and the diameter of the center hub hole are also potential issues, possibly even on the wheels I mentioned. Steel wheels use tapered nuts to locate and center the wheel, but alloy wheels use different style nuts and some use the hub hole as the sole method of centering... it mates with a machined spindle hub... and the nuts simply keep the wheel from sliding off the hub.

  8. What I was really surprised to see in that section, was the number of cars that seem to be running the Trans Am GTA rims [the ones with the black 'basket weave center]. I was under the impression that the Avanti bolt pattern was Ford/Mopar, and not GM. Or did they change in later years?

    Yes, they changed to a Monte Carlo chassis in 1987, so those later cars have a GM bolt pattern.

    I'm not so sure about the Dayton wires, though, because I have an 80 with the factory Dayton rims and

    I don't think they are the same as the ones in the photos you referenced, although I suppose there

    may well be different Dayton designs which could have been used.

    Your car has a 5-bolt on 4.5 inch center (Ford/Chrysler/Studebaker) pattern

  9. At AVANTISOURCE.COM/GALLERY_STUDEBAKER.HTM there are a set of rims I wonder if anybody has any idea of what they are?


    Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

    I tried enlarging the photo to see if I could get any clues, but the resolution is just too poor to get any detail at all; it's even impossible to tell if it's an alloy (mesh or lace) wheel or a wire wheel!

    I'd suggest you email the website owner to see if possibly he can get you in touch with the owner of that car,

    or even get you a higher resolution photo (maybe he had hi-res versions and resized them).

    Here are some similar alloy possibilities:








  10. Believe the bulbs may be wrong size - what is correct size? Same for all gauges?

    Shop manual says type 57R (R=red, plain 57 would have clear glass); there are 7 instrument bulbs.

    As for fogging, I would be concerned that there may be a water leak somewhere

    under the dash that is causing excess condensation.

  11. The car studders when I get on the gas. Nothing major, just a little hesitation before it start to accelerate.

    Usually due to a bad accelerator pump diaphragm in the carburetor... the purpose of the

    accelerator pump is to give an immediate shot of gas down the carb throat when you first

    push the gas pedal; if the diaphragm is bad, or if the actuating lever is misadjusted, then

    the car hesitates.

    Considering your other carb issue, perhaps it's time to rebuild the carburetor.

  12. Any help will be truly appreciated.

    lorinwarner@yahoo.com in Lowell, Vermont

    Can't really help much, as I don't currently own a late model Avanti to look at, but

    I might suggest possibly you can remove the glovebox door & lining to get some access.

    I'm not certain about the dashboard on a late model, but I vaguely remember

    years ago that I worked on the wiper mechanism (on an older '66 Avanti) by removing

    the dashtop speaker grill and speaker, then shaving the dashtop speaker opening lip slightly,

    enough to wriggle the radio out through that opening, then reaching through the hole to get to

    the mechanism on the back of the wiper motor. I think the driver-side pivot was accessible

    from under the dash. Not fun, I wouldn't want to do it again, but it worked, and I don't believe

    I had to remove the dash & A/C.

    Again, I may be totally off-base and perhaps this approach won't work at all on a late model.

    PS: one issue I had was that the passenger-side pivot had failed and the fiberglass holding that

    pivot had crumbled, so I had to re-glass that area; look for signs of damage at the base of

    the pivots, and try wiggling them to make sure they are solidly fastened.

  13. >snip<

    What make and model vehicle do I specify when searching for the wheels?


    Ray K.

    I don't have a definitive answer, but I suspect you are looking for wheels from a

    full-size Chrysler sedan from the mid to late 70's... like a New Yorker.

    Hopefully someone has a more exact application they can offer.

  14. I am restoring my 1969 Avanti II (rqa0304) back to original for next years meet. It has a delco air conditioner which I want to change back to a york unit but I need to see what the mounting and brackets look like. Can anyone help me.

    I used to own a 69, which, if I recall correctly, had a Delco A/C compressor from new... are you certain

    yours didn't begin it's life with a Delco? I sold that car to SBCA96's dad (SBCA96 posts frequently

    on this forum), so he could verify my memory.

    I also owned a 66 which did have the York, but I doubt that I have any old photos showing it (I'm away

    from home this week, so I can't dig up old photos).

    Have you checked with Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors? He may have the brackets, or at least

    know whether your car should have a Delco or York...

    call him at 248-349-4884 monday to thursday 10-4:30 eastern time.

  15. OK, I jumped in and purchased a '81 Avanti. Just had 4 new tires installed, 215/70's and a front end alignment done. I know the early 80's power steering wasn't the best and I don't care for the feel of it. The car has a nasty wander to it at low speeds, almost feels like a pin-ball machine. At speeds above 50, the steering is fine. What could I do to hopefully eliminate the wandering? Can the alignment be changed to stop the wander?

    I'm no expert, but here's a couple of my thoughts...

    Avanti steering doesn't have as positive a feel as a rack & pinion setup, but it shouldn't be annoying.

    All the adjustments in the world won't overcome worn parts, so have the front suspension closely checked before spending any more money on another alignment.

    Hard to know from the description... I would hope the alignment guy would have checked for

    worn/loose tie rod ends or bellcrank bushing or wheel bearings. Have them checked again, because they

    are the likely causes. Kingpin bushings, control arm inner bushings, and control arm outer pin bushings are also wear points that should be checked... how much mileage is on the chassis? How well does the car handle rough road conditions like pot holes? If the front end feels like a hammer hitting an anvil, the suspension is in very serious need of refurbishing due to badly-worn parts. The Avanti has a LOT of lubrication zerks, and today's fast-lube shops are used to modern cars that have NO lube fittings, so it may not have gotten proper care. The rubber in the inner control arm bushings and in the steering column rag joint doesn't last forever, either. Have a competent mechanic make a thorough check of all those items.

    Beyond that, wandering is pretty much a function of the caster setting. Positive setting = less wander, "goes where you point it", but feels a bit sluggish getting there; negative caster results in "wander" or "darting", and you have to ride herd on it. It's possible the alignment shop used Studebaker Avanti settings, which are meant for the original-equipment bias-belted tires. The toe-in setting must be modified a bit (for radial tires) to get closer to a zero setting than the stock Stude setting.

    What was the wear pattern on the old tires? Was the wander present BEFORE the tires were replaced?

    Did you have the impression the alignment shop knew how to adjust the old kingpin suspension system?

    In many shops they never see kingpins, only ball joint suspensions. Modern shops can give you a computer readout (from the alignment machine) of the settings before and after the alignment. Ask your regular mechanic where he'd go for an alignment... the local tire store is generally NOT the most competent at doing alignments, although some ARE.

    I don't have my shop manual or other references available to me today, but here's a link to some

    alignment specs:


    It says the caster setting is -3/4 to +3/4 degree, with zero degrees preferred... I would make sure

    it's set to zero or slightly positive... and the toe-in should be 1/16 to 1/8 inch rather than the Stude spec of 3/16 to 1/4.

    I think there are also adjustments that can be made to the power steering but usually that simply centers the valve so that the car doesn't have a tendency to pull to one (the same) side when the steering wheel is centered. The steering gearbox also has a centering and snugness adjustment, but I'd only ask a professional to play with that, and then only if he has the Avanti shop manual in front of him; the Avanti shop manual should cover those adjustments.

  16. The bad news is that I now have a depths-of-hell-banshee squeal from the new pads. I have bedded them in using the method of several low speed stops consecutively, and then some moderately high speed stops. They don't squeal at all in very light or very heavy applications, only in that middle area where you do 90% of your braking! Is there any value in anti-squeal stuff on the pads? Can I expect this to improve with use or do I need to think of turning the rotors now? They are original, 58K miles, and did not exhibit undue runout.

    I've had lousy luck buying pads at the local parts stores over the years, sounds like you did, too.

    As I found out, saving a few bucks on pads is false economy.

    Order a set of pads from Nostalgic Motors: 1-800-avanti1 ($40 + shipping)

    If the rotors are excessively shiny or have a lot of grooves or pits, then take the time to remove them

    and have them turned (I always implore the shop to take only a minimal cut to smooth the rotor face, to

    prolong the life of the rotors, which cost about $250 each).

  17. Take a look at this webpage: http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3/avantiWAS.txt

    I believe stock tires were 205/75-15

    A common size used as a replacement is 215/70-15; I recently bought Yokohama Avid

    Touring whitewalls in the 215 size ("S"-rated). In a blackwall I'd recommend Goodyear

    tires in either the ComforTred or TripleTred, or Yokohama AVID TRZ (all are "T"-rated);

    if comfort isn't a priority and you want a more aggressive tire, then Pirelli P4000.

  18. Could be just dirt around the pads, keeping one against the rotor after the pedal is released,

    ...or one pad so worn that the piston is sticking in the out position.

    1. Check the rotor faces for radial rust streaks from rainwater if the car hasn't been driven a lot recently;

    since you aren't experiencing a pull to one side, this may be the most likely cause.

    If not, and changing the pads doesn't cure it...

    2. With car jacked up and wheel removed, grip opposite sides of the rotor and wiggle it to

    check for looseness (bad/loose wheel bearings); do that again at other clock positions;

    also make sure the rotor spins freely without binding.

    3. Check to see that the rotor is centered in the caliper (use feeler gauges between the

    caliper and the rotor front & rear, on both sides)... if the measurements are not all really close,

    there are shims available for the caliper mounting bolts to correct the positioning.

    4. When a brake booster goes bad, it can cause the brake pads to stay snugged against the rotor

    (generally you'll also notice there's less than the normal brake pedal movement before the brakes firm)

    5. Measure the thickness of the rotors where the pads contact it; I believe the minimum thickness

    is 0.3 inches (don't have my shop manual handy, you'll find the minimum dimension there)

    6. Check for a warped rotor by attaching a dial indicator to the caliper and measuring runout as

    the rotor is rotated; again, the minimum allowed run-out is in the shop manual.

    7. A very slight brake fluid leak conceivably could cause pad "skipping" on the rotor surface (not likely).

    Good luck.

  19. Would like vacuum reading - can't keep car running long enough to check. Same with timing check - car won't idle on its own. Yes, car has anti-diesel/run-on solenoid mounted on carb. It's electrically operated and is functional ('bench test').

    Vacuum hose re-do and reman carb installation were done to resolve poor idle when cold and occasional bog/flat-spot when pressing accelerator. I do (just about) anything to have those 'problems' back!

    Seems to me you've eliminated the carburetor as the problem. Still sounds like a vacuum issue.

    If you haven't monkeyed with the distributor internally, or the intake manifold, or played with timing or spark plug wires (eg, you haven't done ANYTHING with the ignition since before you changed the carb), and it's secured tightly and the vacuum can on the distributor holds a vacuum applied by mouth, I would not consider it suspect (although it can't hurt to make sure it's aligned with #1 cylinder wire at TDC on the compression stroke). I would consider those new vacuum valves as suspect, though. Assuming you've convinced yourself that the vacuum hoses are connected as the diagrams show as proper, and there are not any "extra" nipples on the new valves, and since re-installing the old carb didn't fix/change the problem, it would seem prudent to backtrack on the other changes you made (like the vacuum valves). I might even be tempted to block off the holes the vacuum valves are in and simply run a ported-vacuum hose to the distributor for a test run. Also, you did not make any other alterations elsewhere, like a new heat riser valve, or other exhaust changes, etc, did you?

  20. Ideas on where to start?

    Is there a vacuum hose diagram?

    ...any and all suggestions and help is appreciated!

    It does sound like a vacuum issue, or that the choke valve is flapping loose or a butterfly valve is

    sticking or rubbing on the carb base gasket.

    I'd suggest you start by re-installing the old carburetor (if you have it) to see if it acts the same

    as the reman'd one.

    IIRC, there is a temp-operated vacuum "tree" valve sticking out of the

    thermostat housing that has 2 or 3 emissions hoses on it, and the correct match of hoses to

    ports is undoubtedly critical.

    Your best bet on a vacuum diagram would probably be to get hold of a shop

    manual for a Corvette or Chevy of that vintage.

    Or try this webpage: http://tinyurl.com/2bps5j

    Or find a stock Chevy of that vintage to look at.

    Or maybe one of these books:





  21. I don't know the definitive answer, but when I confront situations like yours,

    I usually reason "why not?, can't hurt, ...might help", and it's inexpensive.

    Anything sitting atop a hot engine is bound to get hot, and even hotter for minutes

    after you shut it down, since coolant no longer flows through the block and the

    combustion chamber and exhaust manifolds are still radiating heat.

  22. I had a Rochester quadrajet carb (for my '71) rebuilt last year by recarbco.com ...I would have done the work myself, but the carb had stripped filter housing threads that were leaking and I had no way of repairing that.

    I believe they recut the threads and used an insert. Cost me about $150 as I recall, and it looked and worked great when I got it back.

  23. Does anyone know what was the original source of the outside rearview mirrors on the 1971 Avanti II's. The driver's side door mirror on my car is a cable operated remote control, and one of the cables has snapped.


    I am pretty sure that mirror was used on series 1 Jaguar XJS, although I'm not sure why

    I think that except that I used to have an early XJS. I don't know if it has the same cable controls.

    Perhaps you can splice the cable somehow, or find a new length of cable that will work and graft it in.

    Here are a couple of photos of XJS mirrors (the first was my old XJS, the second one is on eBay right now http://tinyurl.com/395vnl ):



  24. Turns out the link you were using doesnt allow direct post

    of the pictures! When I first tried I got the same as you.


    OK, not sure I understand why the redirect is an issue, but apparently it is;

    I was coding it properly, but the url link wasn't working when used with that coding.


    Here's the third photo with the tank installed:


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