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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. It's a sickness some of us have... I'm down to 2 Avanti's at the moment, but I've owned as many as 3 at one time and I've had 6 or 7 altogether over the past 35+ years. As soon as I sell one, I miss it.

    Welcome to the club.

  2. I'd like that info, as well, for my 1971.

    I recall that I had a heck of a time a few years back trying to fit some hoses I had in storage that I thought were the correct ones for my 1971 Avanti, but I couldn't get either of them to fit. Those numbers were 1700929 and 1701855xn85. I think #1701855xn85 was supposed to be the correct lower hose, but I was unable to wrestle it onto the outlets, and it interfered with the tubes at the front of my fuel pump; I'm pretty sure I got the hoses from Nostalgic Motors. My old lower hose was a cobbled hose made of 2 shorter hoses joined by a short length of aluminized tailpipe to guard against the hose getting cut by the alternator belt (it actually was the hose that came on the car, but I had added the aluminized tube many years back when the belt had eventually worn through the hose and caused a leak). I ended up taking my old cobbled hose to a "Car Quest" parts store that allowed me to browse through their stock of hoses, and I finally settled on a #20812, which has a 1 3/4" diameter throughout. I then cut some length off of each end to wind up with a hose that worked. Another hose that looked as though it might have worked was their #20957, but I was concerned that hose would not clear the alternator belt because it lacked an offset near one end that the more expensive #20812 did have.

    I'm attaching a word file that has a photo of the hose I used, with a line superimposed on it that I thought would be the shape of the ideal hose for that application.

    Don't forget to put the spring inside that lower hose to keep it from collapsing under vacuum.

  3. Hopefully someone else will jump in with the answer. I'm surprised no one has.

    Wish I had the ambition, but I'm not going to pull a door panel apart on my car

    to see what the parts look like.

    The illustration does show the adjusting screw separate from the vent frame, so it does appear it

    should move in & out of the vent frame. If that's so, to make an adjustment I assume the screw

    has to be held by something at the washer end (at/near the door panel surface... that's the part I don't understand)

    so that turning the screw in/out of the vent frame will cause the vent frame to move.

    Can you see any rust on adjusting screw (3) where it enters the vent frame?

    Can you turn adjustment screw 4 (at the base of the widow channel)?

    I expect both adjusting screws (vent frame and end of the front guide for the side window)

    might need to be loosened, otherwise they may fight each other (but they should turn a bit, regardless).

    I would wet the base of the adjusting screw (at it's junction with the vent frame) with

    penetrating oil (I like "Kroil") and let it sit a few days, periodically tapping the end of a

    screwdriver (inserted in the adjusting screw slot) with a light hammer, then re-wetting with oil.

    After a few days, try using a screwdriver bit on a ratchet wrench to turn the adjustment screw

    (more leverage than you can get with a screwdriver handle), to try to move it slightly in both

    directions without applying enough force to damage the slot or break the screw; assuming it

    moves even a tiny bit, douse it again and let it sit overnight before trying again to unscrew it.

  4. Looking at the parts manual again in the daylight...

    The adjustment bolt is listed as 2121-4, along with a jam nut and washer.

    The adjustment bolt 2120-39 for the longer forward door run 2120-38 also lists a jam nut.

    The illustration doesn't seem to show the jam nut.

    Looking at the workshop manual... procedure for adjusting the door window and ventilator assemblies

    (page 12 in Body section). Step 1 says to first loosen 3 bolts (figure 6) at the top of the

    door below the vent window, and also loosen the adjustment locknuts at screws 2 and 4.

    Shift the vent frame forward or rearward as needed, then snug those 3 top screws.

    Then turn screw 2 in or out to adjust the top of the vent frame in or out as needed.

    Then go on to adjust the side window frame for smooth operation.

    Wish I could be there to look at the door, because it's not clear from the books exactly how the

    adjustment parts are fitted. It's also not clear whether the jam nut jams against the vent frame

    or against the washer on the screw/stud. I am imagining an adjusting stud with a slot at the end,

    and a jam nut and a washer on it; I just can't tell for certain from the illustration.

    It's also possible I'm wrong, that the adjusting stud is supposed to be frozen in the vent frame

    and the adjustment is done via a nut on the stud.

    But, the instructions say to turn the stud/screw, so my first supposition is more likely.

    You are right, there does not appear to be any way to get your arm up into that area,

    which means the lock/jam nut must be accessible from the outside... take a hard look again.

    Are you sure the adjusting screw goes directly into the vent frame, rather than into a nut

    that "appears" to be part of the frame? Must be a jam nut somewhere, even if it's only a thin one

    that looks more like it's a part of something else.

    Are the parts rusty?

    Could you provide closeup pics?

  5. I can't seem to find a good illustration of those adjusting parts,

    but I'm going to take a wild guess that there may be a jam nut on

    the adjusting screw (stud) that has to be loosened first in order to turn the

    stud shaft. Take a good look with a strong light. Then you may need a

    deep socket to loosen the nut unless you can snake a wrench behind the

    door panel fiberglass. If you've loosened the locknut and still cannot move

    the screw/stud, you may need to apply some penetrating oil, let it sit awhile,

    then work the screw in both directions every now & then and hopefully it'll

    free up eventually.

    What about the other adjusting screw (lower on the door panel)... were you

    able to get that one to move?

  6. I understand, but my car seams to have another crome ring (3/8" ish thick)/washer under the window and door crank, then door panel. So is the clip below that or between the handle and that piece?


    I think you mean the trim bezel 2117-30; the plastic washer 2117-32 is between that and the handle.

    The clip is on the handle shaft surround (eg, a short tube which is part of the handle casting and extends perhaps 1/8 inch from the bottom surface of the handle, with slots machined in it to accept the clip).

    So there's the handle, clip, plastic washer, bezel, door panel, and donut, in that order. IIRC, that plastic washer has a recessed circle (offset towards the door) in it's center that surrounds the shaft and encloses/surrounds the wire clip. So the tool has to slide between the handle and the thin plastic washer, from the end of the handle blade towards the handle shaft.

    You don't say whether you have a copy of the parts manual page, which illustrates it very clearly.

    I annotated it and attached it to this reply (click the thumbnail for a larger view)

  7. I agree with ernier. The clip is normally installed from the side of the pivot shaft away from the handle, so the tool needs to be inserted beneath/paralleling the handle, towards the shaft. The clip should be between the handle and the plastic washer (when installing, the clip is normally installed in the slot in the handle, from the side away from the handle/flipper, then the washer is placed over the shaft and the handle simply pushed down onto the shaft until the clip locks in place).

    This is the type of tool that should pop the clip free (most of the tool will be beneath the handle extension/flipper while doing this):


    If you have a parts manual, page 187 shows the exploded handle assembly; 2117-32 is the plastic washer; 2117-24 is the clip, shown properly oriented; 2117-32 is a foam donut that provides enough springiness to let you to separate the handle from the trim by pushing in on the upholstery panel so you can peek in between the handle and the trim bezel 2117-30 to see the plastic washer... you may need to use a slim putty knife to separate the washer from the handle a bit while pushing in on the upholstery panel (be careful not to damage upholstery); your clip removal tool then needs to pass between the plastic washer and the handle, flat against the bottom of the handle. It may take a little maneuvering to finally free the handle (which you should be tugging out away from the door as you manipulate the tool, although often the clip will literally fly/pop out of the assembly)

    It's always possible the last guy to have the handle off inserted the clip from the opposite side, but that's very unlikely, because of the way the slot in the handle is machined for that clip.

  8. Is there any part numbers (local part stores etc...) for the caliper kit or the hose? 1967 Avanti II.

    Not sure what you mean by a "caliper kit". I agree with Gunslinger that Avanti suppliers are the best source, especially for front brake pads (I had bad luck one time buying generic pads).

    I've collected these part numbers, but they may be obsolete:

    Front wheel cylinder seal kits are Wagner 46462 or Girling SP2556

    Front rubber hoses: NAPA 36614

    Rear rubber hose: NAPA 11146

    Front bleeder valve: Wagner 6446

    Front pads: NAPA 5702, or Wagner 702, or Raybestos PGP-D28, or Ferodo DDB-704, or EIS B502-D28

  9. ok, I got the calipers installed. I shimmed them so there was equal distance from the caliper to the rotor on the front and rear top and bottom.


    Sounds like you did the right thing... the idea is to get the rotor exactly parallel to the caliper

    and centered in the caliper slot so that both cylinders apply pressure evenly and equally to the rotor.

    I agree with Gunslinger on replacing the hoses. It almost has to be a hose, or a corroded/blocked steel brake line between the the front brake line tee fitting and the non-bleedable brake cylinders. If you haven't replaced those hoses previously, there's no telling how old they are.

  10. You piqued my curiosity... why do you need to rewire the car?

    I don't have experience with any of the manufacturers, nor have I done a re-wire,

    (aside from a rewire of my engine compartment after the right hood latch wore

    through my harness and caused a dead short, burning much of the external wiring)

    so I can't claim much first-hand expertise.

    I am also interested in early Corvettes, and I save some of the threads I read in

    Corvette forums. Some comments I've read recommend Lectric Limited, but I've

    no idea whether they make a harness for an Avanti (in fact, I'd be surprised

    if the manufacturers you mention make one specifically for Avanti).

    M&H is another vendor some Corvette owners have recommended highly, though a few

    commnents said they found LL more responsive than M&H to assisting them on the phone

    in the midst of rewiring projects.

    Personally, I'd prefer to find an NOS factory harness before going to an aftermarket harness,

    because there's less likely to be any mistakes in the harness; although, the aftermarket harness

    may enable some upgrades in terms of amperage if you are adding electrical devices.

    A few comments & ideas I've read on Corvette forums:

    Take tons of photos with a digital camera of wiring routing & connections before you remove them

    (and make an album with photo captions as you go, while you still remember which picture is of what).

    Use di-electric grease on all electric contact points, and in bulb sockets, for better contact,

    and for corrosion resistance over the years ahead.

    Lengthen any hard to access wires... for example, if wiring connectors behind the dash are difficult

    to get to, and you have to remove the dash anyway, then make the wires long enough to reach the

    removed dash, wire and test the dash before re-installing, and after dash is in, roll up the excess

    neatly and tie behind the dash; better yet, get some junction connectors and cut the wires & splice them

    to the connector(s), wire ends to be attached to the dash while it's out, then join the easier-to-reach

    junctions after the dash is reinstalled (also makes it easier if you later need to remove the dash).

    Add a fusible link to the power wire at the starter, if the harness doesn't already have one.

    Don't forget to replace the grounding straps.

    Label every connector you remove, as you remove it, and pre-label every connector on the new harness.

  11. Hi, I am Ross, Heart of Dixie SDC, Alabama. Also AOAI. I am looking for several parts, and would appreciate any help.

    1. Recarro seat adjuster covers and knobs.

    2. Outside rear view mirrors, Left and Right. Look like AMC any good repops out there?

    3. Windshield washer jug...mice.

    4. Nardi Steering wheel

    Thanks for now. Ross


    Here's some thoughts...

    I'm not sure what you are asking about the Nardi wheel... you can purchase them new or used

    (about $400 new, and $100 to $200 for decent used ones on eBay). They all have the same bolt

    pattern, 6 holes on a 2 7/8 inch circle, so the task is to find an adapter that matches your

    steering column and the Nardi, and also a pleasing horn button kit. If you remove your steering

    wheel and make a tracing of those screw holes, you can probably give that to a vendor who could

    identify the pattern (AMC column made by GM Saginaw steering, probably same bolt pattern as

    70's Chevys) and sell you an adapter. There are usually lots of Nardi wheels, various adapters

    and spacers, and Nardi horn button/trim ring kits on eBay. You can even use an adapter made

    for another wheel manufacturer, like Momo, and you'll find Momo to Nardi adapter/spacers on eBay.

    The problem is finding parts that work and with a sleeve that will cover the adapter hardware.

    I did it once, but it's so long ago I don't remember what parts I used (I picked them up at swap meets, some fit, some didn't). Avanti vendors like Nostalgic Motors might be able to help you, too.

    Wish I knew where the wiper reservoir came from, I had thought it was from a Corvette, but it

    doesn't seem to be. I'd try Nostalgic, and the NAPA catalog (in case it's an aftermarket item

    like the radiator overflow tank). Or maybe this repair kit could make it serviceable again:


    I doubt anyone has offers repop mirrors (another question for Nostalgic).

    Jaguar XJS (74-78?) had very similar mirrors to those on the Avanti, although I have no idea

    whether the mounting stem to the door surface is the same; I didn't find any vendors offering

    those XJS mirrors, so I doubt those can be found new, either... if you go the used route, that's

    a possible source for used mirrors.

    Would it not be possible to re-chrome yours (assuming you have a pair)?

  12. From the shop manual (you may have done this, but just in case):

    "1. For identification, notches are located on the lower coil of each spring. Place the top of the spring into the frame cross member and the lower end of the spring (end with notches on lower coil) on the lower control arm. the end of the lower coil must point toward the engine and be aligned with the center line of the lower control arm.

    2. Place the roller jack under the extreme outer end of the lower control arm and slowly raise the jack. Make certain the lower coil of the spring is located over the lip of the seat in the lower control arm."

    3. etc, etc

  13. The bad steering/handling I am concerned with is the 1/4 turn free play in the Steering wheel and

    the drifting of the vehicle out-of lane.

    It should be relatively easy for you or a shop to determine where any major looseness is... it should be easy enough for one person to hold parts of the steering system from beneath the car while someone rotates the steering wheel off it's center... by starting either farthest away from the steering column or just past the rag joint and then working one's way along the linkage parts to the other extreme.

    Front end alignment can play a part in drifting out of lane, also.

    But, it's never going to feel as positive as modern rack & pinion steering.

    As for the turning radius, quick steering might get you from lock/stop to lock/stop (or center position to lock/stop) with fewer turns of the wheel, but the wheel stops still determine your tightest turning radius... so don't expect a quick steering arm to let you make tighter turns.

  14. I've got a 85 Avanti with the 305 engine. The catalitic converter is gone replaced with dual exhausts. Now the air tubes that screw into the exhaust manifolds are leaking badly. I'd like to get rid of them but the mechanic says that will cause the check engine light to come on. Anybody have thoughts in this subject? Bob Fouts

    I don't have good knowledge of the '85 Avanti, so I'm not sure which exhaust manifolds you have

    (probably sheet metal Corvette or cast iron Monte Carlo, I assume the latter from your description),

    but here's some thoughts:

    1. Perhaps the injection tubes are still available from vendors; for example, here's

    an injection pipe from a Monte Carlo, still available from Delco so far as I know:


    2. Find a set of manifolds that have solid tubes; should be standard Chevy

    (or Corvette) manifolds of that era (mid 80's)

    ...try eBay, for example:





    If those look like yours, or if you have cast-iron center outlet manifolds,

    then perhaps these would be a direct replacement (if the air tubes have

    their inlet in the correct position).

    I think I have a nice set of sheet-metal injection manifolds (came off a year-old

    '84 Corvette 350); I kept them for possible future use, but never did use them.

    If you're interested, let me know and I'll see if I can take some pictures

    and maybe we can agree on a price :>)

    3. Replace the manifolds with earlier Chevy iron manifolds (or just plug the old manifolds)

    and see if the check engine light does come on.


  15. Does anyone know where or if rubber seals for the quarter windows are available.

    Try this vendor: https://www.studebakerparts.com/studebakerp...art_id=535.8112

    (2-page listing, don't forget to look at the second page)

    or, Nostalgic at 1-800-avantix (mid-week, as they aren't open some days)

    eBay is another possible source

    (and Nostalgic also sells items on eBay under the name "avantilady"... try this search:

    http://motors.shop.ebay.com/avantilady/m.h...from=&_ipg= )

    Also, see if there's a Corvette shop near you that works on the older vettes (56-67)... they may

    be able to steer you to a vendor that does soda blasting.

  16. Haven't driven mine in years, I hate to say, and interestingly, my '80 owners guide

    doesn't appear to mention that light. It seems to go on when the key is in the ignition and the

    switch is turned to any position other than the locked position. My owner's guide does mention a

    seat belt warning light that works in conjunction with the buzzer (perhaps for deaf drivers?), but

    doesn't say where it is.... my guess is it's the red light in question. The guide says the buzzer has

    a timer, to turn it off (who wants to sit parked in the car listening to the radio with the buzzer blaring

    OR with seat belts fastened), so perhaps it turns the light off as well.

    Top of page 12 in my owners manual; says the buzzer timer lasts 4 to 8 seconds.

  17. Hello,

    Can anyone advise me on what window motor to buy for my 1981 Avanti 11, the passenger side motor does not drive the gear and it appears to have a worn bearing.



    I'd be interested in a source for this one, myself. Your car may have used the same motor as the original Avanti.

    That motor was a Bosch-sourced part used on Lincolns and a few other Ford models in the very early 60's (possibly T-bird

    and Fairlane). I think they are pretty much "unobtanium" at this point (try calling Nostalgic Motors 1-800-avanti1);

    I seem to recall that when they were becoming scarce about 15 or 20 years ago, they were going for upwards of $200

    (but my memory ain't what it used to be).

    You might be better off trying to find a source to rebuild your old one; new bearings shouldn't present a serious problem

    for a rebuilder. Check the phone book for electric motor repair shops, and if they can't help you, they may be able to

    recommend someone who can. Here's one possibility from Hemmings Motor News ads:


    I think I remember seeing a quote of around $150 from a rebuilder years back, but the problem may have been more serious/

    Hopefully others will have better suggestions.

    If you get this resolved, please report back on your solution so the rest of us can learn from your experience.

    Hang on!!! I may have been too quick to assume the PW motor in your '81 is the same as the original; in perusing the

    Avanti Magazine, I see that one vendor (Myers Studebaker Parts 1-740-674-4897) offers motors for '63-'72 Avanti's

    for $195 (repops, I think)... perhaps either he or Nostalgic can tell you what your '81 car requires.

  18. Today the smoke escaped from the main wiring harness of my Avanti. I just hate it when that happens.

    I can empathize.

    Happened to me on my '71 about 20 years ago... in heavy traffic on a Los Angeles freeway without a shoulder,

    when I suddenly lost all accessories and instruments. My first clue was when the aftermarket cruise control I

    had recently installed abruptly dropped out of cruise, and the ammeter pegged, but I had to get to an exit to stop;

    I thought I'd done something wrong while installing the cruise wiring. By the time I got to the exit I could

    see and smell smoke. I pulled over as soon as I could and turned off the ignition key but the engine kept running

    and the harness kept smoking until I was able to disconnect a battery cable. By then the burn(s) trashed everthing

    to within about 2 to 4 inches of the hole in the firewall, but was otherwise confined to the engine compartment;

    all wiring insulation therein was completely melted. I don't think anything else was harmed, except maybe the

    alternator diodes. As it turned out, the harness had rubbed against the passenger-side hood latch until it wore

    through the insulation and shorted out... apparently a harness fastener in that area had come loose, allowing the

    insulation damage over time and I didn't notice it.

    I was a couple of blocks from a hardware store, so I walked there and purchased some wire, terminals, and a

    wire-crimping tool and managed to get it running again to complete the 50-mile trek home. I replaced

    the rest of the wiring myself at home, soldering the splices. Still looks pretty ugly near the firewall (I keep

    forgetting to look for a decent-looking plastic box of an appropriate size to cover the bulge of all those

    splices), and I couldn't find the insulation colors to replicate the original wiring colors. I used electrical tape,

    and the split flexible-plastic tubing used on later automobiles, to hide more ugly repairs and the

    mis-matched colors. It was tedious but it worked out fine. If I'd had to replace wiring under the dash, it

    might've turned out to be a really, really nasty task.

  19. I am new to Avanti...but am a 50 year hot rodder....I am currently watching a darelict Avanti and trying to find the owner.....It appears to be restoreable, not wrecked but in bad shape. The vin is: 12aav1230j1000251 It has a chevy motor with 4 center bolt valve covers and wire wheels, and 34k orig. miles...... I have zero, zip, nada information on this car but it could be an interesting long term project.....Any info would be helpful in making a decision to make an offer if it becomes available. please contact Bill 352-475-3190 or wildfelr@copper.net or here for everyone to enjoy.Thanks ....Bill

    If I read the serial correctly, it is #251 built in 1988. Brings decent, not great, money in good shape.

    What looks so bad about this 35k mile car? If the hog troughs (below the rocker panels) are good,

    then you're probably looking at cosmetics, which can get pretty expensive if you need to replace

    the upholstery, rugs, weatherseals, glass, rechrome, paint, dash wood, etc. It all adds up, certainly

    more than $10k for all that, and a few grand more if it needs new hog troughs.

    A nice 87 convertible with 35k miles was recently advertised for $18k (although I've certainly seen sellers

    ask/expect much more, like: http://shrunklink.com/chgl ) so this one isn't going to bring all that much even after restoration.

    Add up the repairs and the price the owner wants, and ask yourself if the hassle of doing a restore is worthwhile.

    Now, OTOH, it's nice if you want to do a restore for the satisfaction of doing the work and returning a neat car to it's former glory.

    War story:

    I ran across a convertible in poor shape about 10 years ago, sitting with a plastic tarp tied over it, 4 flat tires,

    rims buried in the mud, shredded top & trashed interior, cracked windshield, engine compartment chock full of pine needles,

    rust & mold everywhere, etc, obviously had been there for years. Can't recall mileage or exact year. A sad sight.

    The body panels looked OK, just needed repaint. I couldn't see the hog troughs because the car was flat on the ground.

    The guy who owned the property (there were a dozen other cars parked/stored on his property, for fee) said he thought

    the owner would sell it really cheap because it had been sitting for years and...

    - he was having trouble getting the guy to pay even token storage fees, even when he threatened to have it towed away.

    - the guy had told him numerous times that he was out of work and in serious money trouble, and he looked it.

    - he'd inherited the car some years back, as it sat, from his dead father.

    Glove compartment was full of old parking violation notices, and I found out there was a lien listed against it

    he hadn't mentioned (DMV couldn't tell me how much, it was with a finance co); his dead father was still

    listed as owner because the title was never transferred, nor were annual registration fees paid.

    When I asked about the lien, he said he wasn't aware of it, but I'd have to pay that, too, whatever it was.

    Then he demanded nearly as much as buying a nice one: $15k!!! because "somebody" told him "it's a very rare car,

    worth at least $16 to $20k" ... so it was just a waste of time. I never did find out the total of the lien, parking tickets,

    and past DMV fees.

    Here's some info on Avanti:



    here's a guy who has hot-rodded his chassis to the max (but this car had a Stude chassis, not a GM chassis like the 88):



    The newest Avanti's:


  20. Wayne,

    I took the complete window assembly out of the door. After laying it out on my work bench, I dicovered that the main (LIFTING) spring was in two pieces. I located a new spring and installed it with the window at the top location (NOT KNOWING THE ORIGINAL POSITION). The window works but very slow going up. My question is how do you load that spring? Someone must know the procedure. Thankyou for the feedback. Frank

    Frank, I may be beating this one to death, but no one else has yet answered, so perhaps no one knows the

    EXACT procedure, since it's not in the shop manual... the factory itself probably got the assembly from a

    vendor. I still think the method I used was to use the motor itself to pre-load the spring.

    For this explanation, I am referring to the LF door mechanism because you didn't mention which one you

    are working on. If you are working on the RF door, the the description of moving the big gear clockwise

    and counter-clockwise need to be reversed. (and, I may even be mixed up myself on the direction of rotation,

    but that's the way it appears to work from looking at the parts manual), hopefully you know which direction

    the spring you removed was coiled, so you'll know which direction to move the gear to unload or pre-load.

    With the motor REMOVED, and the spring off, you can swing that large half-circle gear with the teeth all the

    way counter-clockwise, right off the gear that drives it, and beyond (holding the motor/spring frame in a

    fixed position)... then find an appropriate position to slip the spring on, swing the half-circle back clockwise

    (whilst compressing the spring) until it again engages the drive gear, and then re-attach the motor and apply

    12v intermittently to the motor harness, spinning the motor to continue to swing the half-circle to load/compress

    the spring and move the arm until, say, the half-circle gear is centered in the assembly or somewhere very

    near where it was when you removed the assembly. Put it back in the door, align the pivot arms to the guide

    tracks and re-install the arm pins in the rollers.

    You may also be able to do this without the motor attached, by manually spinning the motor coupler,

    but that will be tedious, and likely impossible with a compressed spring in place. You might also be able

    to use an electric drill to spin the worm gear instead of the window motor.

    You could even swing the half-circle through several revolutions to pre-load the spring, if need be, although

    I doubt that is necessary; you should be able to tell by how closely the coils are compressed; obviously if

    you pre-load too much, you cannot move the half-circle gear fully through it's required normal rotation on

    the drive gear, so the spring is compressed too much and you need to unload the spring, remove it, back off

    a half or full rotation, and re-insert the spring... nor do you want the coil to bind upon itself.... or, compare the

    coil spacing to the coil in the other door as a guide to proper compression.

    Other reasons for the window working slowly, though, are possibly that it's sticking in the guides and the

    rear guide needs to be adjusted, the felt in the guides is deteriorating, or that a roller or two are breaking

    down and dragging in the track (or they need lubrication).

    PS, I would replace the motor coupler and the rollers with new ones while I had the assembly out, as

    preventive maintenance, and lube the gears, tracks, pivots, and other moving/rubbing parts lightly with

    white lithium grease.

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