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WayneC

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Posts posted by WayneC

  1. Congratulations! I too, own a '71. You don't mention whether you have previously owned any Studebakers.

    1. Are there shop, body, and chassis manuals, if so who has them and are they as complete as the studebaker manuals?

    No, the Stude manuals still apply to almost everything except the engine & transmission

    2. SI has some parts, but not many Avanti II parts, who are the principle suppliers?

    The primary source for parts is Nostalgic Motor Cars in Wixom MI; unfortunately their website seems

    to have been abandoned about 4 years ago, but you can reach them at 1-800-avanti1. They bought out

    nearly all the pre-1985 Avanti 2 parts from Avanti Motor Co when Avanti went out of business.

    Another source is eBay, and in fact Nostalgic often lists parts there under the name "Avantilady"

    Nostalgic can also provide you with a copy of the original build order for your Avanti.

    Here is another parts vendor: http://www.avantiparts.biz/servlet/StoreFront

    Other vendors do carry parts, especially those parts that are common to the original Stude Avanti,

    and there are some aftermarket parts like exhaust systems.

    Some vendors advertise in Avanti Magazine, the AOAI club publication: https://www.aoai.org/shop/home.php?cat=1

    They also sell a set of 5 CD's of all their issues (I have stacks of the magazine, so I haven't popped for the Cd's): https://www.aoai.org/shop/home.php?cat=3

    Here is a website with a lot of good info: http://www.studebaker-info.org/

    3. On the 71 is the battery properly mounted in the trunk, if so should it be contained?

    No. it is normally inside the left front fender (front corner). Trunk batteries should be vented

    outside the car, but you'd have to make your own provisions to do that.

    4. Does the 71 have ignition suppression shielding, if so what does it look like, as it was not apparent on the 71 (and the radio did not work)?

    Mine did not have shielding, and it hasn't been a problem. Corvette ignition shielding could be added if you so desire. Actually, shielding probably does more for other nearby vehicles than for yours. I converted my car to an an HEI distributor, IIRC (it's been a long time, I've owned several Avanti's, and converted several in those years).

    5. What about engine, transmission parts, is there a separate GM book for that, and does it make more sense to replace with crate motor, transmission vs. overhaul?

    Chevy small blocks are Chevy small blocks, there is tons of info on them; my tranny is a Turbo400, yours

    probably is, too.

    If you are concerned with originality, then rebuild the engine, otherwise it is probably more cost-effective

    to go with a crate engine (like a ZZ4), and a 4-speed Chevy automatic would improve your mileage (700R4, for example). At one point, I replaced my original engine with one from an '84 Corvette.

    6. The AC compressor is missing, what type compressor is used and who might have it and what ever brackets may be used?

    I'm having a senior moment, I can't remember the maker of the a/c compressor (it's the square aluminum casting pump used by Stude and Ford). But I had a '69 at one time that used the GM a/c compressor (apparently Avanti used whatever was available and cheapest at the time of build)... brackets are readily available for those; any good a/c shop can probably do the plumbing for either type.

    Finally does anyone have pictures of the engine compartment of a 71 that they could email (renda1007@yahoo.com).

    I am familiar with 63-64 motor compartment and this 71 looks like it is missing some parts and/or has some "jack-leg" changes.

    I can send you some photos of my engine compartment, although it would take a day or two to get better pics of the engine compartment (which isn't in as good condition as the body & interior), but as I said, it's not completely original. I'll attach two photos I was able to find quickly.

    Here is a webpage with a number of Avanti photos: http://www.studebaker-info.org/

    Any help would be appreciated Ken, Deltaville Va

    You're at the right place to ask. Good place to post when you've found a parts source or made a satisfying

    modification, also, its the way we all learn more about our Avanti's.

    Wayne

  2. I don't have direct knowledge, except to say that GM built steering columns for several

    other car manufacturers, including AMC and Chrysler, I believe.

    I'm surprised the locksmith you consulted said he can't get parts, I would have to think

    the internal parts are more than likely still available, even though the complete column isn't,

    maybe even from aftermarket parts suppliers. What parts, exactly, do you need? The lock cylinder

    itself should be easy.

    My guess is that the 7-digit number (7811079)is probably the GM part number for the column assembly.

    I have a partial listing of parts for '65 to '70 Avanti that lists a part number 1561594x41,

    and I suspect the first 7 digits may be a GM part number... your column may be a later version.

    I doubt you need to buy an exact replacement column... you may be able to buy a similar column,

    disassemble the lock and use the parts for your column, as I suspect the internals are

    pretty much the same for those early 70's GM columns.

    Probably best to get parts that come with an ignition key, but a locksmith can probably

    make a key for whatever you do find.

    Or, possibly even disassemble your column and take photos of the parts you need (for comparison

    purposes, marked with measurements you take) and try some specialty parts vendors, like these:

    http://stolenandrecovered.com/parts2/rack.php

    http://www.carlocksandkeys.com/servlet/the-ALL/keyword/GMC-ignition-Lock/Categories

    http://www.gmtiltsteeringcolumn.com/

    Even eBay:

    http://tinyurl.com/2g5gftu

    http://tinyurl.com/2abofc7

    Here's some info I found on 70's Corvettes, which might possibly have the same internals as your car:

    "Standard Columns 1969 through 1976.

    Ignition Switch All Corvette standard (non-adjustable) columns used the same GM ignition

    switch from 1969 through 1979. Reminder: standard columns have one type switch, adjustable

    columns have a different switch. Even though your Corvette wiring harness will connect to

    either switch, the steering column rod pushes to actuate the standard switch (GM 1990115)

    into the START position whereas the T&T steering column rod pulls to actuate the T&T switch

    (GM 1990116) to the START position.

    Ignition Lock Cylinder (1969 – 1978) All GM columns use interchangeable ignition lock

    cylinders from 1969 thru 1978 (GM 20071252).

    Key Warning Buzzer Switch (1969 – 1979) Available from GM.

    Used on all standard GM columns of that era (GM 7804414)."

    You can check availability of GM part numbers here: http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/

    (your column number didn't get a hit, but I didn't really expect it would)

    Lastly, it might be worth contacting Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motorcars to see if he

    has any info or parts (he might even have complete columns, but I expect they would

    be expen$ive, whereas replacement lock parts should be much more reasonable); it's

    possible he'd know the AMC model that used the same column, assuming one did.

    Good luck, and please share (with us) any info you gain in your quest.

  3. If you don't already have one, get hold of an Avanti parts book for parts numbers and

    illustrations of body parts... for example: http://tinyurl.com/26l62e3

    When you look for body parts, be aware Avanti II has a different wheel opening than the original Avanti's since the fender sits higher (body mounts are shimmed to raise the front end, so the stance of the Avanti II is more level than was the original, thus the wheel well of the outer fender skin had to be filled a few inches at the top to compensate). Most of the other panels for a 64 Avanti are likely the same as Avanti II (63 front panels are different).

    Looks like it took a pretty hard hit... the brake booster & master cylinder appear to be pushed

    upward, which means there may be firewall damage in addition to the extensive front & left quarter damage; right fender may be repairable, although the repairs would be noticeable on the inside. Frame needs to be checked dimensionally.

    As others mentioned, Dan Boothe at Nostalgic Motors is probably your best parts source.

    He may even be able to recommend a shop in your part of the country.

  4. Just a thought... I upgraded by installing a stock mid-70's Chevy HEI distributor and 8mm spark plug wires in my '71 Avanti years ago. It's been trouble-free.

    Can't recall any issues except I had to replace a resistor wire (pink) with a normal wire, use larger wire guides, and also had to find the proper connectors to attach the 12v feed and the tach wire to the distributor.

    Maybe someone else can chime in who has done an HEI swap recently.

  5. Thank you all for your help. This is a great club to belong to. Everyone is very helpful and I appreciate it. I've got the hoses on now and am driving the car. Thanks again!

    Steve

    ??????? It's not fair to leave us hanging, ya gotta give us feedback as part

    of the deal... what did you end up using?

  6. It's a sickness some of us have... I'm down to 2 Avanti's at the moment, but I've owned as many as 3 at one time and I've had 6 or 7 altogether over the past 35+ years. As soon as I sell one, I miss it.

    Welcome to the club.

  7. I'd like that info, as well, for my 1971.

    I recall that I had a heck of a time a few years back trying to fit some hoses I had in storage that I thought were the correct ones for my 1971 Avanti, but I couldn't get either of them to fit. Those numbers were 1700929 and 1701855xn85. I think #1701855xn85 was supposed to be the correct lower hose, but I was unable to wrestle it onto the outlets, and it interfered with the tubes at the front of my fuel pump; I'm pretty sure I got the hoses from Nostalgic Motors. My old lower hose was a cobbled hose made of 2 shorter hoses joined by a short length of aluminized tailpipe to guard against the hose getting cut by the alternator belt (it actually was the hose that came on the car, but I had added the aluminized tube many years back when the belt had eventually worn through the hose and caused a leak). I ended up taking my old cobbled hose to a "Car Quest" parts store that allowed me to browse through their stock of hoses, and I finally settled on a #20812, which has a 1 3/4" diameter throughout. I then cut some length off of each end to wind up with a hose that worked. Another hose that looked as though it might have worked was their #20957, but I was concerned that hose would not clear the alternator belt because it lacked an offset near one end that the more expensive #20812 did have.

    I'm attaching a word file that has a photo of the hose I used, with a line superimposed on it that I thought would be the shape of the ideal hose for that application.

    Don't forget to put the spring inside that lower hose to keep it from collapsing under vacuum.

  8. Hopefully someone else will jump in with the answer. I'm surprised no one has.

    Wish I had the ambition, but I'm not going to pull a door panel apart on my car

    to see what the parts look like.

    The illustration does show the adjusting screw separate from the vent frame, so it does appear it

    should move in & out of the vent frame. If that's so, to make an adjustment I assume the screw

    has to be held by something at the washer end (at/near the door panel surface... that's the part I don't understand)

    so that turning the screw in/out of the vent frame will cause the vent frame to move.

    Can you see any rust on adjusting screw (3) where it enters the vent frame?

    Can you turn adjustment screw 4 (at the base of the widow channel)?

    I expect both adjusting screws (vent frame and end of the front guide for the side window)

    might need to be loosened, otherwise they may fight each other (but they should turn a bit, regardless).

    I would wet the base of the adjusting screw (at it's junction with the vent frame) with

    penetrating oil (I like "Kroil") and let it sit a few days, periodically tapping the end of a

    screwdriver (inserted in the adjusting screw slot) with a light hammer, then re-wetting with oil.

    After a few days, try using a screwdriver bit on a ratchet wrench to turn the adjustment screw

    (more leverage than you can get with a screwdriver handle), to try to move it slightly in both

    directions without applying enough force to damage the slot or break the screw; assuming it

    moves even a tiny bit, douse it again and let it sit overnight before trying again to unscrew it.

  9. Looking at the parts manual again in the daylight...

    The adjustment bolt is listed as 2121-4, along with a jam nut and washer.

    The adjustment bolt 2120-39 for the longer forward door run 2120-38 also lists a jam nut.

    The illustration doesn't seem to show the jam nut.

    Looking at the workshop manual... procedure for adjusting the door window and ventilator assemblies

    (page 12 in Body section). Step 1 says to first loosen 3 bolts (figure 6) at the top of the

    door below the vent window, and also loosen the adjustment locknuts at screws 2 and 4.

    Shift the vent frame forward or rearward as needed, then snug those 3 top screws.

    Then turn screw 2 in or out to adjust the top of the vent frame in or out as needed.

    Then go on to adjust the side window frame for smooth operation.

    Wish I could be there to look at the door, because it's not clear from the books exactly how the

    adjustment parts are fitted. It's also not clear whether the jam nut jams against the vent frame

    or against the washer on the screw/stud. I am imagining an adjusting stud with a slot at the end,

    and a jam nut and a washer on it; I just can't tell for certain from the illustration.

    It's also possible I'm wrong, that the adjusting stud is supposed to be frozen in the vent frame

    and the adjustment is done via a nut on the stud.

    But, the instructions say to turn the stud/screw, so my first supposition is more likely.

    You are right, there does not appear to be any way to get your arm up into that area,

    which means the lock/jam nut must be accessible from the outside... take a hard look again.

    Are you sure the adjusting screw goes directly into the vent frame, rather than into a nut

    that "appears" to be part of the frame? Must be a jam nut somewhere, even if it's only a thin one

    that looks more like it's a part of something else.

    Are the parts rusty?

    Could you provide closeup pics?

  10. I can't seem to find a good illustration of those adjusting parts,

    but I'm going to take a wild guess that there may be a jam nut on

    the adjusting screw (stud) that has to be loosened first in order to turn the

    stud shaft. Take a good look with a strong light. Then you may need a

    deep socket to loosen the nut unless you can snake a wrench behind the

    door panel fiberglass. If you've loosened the locknut and still cannot move

    the screw/stud, you may need to apply some penetrating oil, let it sit awhile,

    then work the screw in both directions every now & then and hopefully it'll

    free up eventually.

    What about the other adjusting screw (lower on the door panel)... were you

    able to get that one to move?

  11. I understand, but my car seams to have another crome ring (3/8" ish thick)/washer under the window and door crank, then door panel. So is the clip below that or between the handle and that piece?

    Rich

    I think you mean the trim bezel 2117-30; the plastic washer 2117-32 is between that and the handle.

    The clip is on the handle shaft surround (eg, a short tube which is part of the handle casting and extends perhaps 1/8 inch from the bottom surface of the handle, with slots machined in it to accept the clip).

    So there's the handle, clip, plastic washer, bezel, door panel, and donut, in that order. IIRC, that plastic washer has a recessed circle (offset towards the door) in it's center that surrounds the shaft and encloses/surrounds the wire clip. So the tool has to slide between the handle and the thin plastic washer, from the end of the handle blade towards the handle shaft.

    You don't say whether you have a copy of the parts manual page, which illustrates it very clearly.

    I annotated it and attached it to this reply (click the thumbnail for a larger view)

  12. I agree with ernier. The clip is normally installed from the side of the pivot shaft away from the handle, so the tool needs to be inserted beneath/paralleling the handle, towards the shaft. The clip should be between the handle and the plastic washer (when installing, the clip is normally installed in the slot in the handle, from the side away from the handle/flipper, then the washer is placed over the shaft and the handle simply pushed down onto the shaft until the clip locks in place).

    This is the type of tool that should pop the clip free (most of the tool will be beneath the handle extension/flipper while doing this):

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KI10TC

    If you have a parts manual, page 187 shows the exploded handle assembly; 2117-32 is the plastic washer; 2117-24 is the clip, shown properly oriented; 2117-32 is a foam donut that provides enough springiness to let you to separate the handle from the trim by pushing in on the upholstery panel so you can peek in between the handle and the trim bezel 2117-30 to see the plastic washer... you may need to use a slim putty knife to separate the washer from the handle a bit while pushing in on the upholstery panel (be careful not to damage upholstery); your clip removal tool then needs to pass between the plastic washer and the handle, flat against the bottom of the handle. It may take a little maneuvering to finally free the handle (which you should be tugging out away from the door as you manipulate the tool, although often the clip will literally fly/pop out of the assembly)

    It's always possible the last guy to have the handle off inserted the clip from the opposite side, but that's very unlikely, because of the way the slot in the handle is machined for that clip.

  13. Is there any part numbers (local part stores etc...) for the caliper kit or the hose? 1967 Avanti II.

    Not sure what you mean by a "caliper kit". I agree with Gunslinger that Avanti suppliers are the best source, especially for front brake pads (I had bad luck one time buying generic pads).

    I've collected these part numbers, but they may be obsolete:

    Front wheel cylinder seal kits are Wagner 46462 or Girling SP2556

    Front rubber hoses: NAPA 36614

    Rear rubber hose: NAPA 11146

    Front bleeder valve: Wagner 6446

    Front pads: NAPA 5702, or Wagner 702, or Raybestos PGP-D28, or Ferodo DDB-704, or EIS B502-D28

  14. ok, I got the calipers installed. I shimmed them so there was equal distance from the caliper to the rotor on the front and rear top and bottom.

    <snip>

    Sounds like you did the right thing... the idea is to get the rotor exactly parallel to the caliper

    and centered in the caliper slot so that both cylinders apply pressure evenly and equally to the rotor.

    I agree with Gunslinger on replacing the hoses. It almost has to be a hose, or a corroded/blocked steel brake line between the the front brake line tee fitting and the non-bleedable brake cylinders. If you haven't replaced those hoses previously, there's no telling how old they are.

  15. You piqued my curiosity... why do you need to rewire the car?

    I don't have experience with any of the manufacturers, nor have I done a re-wire,

    (aside from a rewire of my engine compartment after the right hood latch wore

    through my harness and caused a dead short, burning much of the external wiring)

    so I can't claim much first-hand expertise.

    I am also interested in early Corvettes, and I save some of the threads I read in

    Corvette forums. Some comments I've read recommend Lectric Limited, but I've

    no idea whether they make a harness for an Avanti (in fact, I'd be surprised

    if the manufacturers you mention make one specifically for Avanti).

    M&H is another vendor some Corvette owners have recommended highly, though a few

    commnents said they found LL more responsive than M&H to assisting them on the phone

    in the midst of rewiring projects.

    Personally, I'd prefer to find an NOS factory harness before going to an aftermarket harness,

    because there's less likely to be any mistakes in the harness; although, the aftermarket harness

    may enable some upgrades in terms of amperage if you are adding electrical devices.

    A few comments & ideas I've read on Corvette forums:

    Take tons of photos with a digital camera of wiring routing & connections before you remove them

    (and make an album with photo captions as you go, while you still remember which picture is of what).

    Use di-electric grease on all electric contact points, and in bulb sockets, for better contact,

    and for corrosion resistance over the years ahead.

    Lengthen any hard to access wires... for example, if wiring connectors behind the dash are difficult

    to get to, and you have to remove the dash anyway, then make the wires long enough to reach the

    removed dash, wire and test the dash before re-installing, and after dash is in, roll up the excess

    neatly and tie behind the dash; better yet, get some junction connectors and cut the wires & splice them

    to the connector(s), wire ends to be attached to the dash while it's out, then join the easier-to-reach

    junctions after the dash is reinstalled (also makes it easier if you later need to remove the dash).

    Add a fusible link to the power wire at the starter, if the harness doesn't already have one.

    Don't forget to replace the grounding straps.

    Label every connector you remove, as you remove it, and pre-label every connector on the new harness.

  16. Hi, I am Ross, Heart of Dixie SDC, Alabama. Also AOAI. I am looking for several parts, and would appreciate any help.

    1. Recarro seat adjuster covers and knobs.

    2. Outside rear view mirrors, Left and Right. Look like AMC any good repops out there?

    3. Windshield washer jug...mice.

    4. Nardi Steering wheel

    Thanks for now. Ross

    rdjohnson71@bellsouth.net

    Here's some thoughts...

    I'm not sure what you are asking about the Nardi wheel... you can purchase them new or used

    (about $400 new, and $100 to $200 for decent used ones on eBay). They all have the same bolt

    pattern, 6 holes on a 2 7/8 inch circle, so the task is to find an adapter that matches your

    steering column and the Nardi, and also a pleasing horn button kit. If you remove your steering

    wheel and make a tracing of those screw holes, you can probably give that to a vendor who could

    identify the pattern (AMC column made by GM Saginaw steering, probably same bolt pattern as

    70's Chevys) and sell you an adapter. There are usually lots of Nardi wheels, various adapters

    and spacers, and Nardi horn button/trim ring kits on eBay. You can even use an adapter made

    for another wheel manufacturer, like Momo, and you'll find Momo to Nardi adapter/spacers on eBay.

    The problem is finding parts that work and with a sleeve that will cover the adapter hardware.

    I did it once, but it's so long ago I don't remember what parts I used (I picked them up at swap meets, some fit, some didn't). Avanti vendors like Nostalgic Motors might be able to help you, too.

    Wish I knew where the wiper reservoir came from, I had thought it was from a Corvette, but it

    doesn't seem to be. I'd try Nostalgic, and the NAPA catalog (in case it's an aftermarket item

    like the radiator overflow tank). Or maybe this repair kit could make it serviceable again:

    http://tinyurl.com/y88znq2

    I doubt anyone has offers repop mirrors (another question for Nostalgic).

    Jaguar XJS (74-78?) had very similar mirrors to those on the Avanti, although I have no idea

    whether the mounting stem to the door surface is the same; I didn't find any vendors offering

    those XJS mirrors, so I doubt those can be found new, either... if you go the used route, that's

    a possible source for used mirrors.

    Would it not be possible to re-chrome yours (assuming you have a pair)?

  17. From the shop manual (you may have done this, but just in case):

    "1. For identification, notches are located on the lower coil of each spring. Place the top of the spring into the frame cross member and the lower end of the spring (end with notches on lower coil) on the lower control arm. the end of the lower coil must point toward the engine and be aligned with the center line of the lower control arm.

    2. Place the roller jack under the extreme outer end of the lower control arm and slowly raise the jack. Make certain the lower coil of the spring is located over the lip of the seat in the lower control arm."

    3. etc, etc

  18. The bad steering/handling I am concerned with is the 1/4 turn free play in the Steering wheel and

    the drifting of the vehicle out-of lane.

    It should be relatively easy for you or a shop to determine where any major looseness is... it should be easy enough for one person to hold parts of the steering system from beneath the car while someone rotates the steering wheel off it's center... by starting either farthest away from the steering column or just past the rag joint and then working one's way along the linkage parts to the other extreme.

    Front end alignment can play a part in drifting out of lane, also.

    But, it's never going to feel as positive as modern rack & pinion steering.

    As for the turning radius, quick steering might get you from lock/stop to lock/stop (or center position to lock/stop) with fewer turns of the wheel, but the wheel stops still determine your tightest turning radius... so don't expect a quick steering arm to let you make tighter turns.

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