Report '88 Coupe - Power Windows in 1984-91 Avanti Posted March 4, 2007 So, is there another way of going about this without redoing the fiberglass holes? Say, fabricating an add-on patch plate/bracket. By the way, my Avanti is a daily driver (107,000mi).a Bill Daly I repaired the problem on the passenger door on one of my Avantis (a 66, I believe) some years back by fabricating a bracket of stiff aircraft-grade sheet aluminum, about a sixteenth inch thick. I had some elongated holes and some cracks in the fiberglass, and you could plainly see the door panel bulging inward as the window was operated. I cannot recall or describe exactly what I did, but I was able to fashion an odd-shaped flat piece, perhaps a foot long, that nestled in a depression that connects various mounting holes of the mechanisms involved (motor and regulator). I started by roughing it out on thin cardboard, then drawing it precisely on paper (I was once a draftsman), with dimensions between the holes, making a cardboard pattern from that drawing, trial fitting it, reiterating until I had a pattern that appeared to fit properly, whereupon I traced it to the aluminum and fabricated a bracket. Once the holes are elongated, however, it's tough to know exactly where they are supposed to be, hence my trial & error approach with the cardboard patterns.... apparently I located the holes with sufficient accuracy to do the job; it would be nice to have a car without the problem to use for measurements, and in fact you may be able to use the opposite door to assist in making a mirror-image pattern. I vaguely remember having a problem (with the new bracket in place) remounting the armrest bracket, and with the rod/wire actuator from the inside door lock lever; I can't remember exactly what I did to overcome those issues, except to say they weren't major stumbling blocks. I roughed the surfaces of the door and the bracket, epoxied the bracket into place on the passenger compartment side of the door (I think I ended up using several slightly longer screws), and the window worked fine thereafter. The trick is to encompass as many mechanism mounting holes as possible with the bracket, since the forces brought into play by these components push/pull against each other, eventually fatiguing the fiberglass. I have no idea whether the door panel on your later model car is the same as the one I repaired. I've since sold that car, but I may have the pattern/drawing I used for the bracket somewhere in the boxes of auto junk in my garage... If you email me, I'll look for it, and if I find it, perhaps I can take a digital photo of it for you to give you a better idea of the bracket I fashioned.