IndyJimW
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Posts posted by IndyJimW
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Yes. The ECM will not hold base time unless you disconnect the distributor to ECM wire.
I'll check tomorrow on the wire colors, but it will be a single wire with a connector.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Get engine to operating temperature. Disconnect single wire connector in engine harness between distributor and ECM.
Setting should be on Emission sticker, or set to 6*.Reconnect wire connector.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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23 hours ago, studegary said:
Instead of replacing the fuse (again), measure the resistance across it. If blown, it will show as an open. I am thinking that you probably have a stop light switch problem.
Here in the shop we have received many warnings and a Federal RECALL of cheap China made fuses.
In the last 10 years I have seen a hand full of glass fuses that are defective.
The center element of the fuse is not blown but the end caps are not fully attached to the element.
These will ohm OK (0 ohms) and test OK for voltage (12.6 volts), but will not carry amps.
The only way you can find them is to Load test the system with a LoadPro or use a small headlight with alligator clips.
Imagine a 12 gauge wire that is cut except for 1 stain of wire. It will pass a ohm and voltage test.
So yes, I would replace the fuse again, its cheap and may save a lot of time.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Pull the plug on the switch and use a jumper wire to complete the circuit. If it works the switch is bad, if not it could be in the turn signal switch.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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I’d replace the fuse again. Just because it’s new and looks ok doesn’t mean it’s working. I’ve wasted many an hour over a fuse that looked good.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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2 hours ago, Jim S said:
Thank you Jim. I also had a local mechanic tell me that there's a small motor in the gauge that usually goes bad causing my current symptom?
Newer cars use stepper motors to operate the gauges. I've replaced a lot of them.
This should be a Steward Warner gauges with Avanti face plates.
If memory serves me no motors, just field windings to operate the gauge.
Pretty bullet proof, usually sender or wiring.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Is the play in the linkage or where the arm mounts?
The socket of the arm mounts on a grooved pivot.
Sometimes the arm socket wears out and you have to replace the arm.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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On 4/20/2021 at 1:25 PM, Jim S said:
I found both units. There's one on the block. I disconnected it and it made no change. Then I put 12 volts to the wire and again no change. There is also a sender I found under the distributer. It has two contacts. I shorted them and still no effect on the gauge. This is a very peculiar problem I have never encountered before!
I posted wiring diagrams for the 1987 Avanti, page 32 is for gauges.
There is an oil pressure sender and an oil pressure sensor. The sender is for the gauge. The sensor is used to by the ECM to tell if the engine is running,
90 Ohms full, 0 Ohms empty. Unplugged will peg the needle full, grounding the wire will peg the needle empty.
Don't apply voltage. If no movement problem could be in wiring or gauge. Check for voltage at the sending unit.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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They use to have vendors that would go to new car dealers and install aftermarket decals, trim, etc. on new cars. This type of trim was poplar in the 1980's and was usually installed by these vendors. You may try calling new car dealers and see who they use. They may be able to match and install it for you.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Replacing it would probably cause more problems then it would cure. I would make sure the gas filler cap is vented if you keep it disabled.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Normal running temperature is going to be 200* to 205*.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Second line on passenger side should be the return line to the gas tank. Line on drivers side was probably for the Evap system. You should have a vacuum diagram sticker some where under the hood.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Has the belt driven fan been replaced with an electric fan or has an electric helper fan been added to the system?
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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I have purchased a Dorman PN 924-806 to install in my Avanti. It's used in a BMW 525i
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-806-Universal-Cup-Holder/dp/B002E3873I
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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AC Delco radiator cap for a 1982 305 engine is a RC27 16 lb cap.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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On 3/7/2021 at 6:37 PM, 1inxs said:
Jim,
Did you pick up your 87 Avanti II before or after you collected all of your brochures and flyers? How does your 87 look and run today?
All the brochures and flyers came with my Avanti when I purchased it from the previous owner.
The Eagle Ottawa Leather company is still in business.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Good find!
NAPA 2-29031 crosses to
AC Delco 212-72
Standard Ignition PVS48
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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JensenHealey;
Sorry , I get in mechanic mode and don't explain what I'm looking at well.
GM used fusible links to protect the main wires supplying multiple devices. Today everyone uses MAXI fuses. These type of fuse are slow to blow, unlike the fuses in the fuse block. Fusible links rarely blow, I've only replaced a handful in 45 years.
Yours is blown, you can tell it was hot because the red end is pinkish in color. This can happen one of two ways. Corrosion got to the wires, broke enough wire strands and the fuse overheated. OR too much current melted the outer wire casing and corrosion set in.
I install a fuse to test the system because these are a pain to replace.
Use a amp meter to test the system as you power on all the devices powered by the wire.
You can also wire it direct and follow the melted wiring to the problem, not a method I'm fond of 😫.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
PS - Did you get your fuel pump running?
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That’s where it blows, replace with new fuse.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Is the fuse bad?
It is a 16 gauge fusible link, you can get them at any auto parts store.
If you use a fuse I would start with a 20 amp MAXI fuse.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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Yes, it should be marked on the wire coating.
New links are available from most auto parts stores, but since you have to wire it in, I usually just wire in a fuse holder.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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The fusible link in basically a piece of wire that is a smaller gauge then the regular wire, so it melts first. You should see a burnt spot in the wire in the first six inches coming off of the starter solenoid. You can grab and pull the wire and it will separate at the blown area of wire.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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The firewall plug usually has a captured bolt in the center of the outside plug that clamps the plug halves together. The outside of the plug should be clipped to the body. The inside part of the plug should release when you loosen the bolt. My firewall plug is located between the wiper motor and the washer tank.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
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The wiring diagram that I posted shows Power Distribution on pages 2-4. There are 3 fusible links on the starter supplying power to the ignition switch and fuse block. Check for blown links or corroded wires at the plug going thru the firewall. If it is like my Avanti the problem is before the fuse block not from the fuse block.
Good luck,
Jim Wood
Chevy 305 timing degrees
in 1984-91 Avanti
Posted
This is a single wire NEAR the distributor, should be tan on one side of the connector and tan\black on other side.
You can also go to www.montecarloSS.com and search their site for info.
Their site is full of good info for your Avanti.
Good luck,
Jim Wood