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IndyJimW

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Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. I've gone through about 5 cables in the last 45,000 miles. The problem seems to be that the cable is rubbing where it goes through the body, I've looked at several 87 Avantis and all have this problem. This applies pressure on the cable, it binds and breaks the plastic cable housing at the shifter. The cable housing is weak at the shifter clip, I've broken one inserting the clip. I don't think that just opening up the hole in the body is the answer because the aftermarket plastic cable do not seem to line up correctly.

    I found out the shifter is not a Monte Carlo by buying a cable kit for Monte Carlo shifter and 200R4 transmission. The shifter looks like it is for a 3 speed automatic that has been modified to work with the 200R4 4 speed.

    I just broke my cable, so I ordered a special cable that I will install this week.

    I'll let you know how it works.

    Good luck all,

    Jim Wood

  2. For those who may be interested, Chevrolet makes a serpentine belt kit that fits ALL small block Chevrolet engines. The new Part # 19418818 and it sells at my Chevrolet dealer for $1129.69.

    https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/engine-components/small-block/accessory-drive-systems

    Kit includes brackets, belt, pulleys, bolts, water pump, alternator, power steering pump and a/c compressor.

    I have run this system on my Avanti for 15 years.

    Good luck all,

    Jim Wood

  3. For those who may be interested, Chevrolet makes a serpentine belt kit that fits ALL small block Chevrolet engines. The new Part # 19418818 and it sells at my Chevrolet dealer for $1129.69.

    https://www.chevrolet.com/performance/engine-components/small-block/accessory-drive-systems

    Kit includes brackets, belt, pulleys, bolts, water pump, alternator, power steering pump and a/c compressor.

    I have run this system on my Avanti for 15 years.

    Good luck all,

    Jim Wood

  4. Don’t know if this will work on the earlier Avanti but I changed the rag joint on my 1987 Avanti with the trunnion slip joint from a Jeep Cherokee. It was a drop in, cost me 5 dollars at the junk yard and made a BIG difference in the play in the steering that the rubber rag joint causes.

    Good luck all,

    Jim Wood

  5. Hopped in the 87 Avanti a couple days ago and the drivers rear wheel is locking up when the brakes are applied.

    So I went back into the shop, got on the Summit Racing web site and ordered a rear disc brake conversion kit.

    Arrived today. Should have them installed by the end of next week if all goes good.

    Good luck all,

    Jim Wood

  6. The drivers door on my 1987 Avanti stuck out just like that, paint was stripped off of the door by the wind. After years of fighting the adjustment I replaced the upper hinge, shuts great now. Door is signed and dated on the inside by one of the factory workers, so I know the door is original. On the 1987 they used an aluminum hinge that is twice as thick as the Studebaker steel hinge. I used the Studebaker steel hinge with my mounting bracket because the Studebaker bracket was bent at a different angle at the door post. The picture is my original hinge and Studebaker bracket, parts I didn't use. When I placed the Studebaker hinge over my hinge you could tell they were bent different.

    UpperHinge.JPG.7794b43096c9b088231a564f6d4fe06a.JPG

    Both my front fenders were cracked at the middle of the wheel well, seems to be a common problem.

    If you want you can have my old drivers door hinge, then both of your doors will stick out and match.😁

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

     

     

  7. Looks like the liner coating is coming apart, Ford had a similar problem.

    We would remove the tanks and clean or replace them.

    Does the convertible use the Avanti tank or the original Chevrolet tank?

    If its the Chevrolet tank you can get a new one for $150 from O'Reilly or Auto Zone.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  8. The door is adjustable as is the vent frame. I would recommend you get a shop manual from Studebaker International, it will explain the procedure.

    My 87 Avanti drivers door was out about half an inch at the top. Tried for years to adjust it, if the door was flush you couldn't open it. Turned out the upper hinge was bent wrong from the factory. Replaced the hinge and no more problems.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  9. If it uses the GM column you can disconnect the cable midway down the column.

    But the problem is more likely in the ignition switch. The switch is flat and at the base of the column. There is a rod that goes into the switch from the lock cylinder, if the switch is sticking it will not allow the lock cylinder to rotate fully.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  10. Are you having a problem getting the key out of the ignition or having a problem with the lock assembly going into position to let you remove the key? 
     

    The Neutral Safety should not stop the lock from releasing the key.
     

    I would loosen the ignition switch at the base of the column and see if the ignition lock will go freely into position.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  11. I would unplug the distributor connector and remove the wiring from the harness back about two feet, the OEM connector should be there. Or cut the tan wire a couple inches from the distributor, set the timing and reconnect the wire.

    From what I have been told you can also hook up a scanner and with the engine running it will make the ECM go into base mode. I have never done this and don't know if it works.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  12. 15 hours ago, Jim S said:

    What's going on with my engine is hard starts sometimes.  And when you shut it down, sometimes it will diesel and knock for a few seconds before it stops running.  I was told that the timing was off and setting it properly should correct it.

     

     

    13 hours ago, Jim S said:

    There was a new carburetor installed by the previous owner just before I got the car.  I'll look at that.  Thanks. 

    Set the timing.

    Is the carburetor a Quadrajet E4M or an aftermarket.

    There should be a solenoid that controls plate closing during shutdown. This helps prevent dieseling.

    Dieseling and knock can also be caused in the Chevy small block by heated deposits. Go to a GM dealers part counter and get a bottle of ACDelco 10-3015 Top Engine Cleaner and follow the directions. You SLOWLY pour it into the carburetor with the engine running, before this came out we would use water at the dealers I worked.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

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