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IndyJimW

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Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. The door is adjustable as is the vent frame. I would recommend you get a shop manual from Studebaker International, it will explain the procedure.

    My 87 Avanti drivers door was out about half an inch at the top. Tried for years to adjust it, if the door was flush you couldn't open it. Turned out the upper hinge was bent wrong from the factory. Replaced the hinge and no more problems.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  2. If it uses the GM column you can disconnect the cable midway down the column.

    But the problem is more likely in the ignition switch. The switch is flat and at the base of the column. There is a rod that goes into the switch from the lock cylinder, if the switch is sticking it will not allow the lock cylinder to rotate fully.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  3. Are you having a problem getting the key out of the ignition or having a problem with the lock assembly going into position to let you remove the key? 
     

    The Neutral Safety should not stop the lock from releasing the key.
     

    I would loosen the ignition switch at the base of the column and see if the ignition lock will go freely into position.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  4. I would unplug the distributor connector and remove the wiring from the harness back about two feet, the OEM connector should be there. Or cut the tan wire a couple inches from the distributor, set the timing and reconnect the wire.

    From what I have been told you can also hook up a scanner and with the engine running it will make the ECM go into base mode. I have never done this and don't know if it works.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  5. 15 hours ago, Jim S said:

    What's going on with my engine is hard starts sometimes.  And when you shut it down, sometimes it will diesel and knock for a few seconds before it stops running.  I was told that the timing was off and setting it properly should correct it.

     

     

    13 hours ago, Jim S said:

    There was a new carburetor installed by the previous owner just before I got the car.  I'll look at that.  Thanks. 

    Set the timing.

    Is the carburetor a Quadrajet E4M or an aftermarket.

    There should be a solenoid that controls plate closing during shutdown. This helps prevent dieseling.

    Dieseling and knock can also be caused in the Chevy small block by heated deposits. Go to a GM dealers part counter and get a bottle of ACDelco 10-3015 Top Engine Cleaner and follow the directions. You SLOWLY pour it into the carburetor with the engine running, before this came out we would use water at the dealers I worked.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  6. This is a single wire NEAR the distributor, should be tan on one side of the connector and tan\black on other side.

    You can also go to www.montecarloSS.com and search their site for info.

    Their site is full of good info for your Avanti.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  7. 23 hours ago, studegary said:

    Instead of replacing the fuse (again), measure the resistance across it.  If blown, it will show as an open.  I am thinking that you probably have a stop light switch problem.  

    Here in the shop we have received many warnings and a Federal RECALL of cheap China made fuses.

    In the last 10 years I have seen a hand full of glass fuses that are defective.

    The center element of the fuse is not blown but the end caps are not fully attached to the element.

    These will ohm OK  (0 ohms) and test OK for voltage (12.6 volts), but will not carry amps.

    The only way you can find them is to Load test the system with a LoadPro or use a small headlight with alligator clips.

    Imagine a 12 gauge wire that is cut except for 1 stain of wire. It will pass a ohm and voltage test.

    So yes, I would replace the fuse again, its cheap and may save a lot of time.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

     

     

     

     

  8. 2 hours ago, Jim S said:

    Thank you Jim.  I also had a local mechanic tell me that there's a small motor in the gauge that usually goes bad causing my current symptom?

    Newer cars use stepper motors to operate the gauges. I've replaced a lot of them.

    This should be a Steward Warner gauges with Avanti face plates.

    If memory serves me no motors, just field windings to operate the gauge.

    Pretty bullet proof, usually sender or wiring.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  9. On 4/20/2021 at 1:25 PM, Jim S said:

    I found both units.  There's one on the block.  I disconnected it and it made no change.  Then I put 12 volts to the wire and again no change.  There is also a sender I found under the distributer.  It has two contacts.  I shorted them and still no effect on the gauge.  This is a very peculiar problem I have never encountered before!

     

    I posted wiring diagrams for the 1987 Avanti, page 32 is for gauges. 

    There is an oil pressure sender and an oil pressure sensor. The sender is for the gauge. The sensor is used to by the ECM to tell if the engine is running,

    90 Ohms full, 0 Ohms empty. Unplugged will peg the needle full, grounding the wire will peg the needle empty.

    Don't apply voltage. If no movement problem could be in wiring or gauge. Check for voltage at the sending unit.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  10. They use to have vendors that would go to new car dealers and install aftermarket decals, trim, etc. on new cars. This type of trim was poplar in the 1980's and was usually installed by these vendors. You may try calling new car dealers and see who they use. They may be able to match and install it for you.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

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