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IndyJimW

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Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. I have a similar problem with my 1980 Avanti ii. On my car the problem is the voltage in the s terminal wire to the starter solenoid is only 7 1/2 volts. If I jump the wire to 12 volts the starter will always work. I am presently tracing wiring trying to find where I have voltage drop. There is an old chevy trick to fix this using a ford (yea, i know) solenoid to send 12 volts to the s terminal on the gm starter. The wiring diagram can be found online.

    Check the connector at the base of the steering column the terminals will lose contact, overheat and melt the plastic.

    Jim Wood

  2. I'm glad that this works for you, but I still think you have a problem that will bite you later.

    I have seen this setup from the factory on Ford E-350 vans that use a GM type solenoid and on Semi trucks. These systems were designed for it. you could also accomplish the same thing with a Bosch relay.

    This system wasn't designed for it and if I was to take an educated guess I would say you have a problem with the starter wire coming from the ignition switch. When hot you are not getting the necessary current to engage the starter solenoid. By adding the Ford relay the starter wire can engage the relay with the lower current and power the GM solenoid with battery current.

    Either way you still HAVE to power the GM solenoid for the starter to operate.

    The most likely problem is that the ignition switch connector at the base of the column has overheated, if you can unplug it you will see melted plastic and overheated terminals. I have seen them overheat to the point that the plastic connector melts together and can't be separated. If this is the case, eventually it will degrade and not power the Ford relay.

    By the way, in my shop load testing the battery is the first test of a no start problem.

    Jim Wood

  3. I have a '87 Coupe and 200* is normal, OEM thermostat is 195*. Nothing wrong with normal cooling system maintenance, but I would not try lowering the running temperature as it will screw with the computer system.

    As a side note, I install TPI from a '89 Firebird and an eletric fan. The computer will turn on the fan at 231* and off at 209*, that is normal.

    Jim Wood

  4. I would like to see the diagram for installing the Ford relay and what it accomplishes. You still need to engage the solenoid on the GM starter, so I don't understand the need for additional circuits. I've been a mechanic for 40 years and starter problems always come down to voltage and amps, either not enough or too much needed. The GM system has worked great for over 60 years, my guess is that you solved your problem by moving a wire or adding heavier cables.

    Jim Wood

  5. I work with VIN's every day, all you need is the last 8 digits to get all the info on the vehicle. If you can get me the last 6 to 8 digits I can get you the full VIN. The block on the passenger side front extends from under the head and the digits may be stamped there, mine were not. I got mine off of the transmission body on a side boss above the transmission pan.

    Jim Wood

  6. Sounds like a bad ignition switch or wiring. When it happens use a test light to see if you get power to the solenoid terminal when the key is turned to start. You could also cross the battery terminal to the solenoid to see if the starter will engage. You could also check the plug connector at the base of the column for heat damage, a common problem. Fusible links would not be a problem, all they are is a smaller diameter of wire that melts when to much amperage is supplied.

    Jim Wood

  7. If the needle stays at 3/4 Full with key on and off it could be the gauge, but I would test wiring from the tank also. You need to get to the rear of the gauge, there will be two wires for the gauge, a light socket and maybe the light socket ground connected to the gauge. The gauge will be held in place by a u shaped bracket that is bolted to the gauge and presses against the rear of the dash.

    Jim Wood

  8. I am replacing my original HVAC system with a Vintage Air Evaporator Kit. I have already replace my condenser and pump with R134a models.

    I removed my seats and center console to get access to the evaporator and heater core case. It was a huge cobbled up affair that can only be removed in one piece with the dash removed. I didn't take my dash apart and removed the case in several pieces.

    412060899.jpg

    The hole for the heater hoses was behind the distributor cap, I covered it with a piece of sheet metal and painted it black. The square hole left in the dash is from the A/C lines.

    http://www.vintageair.com/

    After studying the Vintage Air website I decided to purchase a kit instead of the pieces separately. The kit would give me a template for the firewall, brackets, hard lines from the case to the firewall, firewall grommets and extra hoses and vents. The kit is not much more then the GenIV case and controllor.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/vta-754181

    I purchased kit PN 754181 for an 81-87 Chevy pickup with A/C from Summit Racing.

    The kit DOES NOT come with the condenser and dryer as shown in the picture.

    412060905.jpg

    This picture shows the GENIV case with brackets installed and the firewall template. I have placed white stickers over the alignment holes to show where the bolts will go. I will cut down the plate to fit my 1987 Avanti firewall.

    412060898.jpg

    This picture shows the original dash controller and the new controller. The new controller will have to be modified to fit the opening. I have already drilled out the 4 rivets and changed their direction so the controller will fit flush. I will have to open up the controller hole in the dash sheet metal and then the new controller will sit between the dash veneer and the dash sheet metal.

    I will update as I move this project along.

    Happy motoring,

    Jim Wood

  9. The best parts purchase that I have made for my Avanti has been the Avanti Screw Set Part # 15-026 from Studebaker International. This is an assortment of screws for inside and outside.

    Catalog page 62 for $30.00.

    http://www.studebaker-intl.com/catalog_.html

    I've had my set for over 5 years and I seem to use it every time I work on my Avanti.

    Au-ve-co Products #8 Screw Size Flush Type Washers Part# 604 is a great addition to the set.

    http://www.perfectfit.com/15288/154154/Special-Purpose-Screws/Flush-Type-Countersunk-Washers-Nickel-Plated-on-Brass.html

    Happy motoring,

    Jim Wood

  10. This is what the OEM & 1987 Avanti exhaust looks like, tailpipe ends are different on the 1987 Avanti.

    370857115.jpg

    The exhaust pipes bolt to the front of the convertor. My convertor was plugged when I purchased the car so I replaced it.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flo-2010035/overview/

    I then installed a Cat-Back duel exhaust system. Those rear pipes connected at the convertor unlike the OEM system. So the convertor acts like a X-pipe. I had to modify the rear pipes to exit the Avanti.

    If you want to run true duel exhaust you will need an aftermarket transmission support because there is no opening for exhaust on the left side of the support.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770302/overview/

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  11. The chassis is from a 87 Monte Carlo, headers for that will work. Get an aftermarket transmission crossmember with dual cutouts to run dual exhaust. You'll need a O2 sensor for the carburetor controls.

    For more info go to Montecarloss.com website, they offer plenty of good ideas.

    Jim Wood

  12. I was over at Mike Baker's Avanti Restoration Shop a couple of years ago and he had a Avanti in for full restoration that was Metal Flake Green with a Purple vinyl top. It used large metal flakes like a 60's dune buggy.

    That look is still burned into my eyes.

  13. Not sure you have a problem.

    I'm a professional mechanic with 40 years experience and something doen't sound right in your explanation.

    There is no air flow problem that I can find with the Avanti design, so there is no reason to be pushing and venting all this air.

    Is the engine overheating? Coolant overflowing?

    What thermostat are you running?

    You say that the new engine runs hot like the old engine.

    Did you use the same coolant sending unit and temperature gauge in both engines?

    Could they be reading wrong?

    What are the actual engine temperatures? Use a handheld temperature reader to check.

    I'm running a GM TPI system in my Avanti and the computer operates the fan just as GM designed it to, on at 222* and shuts off at 200*.

    Most of the time my engine operates at 205* and rarily does my fan come on.

  14. Was told by mechanic, the radiator on my 88 is not a GM radiator. Any truth or is it BS?

    Not sure what my 1987 is, but is different then earlier Avanti because it sits in the front different. I just took mine down to my Radiator Shop and had it recored.

    Happy Motoring,

    Jim Wood

  15. What year Avanti is yours? The following info is for my 1987.

    Is the motor not working at all or spins but the window doesn't move.

    The motor will have a part# on it, the drivers motor is the passengers side motor out of a mid 80's Chrysler Lebaron.

    If it spins and no movement you can rebuild the motor regulator with Cardone Window Lift Kit PN 42-94.

    Happy Motoring,

    Jim Wood

  16. The first guy I took it to put on a new compressor (it did need one) but it never did cool very well in the passenger compartment. The freon was already converted to 134 and is full.

    R134a won't cool as well as R12. You need a charge of about 80% of R134a compaired to R12. If your Avanti is like mine the orginal charge is unknown, so you will have to watch the gauge pressures or measure the temperature difference between the inlet and outlet tubes. The difference should be about 2 degrees or as close as possible.

    The heat doesn't heat up, even when I set the temperature to 90° but the AC compressor runs!

    Do you have flow in and out of the heater core? I usually just grab the heater hoses and see if one is cooler then the other. The A/C compressor will run when in defrost mode.

    When I set it to 60° the fan runs full speed, but doesn't cool the compartment on warm days.

    Sounds like the charge is not right. Place a thermostat in the center vent, turn the A/C on high and open the doors. Place another thermostat about 1 foot in front of the car. The difference of a good working A/C should be at least 30 degrees.

    If it was in my shop I would start with the basics.

    1 - Check operation of the different modes. A/C - Heat - Defrost - and take some temperature readings at the vents and outside.

    2 - Correct the R134a charge.

    3 - Test coolant flow to heater core You may have a vacuum operated shut off valve in the heater hose that is stuck shut or a clogged heater core.

    Once I was sure the basic system COULD operate I would then look at the controls.

    If your HVAC system is like my 1987 Avanti is was border line when new. Add 25 years and conversion to R134a and cool may be the best it will perform.

    I have removed the orginal HVAC system, a cobbled up afair at best, and am installing a Vintage Air Gen IV system in my 87.

    Happy motoring,

    Jim Wood

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