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Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. First let me say that I am a professional mechanic and not a body man.

    Purchased my 87 Avanti about 20 years ago, it had less than 70,000 miles on it. The black paint was faded on the fenders and hood and on the upper part of the drivers door where the door stuck out into the wind.. The upper part of the drivers door was adjusted away from the body about 1/2 inch.

    The hinges were loose so I purchased rebuild kits and rebuilt them. Still could not get drivers door to align, I could get it adjusted close but then the door would rub the sill plate and be hard to latch.

    Last year I was trying to adjust it again when it dawned on me (Read the first line again), when I purchased the car the upper part drivers door paint was faded from being in the wind for 70,000 miles. Could the hinge be bent wrong from the factory? The hinge is 1/2 to 3/4 inch aluminum, no way you could bent it without destroying the door (I have the original door with factory #'s and signed by builder inside).

    I called Mike Baker @ Avanti Restorations and he had a hinge from a burnt up 1964.

    The 1984 hinge is different then the 1987 hinge. The part that bolts into the pocket wouldn't bolt at the top, bend was at a different angle. The hinge is steel, not aluminum. I took the pocket part of the 1987 Hinge and mated it with the steel door part from the 1964, I installed it and it worked like a charm.

    Just bad quality control from the factory. Don't know why the original owner didn't complain. I have the Invoice for this car - $34,000 in 1987.





  2. 16 hours ago, Avanti83 said:

    Agree with Jim again. I used a Flex-a-lite Syclone with a custom shroud but Jim's setup would be much easier to fab and install. I also used a Derale 16749 fan controller and added a manual override switch just-in-case.

    I've purchased a Delta Current Control's constant temperature controller to play with, still need to install it. My TPI ECM controls the fan currently.


    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  3. 17 hours ago, arkus said:

    using a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone will work much better than any commercially available solution that i ever used, based on over 65 years of being a professional mechanic. 

    Seconded by a 45 year professional mechanic.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  4. On 1/10/2021 at 12:37 PM, Avanti83 said:

    Yup! I suspect you have now discovered why a couple of the best tools for old cars is a Volt-Ohm-Meter and a 12 volt probe. Even with a complete wiring diagram (if available) you will still need to generally start at either the fuse box or affected end and start back tracking. Avanti's are well known for corrosion and bad grounds causing issues.

    I would suspect your manual (if available) should list the fuses that feed certain parts. If not, the 12 v probe will make sure there is power to all the fuses whether on full time, or in run or start mode.

    I highly recommend a Power Probe for testing car electrical.


    Can save a lot of time and headaches. You can test for power and grounds and supply both power and ground. Great for testing circuits or an electrical device, especially on a fiberglass vehicle.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood


  5. 1981 Chevy Truck C 10 1/2 Ton Pickup 2WD
    V8-305 5.0L VIN F 4-bbl
    A.I.R. Check valve OEM# 22048212 / AC Delco 214-419 $40.00
    Catalytic Converter OEM # 8998685 / MagnaFlow 94006 $80.00
    I've removed my AIR Injection system and it doesn't set any codes, I doubt that a leaking air valve would cause a code. Early emissions systems don't have a long code list.
    If you do remove the AIR check valve, ONLY TURN THE VALVE!!! The nut on the tubing that goes into the bottom of the valve is welded to the tubing. Turning it will bend and break the tubing.
    Only one O2 sensor to control carburetor, nothing monitoring exhaust tailpipe gases.
    Do they test tailpipe emissions in Australia ?
    I would fix whatever is setting the Engine light code(s), weld in an aftermarket converter and see if it passes.
    Most of the codes that I've seen in these older systems are vacuum line related. Old, cracked and missing.
    Good luck,
    Jim Wood
  6. 19 hours ago, JensenHealey said:

    Why not post any available Avanti diagrams here on this forum as a member resource?

    It's not like anyone from Avanti is out there looking to take people to court for posting such material.

    I find it interesting that you assume it hasn't been done in the past.

    I have also offered you the diagrams that you want for free, even through it costs me.

    Don't know what else can be done.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood


  7. Did the engine shut off OR did the ignition power shut off?

    If it was the engine then the dash warning lights would have come on. The same as when you turn the ignition switch on to start the engine.

    If the dash warning lights go dead when the engine dies it is probably a problem with the power to the ignition switch.

    I had the same problem with my Avanti, old corroded wiring to the ignition switch. A connector plug was heating up and would cause resistance.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  8. AC Delco # 214-1045 Secondary Air Injection Check Valve. One way check valve that allows air from the air pump to the exhaust manifolds, but not the other way. Used to supply additional air into the converter when cold to bring the converter up to temperature faster. They are usually rusted to the air pipe and are a pain to get off without damaging the pipe. If your taking off the air pump, just remove the air pipes to the exhaust manifolds and use steel or brass plugs to seal the holes in the manifolds.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  9. 2 hours ago, JensenHealey said:

    My point is I can go to a web site managed by the Jaguar enthusiast community and download for FREE complete pdf copies of the wiring diagrams for pretty much any classic Jaguar. I can do the same for other european marks that I typically work on. Why is this not possible for GM made vehicles?

    Factory diagrams are copyrighted. European makes must not care if you use their materials.

    2 hours ago, JensenHealey said:

    Right now I am specifically looking for the connector pinout for the electrical connection going to the fuel tank and the location & pinout for the fuel pump relay but I would also like to figure out why my headlights and taillights do not function. Later I would like to dig into the harness for the TBI system

    Pinout for which year Avanti? Both fuel pump and TBI could be GM vehicle specific.

    Bosch style relay, will have diagram on relay. God only knows where Avanti placed it.

    Lights are part of the Avanti harness on my 1987 Avanti. I have the 1987 diagrams, don’t know if they are the same.

    Let me know what you need and I will try to get it.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood





    3 hours ago, Avanti83 said:

    I agree with Jim above. That's why I always bought the factory manuals when I purchased a "New" daily driver. They finally priced me out of the market but the local library usually had up to date Mitchell's Manuals that had what I needed. Pretty hard to get to them now however, and my guess is they will not be digitizing them and will probably, if they have not done it by now, be purging them.

    That leaves the link that Jim posted.

    I have my garage signed up to Alldata, I can get pretty much any factory wiring diagram, US or foreign. If Alldata doesn't have them on-line I can get them from their library. I needed a wiring diagram for a 1942 Plymonth about a year ago, they faxed it right over.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  11. The Chevrolet based Avanti used part of the Chevrolet harness and part of the Avanti harness wired together. I have access to both Chevrolet wiring diagrams and the 1987 Avanti wiring diagram.

    What are you needing?

    You can also order the Chevrolet Service Manual for your K30, it will have the wiring diagram in it.


    Just remember that US made cars use Angry Pixies and Magic Smoke in their wiring diagrams.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  12. 57 minutes ago, studegary said:

    Depending on the bottles and the shape of the tube/nozzle, I can understand siphoning once a flow is started.  Expansion/evaporation would be necessary to start the flow (unless the bottles have an inverted U for an outlet/nozzle and that is already full).  I agree - just keep them closed.  

    Spray bottles (Like Windex spray bottles) use low pressure to draw the fluid up the tube from the bottom of the bottle. If the pump is bad or the inner tube is loose no fluid will get to the one-way valve to be sprayed out. Just like sucking on a hose to start siphoning gas from a fuel tank. If you ever got a mouth full of gas while stealing borrowing some gas late at night, that was low pressure, not expansion or evaporation that started the flow.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  13. 2 hours ago, Skip Lackie said:

    I think the problem is semantics -- it's not really siphoning out.  What is happening is that the acetone is evaporating inside the bottle, and the excess pressure created thereby is forcing the acetone/ATF mixture out of the nozzle. Most of us have experienced the same physical process after parking a Studebaker with a full gas tank in the sun on a summer day.

    I have a 1 gal. can of acetone and 4 spray bottles of mixed sitting in a 60 degree shop under LED shop lights, I don't recall any pressure build up in any container.  I have siphoned fuel from vehicles and used shop air to pressure prime big diesels so I have a small amount of knowledge on the difference. Oh, I didn't mention that the spray bottles will continue to leak until the sides collapse inward from vacuum.

    My point being, like I tell my mechanics is to keep the damn nozzle closed and stop making a mess.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  14. Fuel pressure for the 1989 Chevrolet Caprice is 9-13 psi, The fuel pump relay is mounted on the Electronic Spark Control Module with the In-Line fuse mounted nearby.

    I pulled my fuel tank and installed a high pressure fuel pump for my TPI system, it was a major pain. Since this is a low pressure fuel system you may want to install a pump on the frame and wire it in to the OEM controls. This would save a LOT of work.


    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  15. If this is a TBI engine I would test the fuel pressure at the test port. If low, remove fuel cap and listen while someone turns the ignition key on. You should hear the pump running for 3 seconds, then it will shut off. If you don' hear the pump try tapping on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet then repeat listening for the pump noise. If this loosens the pump up it will need to be replaced. If you still don't get any fuel pressure then test the wiring, studegary mentions the safety switch, there is also a fuel pump fuse and a fuel pump relay. The fuel pump is controlled by the ECM, as are the injectors. Fuel pressure problems will not set an engine code. The fuel pump is also wired into the oil pressue sensor, no oil pressure, no fuel.


    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

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