Jump to content

IndyJimW

AOAI Forum Members
  • Posts

    584
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by IndyJimW

  1. The dimple on the swivel plate fits in holes in the frame, in front of the rear wheels and behind the front wheels. Very stable and can lift the wheel over 6 inches in the air. One of the best OEM jacks I have seen. Should be the 1987 Monte Carlo jack.
  2. Rollers for the window guides are available from Studebaker International.

    The motors are available from any auto parts store. Motors are from a 90's Chrysler LeBaron. Just switch the drivers and passenger door side.

    The gear drive inside the motor can be rebuilt, kits available from any auto parts store.

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

  3. It uses early eighties Chrysler motors and drive. The drivers is the passengers side and the passengers side is the drivers. You can get motors and drive kits from any auto parts store.

     

    Search the history postings for part #s.

     

    Jim Wood

  4. Loosen the bolt about a turn and you can move it up, down or in and out. After you have it in position tighten it. I don't think the bolt plate will fall in the door frame, but there is no reason to loosen the bolt that much.

     

    Good luck,

    Jim

  5. The brakes on my 1987 Avanti are the same as the 1987 Monte Carlo. I installed aftermarket SBC dual piston calipers, pads and Raybestos slotted rotors. That combo took off another 20 feet at 40 mph.  A rear disc kit is available for the '87 also.

     

    Jim Wood

  6. With the GM chassis you will get better handling and ride, 1950's technology compared to 1980's technology. Most mechanics can work on the GM chassis, not always the case on the Lark chassis. Parts for the GM chassis are still common as are performance parts.

     

    Not sure on all late model Avantis but my body is cut away below the bumper, making installation of chrome bumpers an expensive modification.

    393705970.jpg

     

    Good luck,

    Jim Wood

     

  7. Installed a set of LED headlights today. Rig Tough Part # RTLEDHL5X7HILO, I believe these are the same as TruckLite LED's.

    58c2fe08ab5af_IMG_02191.thumb.JPG.53c060b90afaf657445151e29944c7ba.JPG

    58c3020a13caf_IMG_02202.thumb.JPG.f2cf223d66ac5da7b087eb3caf390d9e.JPG

    The LED headlight has a metal body with a plug that sticks out the back to connect to the car headlight plug.

    58c303b31a1b4_IMG_02241.thumb.JPG.e2d7c2c21482f927d49d9eaf78f93eda.JPG

    58c2ff334f4ed_IMG_02031.thumb.JPG.7c3376c224df55b0d4ac5629c7d1af78.JPG

    I had to remove the headlight shell because there wasn't enough room behind the headlight to fit both plugs, I was able to move them to the side and install the headlight assembly.

    58c2ffec0ec86_IMG_02181.thumb.JPG.663b445976e68ec2306bb6bc5607f99c.JPG

    The headlights appear to be very bright. The passenger side is the new LED and the drivers side is a Wagner Halogen.

    58c30065e2ae8_IMG_02151.thumb.JPG.991fa8275ff7263bcc34ef453c423daa.JPG

    Throws a much whiter light and hi beam is much brighter, at least on the garage door.

  8. From one of my old posts-

    Doing some repairs on my '87 Avanti and I'm replacing the door lock actuator's, here is what I found.

    Part is from a '87 Monte Carlo.

    Chevrolet & AC Delco # 22062740. No bracket. $54.00 - $95.00

    Standard Motor Products # DLA1. With bracket and rubber body boot. $76.00 - $157.00

    Dorman # 746-014. No bracket comes with rubber body boot. $39.00 - $68.00.

    Standard and Dorman come with a nice rubber boot around the body of the actuator, this is not part of the orginal but would be good for keeping out the weather. The bracket is held on with 4 screws so changing it over is easy. I purchased the Dorman actuator for about $39.00.

    End of old post.

    Does the switch work?

    Do the door actuators click?

    Test the switch for power, should have BAT+ power at all times. If not then you have a blown fuse or bad wire.

    If the actuators click they may just be weak and need replaced. I believe I found OEM part numbers on mine, been a long time ago.

    Once the power locks work and you can identify the wiring, you can get a remote kit installed or you can install it. You could also use the remote to open your power trunk.

    I installed this kit on my wife's car. The remotes are metal.

    https://www.amazon.com/Flexzion-Universal-Keyless-Electric-Controllers/dp/B013HNIHE2/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1472514063&sr=8-48&keywords=automotive+power+door+lock+remote

    Jim Wood

  9. Depends on what you want to do with it and how often. I use all of the following:

    http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/store/Fluke-80BK-A-Type-K-Multimeter-Thermocouple-Temperature-Probe-Cable_361623500610.html

    K-type thermocouple, used to measure surface temperatures using a multimeter. Simple and precise.

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Laser-LCD-IR-Infrared-Digital-Thermometer-Heat-Meter-Temperature-Measure-Gun-/121948223015?hash=item1c64ae3627

    Inexpensive to expensive IR Gun. Depends on how much you will use it, Hard to beat a Fluke.

    http://store3.sure-electronics.com/dc-te11205

    Visual IR Gun, if you have a need. I love my Fluke.

    Jim Wood

×
×
  • Create New...