Gunslinger

I'm just wondering if there's a small enough quartz clock mechanism available form a hobby supplier that would fit inside the clock body and use the factory clock face...and the AA-battery could be mounted outside of the clock body under the dash. The factory illumination could be retained...just the guts of the clock replaced.

Engine running the system should be charging at 13.8 volts.

The hydraulic brake switches suffer from a dual problem beyond aversion to silicone fluid…current ones are made offshore now and simply don’t last…and original, well made switches are old enough now that they’re suspect in how well they work for any length of time.

You have "DOT 5" on your master cylinder cap so I assume that's what's in it. Silicone brake fluid is notoriously difficult to bleed all the air out of...the little air bubbles like to hide wherever they can and defy being bled out. If the car had standard DOT 3/4 fluid in it and wasn't completely flushed out and all the hoses replaced you will have spongy brakes or even fail in rare cases. The best performance cars don't use DOT 5 as strong cornering can cause bubbles in the system. DOT 5 also can kill the hydraulic brake switches...why I don't remember but it was explained to me once. The use of DOT 5 might be the cause of your problems.

It was sometime during the '71 model year Avanti Motors switched from the Borg Warner to a GM Hydramatic...not sure whether it was the TH-350 or TH-400.

If you can find Ford Type F…use that. GM Dexron will work but the Type F will give firmer shifts with less slippage. Whatever type you choose flush the transmission first…including the torque converter.

There is a vendor…don’t remember who…that fabricates and sells an Sanden adapter for the Avanti II. You might check with Myer’s Studebaker…Mike Myer may have what you need or know where to get it.

The Borg Warner used in the Avanti II had a different torque converter but otherwise fit the same.

To be straight...few Avanti II automobiles carry great value. It shouldn't be that way but it's the truth. Having said that...an early Avanti II such as a '66 is a great car for restoration...few emissions devices to deal with...lots of performance from the Corvette 327 engine...pretty simple compared to later cars. Outside of the engine and a few other pieces it's all Studebaker and most parts are pretty easily sourced...outside of some Avanti specific trim. Depending on the condition of the frame and hog troughs it would be a fine candidate to rebuild. I've advocated that any Avanti that can be rebuilt should be rebuilt...but I'm realistic enough to know that's that not always economically possible and we do need parts cars to keep other Avantis on the road.

Anything Avanti specific and not general Studebaker parts…such as trim pieces. Some have been and are being reproduced. Some are considered to be unobtantium.

The master cylinder might be the source of the problem. If it’s a non-original master cylinder…it could be from a car that has an identical looking master cylinder but a different bore which can create such an issue.

The ‘70 Avanti I had was equipped with what must have been an aftermarket 4-way flasher unit. Believe me…it was an abomination of wires and connections under the dash. If you’re compelled to have one…I would think Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motors is the guy to talk to.

Here’s a way to find an electrical short! 🤣

I used to own a ‘69 Corvette 427 435hp tri-carb…the intake manifold…instead of being raised was sunken for hood clearance…plus the hood itself was slightly raised compared to the small block hood.

While I could be wrong on both counts...during the mid-'70s a lot was going on with Avanti Motors...the change in door locks could have been related to complying with federal safety standards or running out of original Studebaker parts and the need to substitute something different at the least cost. The death of Nate Altman in 1976 probably had an effect in decision making as well.

Didn’t Studebaker state there was no warranty on an R3 engine…and it had 9.75:1 CR? And the R3 was Granatelli developed. They must have expected a combination of a supercharger and R1 heads to grenade on a regular basis and send parts into lower earth orbit. That would have made for some really bad publicity and lawsuits.

Electronics suppliers and Amazon have mercury switches. They won’t look like the originals but will work.

Check all the connections for tightness and corrosion…both hot lead and ground. It may require disconnecting everything…cleaning it all and reconnecting everything tight. You might also do a starter draw test and see how many amps the starter is drawing. The noise may be the starter bolts have loosened and a shim is loose or gone…BTDT. The starter itself may be dry and needing rebuilding or replacing.

I believe that individual assembly techs did some things their own individual way rather than some official standardization. I’ve seen power trunk releases under the dash on the side of the steering wheel and some on the right side. The same might be at play in other assembly areas.

The car may received body damage at one time…and repairs might have seen the plate removed…not replaced and the rivet holes fiberglassed over.

Check the body behind the drivers door…below the door lock. There should be a label.

There is likely a RQ number used internally by Avanti Motors. Probably the best way to get is to order a build sheet from Nostalgic Motors…that would have any internal accounting number on it.

The racing water pump could be part of the problem. If it's a reverse flow water pump that might be a problem but a racing water pump may circulate the coolant faster than it can be cooled.

To the best of my knowledge...none exists. The best you can do is obtain copies of the 1963-'64 Studebaker Avanti manual and parts book and work from them...and ask questions here.

Yes…an air deflector directs more air to the radiator that would otherwise create turbulent airflow under the car. It serves no purpose idling but really helps at speed.