mfg

Years ago, when original style PO’s were sold by Newman Altman, they came with several ‘carbon paper’ type duplicates … I can understand how, back in the day, an occasional copy might be tossed under the carpet at the factory.. however, I don’t believe it was a normal practice. (at least not compared to build sheets that can normally be found entwined into the rear seat cushion springs in Mopars)

“ Easily correctable?”… I don’t think so!… The Avanti nose panel script is very ‘thin’ and has no wiggle room if the holes are not drilled in correct location…An owner has to ignore the mistake (as you would apparently do) or rework the nose panel for a redo….. I believe a mistake like that would not be tolerated by Avanti owners who care about the appearance of their cars… We’re not speaking of “ dust in the glovebox” here! However, to each his own I guess!! Be well….Ed

No.. I completely disagree… if someone paid big dollars for a restoration, or even for a minor collision job on the nose panel of our favorite car, that “minor flaw” would drive a proud owner NUTS!

There were …..?…. ‘87 Avanti convertibles built in South Bend 1) 17…..2) 26…..3) 39….or….4) 54

The only major i.d.’s on a post WW2 Stude, beside the serial & body number plates, would be a paper tag glued to bottom of glove box with the exterior paint color code.

You might not say that if you just ponied up $10,000+ for professional body & paint work on a show car Avanti!!

It’s probably a copy of the production order.. it’s possible that it was left in the car at the factory.. however, that would be very unusual!

Bodywork was probably performed on the front panel… and the body man ‘goofed’ when drilling the nameplate holes

PS…. REALLY important to check condition of vacuum hose between manifold & booster.. If it appears to be deteriorating, replace it… Those hoses seem to fail more often than the boosters themselves!

Neither system will stop well with the brake booster out of action…. However, how often does that happen? I would not be concerned about it unless you suspect there actually is something wrong with the booster… if so, replace it now.

Well, I’m not implying that someone should ‘test’ their Studebaker Avanti brake system by disconnecting their brake booster… I’m simply stating that if the unthinkable happens and an Avanti’s brake booster fails, the car is still indeed stoppable… not well, and with much increased pedal effort… but still stoppable!… Ed

Agree on use of a quality paint stripper. Besides possibly rounding off edges that should be ‘sharp’, there are several ‘tight’ areas on a Paxton Supercharger that would be tough to access by hand or machine sanding…… For example… try and remove all the old paint from the back plate (scroll cover) of a Paxton by using sandpaper… GOOD LUCK!!

Wow! …I’m sure glad that I didn’t know my ‘83 Avanti was “IMPOSSIBLE TO STOP” after its booster failed several years ago….because I stood on the brake pedal and stopped it!! (I was driving in Fall River, Mass…. a city of hills, and yes, I was on my way down one!) A few years later I ditched the factory Dunlop front disc system and installed the ‘84-‘85 ‘Blake’ system on my car.

Well said!

Yep!… that’s exactly what my R2 looks like! ( well, my engine fan is chrome plated)

I tend to repeat myself… sorry… but what the heck were Studebaker engineers thinking when they decided to use a 3EE battery in an ‘advanced’ car…. as their new Avanti, at the time, truly was?? ( Well, at least they didn’t return to a 6 volt electrical system!)

Yes.. some mechanics consider the less slippery Type ‘F’ fluid to be a “dry” fluid, so to speak, compared to other ‘more slippery’ types.

No build sheet in car… however, production order for most every Studebaker passenger car built after WW 2 is available from Stude National Museum.

Any car with power disc brakes is more difficult to stop, and takes a lot more pedal pressure, if booster fails…. However, if the rest of the brake system is maintained and is up to snuff, the vehicle indeed can be stopped.

It’s probably a lot of work… and I’ve never attempted it.. but these Paxton Superchargers look AWESOME when they are left bare aluminum, and then buffed & polished!!

Every ‘66 -‘85 Avanti that I’ve seen had Chevy ‘Rams horn’ exhaust manifolds from the factory… your’s doesn’t? I like the Edelbrock carb and stock HEI ignition idea! I installed an Edelbrock Performer intake on my small block ‘400’. Best of luck with your ‘new’ Avanti!!

I purchased a Paxton several years ago painted white from factory… It actually just might look nice in a ‘Avanti White’ Stude Avanti!!

Probably very close….and available to you locally…If you do decide to order from SI, make sure they don’t send the ‘R3’ supercharger paint… which is more of a red color.

You may also consider calling Dave Thibeault on those shocks… He recently sold me a set of gas shock absorbers for my Golden Hawk that fit and perform perfectly!

Your supercharger has probably been painted more than once over the years… Although black is ‘factory’, I agree they ‘POP’ much better painted the typical Chevy orange (mine is orange)…. I think I’d seal all openings into the blower with duct tape, and then simply coat it with paint remover and let the chemical do the stripping… much easier than trying to sand all the paint off……. When the supercharger is back to bare aluminum, I’d wash it thoroughly with water, let it dry, then scuff it with 320 sandpaper.. Then, as you say, use the self etching primer, then finish off with the Chevy orange aerosol paint. (I use Ford type ‘F’ fluid … it is less slippery than some other types, which is better for the ball drive.) The supercharger belts are self adjusting due to the tensioner spring.