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That's a thought. One might be doing a valve job anyway and at that time could replace the shim head gaskets with composite ones. With 570 (R1) heads that would achieve a compromise compression ratio somewhere between 10.25:1. and 9:1. I think that I have heard that the traditional (old) composite gaskets lower the CR about a half point. So that would give us a CR of 9.75 (just what an R3 has!). Note that an R3 REQUIRES higher-than-93-octane gas (unless you never open it up). The thickness of the current Best Gasket head gaskets looks to be between shim and composite gaskets. Perhaps someone out there can give us a more precise thickness. This all has me intrigued. I have an R1 '64 Hawk and an R2 Hawk parts car. So, the ingredients are all there. --Dwight

Could one not install composite head gaskets?

Larry: Please check your PM (messages).

hello Rob and All, I think I bought that car from the inheritance estate of the gentleman who owned the car from original and originally purchased the car as an R1 from a dealership in Santa Monica, Ca. while he was stationed in California while in the Air Force.. I have the original documentation of the purchase of the R3 crate engine less the Alternator and starter. Even the shipping order. And indeed, the crate engine was ordered without the Supercharger from the Granatelli Bros. (It was ordered and delivered in 1967 and all information and correspondence seems to support the R3 was never installed until about 1990). A less aggressive Cam was supplied or reground by Isky from what I can tell from the old correspondence. Long story, I heard about the car while I was working Fly in, Fly Out doing project management on a remote mine site in Australia. I ended up flying out and buying it in White Feather, Idaho. and had to get it transported to Georgia. The car moving company broke the key off in the ignition while backing it out of the car carrier and while trying to get the broken key out shorted out half the electrics for the gauges under the dash. The original DIY A/C mounting bracket on the R3 engine was a little bit lacking in robustness and I took it off because it was basically broken and non-functional. I was a novice in regards to the unique differences between the R1, R2, R3 and R4 set ups. I have also been continuously reminded by the rareness of parts. Obviously there was never a stock R3 with supercharger and A/C. Although, I keep hearing about someone's cousin twice removed that has successfully done it but I have been unsuccessful in locating said cousin. But I can never locate that mythical person or company who has built or will build a mounting bracket for a supercharger and pully set up. to mount an A/C and Supercharger to an R3 that never had a Supercharger that replaced an R1. I came across this thread while trying to research a source of parts or providers of advice. I have also been kind of surprised by the rather sarcastic rudeness of some of the "experts". When I call inquiring about the availability of R3 specific parts from some of the suppliers, I am inevitably laughed at and told that I do not have an R3 engine or do not know the difference. (I won't mention names but I'm surprised that their attitudes towards customers allow them to stay in business). 18 months ago, that was probably true when I first got the car, however the learning curve has been steep. When I provide block and casting numbers as well as the original order sheet- silence ensues, but never an apology for initially (in one very memorable discussion), acting like a jerk. Nor do I seem to get anything useful in regards to information. I am guilty of looking at the R3 as a real mythical item of history in a way and would love to pit it together in its glory with a supercharger set up but fabricating the required parts from scratch is beyond my ability. I am at a point where I have to make a decision to just on sell the car or selling off the engine. and maybe go with an aftermarket LS engine which seems to be a relatively popular swap. Frustratingly, I get plenty of interest in buying the R3 engine once it is established it is a real R3 and less than 10,000 miles on it. I came across this thread by accident and notice that it is relatively recent -2022. Larry S.

I used to own a ‘69 Corvette 427 435hp tri-carb…the intake manifold…instead of being raised was sunken for hood clearance…plus the hood itself was slightly raised compared to the small block hood.

Hi all. Looking for some help in getting a driveshaft. Will a Lark V8 automatic drive shaft work in a 63 Avanti? Any other ideas on what would work? Thanks in advance!

The only metal I’m aware of in those doors are the window regulators!!

The results of a hard side hit directly into a 1985 (and earlier) Avanti’s driver’s or passenger’s door would not be pretty!

No door side crash beams in Avanti doors that I’m aware of… at least thru 1985.

I haven’t… but my guess is there would probably be a hood clearance issue.

I did finish my suspension but have not finished the rebuild of the car so haven't had a chance to test it out. One day I hope to get this project done...

Has anybody put a Tri-power intake on the 400 CID SBC engine in the Avanti?

Sorry , i've forgot this one...😉

Tanda62, did you get your suspension rebuild done and were you happy with it? Zedman found a YouTube on the door latches, it would be nice if we had some knowledgable Avanti guys putting more on. Too bad Grant didn’t make a video when he did his new bushings. I’m sure folks would like having some how to videos to help them with their updates. Mike

Hi, First: I got my Avanti registered and on the road and it is great fun to drive it! (Last week two rides with a total of ~650 km) But there are still some things I need to improve. One is that the accelerator (gas) pedal is getting quite hot when driving for a longer time on the highway. I sometimes need to take the foot from the pedal for a few seconds to relax a bit from the heat. And my shoes have quite a good sole. Has anyone eperienced something similar and have you any recommendations for me how I can improve that?

Hi AG-R3- my apologies for hijacking the thread somewhat, but your post infers that Avanti Motor Corp placed 'Anti Intrusion 'Bars/ Barrier' within the doors of our cars. This is a query I had made a couple of years ago and nobody on this Forum could verify it. So, do our Avanti II doors have Intrusion Bars in 'em... ? As of what year? Can these be seen without removal of the door trims?.. The reason I'm asking this is that here in Australia, I know that when I have my car Inspected prior to roadworthy certification, the presence of Intrusion bars is mandated. I'd assumed I would have to install something there- hopefully I won't after all.

Wasn't it about that same time, they installed a safety (crash) bar at the mid door level almost in line with the new lock ?

A minor issue but still could not believe somebody did this.... I bought a 63 R2 about 2001, a bit warn but all original. A previous owner had painted the inside of the engine compartment with a paint brush using a red paint that did not even match the maroon color on the body. Pretty ugly. Have done a full restoration installed an R3 clone and everything looks better now.

About 30 years ago I purchased a '63 Avanti from its original owner in order to get its R3 engine. The car looked, and was, tired. No problem there, but it also had three bone-headed screw-ups done by the seller's garage. (The seller had praised that garage). 1) The car had been used as a daily driver summer & winter in Cincinnati (an R3 Avanti!), so by the 1980s it needed a new frame. One was purchased from Avanti Motors and installed. But the garage drilled the holes in the frame for the rear cross-member about 1/2" too far back. That set the engine/trans too far back & the accelerator bellcrank (?) rubbed on the firewall, rubbing a notch in the fiberglass. I re-drilled the holes correctly. 2) The garage had screwed up the wiring for the parking lights so that they worked oddly. I corrected the wiring. 3) The garage had cut off the flared end of the copper oil pressure line and used a compression fitting to connect it to a rubber hose made for another vehicle. My brother made an adapter for my flaring tool so that I could flare that tiny tube. On the second try I got the flare right and installed the correct flexible hose from head to copper line. There may have been more. --Dwight

Thanks for the heads up on rebuilts

Chevy rebuilt starters are plentiful and relatively inexpensive… Changing it will probably solve your problem… All terminals nice & clean!

Thanks I think I am going to replace the starter and solenoid but will check everything out first -appreciate the advice