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thank you!!

Rivnuts are another option

While fresh on my mind, I decided to write up some instructions on how to do this. You may want to have a shop do the charging part if not experienced with it. Total cost of the system was under $600. If you prefer original components, all the parts I removed are now for sale. How to install modern air conditioning in a Studebaker Avanti My ’63 R1 came with “factory air” (I put it in quotes because it is not on the production order and I think it was dealer installed- but exactly like factory air). I decided to pull the old parts, sell them to someone who wants authenticity and put in a modern, more reliable system. I noticed after pulling the evaporator that it appeared to be nothing more than an under dash unit from the era adapted to use inside the console. So I decided to adapt a modern system, similar to those found at Vintage Air. You can buy complete kits for a similar price on Amazon on Ebay, but they come with hoses. I elected to have the hoses made up. I found on evaporator on Amazon with very similar dimensions to the old unit and ordered it (about $80). Then I found a larger condenser unit (14 x 20) which is the same size as the Vintage Air unit that came in my Hawk (around $100) . The next major component is the compressor, and that one is easy. A company called Sanden has made many of the compressors found on all kinds of modern vehicles, and it’s known for it’s reliability and efficiency. Not being able to find an actual Sanden 508, I bought a clone from a company called Green that makes compressors for large trucks (around $140) . There are many different similar compressors on Amazon and Ebay, but I opted for the Green due to good reviews. I also purchased a “York to Sanden adapter” which bolts to your old bracket and allows it to accept the new compresser. I then started pulling all the underhood components. First thing to do is pull the fan shroud and radiator, along with the hood. Once these are out of the way your endeavor will be MUCH easier. Here’s what to do: 1). Assuming your car has A/C , remove the alternator, compressor, condenser and evaporator. The plate around the shifter and vertical console panel are removed to get the evaporator out. In addition, you need to cut out one of the vertical fiberglas supports behind the panel, then unhook the hoses and wiring and slide the unit out on the right side. This sounds drastic and at one point I hit the brakes on the project rather than do this. Turns out there was nothing to it, the support is lightweight, easily cut with tin snips and easily replaced with silicone glue . I have no idea how the original designers got i theunit in there, Nostalgic Motors calls for cutting the same piece to get it out. 2) Remove the main bracket from the compressor. You won’t need the idler pulley or bracket. Now bolt the new Sanden type compressor to the adapter bracket with four bolts. Go to the parts store and ask for a 46” belt that is 7/16 wide. Your belt will either be this size or a bit longer, so trial and error will be needed. BE SURE each time you start to bolt in your alternator or compressor that the belt is already on it as you bolt it up. Don’t do what I did and find yourself removing it again and again. With no idler pulley, you must find the right size belt and let it tighten a bit as you tighten the bolts. 3) Remove the front fascia plastic plate with the four vent holes from the evaporator and discard. Now on the upper right and left side of the plastic housing, using an angle grinder trim an area about a half inch deep and 2” long. This will help it clear your vertical supports when installed. You may also have to trim a bit from the back of those fiberglas supports with a Dremel tool or metal shears. Using the supplied steel brackets, make right and left L shaped support brackets and bolt the unit to the original supports. Use the supplied drain line and T to drain the unit from the two drains on each side, T’ing and draining through the original drain hole. The rear of the unit can sit on the shelf in back of it, just make sure the front is high enough so that air exits through the existing vents and water drains rearward as it should. Now take your fan speed control , mount it in the left side of your faceplate and mount the thermostat on the right side. This is reverse of original (due to limited wiring length) so I decided to use the modern plastic escutcheon plates and knobs. You could easily use the original metal knobs if desired as they fit the same. Hook your red power wire to your original power wire and the green compressor wire to the existing wire from your compressor. Using silicone rubber, glue the fiberglas support back in position and you are ready to reassemble the console (or you may want to leave it apart at this point, just in case something in there needs attention). With the evaporator and compressor mounted, time to mount the condenser. Go to the local hardware store and get a pack of four 3” long steel mending plates with holes in them. Mount them to the evap coil, then hold it in front of the radiator and mark holes for mounting. There will be a layer of fiberglas and a layer of steel in the framework you are mounting it to. Be sure the coil is centered in the opening in front of the fan (which does not have to be removed for any of this). You may want to take this opportunity, as I did, to address any issues with the water pump, fan clutch, fuel pump, thermostat, alternator, or any other normally hard to reach parts in the area. It’s also a good time to freshen up the engine compartment with fresh paint if needed, With all the main components mounted, you’ll be needing hoses and a drier (often your evaporator will come with one). I chose to mount mine in the engine compartment instead of the inaccessible area next to the evap coil as the factory did. If available, get a drier with a sight glass. Below are the specs I used to order hoses, except for length. In my case, all but one hose were about 37”. You will want to measure for length yourself because you may elect to mount the drier in a different place. Add an inch or two to each of your measurements. Too long you can deal with, too short means a trip back to the store. Remember that if you use one right angle and one straight end on a hose, no problem, but two right angles and they must be aligned with each other just right for hose installation- they cant be twisted much. So the guy at the hose place is going to ask. The fitting sizes should be the same as mine because these components are pretty much standardized. Take these specs and the hose lengths to a company that makes refrigeration hoses. Most large cities will have one. Or, you can buy kits online to make them up yourself, but they require a special tool to crimp the ends. I decided to leave it to the experts All distances are visible rubber only. All fittings O ring type #6- Liquid line- Drier (smaller sample fitting) to bottom of condenser ( smaller sample fitting) : Straight on compressor end, 90 degree condenser end # 6 liquid line- drier - straight fitting (see smaller sample fitting) to evaporator (larger sample fitting) -90 degree #10 suction hose- compressor (7/8-14) fitting straight with charging port, evap fitting 90 degree (see old large sample- O ring, NOT flare fitting) # 8 discharge hose- compressor (3/4-16) with charging port, to condenser top (see larger sample fitting ) - 90 degrees both ends . Time to install the hoses. Use the provided illustration to install each hose in the proper location. Lubricate the O ring and tighten each fitting sufficiently. Torque specs are given for this, but I’m not sure how you put a torque wrench on a hose fitting, so I did it by feel. Remember that if not tightened enough, it may well leak. Now go to one of the parts stores and “rent” a vacuum pump if you don’t own one. These companies will let you use many tools overnight for free, refunding your money when you bring it back. Vacuum pumps are one of those tools, and are quite expensive to buy. You’ll also need a set of HVAC gauges, available at Harbor Freight. Find one of the many Youtube videos about charging a car AC system and it will help you with this part. First you will want to pull a vacuum on the system for a half hour or so and make sure it is tight. Close the valve on your gauge and wait. If vacuum holds an hour or so, you should be good (I let it sit overnight to be sure). These particular systems require about 28 ounces of freon, which you can get at your local parts store and add just like you would to any car- just make sure the system has been vacuumed down before. Add 12 ounces in liquid form with engine off, then turn can right side up and add the rest with engine running. Sitting the can in a pan of hot water will speed things up. The pressure switch installed on your drier and in series with the clutch power wire should supply power to the compressor once the initial liquid charge is added. NEVER open the red (high side) valve on the gauges, only the blue (low side) valve. After charging the system and enjoying that stream of ice cold air, you can reinstall the kick panels and console. A bit of trimming may be required in the driver side kick panel, in the back as I recall.

Ah! Maybe a parallel is plastic drywall anchors?

Also, I think the Avanti needs some kind of special inserts that fit in the holes in the fiberglass, and the screws that go through the mirror base screw into the centers of the inserts, not directly into the fiberglass.

Stefan. I just emailed you the original Avanti logo as a vector file. Sent to your email: stefan.bergsmann@chello.at One file is an EPS file and the other as a Vector .ai file (Adobe Illustrator) or similar app. Here is a screenshot of the logo (for illustration only, as this screenshot is lower resolution

My car car will start in any gear and has no working backup lights. Does the 72 Avanti use the same switches on the shifter linkage as the Studebakers did? if not, where are they located? Thanks.

The one on the left is a Stratoline and not a Strato-Vue.

Here is a comparison between original strato vue on left 2 1/2 " hole space and repro on right 3" hole spacing⁸

Hi ronmanfredi, the e-mail avanti06@att.net does not work - I just get an error message ...

My bucket had two prolems, first the plastic inserts that hold lamp adjusting screws were broken,second the slot on top that the trim ring engages was broken off. I made my own plastic inserts used a plug cutter to start, then carved away the material around the plug on my mill. For the slot repair I made a sheet metal piece and pop rivited in place. The last photo shows it all together.

Can anyone tell me where to order a set of metering rods p/n 16-287 for an R-2 Avanti? Or does anyone have a set in good shape they would be willing to sell? Jeff

I am confident that someone on this forum can help me with the below issue. I am working on a Carter AFB model 3725 for a 1964 R2 Avanti. It has two vertical holes drilled vertically into the carburetor from the bottom, into the "wells" where the air valve counterweights rotate (see two black arrows in photo below). These holes appear to be "field-drilled" (as opposed to "factory-drilled"), but perhaps this was done for a good reason . . . such as allowing accumulated gasoline to drain out of the counterweight wells before re-starting which could lead to a fire if the engine backfired. Maybe it was a field update in a factory service bulletin? I just want to be certain whether it is a good idea to plug them, or better to leave them "as-is", particularly since a blow-through supercharger is involved. I have performed plenty of "field updates" to carburetors in my career, so this is why I hesitate to just go ahead and plug them. Jeff

Spacing is 3 inches.

You'll have to send me a personal email. Vector files can't be uploaded to the forum. avanti06@att.net

Some of the aftermarket gaskets are a bit thicker than the OEM's and thus the manifold sits a bit higher. Bottom line, don't put a thin bead of RTV on the front and rear 'china walls'; use a good thick bead or you'll end up with an oil leak. And, use brake cleaner to be sure all surfaces are clean of all oil and grease. How do I know? Experience.

thank you, I can try if it is ok for the printing company

Hi, Just the Avanti with the arrow reasonably sized centered over the hood of the cover.

Thanks gonna look into that, looking for a bit more performance ya know?

When I bought my '78, it had only 24K miles and appeared to be very original throughout. The exhaust system was nothing short of terrible with a really ugly Y-pipe, and catalytic converter shoehorned in. What I found most interesting were the stainless steel mufflers which appeared to be hand welded. I can't imagine that there weren't "off the shelf" mufflers that would have worked fine. Were these hand-made mufflers really original to the '78 Avanti? Has anyone else encountered these? I was cleaning out the garage and found that I still had the mufflers. Is there any value to them beyond scrap?

Yes. I'm trying to avoid drilling more holes in the fiberglass. Soooooo...if someone could grab a tape measure and let me know. Much appreciated!!

Call Summit Racing’s tech line…explain what you have and your concerns. They will give you solid recommendations.

RQB3263/81/305 YES I DID THIS ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO SUCCESSFULLY ..... Edelbrock alum intake and Holly carb both from Summit....worked fine right out of the box .... be advised you may have hood clearance issues.... i was given a low profile 360 degree open air filter that extends down over the carb a bit to solve the problem.... these are prob available from Summit also ....use RTV and not the worm shaped gasket on the front and rear ends of the block to manifold mating surfaces.... good luck ....see ya on the Boulevard .... Bill in Florida

Rqb 1898, My 72/73 400 cu. in, I'm looking to swap to a four barrel carb set up, any good recommendations?