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Gray 4-speed. R2 1963 #R4543

It must have been $25. Everything was cheaper back then.

Hello all I have lurked the forum to learn more about these cars. I fell in love with these cars over 50 years ago. I wanted one then as a kid fresh out of high school. I lived in Chicago then. I found a R2 in a newspaper ad an went to see it. I loved it. Only problem was I lacked most of the $4000 asking price. No matter how much I begged. Dad would not loan me the money. I ended up buying a turbocharged Corvair instead. I'm interested in an Avanti II with the Chevrolet engines and GM transmissions. I have a line on what appears to be a nice one. Being old school. I'm going in person next week to inspect and drive the car. I just can't buy/ship a car sight unseen. Look forward to future ownership and getting to know others who love these cars as well. I consider the cars a rolling art form. Loved it when I found out it was designed in forty days. Reminded me of another genius I admire. Frank Lloyd Wright and the story behind the design of his masterpiece. Falling Water. He drew it out in less than 3 hours. I can't afford a Wright home. Yet I am able to purchase a different design masterpiece. from other forward thinking brilliant men. At 70 years old it's now or never. Wish me luck.

Also, the later Avanti ll rubber hose that connects the external gas inlet tube to the gas tank inlet tube is molded in two different diameters… smaller diameter at tank inlet….. These special hoses are available through Avanti parts vendors. (Stude Avantis and earlier Avanti ll’s external gas inlet tube and tank inlet tube are same diameter.)

Any other thoughts on this oddball?

Almost!!

Please "REPLY TO THIS TOPIC" below with photos of your 1963-1964 Avanti! You can "drag and drop" or "select file" to add your photo(s)

RQB3263/81/305 .... GOOD MORNING BEN FROM BILL IN SUNNY FLORIDA ...... I discovered the same situation on 3263 several years ago ... mostly due to gas smell in side car ... I removed the filler tube and cut and welded on a short piece of S/S tube the same OD as the tank tube and replaced the old leaking rubber connector with the correct ID from the local CARQUEST with new clamps ....all problems solved ... sorry no pics or at least I cant find them .....2 hr. job ... !!!

$18.50

@SCPO-PD - I would suggest following the adjustment procedure in the Studebaker Avanti shop manual, and also check that the linkage is assembled correctly. If you can't get it adjusted to work properly, there is another solution. On Avanti II's with the GM Saginaw steering column, there's another Park/Neutral safety switch on the column that can be used. Look under the dash, on the top side of the steering column, right next to where the brake pedal hinges and you'll see a switch with six terminals. From the left, the first two are for the Park/Neutral safety switch, the middle two are for the reverse lights, and the last two on the right are for the seatbelt buzzer, You will of course have to move the wiring over from the switches under the shift lever.

Well done Ron! (The sleek Avanti body had to be quite a challenge for Studebaker engineers… Very little clearance between engine & chassis… and likewise very little clearance up top between engine & hood.)

Rick The ends are solid. No hole for oil flow. The oil for the rocker arms flows from a passage in the head alongside one of the rocker arm / head bolts into the hollow rocker arm shaft. Be sure to remove the shaft end plugs and clean out the shaft. Best to remove the rockers and also clean the lube holes.

I did this same thing this morning to clear the 63R2 oil pan after I installed shorter motor mounts to lower the engine. It wasn't to fix the ram interference with the pulley, it was to prevent the bell crank from rubbing the pan. All it took was 1 standard thickness washer per bolt.

You’re welcome!…..A short money ‘fix’ !!

No idea?

Thanks for that tip, it is exactly what I needed. In response to Michael's question about mounts all is brand new. The oil pan is probably not chevy as it is chrome, likely chinese crap that may be the source of clearance problem.

OK…. The steering center bearing bracket and shaft assy can be lowered 1/8-1/4” into the front crossmember by removing the four bolts retaining it to the crossmember, and installing an equal number of flat washers at the four bolt locations (between the bearing bracket and bottom of crossmember)… then reinstall & tighten the four bolts. Doing this in effect lowers the bell crank arm gaining additional crank pulley clearance on the Studes, and pulley & oil pan clearance on the Chevys ….It’s important though, to be careful not to lower the center bearing bracket to the point where the bell crank arm interferes (or rubs) the front crossmember!

Yes, boot seal, and when I covered that 3 or 4 inch hole in the floor board behind the rear seat, the fume I smelled went away.

Why is a great question. Inferior metal? Bad batch?

Sorry, not #4!

It seems the older and wealthier people become, the more likely they are to complain about insignificant expenses. The motorhome group I was a part of for 10 years was comprised of mostly 70-80 year old couples. Everyone owned a rapidly depreciating $300K coach, yet many would pitch a fit if there wasn’t free coffee available in the morning. It’s the same here where people have the means to purchase vintage vehicles and then complain about a membership fee.

My guess is number 4

Yes you probably have an Avanti ll tank…. The diameter of the tank inlet was reduced when leaded gas was phased out.

the filler tube does not align properly with the tank. the car is a 63 and I believe the tank is a avanti two. The tank tube is smaller in diameter as well.

Probably through the 1” (?) hole provided to drain converter…. But more importantly ‘Why did this happen’?