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Looking for a source. Thanks.

I looked at a crossover chart and the XR4 is equivalent to a Champion RJ14YC…I think that’s a bit too hot. The XR5 is closer to the proper heat range but crossover charts can be inaccurate when it comes to heat ranges.

Read at one time that NGK XR4 (5858) plugs would be good choice for a '64 R2 with stock ignition, anyone can confirm that?,,,

This is a very good deal… I priced a new Hurst Comp Plus shifter & kit for a Studebaker Avanti five years ago, and was told $700-$800 (just for the shifter & kit)

Replace the idler pulley bearing….. BCA#203FF

I have some original brochures that came with R2696. Be glad to mail them to the current owner. Bob Johnstone shows the last owner in Ontario Canada but not in the AOAI registry. Mike

I’m seeing what I believe to be excess movement in the belts at idle which also seems to be causing a clattering noise. I’m not a mechanic but I will have an opportunity in a few weeks to get it back to my buddy’s shop and have his/our mechanic finish up a few other things. My question is, could a simple adjustment fix the issue or should I order a new spring and/or other parts. I’m not opposed to ordering a part that may not actually be necessary at this time, because if it is necessary I’ll have it in hand and not have to wait a week and then have to schedule shop time again. Strangely, I did not see removal, replacement or adjustment of this part 1542361 addressed in the workshop manual. This is on a 1963 R2. Thanks in advance.

OK. So when I adjust the caster angle to positive, the bolt is against the left edge of the groove, thus creating maximum adjustment. It's strange that the fit isn't more precise when the groove is suitable for almost a 9/16 inch bolt, but it's good that the parts are correct. Thanks mfg and Zedman.

I checked my old parts stash (kept for reference !) and it appears to be the same as yours- I never checked this fit so I was also surprised. Because the actual bearing surfaces are the screws and they rotate, the Pinch bolt Clamps the 'Trunnion' tightly and prevents its rotation. Don't lose sleep over this one ! 😴

Lovely- Excellent set of photos.... be very proud 🙃

We did and all is well. . .

If the bolt is cinched up tight, there will be no movement between upper pin and the king plan.

Very nice car, congrats on your work.. Also a nice place for an Italian tune-up.....

Do I have the correct Upper Control Arm Pivot Pin #524227 or is it meant to be like this? I have correct size bolt 3/8 and the hole for that is not exceptionally loose. The Pin locks easy when the bolt is tightened. But... The pin groove allows for a lot of lateral movement and the groove is wider and deeper than intended for a 3/8 bolt. I can fit about a 0.6 inch bolt in the groove. The 3/8 bolt couldn't have made that groove. This greatly affects, among other things, caster adjustment. IMG_6595.mov IMG_6592.mov

Some have used a modern activated-charcoal canister to replace that vent hose. That was described in a thread on here (or the SDC Forum) --Dwight

From the factory, the vent hose went from the top of the tank into the sail panel next to the rear window and looped around then dropping down to where it exited under the car. The loop was there to prevent fuel from escaping through that line when the tank was full due to gravity and some pressure.

WTF! I have worked on a couple of these & have never seen anything like this. All I can say is to put the fuel-tank attachments back to original. One issue with these is the vent hose that goes off the top, then over & down near the right rear wheel. Over time that hose will crack & let gas fumes into the cabin. That issue has been discussed on this forum (maybe also on SDC Forum). --Dwight

The fuel inlet to the tank had not been connected. I pulled the back seat to get to the tank and found this plumbing on top of the tank with 2 rubber lines cut off but going up on the passenger side into the headlining. the metal tubing comes out like a vent on the left and on the right, making a loop and connecting to each other with a t in the middel and a rubber line coming out but cut off after a couple inches. this is not shown in the repair manual or the parts catalog. Lots of questions I have. lol

I have a very good Borg Warner T10 4speed and Hurst Comp Plus shifter removed from my 1964 Avanti. I decided to switch over to a Mustang GT 5 speed for cross-country touring. Both very complete with all parts as removed. $1100.00 for both, no disappointments. Email me at ahpieper1952@gmail.com, Thanks, Andy

daevans315 please take a look at your personal message thanks

Truth is ‘63-‘85 Avanti air conditioning systems really can’t compare with newer vehicles A/C.., mainly because of (I believe) the lack of adjustable vents built into the upper dashboard.

Are you getting cold air out of the vents but the cars interior isn't cooling down OR is the air not cold coming out of the vents?

I have had the car for 15 years. My factory a /c has never made the car very cold. How do I greatly improve it?

Ernie. Paint fade and age makes all of that senseless.. Just get it scanned.