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I may have found these assist springs… (O’Reilly’s)… Will check them out later!

My brake handle is on the console. I pulled the rear console off to look at the switch. A spring loaded button with a yellow with black wire coming off it. Not sure what makes contact there. Also crawled under and looked at the proportioning valve. Pulled the black and yellow plug off the valve. It looked clean and I didn’t see any problems. Reservoir is full of fluid and the brakes seem normal.

Link doesn't work.

A new IG account has been created and photos from the defunct IG account will be reposted on the new one. The link is added to the main menu.

Glad it worked out!… Another important function of that same light is to alert driver if one or the other side of the car’s hydraulic brake system has failed.

You should have the OBD1 system, which was used (with updates) all the way through 1995. There were a number of manufacturers of OBD1 code readers back in the day, and used units should be readily available (cheap) on places like ebay today. Almost any of them will cover 1982 models. As noted above, Google will be able to tell you how to get the codes without a code reader by simply jumping across two of the pins on the diagnostic plug. The CEL will blink a code, like 21, three times. I use that method to quickly read the codes on my 89 Camaro. It saves me the trouble of having to re-learn how to properly use the code reader. BTW. investing in a 1982 Chevy shop manual might be a good idea . . . .

Thanks so much for your tips. Gives me an opportunity to crawl around upside down under the dash. 😁 This is giving nasty flashbacks when I owned a 1984 Chrysler convertible with O2 sensor issues. I also had a 1996 diesel Passat that developed electrical problems. Gawd, I hate E-problems. The problem with an old diesel Passat is the motor lasts forever, but the rest of the car ages poorly.... enough of my story telling.... I have had my Avanti's control unit out and in, so a corroded contact is not likely.

Since it's not an OBD2 computer system, the standard code reader won't work. GM provided a self diagnostic method where you can jump 2 pins in the diagnostic plug and then the dash light will flash in a pattern for each code. If you google the system, you will find instructions and a table that tells you what each flashing sequence means. If the O2 sensor in the exhaust system is original, you need to change it first since the original one will be worn out. The other thing to look for are loose or corroded connections with the computer system. I once had one where the main connector at the control unit just needed to be unplugged and plugged back in due to a weak condition. The CCC system is simple and cheap to fix, just get the warning light codes and go from there.

Thanks..... where does one find a code reading device?

As an aside…. Asking prices for used Paxton/McCulloch superchargers on eBay (for example) are going through the roof! I wonder how many perspective buyers realize the ‘can of worms’ they may be purchasing? Buyer beware when considering acquiring one of these 60+ year old used units!

Your JC Whitney reference made me laugh… but you’re exactly correct that items like these could be found in that great old catalog! I was hoping there still might be a source somewhere… or even a used set…they really can’t go bad !

I’ve no idea if these are even made anymore…shades of JC Whitney catalogs! Maybe a big auto swap meet would be the place to to find some NOS. A road trip to Carlisle sounds in order.

in case anyone is interested, this is the device I have on the shelf: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html

Your Avanti has what GM Called “Computer Command Control System” That check engine light is part of that (emissions) system. It should go off a few seconds after you start the engine…..If it stays on, it does not mean there is an engine problem… The light staying on indicates a problem in your Avantis emission system… which could be a multitude of items. There’s a plug under your dashboard that a code reading device can be plugged into which may zero in on the issue.

Ed, you could also review comments to your post a year ago. https://aoai.org/forums/topic/44438-r2-heads-a-necessity/

Some of these may be available: https://www.hotrod.com/features/ping-fighters-october-1981-982-1152-65-1 I have one on the shelf that I inherited from a failed twin S/C project.

AFAIK, Avanti R1s did have a sticker on the gas cap stating premium fuel only. I have what appears to be original caps with the sticker. The sticker is available from our Studebaker vendors

Years ago I purchased a pair of ‘helper’ coil springs that fit around and fastened to the front shock absorbers, and inside the main coil spring. I’ve recently installed new HD front coil springs and gas shocks on my ‘56 Golden Hawk, but that heavy Packard engine still tends to pull the nose down. Does anyone on this forum know of a source for the type of helper springs I’ve described? … I haven’t been able to find these locally anymore… or on the internet…,. Thanks folks!

I am relatively new owning this Avanti II, or any Avanti for that matter. It came with a battery isolation switch on the negative battery post to prevent a phantom drain. It came with a Sears 2-year battery. God knows how long it had been in the car. I have a new one now. When I fire it up, the Check Engine warning light comes on. Because of the age of the car, the documentation on why it came on doesn't exist... or let's say, I can't figure it out. Does any body here have any ideas what may be the issue? Thanks, CBS

That's interesting that the R1 engine was prone to pinging since that Avanti didn't come with a "use premium fuel" label on the gas cap.

Non-expert here, but, yes. If we assume that Studebaker chose the compression ratios correctly for the R1 & R2 engines, then adding a supercharger would increase the "effective" compression ratio by 1.25 points ( R1 has 10.25:1, R2 has 9:1). So, adding a blower to an R1 would increase its effective C.R. from 10.25:1 to 11.5:1. An 11.5 C.R. is pretty high, I assume too high for 93 octane fuel, unless one drove the car very easy. (I realize that my reasoning isn't exactly correct, but isn't too far off.)

Thanks! Somehow over the past 63 years my wave washers disappeared. I had no idea they were supposed to be there. I have ordered some and crossing my fingers they will do the trick. I appreciate the tip!

So, I take from the above insightful replies that, for an R1 converted to R2 specs… without a cylinder head change… Improved (forged) pistons, and aviation type gasoline are the safe play! (If engine is to be run hard)

had the one for my 79 rebuilt by them when they were in Lynnwood WA a couple years ago, 30 minutes from me. They turned it in 3 days with me dropping it off and picking up. Looks like they just moved 60 miles south.