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On mine I decided to make a few "adjustments". Because I'm using the R-3 airbox and wanted a little more clearance I went with two 1/4" plates (3" x 4") at the "A" pillar mounting pads and a thinner front motor mount. I didn't want to effect the original rake so I made rear spring shackets 1" longer than the original ones. I lowered the body down onto the A pillar plates (1/2" total) and used 1/8" shims at the rear most body mounts (rear of the trunk). Then I started sliding stacks (a combination of 1/8" and 1/4" as needed) of shims into all the remaining spaces. Not until I had filled all the spaces did I start tightening up the bolts. I also added rubber pads under the frame/body rubbers to take up the addition spaces. I ended up using all the original shims and a handful of new ones I made from flat stock the correct size.

I'm in the process of putting my car back together with an R-3 clone engine. My plan was to use the R-3 air cleaner set up, but after looking at these pictures I don't like the idea of mounting the air cleaner in front of the radiator (for a couple reasons!). I'd like to avoid drawing in air from the engine compartment, so I'm open to options.

With the chassis completed, body finish painted, and body remounted on the chassis, it is now time to organize the rest of the needed parts and put my car back together. Today's problem is that when I sent the interior parts out to be recovered the upholstery shop "lost" the cores for the two front and two rear armrests, so I need to track down replacements. I'm hoping some of the members on this forum have a '63 parts car that has "salvageable" cores that I can talk them out of. I'm going to have them recovered so I don't care what color they are, but I hope to find cores that are not so water damaged that they have to be rebuilt. I live in Mass, so if I could find them close I could hopefully pick them up to avoid problems with shipping (a guy can hope can't he??).

@Bobcat - here's some pics of the linkage connection at the transmission. The larger rod angles up from the transmission to the steering column to lock the transmission in Park with the key removed. The smaller rod goes back to the shifter. I hope this helps. If you need something specific let me know and I'll try grab some more pics. Good luck!

Ron, thank you for the production numbers, I have printed them and added them to my binder for the next owner. . .they are going to have to wait a long time. .E

I really don't know, maybe in his late 60s-70s. He recently built a new house and moved a few states away from his last location and mentioned he had dozens of boxes and filing cabinets of stored records that were being moved. He's always busy with projects to make money plus with AOAI and SDC so it's just what is a priority for him.

Thanks Ron. I can see it likely isn't going to happen. How old is John? Ok.. I'm skeptical.

I have not. Would be very appreciative of pics. Thanks

If someone finds one. . .I can assist in making a PDF out of it for the rest of us without one. . .what a great mission.

bump

235/60 14 However, with a size close to the original, 205/75 15, this would be exacerbated because they have 50 mm (2") more diameter.

What size tires and wheels are on it?

Hello everyone, I am writing from Germany. I am currently restoring my Avanti. Among other things, there is a problem with the rear height of the vehicle. It is much too high. When it is on the ground, the leaf spring is practically straight and the pivot bearing is completely folded back. Is this normal or is there an incorrect leaf spring in there? Does anyone have a picture of how the situation should be in its original condition?

@Bobcat - were you able to solve this? If not I can probably get my car jacked up and grab some pics on Friday.

AFAIK, all modern cars have their air cleaner on the engine, but with a hose leading out to behind the grille in order to bring in fresh air. So, Studebaker had the right idea, just didn't implement it very well. For my car I'm stuck with the factory setup, which at least, is better than the R2's air cleaner. But, ideally, one could leave the air cleaner where it is on an R2 and do major surgery on the air cleaner and fender apron to bring in fresh air. The fresh air could be sourced from a hole in the fiberglass to the left (i.e., passenger side) of the radiator (behind the grille). Oldsmobile implemented a fresh-air intake well in the '60s on the 442. --Dwight

That’s the point Dwight.. ‘not rain friendly’!!…. Besides that, it’s blocking a portion of the radiator…. and we all know an Avanti’s cooling system needs all the airflow it can get! Also, in the event of a front end collision, the air filter canister would be rammed right into the radiator, wiping both items out!

This is a good topic for discussion. I have an R3 Avanti that I will soon be putting back together, so I have a near-term need to know. I would assume that rotating the air cleaner so that the intake is pointed toward the grille would achieve a bit of ram-air effect. One wouldn't want to ever drive in the rain, though! --Dwight, R-5407, R3, 4-spd

Actually, for the most part, the Hawk canisters was the same but the Hawks had two studs sticking out the front for the mounting bracket. So, the above is not for the Hawks.

No shops in my area. $400 for a rebuilt. I live on a pension.

I understand Studebaker was desperate to get the air filter assy out of the super hot Avanti engine compartment, frankly though, the factory filter location on the R3’s couldn’t be worse for an Avanti in everyday use!

I've never bench bled a master cylinder. Don't know why it is necessary or desirable . Enlighten me.

I would not even think about DIY! I'd take it to a shop that rebuilds hydraulic cylinders; it is reasonable price-wise and will likely be done right,

I found a similar light in my car a previous owner had installed. It was connected to an alarm system common to those used in the 80s and 90s.

slk1966 Yep. I will do the adjustement. No problem. Dan Booth wrote me kindly that it's possible to the tie rods with the adjuster located on the outside end. Which works fine. It does not change your alignment if you just turn the tie rod around. He confirmed my thoughts. Anyway I need to work with exhaust pipe to give more space.

Perhaps a blinking red light for alarm system or to make people think there was an alarm?