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‘White Cast’ refers to material carb is made of.

Will Carter four Barrel?

Beautiful Avanti!

It’s not real early. 6R3544. I also have a white with orange which is 48##. I think there were two or three with a little later number but less than 4892.

That’s a remarkable job… Kudos to you Nelson! Also, the rest of the interior looks real nice… I have a hunch it’s an early serial number car, having what appears to be an Avanti Gold exterior with the fawn/orange interior?

Sorry, SOLD

1963 Avanti R2 4 Speed. R4200. Just received back from Myers Studebaker for an engine out repaint and rechrome. Avanti red with black interior. New seat covers and padding. New rubber seals. Mechanically, new A arm bushings, rear main seal, hoses, belts, gaskets,freeze plugs, clutch, throw out bearing, motor mounts, master cylinder, battery, fuel pump, tach sender. $79,500. Contact Tim 380-260-0146 Car is in Pickerington, Ohio

By the way Brad…. On a different note…. The Carter carb letters WCFB Stand for ‘White Cast Four Barrel’!

That texture paint is interesting. It mentions dashes but also bumpers. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a textured bumper which leaves me wondering if the product allows a textured finish to me added using texture stamps often used in vinyl repair.

That’s one gorgeous Avanti!… Love the wheels & tires! My own ‘83 had factory installed Daytons at the ‘83 new car auto show, but it’s first owner ordered them off the car… too much trouble to keep clean I guess.

Nice job, Nels. There is a paint on the market to restore the texture of vinyl. And, for those of us who are less creative in the use of materials, there are materials for repairing vinyl on the market. It would not surprise me if the vinyl repair filler (below) is just re-packaged Bondo (like you used). I, too, have a '63 Avanti that I am trying to resurrect, including the dash. --Dwight

Good day all. Just wanted to show my New wheels and tires for the 83'. I now have 4 original Daytons that I will be putting up for sale. I'll be using the Boxes that my American Racing wheels came in, in order to ship the Daytons. I'll get pics asap and put them up on the "for sale" page here and on FB.

Thanks for the compliments. Yes it’s pretty much all bondo. I did use fiberglass mesh on the large cracks in an effort to keep them from returning. I also did the crack areas with the better bondo with glass fiber already in it. That stuff is a lot harder to sand so all the major applications were done using light weight stuff as it sands easily. There is no grain in the bondoed areas. I bought some spray bed liner thinking it might look like grain but it just looked like paint. I was thinking you might be able to shrink wrap a grained skin on the whole dash? Actually it looks good enough. I doubt there will be many people that notice the different textures

WOW, not perfect but sure looks passable to me. Nice job you did.

.....and this is all Bondo???

Ah ha!…. Thanks

Compression ratios. The R2 needs more initial advance, and less total advance when the boost comes on.

Impressive results, but even more so by not having removed the dash from the car !

Concerning the major differences in Studebaker Avanti R1 and R2 distributor advance curves, and also basic timing adjustments … Why did Studebaker engineers feel it necessary to change these specifications between their supercharged and their unsupercharged engines?

I have a pair of brand new 1963 Avanti glass headlight lenses. Still in the box, made by Endurance Built Products. Never have been mounted. I can bring to the 2025 National SDC/AOAI Meet, if prepaid. They are ONLY for sale at this price, for delivery there. IF not presold, they will be available later, at a higher price, as I do not want to ship. Half price from what I paid, as I no longer own the car, that I was going to put them on. $100 for the pair. I paid $200. George Rohrbach

A friend owns a real nice white ‘64 Stude Avanti, that features a full claret interior, black carpeting, and the ‘woodgrain’ steering wheel & dash pieces…… Absolutely beautiful!

Thanks for your input.

IIRC there was a document detailing at what serial number all of these changes took place. I can't find it at the moment. --Dwight

if there is any local delamination at the hinge you may need to do a ply repair. I've heard of the disbond problem and panelbond would be the right thing to use for that. on my 79 the hood hinge pad was getting crunchy. I did a 5 ply tapered repair with woven cloth and SMC resin. There was a lot of panelbond smeared in and around the damage, I ground that out.

I am driving and will be able to bring it with me. I will send you a e-mail. Steve