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If your Avanti is like my 1987 Avanti it has several hot wires supplying the interior. I have seen problems with these wires having loose contacts at the firewall plug. I would start there. Good luck, Jim Wood

As an aside, why did Avanti Motors switch from having a lock in the handle to a separate lock cylinder? It's ugly and you have the filler plate where the cylinders used to be.

I have a LSX motor being build but nothing fun to put it in. Would like Gm based late model or mustang based later car. Want to put a Procharger on a avanti. My last NA built LSX torque build for a H2

Coming home from a car show last week on a very hot day, I turned on the A/C. Worked fine and then I notice a 11 volt reading on dash volt meter. shut off A/c and it went back to 12 volts. Has always read 12 volts while normal operation. Noticed same with lights on. Did a reading on battery, with multi meter, not running, read 12.6 volts . Started car, read 14.2 on multimeter at idle. Gauge in car at 12 volts. Turned on lights and A/C while idling, gauge in car dropped to 11 volts, multimeter read 14.0. Appears charging system works fine, never had any starting issues, so probably bad gauge? If so I can ignore till I have a need to tear into dash which needs a few light bulbs. Opinions?? Dan

Please find here all specification about early Avanti with SBC 327 / 300 hp , it was in my Avanti glove boxe David RQA 0215

Good day Ron and Thanks for letting me know. I appreciate it.

Well, this Brooks. after cleaning my tank, I have discovered 2 holes in the side of my tank... Repair time now I guess

On my 82 model, I ran American Racing Mono Cast 15 x 7 wheels with zero offset and 235/70R15 tires and didn't have any problem. zero offset on the 7" wheel is 3.5" backspace.

Not sure of the year of your beautiful Avanti… but pre ‘89 models have an emergency release in the fiberglass apron behind and over the right front tire… Latch can be released with long screwdriver.

Good day All. I'm planning on replacing my Dayton Wires & tires with a "mag" style(5-spoke) wheel and a little wider tire, both, front and rear or my 83. After doing some research on here and asking some folks, I'd like get some verification that what I want to do is Viable. Currently, I'm running the Factory Dayton Wires with a 235/78R15 tire. I want to switch those out with REV Wheels 100 Classic Series - 15x7 - 4 - 5x4.5 with BFG TA's 205/60R15(Front) and 235/70R15(Rear). I've read and heard that it should be a 15 x 6, but I see that quite a few are running 15 x 7's. I'm most concerned about the Fronts because of the possibility of rubbing when turning. Will a 15X7 cause rubbing issues? What backspacing would be recommended? I've read 3 7/8". Any and all comments & advise are welcome. BTW, the Dayton's will be for sale after I change over. Thank you

Hood won't open stuck on passenger side.

Often the "new" door strikers are a tad off in the teeth underneath, and dot engage the latch pawl correctly. It's often I have had to rotory file them to fit properly. Also if using old parts, the striker can get a notch worn into where it rubs on the lock interlock at the back of the latch, and you wont be able to lock the doors because the lever does not get depressed fully when the door is shut. You can remedy this by drilling a small hole, and installing a machine screw so it protrudes just enough to work the interlock. Then your doors will lock.

Mark L... This picture is before cleaning. Here you see dark fragile (frosty) area which has been there very long time.

The final fracture occurred suddenly in the small, "frosty" looking area. The crack spread gradually across the larger area where the "tree rings" are located.

Thank you… Good info!

Browsing Youtube today, I found an interesting instructional video on how the Avanti Door lock system works. It is worthy of a look.

Extremely interesting!

mgf... Not at all 🙂 As you can see. There is a fragile area in the metal with a wavy pattern. A manufacturing defect in the hardening, which however lasted for decades until it gave way with normal movement. It's a wonder it took this long.

Wow!…. And you didn’t ‘drop the hammer’?

seat bolts

Hi, This might also be of interest to this forum. I wrote about this on Facebook. When I left the traffic lights (standard way) the rear axle pinion broke as you can see in the pictures. I think the best estimate is that it is a manufacturing defect (hydrogen embrittlement during manufacturing) that has lasted for decades. I don't think the warranty is valid anymore 🙂

Thanks Brad. The replacement I purchased should arrive today. Minor money. I'll try what you did and see if I can do the same. I appreciate your response. John

Usually it's just a poor internal connection. I take them apart, clean the contacts, and put them back together with the end caps from a slow blow fuse from my well. The mercury part of the switch is a glass sealed cartridge and it's the outside of that connections, that corrode.

Can’t really think of any other source for that item but him.

I ordered a build sheet way back in last June for my 72 from Nostalgic Motors. As of this writing I have still not recieved it. I contacted Dan Booth nearly a month ago and he told me they did not get the VIN number of my car. I provided it. He said the sheet is going in the mail that day. I have still not recieved it. I finally spoke with Dan yesterday. Apparently, the US mail service is the culprit. He has mailed me a second copy of my build sheet. I had a great conversation with Dan for almost an hour. He is a wealth of information and my new number one go to for many of my needs!