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Here is an article from the 1975 Avanti Newsletter that may help.

Reproduction Avanti Stratoview mirrors are notorious for this problem… The mirror head itself is very heavy, and there is no easy way to correct the looseness without removing the mirror glass…. and even with the glass removed, there may not be a really permanent way to tighten up the ball stud.

The driver's side door mirror on my 1964 Avanti R1 changes position when driven. Please advise if the mirror can be tightened.

You now have direct access to the AOAI Facebook Groups, AOAI Instagram Clubs and the SDC Forums. The original Instagram Club hasn't been active for quite some time and we are working with the creator to see if he can access it and transfer it to us. If not, we will be creating a new one.

If you read to the end, you will see the price listed.

Good thought… but not today’s answer!

Thanks for the input. Good luck to all.

All that info and no listed price? By the way, that's a clone of mine except mine is an R2

In 1963 lets say if they were #1. 75% better that would be a huge improvement. So #1 is my guess.

The 1963 Studebaker Avanti built in roll bar was considered, at that time, to be…..?…. stronger than the minimum requirement set by USAC for roll bars. 1) 75%……2) 140%……3) 175%…..or……4) 200%

Great car … with an excellent description!

The front shocks are the same as a ‘63-‘65 Buick Riviera. I don’t know of a direct rear crossover. I do believe you can modify rear Camaro shocks for the rear but I don’t know what years.

Does anyone know what brand X year make and model fits front and rear shocks for a 72 Avanti? I’m asking because I can get them for employee cost at O’Reilly auto parts if there are parts that fit.

WOW IT JUST DOESNT GET ANY BETTER THAN THIS .......!!!!!

For various reasons, I am getting out of the Avanti ownership hobby. This very early Avanti – the 28th one made for public sale (Chassis # 63R-1028)– has been in the family since 1968. It is an R1 with automatic transmission and was built in July 1962. After 30 years of ownership and serving as daily driver for my father-in-law Richard Zimmerman, I then purchased it from him in 1998. From 1999 – 2001 it was treated to a professional, frame-off restoration which included new “hogs troughs” and frame rebuild. It has been lovingly treated since then. There is zero rust under it. All the chrome was replated at that time and still presents as new. I replaced the interior carpet, trunk carpet and dash pad in 2002. The steering wheel is like new. The R1 engine was bored out to 304.5 and rebuilt when it had approximately 85,000 miles on it. The odometer shows 112,151 miles now. The Carter 4bbl was rebuilt by Dave Thibault 4 years ago. Only 100% 91 octane gasoline (no gasohol) has been used in it, with lead replacer gas additive. The mechanical fuel pump has been removed and an electronic fuel pump installed, which removes the threat of vapor lock, and provides good priming when starting it after sitting for a long time. The re-chromed air cleaner houses a recently recharged K&N filter. Brakes: The single reservoir master cylinder has been replaced with a dual master cylinder for safety reasons. Rear brakes – pads and wheel cylinders – were professionally replaced last year. The entire brake system plumbing was also replaced then with copper-alloy ("NICOPP"), DOT-approved brake lines. Upper and lower radiator hoses were replaced at that time too. The front turn signals, and rear lights, brake and signals have been converted to LED bulbs and electronic flasher for much brighter brake and signal lights. This car scored 391 points at the 2009 Cedar Rapids Studebaker International Meet. But wait! It’s really a Studebaker Avanti Owner’s Starter Kit! Included with the sale are the following: Original steel wheels – four (4) – used, no cracks, good shape Lightly used tires mounted on above wheels – no weather checking Show quality wheel covers – Three (3) - used Wheel cover with a scratch – One (1) – used The following items were purchased over the course of 28 years to have on hand if and when parts on the car should fail or need replacing: Dual Point set – new Distributor cap – new Rotor – new Condenser – new Pertronix electronic ignition - #1584 – new AM Radio – used, untested, was told it works. Starter motor, complete – new/rebuilt Armature for starter motor – spare, appears new Voltage regulator - new Fram PH11 Oil filters – Seven (7) – new 1 engine fan with viscous – new NOS front coil springs – Two (2) – new Front disc brakes – very used Carpet underlayment, carpet pieces Red rear light and signal lenses – Four (4) – new Red rear light and signal lenses – Two (2) – used “C” pillar badge frame – chrome – One – new Chrome shift knob – used Carburetor dash pot/kicker – used Seat belt anchors Rear wheel cylinder – rebuilt Rear wheel cylinder – used but OK Water pumps – two (2) – new Stainless engine static shield kit complete – used Front wheel spindle – one (1) – NOS Door latches two (2) – new Air cleaner element – lightly used Steering wheel center, chrome – New Electric fuel pump – new Fan/Blower motor – NOS Interior rear-view mirror – repop, new Glove compartment doors – Very used Dash pad – original to car, used Door springs two (2) – NOS Chrome oil breather caps – two (2) – used Mechanical fuel pump to rebuild – used Mechanical fuel pump – rebuilt – new Inside vent screens – Two (2) – NOS Transmission pressure plates – seven (7) – NOS Electronic LED turn signal flasher, spare Mechanical turn signal flasher – original, works with incandescent Avanti Parts Manual Avanti Shop Manual Stan Gundry’s “What the Shop Manual Won’t Tell You” What it needs: - Wiper switch (wipers work, they just won’t “home” consistently when shut off.) - Seams and welting on the backs of the front seats could be freshened up. There are no cracks, rips or fading in the seat vinyl anywhere. - Interior “C” pillar vinyl is stained and could be replaced or painted. - Glove box door shuts hard because the dash pad is one of those early reproductions that is “off” in one corner. - Windshield washer bag and tubing should be replaced. - Paint is now 25 years old and could use a professional cleaning and buffing. It’s a good “ten-footer”. This car is mechanically sound – you can drive it home. In summary, this car is in a good position for someone to take it to the next level to become a consistent show winner. Or, drive it and turn heads just as it is. The car and all the parts listed – the whole works – is offered for sale at $33,000 OR BEST OFFER. Includes the car AND all the goodies listed above. Low-ball offers will preclude you from further consideration, so be serious with your interest and intentions. The car and parts are located near New Boston, IL To schedule your time to see and test-drive the car in person, call or text me at 815-seven-five-1, four-eight-6- two. Or email me at rshurson@frontiernet.net. There are A TON more pictures - so if there is anything specifically you'd like to take a closer look at, LET ME KNOW. Thank you for your interest.

There are appx 1 inch holes inset at the upper rear of the front doors on my 1990 4 dr. These receive screws and spacer tubes from the body and help position the doors. But some part is missing a rubber bumper? Anyone have an intact one? While I'm on board, does anyone have an intact cover for the passenger side A/C system, under the dash? A photo of either of these items would be welcome!

Thank you for info on the 63 R1. I'm looking for Car more like Skip Lackie's 1974 Avanti II. His car checks all the things I am looking for. I would like a reliable driver in the Philadelphia, PA area. (250 mile radius). Thank you, Howard

I am in need of the drivers side rear stabilizer shaft support for a 64 Avanti. It is part number 1557477. New or used is fine.

Hello , my 67 have the original brake booster and i rebuild it with a kit for 1966/70 CHRYSLER B body; but you can find easely a new one https://themoparshop.com/shop/1966-1970-mopar-b-body-bendix-style-brake-booster/

Make them yourself is probably the easiest way.

Where I was going was long term. With the solenoid in line, the gas will shut off and keep gas from flowing whether minimal in the tank or if the tank is full. Plus, I have mine wired to the ignition through a barrel switch which is hidden and must be turned on to open the solenoid. If someone tries to steal the car, they'll get a few hundred yards. Good luck.

New booster and master cylinder from Stude Int'l four years ago. The seating depth in the m/c was less than on the original m/c and the booster was physically a bit different, larger I think, than the one I took off. Bottom line, the rod on the booster had to be screwed almost all the way in for the proper adjustment. Now the booster has failed. So I'm wondering if I got the correct booster and/or m/c from SI or if my original setup was incorrect. My m/c is good but I'm willing to replace that as well if I can get the right combination. Recommendations for the booster, m/c and/or both? Thanks folks. I'll appreciate any and all input.

Thank you. I’m still trying to find a source for those special bolts. I’m missing a total of 3.

In the lower picture, the nut is missing. The vent window should have two of these adjustment bolts/nuts: One in the to and one in the bottom. In your case the top one should be completely in and the bottom one out, then locked with the nut. The missing bolt is needed also. Have a look in the manual for details.

Okay, I've used a piece of the a-pillar seal. Works great, no more leaks!