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A new IG account has been created and photos from the defunct IG account will be reposted on the new one. The link is added to the main menu.

Glad it worked out!… Another important function of that same light is to alert driver if one or the other side of the car’s hydraulic brake system has failed.

You should have the OBD1 system, which was used (with updates) all the way through 1995. There were a number of manufacturers of OBD1 code readers back in the day, and used units should be readily available (cheap) on places like ebay today. Almost any of them will cover 1982 models. As noted above, Google will be able to tell you how to get the codes without a code reader by simply jumping across two of the pins on the diagnostic plug. The CEL will blink a code, like 21, three times. I use that method to quickly read the codes on my 89 Camaro. It saves me the trouble of having to re-learn how to properly use the code reader. BTW. investing in a 1982 Chevy shop manual might be a good idea . . . .

Thanks so much for your tips. Gives me an opportunity to crawl around upside down under the dash. 😁 This is giving nasty flashbacks when I owned a 1984 Chrysler convertible with O2 sensor issues. I also had a 1996 diesel Passat that developed electrical problems. Gawd, I hate E-problems. The problem with an old diesel Passat is the motor lasts forever, but the rest of the car ages poorly.... enough of my story telling.... I have had my Avanti's control unit out and in, so a corroded contact is not likely.

Since it's not an OBD2 computer system, the standard code reader won't work. GM provided a self diagnostic method where you can jump 2 pins in the diagnostic plug and then the dash light will flash in a pattern for each code. If you google the system, you will find instructions and a table that tells you what each flashing sequence means. If the O2 sensor in the exhaust system is original, you need to change it first since the original one will be worn out. The other thing to look for are loose or corroded connections with the computer system. I once had one where the main connector at the control unit just needed to be unplugged and plugged back in due to a weak condition. The CCC system is simple and cheap to fix, just get the warning light codes and go from there.

Thanks..... where does one find a code reading device?

As an aside…. Asking prices for used Paxton/McCulloch superchargers on eBay (for example) are going through the roof! I wonder how many perspective buyers realize the ‘can of worms’ they may be purchasing? Buyer beware when considering acquiring one of these 60+ year old used units!

Your JC Whitney reference made me laugh… but you’re exactly correct that items like these could be found in that great old catalog! I was hoping there still might be a source somewhere… or even a used set…they really can’t go bad !

I’ve no idea if these are even made anymore…shades of JC Whitney catalogs! Maybe a big auto swap meet would be the place to to find some NOS. A road trip to Carlisle sounds in order.

in case anyone is interested, this is the device I have on the shelf: http://www.jandssafeguard.com/NewUniversal/UniversalVersion.html

Your Avanti has what GM Called “Computer Command Control System” That check engine light is part of that (emissions) system. It should go off a few seconds after you start the engine…..If it stays on, it does not mean there is an engine problem… The light staying on indicates a problem in your Avantis emission system… which could be a multitude of items. There’s a plug under your dashboard that a code reading device can be plugged into which may zero in on the issue.

Ed, you could also review comments to your post a year ago. https://aoai.org/forums/topic/44438-r2-heads-a-necessity/

Some of these may be available: https://www.hotrod.com/features/ping-fighters-october-1981-982-1152-65-1 I have one on the shelf that I inherited from a failed twin S/C project.

AFAIK, Avanti R1s did have a sticker on the gas cap stating premium fuel only. I have what appears to be original caps with the sticker. The sticker is available from our Studebaker vendors

Years ago I purchased a pair of ‘helper’ coil springs that fit around and fastened to the front shock absorbers, and inside the main coil spring. I’ve recently installed new HD front coil springs and gas shocks on my ‘56 Golden Hawk, but that heavy Packard engine still tends to pull the nose down. Does anyone on this forum know of a source for the type of helper springs I’ve described? … I haven’t been able to find these locally anymore… or on the internet…,. Thanks folks!

I am relatively new owning this Avanti II, or any Avanti for that matter. It came with a battery isolation switch on the negative battery post to prevent a phantom drain. It came with a Sears 2-year battery. God knows how long it had been in the car. I have a new one now. When I fire it up, the Check Engine warning light comes on. Because of the age of the car, the documentation on why it came on doesn't exist... or let's say, I can't figure it out. Does any body here have any ideas what may be the issue? Thanks, CBS

That's interesting that the R1 engine was prone to pinging since that Avanti didn't come with a "use premium fuel" label on the gas cap.

Non-expert here, but, yes. If we assume that Studebaker chose the compression ratios correctly for the R1 & R2 engines, then adding a supercharger would increase the "effective" compression ratio by 1.25 points ( R1 has 10.25:1, R2 has 9:1). So, adding a blower to an R1 would increase its effective C.R. from 10.25:1 to 11.5:1. An 11.5 C.R. is pretty high, I assume too high for 93 octane fuel, unless one drove the car very easy. (I realize that my reasoning isn't exactly correct, but isn't too far off.)

Thanks! Somehow over the past 63 years my wave washers disappeared. I had no idea they were supposed to be there. I have ordered some and crossing my fingers they will do the trick. I appreciate the tip!

So, I take from the above insightful replies that, for an R1 converted to R2 specs… without a cylinder head change… Improved (forged) pistons, and aviation type gasoline are the safe play! (If engine is to be run hard)

had the one for my 79 rebuilt by them when they were in Lynnwood WA a couple years ago, 30 minutes from me. They turned it in 3 days with me dropping it off and picking up. Looks like they just moved 60 miles south.

A stock R1 engine is prone to detonation (pinging). I'm no expert, but I assume that the first thing detonation damages is the rings; it breaks them. Adding the boost of a blower would increase the fuel octane required to prevent detonation. Of course, the timing is different on an R2 than an R1. I assume that, if one were to add a blower to an R1, then the R2 timing should be used (both initial & distributor). I have also thought of adding a Paxton to my R1 engine. No more than I would drive the car the extra cost of racing gas might be worth it. If I were caught somewhere without availability of racing gas I would drive it easy home & refill with racing gas before driving the car hard.

I turbo charged my first engine in 1978, a Datsun 620 pickup with a 2 Liter 4-cylinder engine. It was all a custom/experimental job with 2 stages of water injection, and ignition retard through the use of a pressure switch and second set of magnetic pick-up coils in the distributor. Back then, it was easy to get 98 octane gas, which I ran. Right out of the gate, the ring lands collapsed on the pistons at about 8 PSI of boost. So, I went with forged pistons, lowered the compression ratio from 10 to 8 PSI and O-ringed the block. Once the engine was broken in, I continued to increase the boost by raising the turbo blow off valve pressure until the limit was hit, 28 PSI. The engine, which by now had been rebuilt a couple of times, continued to run without further problems. For the next year or so, the only reoccurring problem was the nut on the transmission output shaft behind 5th gear would eventually get loose due to the power and I'd loose 5th gear. (The turbo was a Nissan race car turbo of the day) The 2 Liter Datsun engine had a 5 main bearing crank which was basically a Z Car crank cut down for a 4 cylinder. As an educated auto tech at the Datsun dealer for about 12 years, we never really had many problems with the engines lower end, unless the owner let the vehicle run out of oil. But the pistons, that was a different story. Over the next decade, I continued to work in conjunction with a couple of other specialty shops developing sellable turbo kits for several models of Datsun cars. The one thing that we always insisted on, was lowering the compression. Not for the lower end, but for the pistons.

While I’m no expert at it…it’s more than just the additional compression ratio…the compression actually increases exponentially…maybe logarithmically…not sure the correct term…engine rpm’s increase multiplied by the pulley ratio. Modern engines with blowers and turbos have waste gates to keep the engines from blowing up…I don’t believe the Stude engine has any. The potential of detonation is very real. While I might be very wrong on the engineering of it…too much compression is very hard on the engine. I’ve heard of R1 engines having a blower installed but I would imagine they’re not driven very hard. Studebaker engines…while very strong…have to be warranted and having engines blowing up due to overstressing would be very expensive for Studebaker plus the bad publicity. As it was…Studebaker sold the R3 engines without a warranty.