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The folding wheelchair ramps on city transit busses are secured in the same fashion. (See Gillig bus video)

I'm not a buyer, but they certainly are pretty. --Dwight

Thanks Grant, I’m going to give that a try here in the next week or so. Mike

Bump

To recap my experience. (I gave it in another posting) Loosely Install the two end brackets with bushings. Slide the sway bar into one end until it extends out the end. Next slide the other end into the other side and adjust so each have about the same amount in the bushings. The ends of the bar will be about 1/2 inch inside the bushings. Now raise the center of the bar and support it just below the final location. The inside bushings should have been in place before sliding the ends into the outside bushings. Loosely put the tabs for the upper supports in to their slots and raise the center support to hold the brackets in place. I used a bell jack to push a support bracket up until the bolt can be put through the bracket and frame support hole then loosely bolted them together. Do the same thing for the other bracket and then tighten all four brackets.

Our 2006 Avanti like others, have had a problem with the rear corners moving/vibrating when hitting bumps. Adjusting the hood helps some, but doesn’t fix it. Some owners have added hood pins which go through the hood or installed a latch on each corner similar to the original Avanti had. As we were traveling to the AOAI meet this year as a passenger, I could see the corner bouncing around at times and it hit me; why don’t I figure out a way to have a magnetic latch to each side? The electro-magnet would turn on when the engine was running and off when parked. Once back home, I started doing research on electro magnets and found a company called APW Company who makes all kinds of permanent and electro magnets, so I ordered two EM100-12-122 1 ½” wide electro-magnets and two matching plates. The magnet have a rating of about 70 pounds which means it takes 70 pounds of pressure to remove the plates from the magnet. Next was to decide where and how to mount them. I decided to mount the magnets next to the outer hood stops using a thick aluminum bracket that attaches to the hood stop threaded shaft. The brackets will need some twisting and bending to meet the plates on the hood correctly. (the hood is not parallel to the hood stops so the bracket has to be bent so there is full contact between the magnet and plate). To wire the magnets up, I placed the ground lead on the screw that holds the magnet to the bracket, which is grounded to the metal inner fender. For power, I went to the harness close to the ignition switch and tapped into the white wire with a yellow tracer. I placed a 5 amp fuse inline with the power wire. The electro-magnets draw about .4 amps each, so 2 of them would be under a 1 amp draw. We then went to a car show, which was a 4 hour round trip and no matter what kind of bump in the road, the hood corners never moved at all. The problem was now fixed! One of the other issues with the hood latching is flex in the hood latch firewall section and as you continue to tighten down the hood, you are actually pulling the hood down in the middle. With the 2 pieces of plastic trim under the wiper arms removed, you can grab that firewall piece of metal and move it back and forth with little effort. To correct this, I took a piece of aluminum metal and added a brace, which eliminated any flexing of the latch firewall. (picture 3) Lastly, I had already placed a hood stop close to the latch to hold the hood firmly in place when latched. (picture 4). The process I would use to do this again is to install the brace, install the hood stop, adjust the hood latch and stops and then install the magnets. For our car, the latch brace, corner stop adjustments and electro magnets have eliminated all hood movement issues.

Thanks Grant. I'll take a look.

I’m going to swap out my sway bars. Let us know if you have any tips on the installation. Mike

Late to the game on this post; but, Champion makes an aluminum radiator specifically for the Avanti. The part # is 6385, and can be had in 2 or 3 row configurations. Listed to fit 65-85 Avanti's.

About 30 years ago, my local garage/dealer sent the power steering cylinder to a local shop to have the shaft re-chromed. It started to leak again after the last 10 years of non-use and I ordered a rebuild kit....did the replacement myself and no more leaks. If the shaft of the cylinder shows any signs of pitting, you will need to replace the cylinder or get the shaft re-chromed..otherwise the rebuild kit should stop any leaks there.

I heard the same thing (from Dan Booth) but since the outer edges of the bushings have a lip that the support brackets sit inside, I am not worried about the bushings walking out.

Thanks, have some coming from a different source. Will let everyone know if they work out.

Dwight, thank you very much for responding and the information, I really appreciate it.

I have mine from the 80’s, still in its plastic wrap, decades before I got my car. Mike

A guy told me he put a screw in that hole to keep the bushing from “walking” out. Don’t know if that is a thing, mine haven’t moved. Mike

I am about to reassemble the front sway bar after having the coil springs replaced. All the supports for the bushings have a 1/4" in hole (un-threaded). Would it be wise to add zerk grease fittings to these holes? My alternative is to occasionally spray some lithium grease around the sides of the bushings. (the bushings are rubber) If I do put grease fittings on...should I drill a hole through the rubber down to the bar or just grease around the inside of the supports?

AOAI

Hi 64studebakerAvanti.. Try here.... https://www.wclco.com/lock-washers/toothed-lock-washers/pyramidal-type-lock-washers/

Who awarded these?

This is from 1985. 3 1/2 inches x 2 1/8 inches.

Count me in!

For NewEnglanders…. Annual Studebaker/Avanti/Packard ‘Octoberfest’ at Larz Anderson Park in Brookline, Massachusetts is TOMORROW! …10/19/25….Always a great turnout… Weather predicted excellent!! ( Brookline Museum of Transportation)

Yeah, Dwight... Thats good for us ''owners''. Those on here or in search of a deal are the ones who don't make out well. When I see a '73' Model bringing $152k+, it was all due to the rest-mod work done on the car since a 'stock'' version wouldn't bring but about $20-25k. This resto-mod was one of the best examples I've ever seen, especially in the Avanti world. If You look at the graph of sales on the BAT Site it's the top number by far ever sold. Notice they even installed the '63-64 round headlights. Nice touch.

Yes, if you're selling. --Dwight

I know, but the price and product are completely out of balance for me. I don't necessarily need new ones either; good used ones are nicer.