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will do. Thanks

Agreed…. Or auto graveyard!

I know that Chrysler products of the late seventies used the exact same switch… but I really can’t remember which model… I purchased one for my ‘63 Avanti at a Dodge dealership around 1990. Look at pics of Mopar units on line and see if you can match yours up.

I'm looking for a replacement turn signal switch that goes in the steering column of my 1963 Avanti. Specifically, I need one of the sliding tabs that makes an electrical connection when the turn signal lever is engaged. I understand they are no longer produced. Anyone have a lead on where I can find a new or used one? Thanks

I'm pretty sure it's a GM screw in cap. Any auto parts store should be able to supply a cap.

Pretty common problem on Avantis.

That is EXACTLY what I did on my ‘83 Avanti when I had had enough of the ‘computer command control’ system! I ordered a non computer controlled Q-Jet for a ‘78 Impala 350… and also a non computer controlled distributor for same.(distributor has vacuum dash pot) I made this conversion on my Avanti over 15 years ago… and have never looked back! And yes, a true dual exhaust system, ‘68 Avanti ll style, also went on!!

Hi All- As an aside whilst this thread is open... I have a 1981 EME Carb that I'd like to replace with an un-ECU controlled Quadrajet someday. Would somebody mind putting up what Carb Code numbers might be a good idea for substitution. BTW if I do go down this route , the AIR Injection system and Catalytic converter will also be gone too. Charcoal Canister will be staying , however. Thanks...

The "amp" is out, as is the radio. I don't think that the "amp" has anything to do with the radio but sits on it as a place to rest. I have checked continuity from a couple of the speaker connections with the connector to that "amp" and find none. Does anyone know what that little PCB is used for? I assume that after fixing or replacing the radio I will have to reattach it.

That carburetor looks WAY too good to even put on an engine!!! BEAUTIFUL!!

I have rebuilt quadrojet carburetors in the past (I'm too old now), and I sent one to Recarbco in Pittsburgh CA that came back looking like it just left the factory (and performed like it too). Recarbco is on Facebook (I am not). Not cheap, but excellent work/result.

Thanks ronmanfredi and MFG. I hope to get the carb number and order the kit later this week, then I can deal with this. I really appreciate the insight!

RQB3263/81/305 .... very interesting ...two more easy things to try ... (1) add 1 or 2 more carburetor base gaskets to act as insulators... (2) check ignition timing at idle should be about 6 or 7 degrees advanced .... check for vacuum leaks ....and yes remove and block off intake manifold head riser, this may require removal of intake manifold or there may be a block off kit available for your application.... i also drill 6 3/16holes thru my thermostat to allow coolant to pass at all times. good luck and keep in touch .....BILL in Florida where we dont need heat risers !!

J B Weld offers a higher intensity (stronger?) version that does a pretty good job.. but still iffy! Some techs have drilled out the plugs, tapped the holes, and then screwed in small brass plugs… I’ve never done this, so I really can’t offer insight on the level of difficulty.

That’s very unfortunate…. But thanks for posting this info.

I have a 64 Avanti, when these air ducts were first introduced. As someone informed me when I inquired on the forum, they provide little cooling to the transmission shifter in reality. I've driven mine around with new hoses and the air that exits the hose is just a wisp at best. As far as hose replacement, I found that the hose used for water supply to your washing machine was a perfect fit, it's plastic so won't deteriorate like the originals, they're plenty long enough and will need to be cut to length, they have the same ID and they're inexpensive. There are some foam gaskets that the hoses go through, 2138-71 that also deteriorate over time. I found some foam with a tacky backing on amazon that I cut out to replace them, again a synthetic that may last longer. However, all said and done, as I mentioned, at 65 mph, very little air blows through. I'm toying with the idea of making a small scoop for the air vent cowling in front of the window. Something simple out of sheet metal about 3/4" high, maybe it'll catch enough air flow to make these functional.

But, if you live in a relative cool climate, normally, even with alcohol in the fuel, you should not get boiling gas in the carburator. My Avanti did have a sporty cam and ran a bit hot. I did fit a thick gasket between intake and carburator, that solved the boiling. Also, check the timing. If off (to late if I remember well), the engine runs hotter then intended.

So…somehow I lost my gas cap. Any ideas on what replacement fits? Anybody have a spare they want to sell? TIA

In his book They Call Me Mister 500...Andy Granatelli spoke of the supercharger problem and they found that builders were not mic'ing the balls to make sure all were identical diameters...thus some were carrying too much of the load under use and failed. Could this be the issue raising its ugly head again?

Stefan.. This is an issue we almost all deal with.. Indeed the gas is boiling in the carburetor and can actually cause vapor lock. One big help is ilf you can find and use fuel with no alcohol... Makes a big difference... Beyond that you will have to block the cross over in the intake during hot weather.. Perhaps look at an electric pump with increased pressure which may also help some... Gasoline is a real problem anymore... I know some who put a quart of oil in a full tank of fuel which seems to help! I have the added issues of living at 9200 feet and no alcohol fuels.. Just hope for cool days.. Good luck with it.. Drive that beautiful car.. Ron Husak

Hi, I have the problem with my 1963 R2 the engine always after 30min or so. Now, looking for the reason I found out that the carburator gets very hot so that the gasoline is almost boiling in there. Does anyone have the same problem and/or have an recommendations what I can try to isolate it so that it does not get that hot?

You are right on the traction required. The traction actually comes from the steel balls giving a little bit at the interface with the race. Sort of like where the tire meets the ground. A friend tried precision ceramic drive balls in a blower thinking since they were lighter they wouldn’t have the tendency to spread the outer races from the centrifugal force at higher rpm. What happened is the balls easily slipped on the inner race. The ceramic balls did not flatten at all at the interface so could not get traction to transfer the energy. As for Valvoline synthetic trans fluid not working out in your blower I’m not sure what to tell you. I’ve had multiple failures with type f fluid and none with Mobile 1 synthetic. A friend down in Australia just wrote me the other day. He has less than 2000 miles on his rebuilt Paxton running type F fluid and it started growling so is now off the car and into the repair shop. Also, at one time Paxton Products used the engine oiling system to lubricate the blower. They discontinued that method but I think due to contaminating the engine oil when the inevitable blower failure occurred.

Planetary ball superchargers need a certain amount of friction to operate properly. If the fluid is too slick the planetary balls will skid rather than spin and roll and develop hot spots and fail.

Was the lower radiator hose changed? If it’s the old one the inner spring could have rusted away (or a new hose missing the spring)…and the hose is collapsing under vacuum and acting as a coolant blockage. Another possibility is a wrong or defective radiator cap. If your car has a closed system and a cap for an open system is there coolant will not return to the radiator. If the cap cannot hold pressure it will run hot. Also…was the system burped after being flushed and refilled? There be an air bubble blocking coolant flow.

I installed a rebuilt blower on my R2 and used Valvoline Synthetic Transmission Fliud. It has less than 2,000 miles on it and is now growling at me. So now I get to spend my money again. Lesson learned no synthetic! Type F only! Just thought I would pass that along. John C.