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Ain’t that the truth!!!!!
- Today
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Jim S started following Can the GM turbo400 transmission be removed without pulling the engine?
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My transmission in my 72 Avanti is leaking badly in the front. I see several drops of fluid coming out of the small hole at the botton of the bellhousing cover. I had two transmission mechanics tell me the front seals on those trannies seldom go out. My front seal and the front pump bushing was replaced just a few months ago. Yet it's leaking again badly! It was very difficult for this 70 year old to pull just the engine a few months ago and I really don't want to do it again. I want a shop to do it, so again my question is can they just drop the trannie clear of the X frame. Or do they have to pull the engine? Never have I had a more troublesome car than the two GM power train Avantis. If I can get this thing fixed and sold, I am going back to pure Studebaker!!
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I was provided with an Owner’s Guide with the purchase of 1692. I believe it is the original guide for 63R-2068 with body # 63-RQ-1232, since those numbers are written on page 4. I have a reproduction guide and would like to return this guide to the owner of 2068. Any assistance in locating the current owner would be appreciated.
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A Stude Avanti manual cable setup can replace your power trunk release with no problems…. Same trunk latch.
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Thoroughly enjoyed the Palm Springs meet! Great hotel, the Loewy tours were awesome and the seminar speakers were entertaining and informative. Thanks to the organizers for all the planning, work and heavy lifting behind the scenes. I had to leave early on Wednesday, so I hope the caravan and the photo shoot were equally outstanding. Although I agree that the AOAI and SDC meets are better combined, this "one off" in Palm Springs made perfect sense to those of us who wanted to see "the room where it happened".
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RQB3263/81/305 .... I just listed 3263 on Hemmings FOR SALE ... INCLUDES ALL THE DETAILS i CAN REMEMBER Check it out and give me a call 386-466-6434 in Florida .... thanks ..BILL
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"The panel may be stuck. Remove the screws from the switch to ensure they are not the problem, then try to remove it. You may need to pry the panel at the location of the two screws."
- Yesterday
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AvantiD changed their profile photo
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Working on a 63 started but not completed by someone else. I found the wire loom for the rear of the car laying above the fuel tank with no connector just cut wires. I found a connector under the dash withe the same wire colors. From the tank enclosure where did the wire loom exit and where would it have entered into the dash cavity to connect to the rest of the wire loom. My signal switch and horn wires exit the steering column with bullet connectors on each wire with no corresponding connectors for them to connect to. There is a unused 6 prong connector with similar but not exact color wires. was there a missing connector that mated these two together? Thanks for any information. Pictures of your wire looms would be appreciated
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I do kind of like the added visibility of two rear signal lights blinking instead of just one. The problem is, you can have all the visibility in the world and it won’t protect you from impaired drivers or the people staring at their phones. Safe driving! Mike
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I saw one setup of the four red lenses but the owner kept the original backup bulbs in place and wired them in to the brake lights. Running down the road had only the side lenses lit but all four lit when braking. More contrast from two to four bulbs. I thought it was an interesting take. I have the third light in the center on the back deck. The metallic lining behind the lenses inside the front and rear lamp holders had disintegrated. I bought some mirrors at a crafts store, a package of 1/2" and 1" squares as I recall, and (silicon) glued them on the backs, sides, tops and bottoms of all four lamp holders. That and the third light has me lit up pretty well. Good luck.
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Greetings from North Jersey. Am thinking of buying an Avanti.
Zedman replied to Chick5517's topic in Avanti Trivia
Just my two cents for Avanti II's up to 1985, mind... 🫠.. Avanti II's front seats went to high-backed seats in 1970 and departed from the original Studebaker design. I believe the later seats were Recaro's and by all accounts, a definite comfort and safety improvement. Catalytic converters were introduced in 1975 which resulted in a departure from a true dual exhaust system; this may or may not be of issue to you because I know some owners will remove these if they are allowed to. I have removed this Cat system and installed a dual. Studebaker Frames were made of thicker metal in the 'Hat Sections'- meant for V8's, but resorted to utilizing left over 6 cylinder Frames of thinner material from RQB2596 in 1977- probably not a big issue in reality, but you have a choice I suppose. Chevy engines have their advantages- although in 1981 they went to a computerised engine control system and as such have an electronically controlled Carburetor, Distributor, and lockup Torque convertor for the TH350C. All these can be eliminated or gotten around if you are allowed to do so where you live- manual lockup switches/kits are often utilised for instance. I have an 1981 model (RQB3269) and given the knowledge I've mentioned here, I may well have chosen an earlier model If I knew then what I know now. Later 1981 models from mine had Automatic Overdrive transmissions- a worthy advantage in my opinion and a definite improvement over the venerable old Borg Warners. Finally- I believe the build quality of Avanti II's as a whole were very good and they continued to evolve throughout their lineage. I have absolutely no qualms with the original Studeys, but reckon the II's are an inherently better build and a lot cheaper to buy, and a lot more to choose from. I suppose it depends on whether you want to have your car wear a 'Studebaker' script or can live without it. - Last week
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It's in good hands, 64Avanti. Appreciate You.
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AvantiD joined the community
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Sad to see it go.
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I met a couple from Canada at the AOAI meet who had a R2 that he converted the engine to a R3. He ran a 3.5" flex intake hose thru a hole he cut in the fender and then up to in front of the radiator and installed a standard cold air intake filter. He told me that he had a noticeable power increase and reduced carb problems in hot weather. So, I just removed my very nice stock chrome air cleaner and ordered some black PCV coated 3.5" flex hose to do the same thing except I'm going to try and keep the hose in the engine compartment until it gets to the headlight area and run it to the same location that he did. I've added a custom A/C to the car, so there are also refrigerant hoses going in that area as well. The car didn't come with a grille, so servicing the filter won't be a problem. If I decide to add one, then I'll make it as easy as possible to remove.
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Nice work !!
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This is how i did my combination reverse/ stop/turn signals. I kept the original clear lenses, and fabricated new sockets and bases to accept 1157 bulbs. I use led "switchback" bulbs; these have 2 circuits one red and one white. The original reverse circuit is connected to the white contact. and new circuits are created to connect right, and left brake ant turn signals. If you would prefer them to operate only for stop (no turn signal on trunk fixture) then you would create a circuit from the brake light switch, before the turn signal as you would for a third brake light. All lamps on RQA0348 have been changed to LED, so an electronic flasher is also installed. These bulbs are very bright and require very little amperage to run.
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I think you have a 1964 R2 air cleaner that is simply rotated wrong. I have a very nice proper '63 R2 complete air cleaner that is for sale or trade for your unit. Let me know. My email is ahpieper1952@gmail.com. Thanks, Andy
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I had my 1964 oem AM radio converted to 4 speaker am/fm with blu tooth and an add-on for Smart Phone adjustment controls. Gary Taymon Radio in Florida did the work and I'm very pleased. I had procured a new am/fm face lens and sent that to be installed also. It also has a cable for an external USB flash drive that you can download onto or make your personal play list and play through the radio. Looks completely stock. Expensive but still a deal. Pricing was at the time 2 years ago approximately $550.00. I could've cheaped out, but I went for all the available goodies. Hemmings Motor News lists at least a dozen radio companies in Services Offered in the front of the magazine.
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Looks great Mike!
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I did that with mine. Got the replacement lenses from Nostalgic. Also replaced bulbs with LEDs. Backup lights are way better. Mike
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I converted the backup lights on my ‘64 to stop lights using the later red lenses. It worked OK, certainly better than simply relying on the stock tail lights, but frankly not nearly as ‘seeable’ as a third brake light…. maybe that’s because the third brake light is higher, and more in line with the vision of the driver in the following car. PS… my ‘85 Avanti has the back up’s changed to stop lights (done at the Avanti factory).. really not as effective as a third stop light in rear window!
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You can convert the back up lights with red lenses and tie those wires into your existing lights. I'll be doing that with mine, plus changing out the bulb holder for a dual element bulb. I always change the bulbs to LED also since they are so much brighter. You will need to replace the turn signal flasher with one that has a Separate Ground wire attached to it. United Pacific makes one that I used on my 82 and worked perfect. Then you'll need to install some back up lights under the bumper. I've seen some 67 Mustang back up lights installed and they look good.
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Le panneau peut être coincé. Retirez les vis du commutateur pour vous assurer qu'elles ne sont pas le problème, puis essayez de le retirer. Vous devrez peut-être faire levier sur le panneau à l'endroit où se trouvent les 2 vis.
