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WayneC

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About WayneC

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    http://www.jagsnvettes.com
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Avanti's, Corvettes, Jaguars, computers, aircraft

Previous Fields

  • My Avanti
    1971

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  1. Beautiful car.... if it were mine, I'd leave it as is.
  2. The book "Avanti" by Thomas Bonsall says that all Avanti II's had the Avanti II emblems until Blake bought Avanti Motors and started building cars in1983 and dropped the "II". I owned '66, '69, and '71 Avanti's and all had "Avanti" emblems on front and rear, with several missing the "II" emblems (but mounting holes remained.
  3. I've owned older Corvettes and Avanti's and I believe the wiper arms are the same type of design. The wiper arm slides onto a splined post/shaft and has a spring "tang" that keeps the arm firmly attached to the post. My recollection (haven't done it in some time) is that the easiest way to remove & reposition the wiper arm is to use an inexpensive special tool shown below; ensure the arms are parked, fit the tool in place, note the arm position, carefully squeeze the tool handle and the wiper arm together with one hand to release the spring "tang" lock, keep the hand pressure on the tool and the arm and carefully jiggle/pull/guide the arm straight up & off the pivot shaft with fingers of your free hand, then rotate the arm to the park position you desire, and slide/re-seat the arm back down onto the splined pivot shaft. ...the technique is shown in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKvbtxGiI_w You can also use a flat blade screwdriver, but you will find it difficult to keep the screwdriver properly positioned beneath the edge of the slip-on wiper arm while simultaneously pulling the wiper arm straight up off the pivot (and there's danger that you may unintentionally mar the paint or damage the arm if things slip... protecting that area of the body with something like fender protectors is good insurance no matter what technique you use, and a patch of electrical tape atop the wiper arm at the post to protect it from scratches). The tool is available from AutoZone and probably most other local auto parts stores (worth the price, and works well if used carefully, despite the single bad review at Autozone), or buy it from Amazon for a buck or two less (search on "Corvette wiper arm removal tool"), or ask your gearhead friends if they have one you can borrow.
  4. Sounds like your master cylinder (M/C) has been leaking into the booster; brake fluid is incompatible with the booster diaphragm and will damage it. I use silicone brake fluid to avoid this sort of issue. If the M/C bore is not corroded you may be able to buy a kit to replace the seals, but chances are the bore is corroded and the cost of a new M/C is reasonable. Studebaker International lists the M/C at $96.50 + shipping & tax I think the closest replacement for the M/C is a Napa NMC-P1955 ($92 new, or $50 remanufactured + your old core) but you may have to use a pipe-thread adapter for the (rear brake) line coming off the front port. I did that on a 1980 Avanti. The booster can be rebuilt: http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/ I recommend them. They may also be able to rebuild your old Master cylinder or there are other rebuilders for master cylinders, for example: https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/ http://www.johnstuartpowerbrake.com/Master-Cylinders-Wheel-Cylinders.page
  5. Here are photos of the windshield washer fluid reservoir my friend bought at Nostalgic Motorcars
  6. Gene, thanks for reminding me, I need to update this thread. As I stated, I was asking the questions for a friend who recently purchased an '82 that was missing the reservoir. I had suggested some vendors for him to call and he was slow getting around to it.... he did find and purchase a reservoir from Dan Booth at Nostalgic Motorcars, for a fairly reasonable price considering the rarity. He said they do have more in stock. I have not personally seen his new reservoir, but he sounded pleased with it. I'll see if I can get photos to post here (he's not very tech-savvy, so I'm not sure he can send me photos).
  7. As the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words.....
  8. I can only answer generically, b/c I'm not sure which motor the 1983 Avanti used... Nostalgic Motorcars could probably answer that question: 248-349-4884 Here is an article on the original P/W setup, which was still used in my 1971 model; I know it was changed at some point https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Pwin/rkorb/rkrobpwinrep.html The original motors were used on the cars below and can sometimes be found on eBay, but they're usually pricey. 1960 Ford/Lincoln part # C0LF-14553-A, or Bosch # M 05810. Ford station wagon tailgate window motor C0LF-14553-B may also work. If the issue is a simple internal motor failure, a motor rebuilding service might be able to make repairs (many cities and large towns have electrical motor repair/rebuild shops) Here's one Avanti owner who innovated: https://studebaker-info.org/Avanti/Tech/PWIN/nollerpwinp0913.html I also sent you a private message. Good luck and please let us know what motor your car has (part numbers & pics, please, to add to our knowledge) and how you make out with repairs.
  9. Hi Wayne, 

    Happy new year!  I finally got to my fuel tank project and my tank appears to be in really good shape!  Appreciate the offer for a new tank but looks like I can use this one!  Re plumbed the vent and replacing the fuel sensor and insulating the rear panel before closing her back up!  Thanks for your input and  hope you have a great new year!

    Gary Johnson.  ..... in Georgia

     

    1. WayneC

      WayneC

      I'm not surprised. Since the tank is actually inside the car, it generally stays in decent shape.

      Happy New year to you, too.

  10. My only thought is that its not rocket science, the cable is apparently not fully seated/inserted at both ends (almost has to be the speedo end), or it is broken somewhere in between (unlikely since it worked before the cable was disconnected). It might be easiest to ask a shop to fit the cable from beneath, with the car on a lift, that is, remove the speedo cable at the tranny, push & turn the cable at that end until it seats into the speedometer, then re-insert/reconnect it at the transmission end.
  11. Yes, if the rear seals (O-rings) on the master cylinder piston leak, the fluid can be sucked into the booster and attack the bladder. If you are using silicone brake fluid, the booster bladder may not be damaged, but the master cylinder still needs to be repaired/replaced.
  12. I had posted this want ad for a friend that needed one. I thought he had already checked with the list of parts vendors I gave him, but it turns out he didn't, and he bought a reservoir at Nostalgic Motor Cars (the first place I had told him to contact).
  13. Did you try Nostalgic Motors? How about a want ad on this venue? I bought one from Nostalgic back in the mid 1980's. But it is not stainless steel. I think I paid in excess of $400 for it at the time, because they were rare even back then. It was meant for a later model (provisions for a filler pipe intended for unleaded fuel), the only type of tank available at the time, so it would probably require some filler-related alterations for use in an earlier Avanti. I haven't used it yet, and probably won't (I live in CA now), because I've long since sold the Avanti I thought might need it some day. Perhaps you'd like to make me an offer (offline). Or, there are "universal" fuel tanks available that could be researched for size and modified by a radiator repair shop to add/swap-in the external "plumbing" needed by the Avanti. For example: http://www.yogisinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=13671/category_id=2566/mode=prod/prd13671.htm
  14. Good information, thanks for posting. So, apparently you did not have to remove the headliner?
  15. Need the w/s wiper fluid reservoir that sits on the firewall shelf in front of the driver side of the dash
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