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  1. STUART! I know this thread is 2 years old but do you have updates on what that unit was and what it does? My 81 has the same unit, and I was in midst of a plan to change my mechanical speedo to an electric one when I discovered this thing in my way. I can't really do my conversion with that in the way. As a matter of fact it looks almost exactly like the Hall Effect unit I was going to install for my speedo. The manual for the Dana Cruise says something about a magnetic pickup on the driveshaft and nothing at all about speedo pickup, but maybe its an updated system and not in the manual? I've never actually used the cruise yet, but don't want to permanently disable it if I can help it. can I rewire this signal to use the same electric pulse as the speedo? Any advice here helpful. Ugh, always questions.
  2. My 81 has the AMC Javelin / Jaguar XJ6 style door mirrors. Both highly trashed. So I'm looking for replacements. Unfortunately the bolt holes for these mirrors are 2-5/8" apart, which seems abnormally spaced. Its also not a specification that anyone notes on aftermarket mirrors. They always just say "Fits 72 Camaro" or Fits "68-77 Cutlass" but thats not helpful for someone with an Avanti. (or an AMC Javelin for that matter). I frankly would rather not have to fill holes and drill new ones if there was any possible way to use the existing ones and get some decent chrome mirrors. I would even consider getting repro Javelins if I could get the passenger side with convex glass and a remote cable so it holds its position. anyway, if anyone knows more than i do about replacing door mirrors (i know zero), please chime in. I'm looking for chrome mirrors that are period style but also daily-driver functional and safe. And most important, that FIT THE HOLES.
  3. I used a seal for an airplane door I found here: https://www.brownaircraft.com/product-p/ba-4555.htm and because I thought it needed more depth, i put a 1/8" flat rubber strip behind it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WR1WG72/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I've never seen a good image of the exact profile of a new stock one, so I went off what my battered old one looked like to the best of my ability, and this sandwich looks like a good match. It seems to work well so far after a year. I literally scoured the entire country for an original seal and called dozens of dead ends, so I dont think originals are to be found anywhere.
  4. Can't say for certain. Fixing the skytop was the first thing on my list when I got the car, so not much to compare it to.
  5. The small green lens on my dash turn indicator has somehow fallen out and vanished. One of those mysterious disappearances. it had become unattached, and I disassembled it to try and reglue or reattach but it just fell and is gone. SO... is that ridiculous tiny part available? or should i replace both Left and Right ones with some other matching bit of glass or plastic. what do folks recommend? thanks for any tips.
  6. Well, I removed it as part of the entire moonroof repair process, so it came out AFTER removing the glass. once the glass is removed you slide the metal panel forward and then push up to bow it out of its tracks. Not hard. But you have to be willing to do the whole removal and replacement of the glass panel, which again isn't too hard, but it is a bit finicky to realign.
  7. UPDATE: I forgot about this posting, but what I wound up doing is gluing down a thin reflective insulation and it has worked out great. The panel is noticeably cooler to the touch on a sunny day. The whole moonroof works well now.
  8. UPDATE: While yes, I agree that running new wire would be great, thats just not a near term project. What I discovered is that the rear three-wire system is a fairly common thing called "Common Ground" wiring, which is still stereo. A new head unit or amp can use common ground wiring by first running the four wires into whats called a "Floating Ground Adapter", which then spits out the correct three wires. Its a $10 little doohickey that fits fine behind the radio and is available from Crutchfield or other vendors. Took just minutes to wire up and works like a charm. Heres the link to the unit itself if anyone else needs this: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142FGA/Scosche-FGA-Floating-Ground-Adapter.html
  9. Hi everyone. I'm in the process of installing one of those Custom Autosound 740 stereos to replace the old cassette stereo. I figured it would be pretty simple unplug harness, plug in new connections, done... and of course its not. The wiring behind the radio is hilarious, with multiple pigtails and dead ends and wires jumping multiple terminals in the harnesses. It took me a full day to just figure out what was going on. An entire set of wires leading away from one of terminals turned out to all be cut and dangling loose behind the glove box. Lord knows what was done here. In any event, after untangling the mess and removing the dead ends, it seems that I have 7 useful wires leaving the area, and only 3 reappear in the trunk, where one of them is split, so I'm guessing I have stereo up front and the rear speakers are wired in series/mono. My question is does anyone have a sense of where the speaker wires travel and how hard it might be run a fourth wire to get true stereo in the back? Thanks for any thoughts. another simple project becoming a rabbit hole, alas.
  10. Javier, I did a full gauge swap out on my '76 in '12.  AutoMeter had a very similar style of gauge, but with orange needles. They were an exact size match, Speedo even had a trip odometer. The only thing the gauges lacked was a high beam indicator on the speedo.

  11. Thanks! Yes, I figure its in that insulation blob after hunting everywhere else! Thanks all. I think I can actually get at that! I hope... 🙂
  12. OR... maybe the valve is in that black glob of insulation? Both of the two AC hoses disappear into this blob, so would it make sense that the valve is there? Maybe the copper tube is for something else involving the heater.
  13. Heres another image of this little panel. I guess I'm going to take that off and see whats behind it?
  14. So, I have a LOT more junk going in and and out of there than you do. I can't see anything that looks like an expansion valve. My guess is that the thin copper tube is the capillary tube that goes from the sensor to the valve, but the part that I can follow tucks behind the big hoses into this little brass panel. So is that the sensor side or the valve side? Its so hard to see whats going on! The other side snakes deeper toward the evaporator. Two pix are attached. Advice?
  15. One other query: To replace the expansion valve only, do I have to do the intense disassembly of everything, or did you have an easier access way to get at it? I know its in the console, but I'm really new at this car, and don't really know how to disassemble the console to get at it.
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