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  1. Yesterday
  2. I have the following items in need of a new home 2 sets of original seat rails. (both locking rails + 1 slider work fine - the other slider is slightly bent from the removal effort) Original Front Brake Calipers Driver Side Door mirror w/ mirror = minus remote guide wire. 1 Classic Enterprise Seat Anchor (w/ attaching hardware) I will post pictures of these items soon... More Parts to follow as I move forward wit RQB=3616's rework.
  3. I want to take it out for a spin but don't think that I am up to doing so sitting on a 3 gallon bucket .... I haven't had it on the road since I put new tires on it last fall.... It will be ready for 4 May and Iron Chariots Car Show.
  4. You're working hard on your Avanti and it's great to hear your progress- more power to you , man. 👍
  5. Additional Progress as the weekend comes to a close... After an awesome day at Church, a Great lunch, and a afternoon nap..... I was able to get up and go out to the shop and rework the front Seat Frames. The passenger side frame was a booger bear to strip down while the driver's side gave up the ghost at the sight of the wheel. Anyway they are done and hanging out to dry for the evening....
  6. Last week
  7. My 83 has the same setup as Zedman's above. I do have a new piece to replace the original with but I also have two more items that are a major question...... I will add them to the "extra parts" pile.
  8. When I cleaned up mine the material I removed seemed more like a flexible mastic tape material than a gasket. I had some metal building roof mastic tape laying around so I used that. It forms to fit, is sticky as hell, and never dries hard/brittle. It might not be original, but no one will ever see it and it won't leak!
  9. The entire interior of mine was "shot" so I removed it all before pulling the front and rear glass and painting the body (off the frame). Now it is time to start putting the new interior back in. I understand some parts of the interior should go in before the glass gets re-installed, and even before the new headliner material? Starting with the entire inside stripped, and all new boards, headliner, and vinyl what is the correct sequence for the install?
  10. From the ones I’ve seen they pry off.
  11. Thanks! Any suggestion on removing the original pivot pins from the seats? Do the cap ends pry off or screw off?
  12. Well it have been a BUSY few days and I have gotten some work completed on RQB-3616. She now has... 1 - I repaired driver side seat base attachment point by installing the Classic Enterprises Seat Anchor. I really wasn't a fan of the rivets as they were a tad to small in length - in my opinion. So I drilled them back out and replaced them with stainless screws and lock nuts. I was going to do the same for the passenger side but soon decided against it as the passenger side front seat sits atop the catalytic converter and there is a heat shield blocking access to the area where the rivets/screws would go... 2 - I replaced the battery cables and installed a new battery. 3 - I vacuumed and attacked the carpet with the wife's steam cleaner. It does look MUCH better and I was able to clean/de-mat some problematic areas. I can actually run my fingers through the deep pile. I will probably scrub it again before I put the seats back in. 4 - I looked at the power steering lines & control valve again as it looked like they were leaking again... I noticed that the valve could twist in the bracket???? I attacked the control valve again with cleaner in order to get all of the grime cleared and started the engine and had the wife turn the steering wheel a little while as I watched for any leaks.... Needless to say I didn't see any and the valve didn't twist or roll during the effort... 5 - I pulled the front wheels off as my son happened to grab hold of one and let me know that I had lots of movement / slop in them. Boy am I glad that he did this and that I followed up with it as the mounting bolts attaching the caliper bracket on the Turner Brake Conversion kit had started to back out allowing the caliper to start to wobble... I also took the time to check the front wheel bearings (repacked them as i thought I went a little to light on the grease last year) and repacked them and put a few more turns on the wheel nut as I seemed to have some play in the disc. 6 - I replaced the broken mirror in the glove box with a replacement mirror that I got from avantiparts.biz 7 - I put the rear sway bar back into the bushing on the driver side. 8 - I attacked two of the original wire rims (True Spoke) that are FILTHY and RUSTY w/ Bar Keeper's Friend and a drill attached brush. WOW do those wire spoke rims come back to life!!! I need to find a wheel that can fit between the wire spokes and the lip behind them along the outside edge. I purposely did not take any picture of this as they need more work. I am sure that I did a few more things but it is late and the old rememberer is calling for bed time...
  13. RoyG

    mrfeez

    My project is still moving forward... I haven't quit yet! Final paint is all on and I'm about 1/3 finished with the "cut and buff" process. All the suspension is back on the frame but the engine rebuild I was having done took longer than expected so the engine is not yet mounted on the frame, but that should happen very soon! The dash is out, completely stripped and on a stand in the shop getting ready for the new dash pad. Everything but the glove box hinges have been refinished and are waiting for the reassembly. Been having fun doing small projects in between all the sanding. Keep the faith we'll both get there eventually!
  14. Rather than experimenting, I contacted Turner Brakes and got everything I needed to convert the front discs to their system, and got the new dual master from them at the same time. Bob Munter redid the rears (new cylinders and shoes) while he was rebuilding the rear axle assembly to a TT 4.09 and replacing all the bearings. I had Dave Thibeault get the booster rebuilt and I'm installing all new brake lines. I didn't want to take any chances with the brakes, so I stayed with all trusted sources.
  15. Dan Booth at Nostalgic sells rebuild kits for these seats... and they aren't expensive.
  16. I bought a basket case in 2022 and have plans for it which do not include any factory drive-line parts. The odometer shows 85k miles and change. The biggest problem is, well, basket case. It was left outside since circa '98. The sunroof leaked which screwed most of the interior and it was buried to the rocker panels in plant life. I have a replacement frame, nobody would want the old one, trust me. All parts are still on the car but will be coming off as the weather starts to warm. Everything coming off this car should be cleaned and/or rebuilt at the minimum. I don't want the: engine(*) automatic transmission driveshaft radiator (*)The coolant entry on the intake manifold corroded so bad it turned to dust. My best guess is that happened over the decades of sitting. The above list is also not the complete list; more parts will become available as this year progresses. I don't want the engine crossmember in the replacement frame. I also don't want the solid rear axle or the wheels/tires. However, I need those for the time being. As far as prices, I'll just say everything is priced based on condition and it's all in pretty sorry shape. Ex: I should probably pay you to take the intake manifold off my hands but that makes less sense than me taking it to the metal scrapyard. I'm in central Maine. If the part(s) can fit inside my Focus sedan I'd travel within 175 miles as the crow flies to meet. That covers all New Hampshire and Vermont. It is most of Massachusetts, even as far as New Bedford. That distance reaches the northern part of Rhode Island as well as the northeast corner of Connecticut. Also, I'm frequently available if you want to come here and pick up parts.
  17. Although I already had regular Velcro for the upcoming job, yesterday instead, I ordered the heavy-duty outdoor version! That tip was on the SDC Forum, in response to the same question I asked there. As a side note, on the rest of the mechanism. I am just finishing up white lithium grease to all the wear spots, 3 new rollers, and using a hypodermic needle to get grease in all the pivots. Also, new motor gear. I can't believe all the pieces that the old one was in (plastic shards). This is all being done on an '85, yours may have a different motor, depending on the year of the Avanti. But the rest of the mechanism seems to have remained the same over the years.
  18. I meant "smart man" because he listened to his wife. Anyone may like either placement he wishes, but it is still a PITA to adjust mirrors on the fenders, and they are less effective on the fenders because they are effectively much smaller. Vision to the rear is poor on an Avanti and we need all the help we can get. I side with safety. --Dwight
  19. Worked perfectly. A lot of elbow grease (and nasty chemicals) needed to remove the old material from the track. After installing the new velcro, I had a little too much material on the sides. Single edged razorblade took care of the excess. No problems since replacing.
  20. Thanks, looks similar to the earlier ones. The improvements must be hidden.
  21. This is a factory replacement headliner installed in 1966.
  22. You can remove the power wire from the voltmeter and seal off the end. Then run a new power wire to the fuse box spade terminal that only becomes hot when the key is on.
  23. Nostalgic Motor Cars has re-chroming service and re-chromed bumpers available.
  24. Service bulletin F-1963-17 specifies improved headlining. Since neither of my 64s have original headlining, does any one have pictures or description of the improved version?
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