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Posted

When all else fails, what is an acceptable way to gain clearance between power steering ram and crankshaft pulley on both Studebaker & Chevrolet V8 powered Studebaker framed Avantis?

Posted
4 hours ago, Footer said:

Plasma cutter?

Ah ha!!….Well?…No!!!!!😧

Posted
9 hours ago, Footer said:

Plasma cutter?

Now that is FUNNY!!

Posted

I’ve seen Avanti frames with the front cross member dented in…so I’m saying it was acceptable to hammer the cross member in the right spot to make clearance.  Using a higher engine mount would cause interference with the hood so the alternative is to put a dent in the cross member.

Posted

I read somewhere where an owner replaced the end of the ram with a heim joint. Since I just lowered the engine in my 63, I'm sure I'm about to run into the same problem when I reinstall the bell crank and pivot.

Posted

I have a 63 with SBC, had to dimple oil pan to clear bell crank. Not much clearance even so, 4 or 5 mm

Posted
14 hours ago, Gunslinger said:

I’ve seen Avanti frames with the front cross member dented in…so I’m saying it was acceptable to hammer the cross member in the right spot to make clearance.  Using a higher engine mount would cause interference with the hood so the alternative is to put a dent in the cross member.

Not really looking to ‘massage’ the frame here… Something much simpler!

Posted
13 hours ago, ronmanfredi said:

I read somewhere where an owner replaced the end of the ram with a heim joint. Since I just lowered the engine in my 63, I'm sure I'm about to run into the same problem when I reinstall the bell crank and pivot.

That may work… however, as I mentioned to Gunslinger, this remedy is a bit easier. (no pricey parts to purchase)

Posted
12 hours ago, Guy said:

I have a 63 with SBC, had to dimple oil pan to clear bell crank. Not much clearance even so, 4 or 5 mm

Glad that worked for you… but not the answer here!

Posted

I have a 1969 Avanti II with 350 SBC. There is about 3/8-inch clearance between the bell crank/ arm and the oil pan. What is the condition of your motor mounts? is the rubber deteriorated allowing the engine to drop lower than it should? During restoration I replaced the mounts with ones for a 69 Corvette. Carefully examine the crossmember for any prior collision damage I saw one many years ago that bottomed out into a drainage culvert and dimpled the crossmember in an upward position.

 

Posted (edited)
22 hours ago, psdenno said:

Uncle.

OK…. The steering center bearing bracket and shaft assy can be lowered 1/8-1/4” into the front crossmember by removing the four bolts retaining it to the crossmember, and installing an equal number of flat washers at the four bolt locations  (between the bearing bracket and bottom of crossmember)… then reinstall & tighten the four bolts.

Doing this in effect lowers the bell crank arm gaining additional crank pulley clearance on the Studes, and pulley & oil pan clearance on the Chevys ….It’s important though, to be careful not to lower the center bearing bracket to the point where the bell crank arm interferes (or rubs) the front crossmember!

Edited by mfg
Spell.
Posted

Thanks for that tip, it is exactly what I needed. In response to Michael's question about mounts all is brand new. The oil pan is probably not chevy as it is chrome, likely chinese crap that may be the source of clearance problem.

Posted
7 hours ago, Guy said:

Thanks for that tip, it is exactly what I needed. In response to Michael's question about mounts all is brand new. The oil pan is probably not chevy as it is chrome, likely chinese crap that may be the source of clearance problem.

You’re welcome!…..A short money ‘fix’ !!

Posted
9 hours ago, mfg said:

OK…. The steering center bearing bracket and shaft assy can be lowered 1/8-1/4” into the front crossmember by removing the four bolts retaining it to the crossmember, and installing an equal number of flat washers at the four bolt locations  (between the bearing bracket and bottom of crossmember)… then reinstall & tighten the four bolts.

Doing this in effect lowers the bell crank arm gaining additional crank pulley clearance on the Studes, and pulley & oil pan clearance on the Chevys ….It’s important though, to be careful not to lower the center bearing bracket to the point where the bell crank arm interferes (or rubs) the front crossmember!

I did this same thing this morning to clear the 63R2 oil pan after I installed shorter motor mounts to lower the engine.  It wasn't to fix the ram interference with the pulley, it was to prevent the bell crank from rubbing the pan.  All it took was 1 standard thickness washer per bolt.

Posted
3 hours ago, ronmanfredi said:

I did this same thing this morning to clear the 63R2 oil pan after I installed shorter motor mounts to lower the engine.  It wasn't to fix the ram interference with the pulley, it was to prevent the bell crank from rubbing the pan.  All it took was 1 standard thickness washer per bolt.

Well done Ron!

(The sleek Avanti body had to be quite a  challenge for Studebaker engineers… Very little clearance between engine & chassis… and likewise very little clearance up top between engine & hood.)

Posted (edited)

This topic interested me, especially when MFG chimed in with the suggestion to shim the Center Bearing lower with washers. I referred to some of my reference photos... The whole idea needs some very fine tuning because in my case if I lower the Centre Bearing much at all, I will end up rubbing the Steering Ram reach Rod on the back end of the Front Crossmember. I only have about 1/4" clearance.   In my case I dare not lower anything because I would have to deform the Crossmember and that's just not gunna happen (My original Frame had a huge dent bashed into the Crossmember).  I'm already afraid of what the roadworthy inspection will say about that clearance (they're nuts here).   I have about 1/2" clearance between the Ram Tie Rod End and the bottom of the Engine Pulley- nuff, I reckon.   I have all new Engine Mountings BTW.  Interestingly, the Clearance under the Sump with my original SBC engine is good- possibly dealt with at the Avanti Factory, perhaps?

 

IMG_0074.JPG

Sun23Feb25 Cranshaft Pulley reinstalled. IMG_0532.JPG

Sun 23Feb25 Fuel Pump reinstalled- Stop Bolt hole needs to be covered yet IMG_0534.JPG

Edited by Zedman
Posted
54 minutes ago, Zedman said:

This topic interested me, especially when MFG chimed in with the suggestion to shim the Center Bearing lower with washers. I referred to some of my reference photos... The whole idea needs some very fine tuning because in my case if I lower the Centre Bearing much at all, I will end up rubbing the Steering Ram reach Rod on the back end of the Front Crossmember. I only have about 1/4" clearance.   In my case I dare not lower anything because I would have to deform the Crossmember and that's just not gunna happen (My original Frame had a huge dent bashed into the Crossmember).  I'm already afraid of what the roadworthy inspection will say about that clearance (they're nuts here).   I have about 1/2" clearance between the Ram Tie Rod End and the bottom of the Engine Pulley- nuff, I reckon.   I have all new Engine Mountings BTW.  Interestingly, the Clearance under the Sump with my original SBC engine is good- possibly dealt with at the Avanti Factory, perhaps?

 

IMG_0074.JPG

Sun23Feb25 Cranshaft Pulley reinstalled. IMG_0532.JPG

Sun 23Feb25 Fuel Pump reinstalled- Stop Bolt hole needs to be covered yet IMG_0534.JPG

Your clearances are excellent… A nice clean job…… WELL DONE!!

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