Mark L Posted September 9 Report Share Posted September 9 Dwight is correct, the spindles do not come in the kit. I also opted to buy the stainless braided flex lines. I think I figured out a way to reuse the original backing plates. It looks like I can possibly swap them side to side and trim them to match the new calipers. That will need to be a future project, however. I didn't come to this conclusion until after everything was assembled. I'll order the aviation grade bolts for the caliper brackets and do it all at the same time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted September 10 Author Report Share Posted September 10 (edited) Well, I just went on AvantiParts.biz, run by Robert Ziff. Brakes page 3. His Turner Brake setup shows the whole assembly including spindles and new suspension mounts. $695ish and more for vented/grooved disks. This is why I raised the question. ...... I gotta ask..On the Original Stock setup... It there a Proportioning Valve in the Brake line Circuit? After everything i replaced... Booster, Master, worked over the calipers, ground down the disks, new pads...I still have the pedal dropping slowly to the floor after a few seconds. The brakes are working otherwise., but this problem is throwing me for a loop. I've bled the system out 3 times,, there is no air. Edited September 10 by aardvark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted September 10 Report Share Posted September 10 (edited) 37 minutes ago, aardvark said: Well, I just went on AvantiParts.biz, run by Robert Ziff. Brakes page 3. His Turner Brake setup shows the whole assembly including spindles and new suspension mounts. $695ish and more for vented/grooved disks. This is why I raised the question. ...... I gotta ask..On the Original Stock setup... It there a Proportioning Valve in the Brake line Circuit? After everything i replaced... Booster, Master, worked over the calipers, ground down the disks, new pads...I still have the pedal dropping slowly to the floor after a few seconds. The brakes are working otherwise., but this problem is throwing me for a loop. I've bled the system out 3 times,, there is no air. Definitely no proportioning valve in the original Studebaker disc brake system. Studebaker engineers decided that non self energizing rear drum brakes were all the proportioning their disc brake system needed! Edited September 10 by mfg Added text Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted September 10 Report Share Posted September 10 (edited) 5 minutes ago, mfg said: Edited September 10 by mfg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted September 10 Author Report Share Posted September 10 Thanks MFG. Then I'm dumbfounded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfg Posted September 10 Report Share Posted September 10 2 minutes ago, aardvark said: Thanks MFG. Then I'm dumbfounded. If you didn’t say you replaced everything, I would have suspected a bad master cylimder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted September 10 Author Report Share Posted September 10 (edited) Well, that's what it's acting like. It came from Robert Ziff.(not like that matters, but) The old Master was totally inop , thus the new. Next suspicion would be fluid leaks or air in the lines.. I've been all over the car looking for a leak and bled the system out 3 times. I did check the pushrod in the booster and it's the proper 1.249 -1.25" . Even without a working Booster, this shouldn't happen as I see it. End game was to at least get the car on the road for a small number of miles w/ the Stock System.. Park it and convert to Turner and a dual Master setup. I might just need to go to step 2 and abandon the whole "Stock" setup. Edited September 10 by aardvark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverstude Posted September 10 Report Share Posted September 10 On 9/9/2024 at 2:09 PM, Mark L said: Dwight is correct, the spindles do not come in the kit. I also opted to buy the stainless braided flex lines. I think I figured out a way to reuse the original backing plates. It looks like I can possibly swap them side to side and trim them to match the new calipers. That will need to be a future project, however. I didn't come to this conclusion until after everything was assembled. I'll order the aviation grade bolts for the caliper brackets and do it all at the same time. You can use the original Dunlop system dust/rock guards with Turner brakes. It takes a little work and creativity Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted September 11 Author Report Share Posted September 11 (edited) Road test failed. I had virtually no braking. I got down the driveway and realized it before I even got on the road. Back in the Barn. All that's left to replace is the Calipers. Knowing that it makes no sense to go stock at $140 a caliper X 4ea. = $560. The Turner kit is $695ish.. Edited September 11 by aardvark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunslinger Posted September 11 Report Share Posted September 11 It’s correct that Studebaker used no proportioning valve…they used a distribution block…performed the same function. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aardvark Posted September 12 Author Report Share Posted September 12 Gun, thanks. That's one thing I haven't replaced. I can see when bleeding the system that the rears don't spew the same amount of fluid as the fronts, so it tells me the Proportioning Valve IS working The 70/30 balance (or whatever the number is) seems to be working. During a ''bleed'' there is much more fluid coming out of the fronts. The front calipers weren't rebuilt, All I did to em was to get the Pistons in them freed up (or so I thought). That said, I still suspect the Calipers are not moving freely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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