AIR CONDITIONING

[wildfelr]

RQB3263/305 ... BTW ... LAST WEEK I REPLACED THE NON-FUNCTIONING  ORGINAL A6 COMPRESSOR WITH THE LATEST AND GREATEST (SO I WAS TOLD) ALUMINUM A6 COMP WITH 8 PISTONS (?) DIRECT BOLT IN ...5 LBS LIGHTER ... AND WORKS VERY WELL SO FAR ....COMP/DRYER PURCHASED AND INSTALLED IN OCALA FLORIDA .... BILL

[ronmanfredi]

On 7/4/2024 at 10:54 AM, wildfelr said:

RQB3263/305 ... BTW ... LAST WEEK I REPLACED THE NON-FUNCTIONING  ORGINAL A6 COMPRESSOR WITH THE LATEST AND GREATEST (SO I WAS TOLD) ALUMINUM A6 COMP WITH 8 PISTONS (?) DIRECT BOLT IN ...5 LBS LIGHTER ... AND WORKS VERY WELL SO FAR ....COMP/DRYER PURCHASED AND INSTALLED IN OCALA FLORIDA .... BILL

I did the same about a year ago and it works great.  Painted it black before installing to attempt to keep the OEM look, as best as possible.

[pantera928]

Well, I replaced my compressor with the same one you guys used and also a parallel flow condenser and new receiver dryer.

Driving down the highway, the evaporator will get down to the high 30s F but it is still at best only marginal to keep the car comfortable on max fan speed.

Any ideas? Is if just poor insulation or too much glass or what? I tried to have the rear window tinted but they said the defroster was peeling away and the could not do it.

What have others done?

Thanks

[Mel]

Some years ago when I had the interior apart, I put 1/4" insulation (foil covered foam, sticky on one side) everywhere under the carpet, seats, firewall (as much as I could), behind the back seat, ...  It really seemed to help but, any way you look at it, these cars are warm inside.  Driving down the road, notice how much heat comes in through the gearshift slot, assuming yours is like the earlier II's.  Good luck.

[mfg]

In  a 1963 HRM road test of a (non A/C) Studebaker Avanti, the tester stated that he was quite comfortable in summertime  Los Angeles heat by keeping the side windows rolled up and leaving the vent & quarter windows open….

I guess MEN WERE MEN back then!!!!!!!!!

PS…. Or was it just that the earth was cooler ????

Edited July 30 by mfg
Added PS!

[ronmanfredi]

21 hours ago, pantera928 said:

Well, I replaced my compressor with the same one you guys used and also a parallel flow condenser and new receiver dryer.

Driving down the highway, the evaporator will get down to the high 30s F but it is still at best only marginal to keep the car comfortable on max fan speed.

Any ideas? Is if just poor insulation or too much glass or what? I tried to have the rear window tinted but they said the defroster was peeling away and the could not do it.

What have others done?

Thanks

Are you running the oem reostat resistor type fan switch or the current 3 speek switch?  On ours, I replaced the old reostat switch with the 3 speed switch, the same compressor as yours and it cools the car just fine (here is central Texas).  With the evap in the 30's, the only thing that needs to happen is to be sure the fan is running at correct speeds.  Also, check and be sure you don't have any leaks at the firewall and fresh air vents, letting hot outside air in.

 

[pantera928]

21 hours ago, ronmanfredi said:

Are you running the oem reostat resistor type fan switch or the current 3 speek switch?  On ours, I replaced the old reostat switch with the 3 speed switch, the same compressor as yours and it cools the car just fine (here is central Texas).  With the evap in the 30's, the only thing that needs to happen is to be sure the fan is running at correct speeds.  Also, check and be sure you don't have any leaks at the firewall and fresh air vents, letting hot outside air in.

no leaks and running the 3 speed switch. While the evaporator gets down to the high 30s, the air coming out of the vents is in a 50s I also have a fan blowing into my condenser at idle

 

[ronmanfredi]

Is hot water circulating in the heater core with the A/C on?

 

[Kodjo]

On 8/1/2024 at 8:38 PM, ronmanfredi said:

Is hot water circulating in the heater core with the A/C on?

 

If you don’t close the valve, hot water flows through the heater. Why ask?

[pantera928]

My heater is totally disconnected right now so no hot air/water. After driving down the highway today, the evaporator got almost to 32 degrees F but the air coming out was still in the low 50s

[ronmanfredi]

17 hours ago, pantera928 said:

My heater is totally disconnected right now so no hot air/water. After driving down the highway today, the evaporator got almost to 32 degrees F but the air coming out was still in the low 50s

That seems a little high.  Naturally the air passing through the core won't match the core temperature, but it should be in the mid-high 40's with an outside tempurature of the mid 80's.  Usually a 40 degree difference is considered good.  You should be checking the air tempurature on medium fan speed also, rpms at 2,000 if in the garage.

 

[pantera928]

12 hours ago, ronmanfredi said:

That seems a little high.  Naturally the air passing through the core won't match the core temperature, but it should be in the mid-high 40's with an outside tempurature of the mid 80's.  Usually a 40 degree difference is considered good.  You should be checking the air tempurature on medium fan speed also, rpms at 2,000 if in the garage.

 

Well, outside temps here are always in the 90s during the Summer months. 

[Mel]

The kick panel fresh air vents, on my '66 anyway, were made of a cellulose fiberboard composite (think pegboard in a workshop) edged with a rubber seal which had deteriorated badly and let in a lot of air.  My repair is laid out in issue #170, pg. 49, but the Reader's Digest version is I pulled the 'flapper' valves out and replaced the material with thick gauge aluminum and mounted them on the original swivel posts.  Trial and trimming to fit.  To pull the flapper toward you, Push down on the plastic where the swivel inserts on the mount and push up on the swivel and pull the bottom of the swivel toward you.  Much better fit and warm feet during the winter.  Good luck.