tanda62 Posted January 28 Report Posted January 28 Installed my electric fan after doing some fabrication work. The fan is a Spal 30102049 16" High Performance Fan and the brackets are from Vivid Racing (https://www.vividracing.com/-p-151580481.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAm4WsBhCiARIsAEJIEzURgwM9W4Sbnl3ywYQ-k7V1u-H5Hlbx_pc9h3pc2_MGnjRKAy9CcgUaApMVEALw_wcB). The brackets are aluminum and had to be cut, bent and welded to fit the upper part of the aluminum radiator. All the hardware to bolt this up is stainless steel and the nuts are all nylon locking so hopefully it will stay together! Took a lot of looking around but this Spal fan clears the engine. I also got the relay kit and will connect this to my Sniper so it can control the fan. I also plan on installing the stock horseshoe shroud. When the time comes she should be a cool running Avanti. Tom
ronmanfredi Posted January 28 Report Posted January 28 I added an electric fan to my 82 model stock radiator also. Had the radiator cleaned, it was in really good shape so I kept it. The fan is a 15" and includes a correctly designed shroud that covers 90% of the core. It has a variable speed controller that ramps up to maximum speed and turns on when the A/C compressor is running. Due to the amperage that the fan draws at top speed, I went ahead and replaced the 70 amp alternator with a 135 amp. Everything is working as it should !
mfg Posted January 28 Report Posted January 28 Looks to me to be two well thought out installs...Congrats men!!
tanda62 Posted January 28 Author Report Posted January 28 Nice install ronmanfredi! Thanks for the compliment mfg! Tom
wildfelr Posted January 29 Report Posted January 29 RQB3263/81/305 GOOD MORNING GIRLS Very nice install, i USED a Dural dual fan/ ( 2ea 12" fans) aluminum shroud on 3263 about 9 yrs ago and is still going strong I dont recall any special bracketry needed the shroud covers 100% of the original radiator and if either fan/relay fails the other one will bring me home just fine I also installed fan on indicator lights in the dash controlled by separate relays The fan temp switch is 185 degrees on and 175 off i ALSO HAVE A 16" PUSHER FAN ON THE FRONT OF THE RADIATOR WIRED THRU A RELAY AND POWERED THRU THE A/C clutch circuit this is required with the original A6 compressor I also went to a 140 amp alternator to keep up with all this stuff. That required a much larger primary wire over to the battery positive post.. how do you say "snowball" keep up the good work and by all means keep in touch .....BILL
Geoff Posted February 18 Report Posted February 18 I have some electric fan notes which I've taken throughout the years. All of you are done with your cooling setup though maybe this information could come in handy for other information seekers. 1300 - 1600 CFM range 4-cylinder 2000 CFM range 6-cylinder 2800 - 3000 CFM range 8-cylinder, smaller displacement 4500 CFM range 8-cylinder, larger displacement Generally, a pusher fan is 80% as efficient as a puller fan Aim for 70% of the radiator core to be covered by electric fans S-blade fans are typically quieter. Straight blade fans are more noisy With the radiator as a rectangle and the fan(s) as circles, the ol' π × r² comes in handy here. To achieve 70% coverage might require dual fans. I don't know where the line gets drawn between the 8-cylinders, I would guess circa 5L. Since the smaller displacement and the larger displacement has a gap there is room to manipulate. 2800 - 3000 could be for sub 5L. Between 5L & 7L could be 3000 - 4000 CFM. And 4500 CFM is warranted for ≥7L.
Kodjo Posted April 1 Report Posted April 1 On 1/28/2024 at 6:44 PM, tanda62 said: Installed my electric fan after doing some fabrication work. The fan is a Spal 30102049 16" High Performance Fan and the brackets are from Vivid Racing (https://www.vividracing.com/-p-151580481.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAm4WsBhCiARIsAEJIEzURgwM9W4Sbnl3ywYQ-k7V1u-H5Hlbx_pc9h3pc2_MGnjRKAy9CcgUaApMVEALw_wcB). The brackets are aluminum and had to be cut, bent and welded to fit the upper part of the aluminum radiator. All the hardware to bolt this up is stainless steel and the nuts are all nylon locking so hopefully it will stay together! Took a lot of looking around but this Spal fan clears the engine. I also got the relay kit and will connect this to my Sniper so it can control the fan. I also plan on installing the stock horseshoe shroud. When the time comes she should be a cool running Avanti. Tom And, is she running cool? I have fitted a 2000CFM fan also. It keeps cool at low speeds and stop and go traffic. On the highway she gets warm. In my car, I made an aluminium shroud, you did not. Would this make an difference in (higher) speed?
Gunslinger Posted April 2 Report Posted April 2 A major cause of Avanti heat at speed is air turbulence…the hot air is trapped in the engine bay and not getting out. An air deflector mounted under the radiator saddle can help immensely…it directs air up into the radiator and away from the engine bay. There are also other potential causes for temperatures running high at speed…incorrect engine timing…a weak lower radiator hose…sludge buildup in the engine block cooling passages…wrong or bad radiator cap…maybe others.
tanda62 Posted April 2 Author Report Posted April 2 My car is not on the road yet so not sure about the cooling. Right now I am in the middle of putting In a new wiring harness one wire at a time. Not my favorite job.
Kodjo Posted April 2 Report Posted April 2 (edited) 18 hours ago, Gunslinger said: There are also other potential causes for temperatures running high at speed…incorrect engine timing…a weak lower radiator hose…sludge buildup in the engine block cooling passages…wrong or bad radiator cap…maybe others. I think there is no dirt in the engine, nor in the radiator. Last winter I rebuild the engine. The hose is good, cap is new. Timing might be a bit early, would that hurt? Edited April 2 by Kodjo
Kodjo Posted April 2 Report Posted April 2 18 hours ago, Gunslinger said: A major cause of Avanti heat at speed is air turbulence…the hot air is trapped in the engine bay and not getting out. An air deflector mounted under the radiator saddle can help immensely…it directs air up into the radiator and away from the engine bay. That could be. I think the dam works a bit different; it creates a lower pressure behind it and therefor pulls air true the radiator. Anyway, I think these deflectors are ugly...
Gunslinger Posted April 2 Report Posted April 2 Timing advanced too far creates detonation which is harmful plus increases heat. How much depends on how much advance is there…also dependent on gasoline octane and quality. Lower octane fuel requires less timing advance. The Prestolite distributor in the Avanti had a reputation for wearing advance bushings…especially if not kept lubricated. The ‘70 Avanti I had I installed an air deflector as opposed to an air dam. While at low speed or sitting it was of no value at speed it easily kept the temperature 10 degrees or more less than it ran without the deflector…that was with an electric fan as well.
Kodjo Posted April 5 Report Posted April 5 I replaced the mechanical point by electronic version, so no wear. The timing should be about right; 12dg base and 34 max at 3000 RPM. I have an '69 Avanti but no deflector installed...I think. I know an air dam, but what is a deflector?
Gunslinger Posted April 5 Report Posted April 5 The terms are often used interchangeably but there is a difference…at least in this application. An air dam redirects oncoming air around the car…elimination turbulence under the car thus reducing drag. A deflector redirects air into the radiator where it would otherwise go under the car creating drag. For an Avanti the deflector has some air dam effect as well. Im not at my home computer or I could post a photo of the air deflector. It really does look like it was part of the car’s design. The air deflector was from a Saturn.
Kodjo Posted April 6 Report Posted April 6 (edited) Oke, well, today I reversed back to the mechanical fan setup. Works like a charm except being loud and the belts start to scream around 3000RPM. Before, there was a torque limiting clutch, now a viscous drive. This viscous drive is putting to much strain on the belts. I can't find a torque limiting drive that fits my car... The 2000 CFM fan was not enough for my car...I could fit a bigger one but then I would also need a bigger alternator. This route cost a lot of money, time and effort. I'll take the noise of the mechanical fan... Edited April 6 by Kodjo
Geoff Posted May 3 Report Posted May 3 More details of the Saturn piece referenced by Gunslinger are here: https://studebaker-info.org/Tech/Avcool/airdam.html Installation instructions and part numbers are on that website. The prices won't be the same, that's for sure, and one may find it difficult tracking down said chin spoiler. The 2009 update to the above site says Mr. Morris fabricated his own out of aluminum. That might be the best comparable solution at this time.
Kodjo Posted May 3 Report Posted May 3 Well, I've fitted a fan clutch "heavy duty". That works perfectly: No screaming belts and a constant 185 dgF on the gauge. For the interested: Hayden 2747 did the trick on af chevy 350 from '69.
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