Avanti83
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Posts posted by Avanti83
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Well said GS
I'll add that after taking two Avanti's apart, there is a tremendous difference in build quality between my 74 and 83 vehicles. The 83 was assembled as you would expect a $30K vehicle in the 80's. Everything was well routed and clean, the parts fit well and were quality pieces in general. The 74, and I've said this many times on both forums, reminds me of a kit car assembled by a by folks with a limited concept of quality. And it's not because it went through several modifications after assembly because I purchased from the original owners son and his father had bought it directly from the factory in 74.
As far as the paint issues, I'll bet the issues will just continue as it ages but let me make a suggestion. Find the best auto detailer in your area and ask their advice. The orange peel can be eliminated but get their opinion on the salvaging the other problems. If it's relatively minor, they can possibly do some magic. If it's adhesion issues, then the costs soar rapidly if you want to drive with a pristine paint job.
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I agree it's a nice car but it has a couple of negatives - 350 SBC in place of the Stude engine takes it's value away from the folks that like original. Secondly, clean up the engine compartment and reshoot it.
You also need a couple of shots of the underside as rust is a major concern with these cars.
As far as $30K, one couldn't reproduce it for that money but that generally doesn't matter with these cars.
It might also be worth getting it detailed or spend a couple of hours spiffing it up inside and out. In the price range you are suggesting, shine and presentation are necessary.
Now, I'll agree with Ed to a point. Put it on Ebay with a low starting bid and a reserve of $30K if that is what you want and see what happens. Forecasting prices on modified 63/64's is a crap shoot at best.
But good luck it is a beautiful example of a car I admire greatly.
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Interesting comments. When I rebuilt the front suspension on my 83 I added KYB shocks to all four corners. I did need to widen the bottom pin on the front shocks but overall I'm very happy with the ride quality and handling of the old girl. You'll generally need to make minor changes to the shocks unless you order directly from an Avanti supplier and you may even need to modify them.
The ones you show sure look like overkill to me unless you are towing something.
The parts interchange from the SDC showing shocks etc. - https://northstarstudebakers.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/interchange.pdf
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7 minutes ago, M&M said:
I am trying to but the 2019 Calandar and also would like to buy the Avanti Magazine for a year. How can I do that?
Thank you and Happy New Year,
Mel Moeller
Join the AOAI and the magazine is included in the membership. Order the calendar at the same time you subscribe.
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Good Idea, Did the same thing on my 2004R. Just switch it on when traveling on the highway. If they don't want to futz with the computer wiring, the plug is on the drivers side of the trans that needs the connection IIRC. The wiring diagram is easily available on the WWW.
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1 hour ago, studegary said:
I believe that you are referring to the temperature sending unit for the computer. I believe that the OP is looking to change the temperature sending unit for the temperature gauge.
Stuart B said he found the unit under the exhaust manifold where they usually screwed into the head. That unit will come out the way I described, I can't speak to what it connects to but I usually use that location for my temp sender when I ashcan all the pollution equipment.
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I agree with Gunslinger - AMC as you've since determined. I like body color so I used Camaro mirrors on my 74.
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If it's where they are usually, front left side, a deep socket (about 3'4" or so) and a short extension should work. It'll be messy if you haven't drained anything but not bad. Check the socket size of the replacement.
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While we are on the subject of gas odor, check under the car and gas tank area looking for the short rubber line that connects the tank to the steel fuel lines. You may find it quite brittle or swollen. Even if it's not, contemplate replacing it with a short section of EFI quality gas hose. If it leaks or fails, the gas tank will empty wherever the car is setting creating a major fire hazard.
It can be changed by draining the tank at the "TEE" on the frame below the passengers side door which can be a challenge if the plug hasn't been removed before. Also be aware that the tank will not completely drain by this method and you could get up to a quart of gas out when you remove the hose under the tank.
If you plan to remove the tank, it will only come out if you remove the 90 deg fitting on the tank bottom. Replace the 90 with a 1/4" pipe plug to keep from getting a gas bath also.
Replace any hoses with EFI quality ones, they cost a bit more but they can handle today's fuels.
Other sources of leaks around the tank are the gas filler connection to the tank, 2" hose and several hoses connecting the vent tubing system above the gas tank.
As an aside - When I drained the tanks on my 83, I added a shutoff valve on the rear side of the tee to let me close the gas line if I ever wanted to work on the lines from the tee to the engine. I have an EFI fuel pump and filter just in front of the TEE on it. On the 74, the shut off is under the tank as I added an electric fuel pump and filter there.
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AS I said in the last post, I replaced the engine and eliminated all the parts of the system. It's basically a separate system but a bit of knowledge of what not necessary and what needs to be plugged is suggested.
I'm not sure how to help without knowing your comfort level under the hood. It's also important to know how the car currently runs. If it runs well the it might be best to just leave it but if it's not running well a new carb and distributor could help as that would eliminate them as a cause.
The problem with poor running could also be a worn cam, bad timing chain, bad sensors and chasing these leads can get frustrating and pricey.
I would recommend if your's is running well, drive it. If it's not - contemplate the cost of a rebuilt engine to replace the old bullet which is not great technology at best.
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When I replaced the 305 in my 83 with a 355 roller cam engine I eliminated the entire system including the wiring, carb, distributor, ECM and sensors.. What I found interesting was the wiring harness was totally separate from all the other wiring in the Avanti. It was strung all over but as I removed it the rest of the harnesses stayed in place.
I'm not recommending you remove yours unless you really just want the mess gone but it worked form me. Be aware, I'm driven to get crap like that out of my cars and have been doing it for many years so be advised.
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Welcome
The most expensive repairs on an Avanti's are paint, frame and hog troughs. If you are looking for a driver heed the advice above and keep looking until you find what you are looking for.
In the price range you a quoting there will be a number of SBC powered ones that will show up in your search if you stay patient.
Unless you do your own mechanical work find the best one you can afford.
Lastly, the 80-83 years are generally more comfortable than the earlier versions due to better seat options. Even the standard seats in my 83 are quite good (for an Avanti) while the 74 not so much. It's my personal opinion based on limited data but the 80's cars are just a better vehicle that the earlier ones but that was also reflected in the price as my 83 stickered at over $30K.
The Studebaker Avanti's are usually higher in price for a comparable car to the SBC powered ones and mechanical help with the engines and trans are more difficult to find. On the other hand, they are the original Avanti's.
Once you go beyond 83, the style changes to painted bumpers and in a couple of years GM frames and running gear. I personally like the chrome bumpered pre-84 models but the later models offer may advantages and if you find them attractive/interesting then they are another option.
Now on the cars you mentioned. Both 70's models are way overpriced particularily with rust.
The 81 may be a better deal but unless you know the rust issues or lack there of it's a gamble particularity needing paint which will add several thousand dollars to the price at a minimum. Honestly, the 305's are not my idea of excitement but good rebuilt replacements are not expensive nor difficult to install.
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I don't know if it's camera distortion or a bent rim/axle but the wheel does look distorted. As suggested above, up on jack stands and turn both wheels. You can do it by hand if the car's in neutral and look for run out. I'm also in favor of running it in gear unless you are nervous. If you see differences, put to other rear wheel on the axle in question and see if it's still an issue. That will tell you if it's the wheel or axle assembly issue as stated above. I personally don't think one bad wheel stud would cause this as that would leave four others to provide clamping force.
Good luck.
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Pull the distributor and radiator. The engine and trans together are considerably longer than the engine compartment.
This is my writeup on installing a 383 SBC and T56 trans in my 74 Avanti. Picture it in reverse for pulling the engine with an engine hoist. Overhead hoist would be better but many of us have them.
BTW - IIRC the 700R4 is about the same length as the T56.
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?71670-Avanti-ingests-SBC-T56-combo
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Other than being sure it will drop free of the x-member, be careful about the distributor hitting the firewall. Take a close look, you may want to pull it. Also the fan may want to hit the shroud. Leave the hood up also.
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I would think about any 30 amp 12v circuit breaker would work but I'm a bit surprised it happens on high and low beams. The easiest fix is to get a generic 30 amp circuit breaker and try it. If it works, fine but my guess is you may be tracking down a short in your headlight circuit.
Most auto stores should have a generic 30 amp circuit breaker available.
Good luck
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A quick look at Google indicated a compressor sized for your Avanti draws 50 amps. I'm not sure what start up amps are but a 60 amp alternator doesn't seem like enough output to me. The cost of a unit sized for your Avanti would run about $1500 for the compressor and controller.
You can also try Googling for Studebaker R2 with A/C as I know there are at least a couple out in the wild. Here's a start from Bob Johnstones website .
http://www.studebaker-info.org/PDF/AIR/r2air.html
If these don't light your fire, think about Norm's idea of electric power steering.
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2 hours ago, mfg said:
The necessity of spending the "big bucks" to change out that 305 should be determined after driving the car at least a couple months...In my opinion!...Ed
We agree, I'm only adding that by looking at hot oil pressure and a couple of tests that can be done with equipment on loan from a local auto store, the OP can avoid potentially destroying a usable engine. I won't drop 10% of the cost of a "new" engine into a unknown black hole. Once an engine let's loose, nothing inside goes into anything I replace it with.
Agreeing to disagree on that viewpoint.
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The question was not how far an SBC will run when well cared for but more what to look for in starting and driving one that has sat for 17 years. If it had the old oil and antifreeze in it for that long, nothing good happens to the bearings and other parts exposed internally.
There's nothing wrong with starting and driving it, as is, but my point remains, as soon as you start throwing parts at it you are investing money in an expensive gamble unless you look it over internally.
It may run 300,000 miles or shuck a rod next month just don't waste money on parts until you know what you are dealing with.
Run a compression and a leakdown test on it and see if oil pressure is 15 or so at idle and 40 or so on the road. Good values on compression and leakdown testing and decent oil pressure are some indication of decent health inside. Then you can make better decisions on moving forward.
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The best way is to dial indicate the lift with a dial indicator. https://www.amazon.com/All-Industrial-Tool-Supply-TR72020/dp/B002YPHT76
But any engine that has a number of miles and sat for 17 years is going to need some parts. You want to replace the timing assembly and it will need seals. Compression is probably down some and a few rings might be stuck . The bearings have sat in the same contaminated oil for 17 years so they have probably been affected by moisture and acid. Head gaskets are hard to trust after setting this long in the coolant muck most folks leave in unused engines.
I wouldn't go very far with the engine before I tore it apart and looked inside. Just that with seals, timing gears and misc is probably $500 -$1000.
My advice is unless you are going for 400 point authenticity, look it over inside and unless it is close to perfect - put in a crate 350 for $2-2500. The 305 was not Chebbies finest hour during that era and a good 350 will make it much more fun to drive.
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Apparently 88 Avanti's were advertised prior to spell check. Another fine edition.
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Mines setting in a box somewhere but my bet is seat belt light.
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The best choice is Nostalgic Motors in Wixom Michigan. Dan Booth is the owner and can be contacted by phone only. His number is on the web. I replaced my front and rear and he walked me through the installation on my 74 this summer.
Whether you will be doing it or having it done, it is not a trivial install and Dan knows all the tricks and has the proper installation kit also.
This is my write up on the SDC forum. http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?101554-74-Avanti-Front-and-Rear-Windscreen-Installed
While it may not be obvious the rubber is held to the glass by many pieces of clear Gorilla tape that was peeled off after installation.
What to look for/at when considering an 81?
in 1965-83 Avanti
Posted
Nothing wrong with leaving it but it could be a source rattles. Here's the info on it if you need it.
http://www.studebaker-info.org/Tech/lampman_moonroof.html