Skip Lackie

Agree with aardvark. It's not rowdy, it's childish. Whatever you guys are pissing in each other's shoes about, it's not related to brakes, or Avantis, or Studebakers, or even cars. It's wasting my (and everyone else's) time.

Me too. This discussion provoked me to check out the AOAI home page, probably for the first time in years. Had forgotten how much was available there.

As noted above, your car was probably originally equipped with DOT 5, which many of us prefer for cars that are not driven regularly. But anything could have been added over the past 50-60 years. The easiest way to tell what's in the car now is to suck a little out of the master cylinder with a turkey baster and put in into a clear glass jar. Add a similar amount of DOT 3 (it's cheap and available everywhere) and shake it up. If the car now has DOT 3 or 4 in it, the two fluids will mix completely. If the car has DOT 5, the mixture will turn milky and eventually separate into two layers. If you want to change to a different type, you really should flush the system completely with a good solvent (alcohol or acetone) and replace all rubber components, like hoses and M/C and wheel cylinder cups. Replacing hoses is always a good idea in any case. Good luck..

You have already properly diagnosed the problem -- just haven't found it. There is a bad ground somewhere, probably in the headlight circuit.

I've owned both Studebakers and an Avanti II for a long time, and I do not remember any animosity between Stude nuts and Avanti nuts. I do despair at the current feuding between SDC management and AOAI over attendance at intl meets. It seems both childish and inexcusable.

Block casting number 3970010 is a pretty common bock, used from 69 to 79 as 302, 307 and 350 configurations. The engine number beginning with MK (and no suffix) doesn't match any Chevy engine numbering system I have heard of. Might be a (Mexican?) replacement engine.

Did you use the HD adhesive, 3M number 8090? 3M makes two or three different similar products, but only the #8090 is designed to hold headliners and under hood pads. Also, the instructions must be followed exactly.

The part numbers I provided above are Studebaker part numbers; they will work for SI and other Stude vendors, but nowhere else. Automotive body fasteners are often used only for automotive applications, so will probably not be available in small quantities anywhere except from Auveco. They do not sell retail, one must go through a dealer. However, you can drill down on their catalog to ID their part numbers. For example, here is their body bolt section. Bolts (auveco.com)

I do not have a post-Altman Avanti, but the original 63-64 Avanti shop manual includes instructions for emergency opening of the hood on the earlier models. Copies are available from many vendors. Studebaker Vendors Web Site Parts Directory

Good job. That's how a lot of us learned it.

I checked my stash of hardware, but don't have any of those. You might have better luck finding them with the part numbers. The hood hinge bolts are 1905x18. The door hinge bolts are 1926x627 and 1926x628, The washers are 3142x3. Did you try someone who carries Au-Ve-Co products? COMPLETE AUVECO CATALOG

Both Maryland and DC demand/issue titles, so the car must have had one at one time. Presumably, Senator Bayh received enough paperwork to register it and get a title, too. The Stude Natl Museum can provide you with a production order that might indicate that the car was set aside as a special gift for a VIP. Not sure that would help much though. Registering a vehicle without a title always depends on the laws of the particular state. They all have different procedures.

This will probably not answer your question, but: about 20-30 years ago I bought a 60 Lark that obviously had had a seriously leaking power steering system. The previous owner had removed the PS belt but left the system intact. As a result, steering was sloppy, presumably due to the lack of hydraulic pressure in the control valve and ram. There was at least a little fluid left in the system, and that may have provided enough lubrication. I drove it that way for a little while until I rebuilt the control valve and ram. They both worked satisfactorily after that.

If it's the original, it's 12 volts, only a few amps. The fuse amperage will tell you the max allowed.

From memory: on my 74 it's on the inner left fender, near the master cylinder.

Agree with Leo. Somewhere in my fading memory is the supposed fact that the factory put them on the right side, so the shop manual said to do it the same way.

The illustration shows the proper order of assembly. The backing plate is illustrated in the brake section 11. It goes on last. The gasket is a sort of a absorbent paper-like material so it doesn't add to any adjustments. I haven't checked, but I'm sure they're available from most of the vendors.

3M makes an adhesive for this application and headliners. Super Trim Adhesive, product 8090. Any auto parts store can get it.

Agree with Pantera. The one that fits my 74 best is the 26R, which is a group 26 with the posts reversed.