brad
-
Posts
1,092 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by brad
-
-
True, if it breaks you're screwed
-
You answered your own question. When the ram hoses are reversed it will do exactly as you describe.
-
Thanks, Ed. I forgot to add that the rear spare tire well was blacked out also as seen from behind.
-
Are you using the same hoses? Remember that the suction hose, (lower one) has to have a spring inside to keep it from collapsing. Is it the correct water pump? some are reverse rotation for newer serpentine belt setups.
-
Aurora it is! i just replaced one, and the paint was $4000 a Gallon. Good thing it only took 2 ounces.
-
What (outside)door handle did the AVX prototypes use?
-
3, they had composition type head gaskets
-
Show me next time you do it. i have never been able to do it on MANY that I have tried.
-
True, the body won't fit if the engine and supercharger are installed in the frame.
The supercharger will hit the passenger inner fender.
-
No, it;s longer, and mounts to the exhaust manifold instead of the bell housing.
-
Retarded ignition is more likely the culprit
-
21 gallons as compared to 18. dedicated vent, not through the cap. Mounted inside the car instead of under the frame. Bottom exit fuel feed to pump line. Shape (of course).
-
The ones I have worked on do have them. but not on the bottom.
-
If you are going to St. Louis, look me up. I have an Avanti II clutch linkage setup. I will be vending there, also, my shop is just down the street from the meet headquarters.
-
I replaced one, and can get you the number of the top.....from EZ-ON Auto tops in Florida. The rubber is available from Steele Rubber Products..
I am away from home this week
-
Only if the lamp is "square"....if you are talking about round sealed beams with square bezels, then they are not interchangeable, as the headlight is not centered in the bezel.
-
If they are rusty, it will take longer!
-
No, it's closer to the 57 airbox. You have to remove the R3 Emblem to adjust the idle screws. The early 57s also had plugs to remove to adjust idle.
-
It's on the expansion valve on the evaporator under the dash. The passenger side panel has to be removed to see it. There may be sticky tar-cork insulating wrap around the area that keeps the connections from sweating.
-
Regal? no it was Delux. The perforated type. (Or do I have that backwards?) nI can never remember what they called it, but it was the non pleated type.
-
Mallory sold out earlier this year, and is no longer making the Studebaker distributors for Dave Thibeault.
Dave does have a Mallory Unilite conversion for a Prestolite distributor, that he is now selling.
I never was impressed with the Unilite setup, from way back. the grease and oil in the engine compartment can coat the lens of the optics in the pickup assembly, rendering them useless.
You can dunk the Chrysler hall effect pickup in oil, and it would not be effected.
I like to use the Big Block Chrysler distributor guts with the hall effect pickup, triggering a MSD capacitive box. You get the benefits of stable dwell, and timing, and multiple firing of the plugs below 3000 rpm. (Above 3000 rpm you still get 1 big spark to the plugs). You can then run a much better "E" core coil that saturates much faster than stock, and can deliver 60,000 volts to the plugs.
Some may say "If it ain't broke don't fix it", but these are the same people that say Studebaker was the "high point" of automotive technology. Believe it or not technology HAS improved in 60 years
-
Herb Shriner. It was Florida
-
Yes, the frame bolts do have to come out. They are 11/16" nuts, and 5/8 bolt heads. The outer end bolts that go through the fiberglass into the bumper also need to be removed. It helps to have something or someone holding up the bumper so it won't drop and scratch the paint. Also loosen the two side bracket adjusting bolts so when you remove the other bolts, it can be removed.
When you go to put things back together put the frame bolts in, THEN put the side bolts in FINGER TIGHT. Then tighten the side arm adjusting bolts. The reason being is you don't want to draw the bumper bracket along with the fiberglass behind it out to the bumper. By tightening it first, the bumper is drawn into the bracket without any outwards pressure on the fiberglass. The steel bracket takes the force. Of course you will have to add the rubber shims between the bumper and the body.
-
part of it is round, the part inside the 1/4 panel down to the hog trough
'Natural' R3!
in Avanti Trivia
Posted · Edited by brad
Yes, just about every part on an R3 was red! The oil pan breather tube, the expansion tank block, cylinder heads, pulleys, oil pan, bell housing, supercharger and brackets. Except for the manifolds,chrome, and power steering pump, fuel pump, and starter most everything was red
(of course, the pressure box was unpainted also).